brainpause

Then the lights are behind the bikes, completely useless. Looking for an idea that's out of the box that I just haven't thought of. Larry

I'm looking for ideas. I use a Propride 3P hitch for my travel trailer, which won't allow me to use a bike rack double stack on the hitch like I have done with previous hitch setups. So I got a front receiver hitch for the truck, and I just use my Swagman 3 bike rack on it. However, last year (2 years ago?), we got caught in heavy rain at night, with the bikes mounted on the front, and I could hardly see because my headlights were mostly blocked. Fortunately, we were on a divided 4 lane highway, and I was able to pull over until it was safe to drive. But I got to thinking....what if I was on a curvy country road, or something else less than ideal? I want to put lights on the front, but I'm not sure what I want to do. I don't really want to mount lights on the hood or cab; I am not sure lights mounted below or on the front bumper would help the situation. Truck is 21 years old, but I love it and want to keep it, but also don't want to sink a ton of money, unless it is a top shelf idea. So what other ideas are there?

I've been searching for a Topper for my bed. Measurements are all over the place even when somebody says it is made for my model truck. So it's been a little bit frustrating. Especially since I'm a bit picky about what I want and many things that are available are quite a long drive away. I'm wanting something secure with no windows or at the very least expanded metal mesh over the windows. So here are the measurements of my truck: 81.5" outside length incl tailgate 68" outside of side rails rear 70.5" outside of side rails front 19.5" bedrail to bed floor at tailgate 78" inside of bed, front to tailgate I have found something that I really like but is 3 hours away and here are the measurements that are given: 80 inches long 72 inches wide in the front and 70 in the back. I think what I'm asking is how close do they need to match? A lot of things that are for sale people don't have any idea what it came off of. Help! Larry

Found it. Enter 5 digit factory code. Press 1/2 for 1 second. 8/9 Will flaw to show unit is in programming mode. Within 5 seconds of each digit, enter new 5-digit code. Door will unlock-lock-unlock to show programming is successful.

Mine is installed by the dealer but how the heck do I program it to a different number? I can't find anything on the internet about it

Thanks for all the help and ideas. it helped me know that I wasn't going crazy or doing something completely stupid.

THIS. This is the tool I should have had all along. It's better suited for these snap rings that have no holes. This tool has flat tips that are knurled to help grab the beveled edge. Once I had this tool in hand, it only took three or four attempts and I got this bearing out. I had literally already given up and was putting the transfer case back together. Since I had large chunks together it was easy to take large chunks back out to get to this bearing and change it out. I'm very happy I didn't leave the job undone. Lesson learned. Get the right tools. I just didn't know I didn't have the right tools.

I gave up. I fabricated my own tool by grinding some flat spots on an 11 inch needlenose pliers. It came close to expanding the spring clip enough. But even with the spring clip completely disappearing into the molding of the case, it was not enough expansion to remove the bearing. It's almost like the clip was 1/16 of an inch too short. I believe if it was that much longer I could expand it enough. Although it did not complete the job, the tool I fabricated worked better than the spring clip pliers. Larry Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I've expanded the ring probably 250 times, and it doesn't help. When I go back to it, I'm going to try to push the bearing one way or the other and see if that helps make room. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Yes I've tried that. There's just not enough room. I think you may be onto something about moving the bearing inward or outward to give all the space to one side. I think it may be sitting right in the middle. I've given up for the day and have gone home. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

You may be right. Because what you've described so far I don't think physically can be done where it currently sits. I've tried simply compressing the ring inward to see if it will compress at all. It won't. And there is no space at all to pry the ring upwards, but I can push it down a little bit. I'm thinking about just leaving the darn thing in there because it has no play and it sounds solid. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. And the idea. If I understand you correctly, you had to basically destroy the clip to get it out. Correct?

Another picture

I'm overhauling my np263xhd transfer case. I have the thing in a million pieces on my bench.One of the c-clips has me stumped. It is on the input shaft bearing and it is mostly covered by molded casing. I will try to attach some pictures.But basically, the c-clip is covered except for 2 small sections at the 12 and 6 position. I've tried everything I know with spring clip pliers. But there's just not enough room to get the clip out or get the bearing out.What the heck do I do and how do I get this thing out?

True enough, but it is more of a work area thing. I'll basically be doing it in a gravel parking lot. I'm still considering your suggestion, though.