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dukbludvl

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  1. I just bought a used 2003 Yukon 2wd 5.3L with 150k miles on it about a month ago from the only other owner who got it new in 2003 and had it for 17 years. This is my third Yukon from the 2000-2006 body style -- first was a brand new 2000 that I put nearly 400k miles on, second was a 2005 that I bought with 190k miles and I put 100k more on it before the trans went and I decided not to fix it. Anyway, previous owner installed a K&N cold air intake years ago, and the K&N filter is quite dirty. I've had some rough idle issues, and the other day it stalled out 3 or 4 times while engine was warm and I was going from Park to Reverse trying to back out of a spot. I'm guessing the throttle body is also probably dirty/sticking. My old 2000 Yukon did that for the first time in 2002 and it freaked me out. That 2000 Yukon had drive by cable, so I just moved the butterfly plate in the TB and cleaned all around it good and it was good fro the next 100k miles or more. This 2003 is drive by wire, so I think I need to find a buddy to get on the accelerator pedal to open up the butterfly plate while I clean around it -- is that right? Anyway, I don't like the idea of the cold air intake. So, my plan is also to reinstall the stock air filter box and get rid of the cold air intake. I'll clean up the TB when I do that hopefully this weekend. Now, for a perhaps related issue -- or maybe it's a totally separate issue. I had a CEL code on last week before I replaced the plugs/wires with new Delcos, and I had it read and it came back as P0420, Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). The CEL stayed on for a day, then went off for a day -- did that most of last week. Now, after the plugs/wires change, the CEL has been on steady, so I just had it read again at AutoZone tonight. It's showing the following: P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Not sure why the same P0101 code is on there twice. Anyway, the AutoZone print out say "ASE certified Master Technicians have seen this issue on your type of vehicle and the most like solution is: Repair Engine Control Module (ECM) Wiring. Anybody have any insights into what might be going on with this? Do you think I have an air quality issue that might be fixed by going back to the stock air box and intake? I've also got a fairly new MAF sensor I can pull off that old 2005 Yukon (the one with the bad trans) and put in here, so I might do that just to see if it clears up these codes. Please help if you have any ideas about what's going on with this. Thanks!
  2. I didn't check the gaps with a tool, but I eyeballed them and they all looked the same coming out of the box. I'm starting to think I don't really have any issues with the plugs/wires, and that maybe this is more of an air/fuel mixture or air delivery issue. I drove it about 30 miles tonight with a few stops/starts and had no issues with idle or stalling. In fact, I think maybe the idle is better now than it was before the plug/wire change. It's steady at 650, whereas before it was usually around 500 but a little bouncy and sometimes dipped below 500. I just got this Yukon a month ago from the only other owner who got it new in 2003 and had it for 17 years. He installed a K&N cold air intake years ago, and the K&N filter is quite dirty. So, there's that, plus I think maybe my rough idle and stalling could have been due to a sticking throttle body. My old 2000 Yukon did that for the first time in 2002 and it freaked me out. That 2000 Yukon had drive by cable, so I just moved the butterfly plate in the TB and cleaned all around it good and it was good fro the next 100k miles or more. This 2003 is drive by wire, so I think I need to find a buddy to get on the accelerator pedal to open up the butterfly plate while I clean around it -- is that right? My plan is also to reinstall the stock air filter box and get rid of the cold air intake. I'll clean up the TB when I do that hopefully this weekend. Now, for a perhaps related issue -- or maybe it's a totally separate issue. I had a CEL code on last week before I did the plugs/wires, and I had it read and it came back as P0420, Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). The CEL stayed on for a day, then went off for a day -- did that most of last week. Now, after the plugs/wires change, the CEL has been on steady, so I just had it read again at AutoZone tonight. It's showing the following: P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Not sure why the same P0101 code is on there twice. Anyway, the AutoZone print out say "ASE certified Master Technicians have seen this issue on your type of vehicle and the most like solution is: Repair Engine Control Module (ECM) Wiring. Anybody have any insights into what might be going on with this?
