grimmysnr

Even after using this adapter I was still having problems with the sub as it seemed like either the Amp was going into protection, I was losing input, the phase kept flipping, or I had a lose ground. It was really weird and happened often at lower volumes but would still rarely happen at mid or higher. Then it seemed like it would do it based on if I was making a left or right turn so I thought for sure that I had a lose connection somewhere. Checked everything multiple times and couldn't find anything wrong. So just last week I actually changed inputs from the speaker wires that was recommended in the kicker install to the right rear speakers inputs. I believe the kicker install has you hook up to the right forward dash speaker. Since changing the input to my right rear, everything has changed. No cut out, bass is deep and filling, and it doesnt take much volume to get you where you want to be. I did have one instance where I turned it up and I think my amp went into overload protection because the sub dropped. But when this happened I still had the gains turned up from the other input so I am certain I actually did overload the amp. So while I can't be 100% on your discrepancy, I can confirm that the right rear speaker input works and that while the volume from the stock speaker seems low, the output voltage is still there. The volume out of the rears seem like because the speakers themselves just suck. I bet if you put some better stuff in the doors it wouldn't sound so bad. As a speaker input level to your amp, that input will work just fine. And the wires are under the passenger door sill so they are a bit easier to get to.

I was able to get a photo of where I tapped into a switched source. Follow the blue wire. Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk

Just to update all of you on my subwoofer saga. I had my setup working for a little while but no matter what I did I could not get the bass to volume ratio match down. It was either too much or too little. Too tingy or high pitched with the filter level or gain was too low and half volume is good but a notch over half the sub sounded like crap. Recently I started having an issue that I can only explain as intermittent open short protection where my sub would cut out at lower volumes. It would sometimes cut out around half volume. I thought I had some loose connections so I opened everythjng up and ohmed wires and checked voltage and found no issues. I tried playing with the gain, changing the stereo to mono wire config, upped the bass in the radio, the filter, and damn near anything else. I just could not get my sub to respond correctly. Well I did some more research and many threads suggested line out converters but I didn't feel like spending $60+ on such a simple setup. I came across the Kicker KISLOC 2-channel speaker level to rca line out converters. Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OInVDbV8P7B85 It runs in line with your speaker level input and converts it to rca. It has changed everything. This little thing works like a champ. I only hooked up one channel on it and ran the associated rca for that channel since I have a 10 inch dual 4-ohm sub setup. The problem I was having, according to research, was that the truck or my amp was detecting a open circuit and going into protect mode. It has something to do with the resistance on the speaker wire. This little adapter puts that resistance on the truck side and output the right frequency and voltage on the amp side. If you are having trouble with sound quality, cut outs, and don't want to spend time and money on a normal line out setup then get this thing. It just works. Also one of these days I will stop being lazy and take a picture of where I tapped in my remote switch for my amp in the passenger compartment fuse box. Let me know if you have questions. Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk

There is a fuse in the passenger fuse box that has a blade tap for this exact thing. Look in the fuse box on the front passenger side and there will be one in there for standby power. It is open already, no need to splice or jam something in anywhere. Just put a blade on your blue remote wire and plug it in. Works fine with auto stop start and everything. This is where I am tapped in at.

Yep! Those are the ones. I couldn't get the connector out without doing exactly what you seem to have done to your hands. So I gave up and left the connector installed and then tapped in place. Solid blue is positive and the Brown/Blue stripe is negative.

Did you try a single resistor per tailiight or per bulb? I watched a video about swapping bulbs for a 2018 Silverado and they had to use two resistors per side. Basically one resistor per bulb. I believe the video was from Headlight Revolution where they said that since each tailight has two bulbs that a resistor was needed for each LED bulb making two per side.

Hey folks, I see a lot of people have been able to successfully swap the front turn signals. I did the same thing to my truck. I have the incandescent rear bulbs and from what little research I have seen, swapping the rear with just bulbs still hyper flash unlike the fronts. This leads me to believe that the rear will need resistors. I read a few posts saying that even after resistors there is still hyperflashing. Has anybody had any luck with swapping out the rear bulbs?

If you look at the picture above, the audio module is the better place to tap these wires.