  3. So, I'm a moron. It's been years since I've changed plugs and wires. This week, I installed new Delco platinum plugs and new Delco wires on my 2003 GMC Yukon 5.3L 2wd with Delphi coils, about 150k on the motor. Everything went well with getting the old plugs out and new plugs in. Then, I went ahead and installed the new ignition wires and mindlessly glopped a bunch of dielectric grease on BOTH ends of the ignition wires before putting them on, thinking it would help with conduction and not act as an insulator, as it obviously does. I should have known right away that I effed that up because I figured I'd fire up the engine and she'd be smooth and happy. But, it was actually a little hard to start then it wanted to stall. I drove it around some -- ran in to work and back to the house, so maybe 30 miles round trip, with a couple stops in the middle. It idled rough, but otherwise ran fine most of the time -- no ticks, knocks, bangs, and seemingly no misfires, but maybe I missed some misfires? It did stall on me a few times when I started it and tried to put it in reverse to get out of a parking space. Anyway -- need your advice. How do I undo this mix-up? My plan is this: A. Remove these wires with all the grease in them and put on a totally new set of wires with only a thin coating of grease applied with a Q-tip to the boot only -- and not to the conductive metal/wire ends inside the boot. B. Wipe the grease off the plug terminals that the boots were installed over as best I can with a paper towel. C. Take a Q-tip and try to wipe the grease off the inside of the coil boots/connectors, and wipe the outsides of the coils with paper towels to try to get all the grease off as best I can. My questions are these: 1. Any other suggestions about how to get the grease off the plugs so it won't interfere with the conductivity of the plugs? Is wiping it off sufficient, or should I replace my new plugs with another set of new plugs? 2. Have I permanently damaged the Delphi coils by essentially cramming grease up them from pushing the wires on? Do I need to replace my coils? 3. Anything else you all recommend? Thanks in advance for your help on this. I just want to get my Yukon back running right again. The stalls and rough idle had me freaked out for a bit. Jon
  4. I just bought a used (new to me) 2003 GMC Yukon. It's my third Yukon from the 00-06 generation. This one happens to have dual auto climate control. I've found that the AC only blows cold when the recirc button is on -- and when it's running like that, the little snowflake icon is not lit up on the HVAC screen. If I just turn on the AC (no recirc), the snowflake icon lights up, but the air that blows out is lukewarm -- not hot, just not cold either. Anyone have any idea what might be going on here?
  5. I had an issue doing this with my 2000 yukon 5.3 2wd with the 4L60E. I dropped the pan and changed the filter and topped off with new fluid every 40-50k miles. At 161k miles I did that and it started slipping bad. Next day I could get out of first gear.
  6. Hi All - I miss my old 2000 Yukon, so I'm looking for a "new" used Yukon/Tahoe from the 2000-2006 model years. Anything in particular I should look out for? Also, I've got my eye on one, but I have a few questions for you guys about it: 1. Oil - it's a one-owner vehicle, and he always changed his own oil and used synthetic (Mobil 1, then later switched to Castrol or Valvoline, I think he said), so all that is good. But, he said he's always used 10W-40, when he can find it, and if not then 10W-30). I know these engines call for 5W-30, which is what I always used in my old 2000. What are the potential issues with him using a heavier oil, and should I stick with that same heavier oil or go back to using 5W-30 if I end up buying this vehicle? It has about 160k miles on it. The current owner lives in the deep south, so it's a hotter climate. I'll be bringing it back up to the Northern VA area, where it gets colder in the winter. 2. Tire Size - this one came with 265/70 R17s. He eventually put on aftermarket 20" wheels, and has run them for the last 5-10k miles. What concerns, if any, should I have about this? More wear/tear on the drivetrain, suspension, steering components? I have an old set of stock 17s with a nearly new set of Michelins on them. If I buy this vehicle, should I switch back to the stock wheels, or is it ok to keep running it with his aftermarket 20s? 3. Low Miles in Recent Years - current owner says he has only run it about weekly and only about 2-3k miles per year for the last 5 years. Any concerns there with under use? Seals and stuff dry out, that sorta thing? 4. K&N Cold Air Intake - current owner installed a K&N cold air intake. Any concerns there? If i buy it, should I go back to the stock box and paper filter? Thanks in advance for any advice you all can give.
  7. Yeah, sefiroxx, I see what you're getting at. I'm inclined to find another 03-06 Yukon/Tahoe with 100-150k miles on it. For the 8-10k i'll cost me, I can probably get 100-150k miles. That's 7 or 8 cents a mile. I'm not a huge fan of the 07-13 Tahoes. I have a 2012. Been solid mechanically, just really boring looking and super uncomfortable seats. Cheap plastics inside too. I like the looks of the newer ones a lot, but they're not as comfortable as the 00-06s. I'm 6'7" and close to 300 pounds. The way they've designed the new ones, the B pillar really hits me in the left shoulder. I'd drive a 00-06 forever if I could.
  8. Hi All, I need your advice on what I should do about needed transmission repair on my 2005 Yukon 2wd 5.3L with 290k miles. Original motor. Motor generally runs fine - I do get the occasional lifter knock and my oil pressure drops to 0 sometimes (or at least the gauge says it does) when the motor is cold and I stop at a light. As soon as I get back on the gas the pressure goes back up. I also have a bit of coolant leaking into the oil - likely head gasket... but, I had these same exact issues on my old 2000 Yukon and ran it up to 400k miles. So, my transmission lost the 2/4 band, and I've also now got a code for Solenoid A stuck on. I either need a transmission rebuild, where a local shop will pull apart my transmission and replace the bad parts and all the seals and rings ad what not -- that will run me $1800-$2000. Or, I can put in a remanufactured transmission. Looking at maybe 4k for that? Curious to know what people think I should do. Rebuilt, remanufactured, or just sell it off for cheap. It has high mileage and the other nagging engine issues. Also has a brand new set of Michelins. I don't think I want to invest in a remanufactured transmission on a vehicle with this many miles. Could do a rebuild, but I've read about people having issues with those. Your advice would be appreciated.