Sorry it took me a while to respond. I did not get notified. Unfortunately, I am unable to tell exactly which one, but the good news is that any set of wires that is twisted together is generally a speaker wire set. I cannot say which colors are which. There may be other wires that are spiral, but to be sure look at the wires coming off the audio module in the above picture. It is actually best that you tap from the front speakers because the overall volume level is much higher than the rear. I attempted to tap the rear speakers the same way you are looking to do and ended up going with the wires off the audio module. If you adjust your fade to the rear speakers and balance left or right I think you will be disappointed with their output at the same volume level set on on the radio. Once I get back to my truck I might be able to look under there and see if I can find out which wires are which. Either way, I recommend you tap off the front speakers. I will see what I can find later.

I am attempting to isolate this noise coming from my 2015 Yukon XL with the 5.3L. I made a video of it and posted it on Youtube. Hopefully it will embed here. It seems to be coming from the right side of the motor and it occurs at idle, but more frequently between 1,500 and 2,000 RPM. I was going to call the dealer and make an appointment, but I was curious if any of you have heard this noise before. It is not the DI noise. If the video embeds, it sounds like a spark arcing and it start faint. If you listen closely, once you heard it you can't unhear it. It is intermittent and it seems to occur if I hold it in that RPM range, but if I vary the throttle, upon decel of the RPM is when it occurs most often.

The difference is light intensity and lumen output. With more light comes more power and with more power there is more heat. Those 55w ballasts are known to melt plastic halogen housings and as a courtesy to other drivers 55w output is just a bit too much. Even 35w will eventually deteriorate the reflection immediately around the bulb. You should be fine for a while though. Just be courteous and make sure to aim your lights a little lower since you will be blinding everybody on the road. Also stay within 4300k to 5500k. Anything above 5000k starts getting into the blue light spectrum and then lumen output becomes regressive. The higher kelvin rating is actually a lower light output. Goodluck.

The good news is that LED technology is getting pretty good these days. LED lumen output is getting close to 55w HID output and bulb design mimics the light dispersion in halogen reflector housings. In fact, LEDs is probably the recommended solution now for a plug and play into a halogen reflector. If you end up retrofitting projector housings, HIDs still reign supreme. With that being said, I have some experience trying to retrofit some HIDs into recent GM vehicles and one thing about GM stays true; they don't like to change what isn't broke. Their headlights, especially halogen headlights, use Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) that sends micropulses of voltage power to halogen headlamps to deter modification by users and to control the brighteness of halogen/LED Daytime Running Lights. Instead of a constant 12 power source, the vehicle modulated and pulses a 12v power source to save power, increase component longevity, and finite control. What does this mean for you? To retrofit HID or LED bulbs into stock GM reflector housings, you will likely need a relay harness with a capacitor wired in series with the harness to smooth out the pulses on the input side of the harness. Basically the vehicle plugs into the input side of the relay harness, but you have to wire a capacitor inbetween. If you don't the relay will cycle on and off at nearly 60-80 hertz which will practically destroy the internals of the relay. The capacitor will deliver a smooth and solid 12v signal to turn on the relay. The power side of the relay will wire to the battery and then two more sets of wires will go out to the lights. This is kind of like an "anti-flicker" module but just one step further. Anti-flicker wont be enough because the capacitor has to be on the input side. Flicker modules typically go on the sides where the lights are. So while it may seem easy, there is just a few more steps needed to make it all work. So if you are comfortable with running a few wires then you can make it all work. There aren't many plug and play solutions just yet. Head over to The Retrofit Source or Headlight Revolution websites to price out what you need. Those folks can help you out.

I just checked my truck and you are right. The front ambers are not on with the headlights. That makes that part easier I guess. The difficult part now is to find something that works well for the back. Your timing must have been impeccable to capture your signal flash.

Is there a noticeable brightness between running lights and signal? I have purchased lights in the past and it was almost imperceptible when I had my signal on versus the lights being on in running mode. Care to post a short video or something at night to show the difference?

I have Westin Pro Traxx 4" Oval Nerf Bars in black for steps and ProZ LoRoll Premium Roll-Up Tonneau Cover. I don't have pictures of the truck yet because the weather has been so crappy lately. Both were on sale at Autoanything and fit and finish are great. So far I like them. One of these days if we get some decent weather I will take a picture and everything including all the mods that I have done and post them.