  9. My 2000 Yukon 2wd 5.3L got to 392k miles before I gave up on it when the radiator went. The engine was having issues with a cracked head gasket anyway, and oil pressure issues, but it still ran fine. I loved that thing and wish I could get another one today. I replaced the trans at 162k miles with a reman and the reman ran fine for the 200k+ miles I had it. If anyone in the Southeast has a 00-06 Hoe/Yuk that you're looking to sell, let me know.
  10. Yesterday I got a CEL, and the code was for Shift Solenoid A stuck on. Do you think I could just have a bad solenoid, or is this more likely a symptom of a larger issue?
  11. It is the original trans. My tires are 265/70 R17. I believe the rear end is 3.42. If i'm at low rpm in the higher gear and I floor it, the rpms jump way up but I don't get the acceleration I'd expect. Based on this, do you still think it's the trans? I guess I could try to replace the TPS and see if that does the trick. A new one is $98 at AutoZone. Do I need to do some sort of idle relearn procedure or otherwise calibrate the new TPS?
  12. Hello - I need your help. My 2005 Yukon 2wd 5.3L gas motor (not flex fuel) with 290k miles just started giving me problems. I can't figure out if it's merely a bad throttle position sensor (TPS) or if the transmission is going. Here are the symptoms: 1. For the last month or so, I've noticed that while I'm breaking it seems like the vehicle is simultaneously getting gas because it lurches forward a bit like it's trying to accelerate. Now, this could be because my size 15 foot someone tapped the gas pedal while I was breaking, but I'm not 100% sure. 2. I've seen fuel economy dip from 17mpg to low 15s. Some of this could be just variations in driving patterns, I'm not sure. 3. The main thing is that a few days ago I accelerated hard from a stop, and when I did that the vehicle really took off like it never had before almost -- threw my head back a little even. After that incident, I noticed that it no longer shifted right. It'll start out in first and the tach will go up to 2,000 or 2,500, and the only way to get it to shift to second is to let off the gas for a few seconds, and the tach will come down and it'll shift. I don't think it's shifting up to 3rd at all, and there definitely doesn't seem to be any overdrive. I can get it up to speeds of 55-60, presumably still in 2nd (?) with the tach up around 2500rpms at those speeds. Can't seem to get it any higher. Question is -- is this a bad TPS or is my transmission shot? Initially, I thought probably transmission, but then I started reading about the TPS and related symptoms, and it sounds like it could be that. Also, if anyone has any info on steps to change the TPS, please let me know. Manual pages or whatever. I believe the TPS I want to change (if it's even that) is on the left side of the throttle body, right? I know there's another sensor on the actual accelerator pedal itself, but that's no the one I need to deal with, right? Thanks in advance for any help.
  13. Until a month ago I had a 2000 Yukon that I bought new and put 391k miles on. Towards the end, the oil pump started failing. I changed the oil myself religiously every 3k miles, sometimes as often as once a month depending on how much I was driving. I loved that vehicle and it probably would've kept going if I'd kept it. After considering a new one, I couldn't justify spending 70k-75k for a vehicle I paid less that half that for just 16 years ago. I ended up with a used 2012 Tahoe with 75k miles and I love it. Except for the AFM. I can really notice the difference sometimes. I'm using Mobil 1 full synthetic and changing it every 5k. Also get an oil test done yearly just to see how the engine is wearing. If anyone has a 2000 or so Yukon in decent shape that they want to part with, PM me.
  14. Is it possible that my fuel pressure regulator is bad even though i'm not seeing any gas when i pull the vacuum line there? My 2000 yukon with 330k miles recently started having a long crank issue. It sometimes takes 1-2 seconds, sometimes longer before it starts. Previously, it has always started really quickly (much faster compared to my wife's 2007 accord, which I always think cranks a long time when I start it by comparison to my yukon). I recently changed plugs, wires, engine air filter, fuel filter and cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor. None of that has helped. I'm on the second fuel pump (it now has about 120k miles on it in about 4 years), so maybe it's the pump going again? But, I'm wondering if it might be the fuel pressure regulator, even though I'm not seeing gas in the line. I'd rather replace the FPR for $80 than the fuel pump for $600. What do you guys think - could it be the FPR? It idles, accelerates and runs like normal once started.
  15. Is it possible that my fuel pressure regulator is bad even though i'm not seeing any gas when i pull the vacuum line there? My 2000 yukon with 330k miles recently started having a long crank issue. It sometimes takes 1-2 seconds, sometimes longer before it starts. Previously, it has always started really quickly (much faster compared to my wife's 2007 accord, which I always think cranks a long time when I start it by comparison to my yukon). I recently changed plugs, wires, engine air filter, fuel filter and cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor. None of that has helped. I'm on the second fuel pump (it now has about 120k miles on it in about 4 years), so maybe it's the pump going again? But, I'm wondering if it might be the fuel pressure regulator, even though I'm not seeing gas in the line. I'd rather replace the FPR for $80 than the fuel pump for $600. What do you guys think - could it be the FPR? It idles, accelerates and runs like normal once started.
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