mjdxtreme

Thanks for the info. I'll get out there and look at some others to test-drive. Knew the deal seemed too go to be true. It was a 2016 Yukon slt with less than 8000 for under 47k. Unfortunately the others I have seen with 12k to 20k miles similarly equipt have been 50k+ so my something must be wrong alarm went off but figured I would check it out.

yea I have passed on that particular vehicle. Just not sure if I should continue looking at them or potentially move to another brand or just hang on to what my wife currently drives until a redesign occurs.

Alright guy I need your help. My wife and I are looking to get a Yukon or Tahoe but are concerned with this buffeting/booming noise. I have read through many of the pages and while there are many solutions that may help lessen the noise it seems like there is no full know cause of fix for this issue. Here is my dilemma, we found a Yukon that is a outstanding deal that we don't want to pass up but upon test driving it, the vehicle has this issue. I assume that's why the previous owner traded it in with so few miles on it, under 10k. Is this an issue with all of the yukons/tahoes or is it like the sierra/Silverado shake that some have and some don't? Also are there other variables that we know of that lessen the issue such as roof rack cross members, sun roof vs no sunroof. Any updates on those that have had a full resolution or know if this is an issue with most/all would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

If you are talking about in the third picture there is a rubber grommet for the cab there and then just a zip tie holding the wire look on there. Nothing really holding it to the cab except for what looks like double sided tape on the led strips. Find solid led strips like mine and you won't have to worry about wiring them together. There is a post on the page prior with an eBay link for the solid led strips that are like 5 or 6 ft long

My exterior lighting is turned off since I have hids with ballasts. I did not want to burn the ballasts up prematurely. This is one of the main reasons I decided to install the running board lights.

Link is listed above for what I bought. As far as running the wires into the cab on the drivers side there is a large rubber grommet the parking brake runs through. Poked a little hole in that and ran it through. On the passanger side there is a plastic plug that I drilled a small hole in to run the wires into the cab on that side used some silicone to fill any remain gap in the hole to make it water tight. Then fished the wire usong a coat hanger from the passanger side under the carpet and behind the center console. Then used wire t taps to connect.http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301947246753?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D183016357862_324272%2526itemid%253D301947246753%2526targetid%253D286717545765%2526rpc%253D0.15%2526rpc_upld_id%253D111409%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F301947246753%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9030785%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D764892186%2526adgroupid%253D39783961149%2526rlsatarget%253Daud-263678737656%253Apla-286717545765%2526gclid%253DCMDah6Pq8NICFQ92fgodNmcEVw%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1189100428547&ul_noapp=true

I appreciate all the info you have provided me with. Very useful for me to make my decision. Was considering setteling on a leveling kit but now going to eventually get the lift here in the near future.

Thanks for the pics. No rub on the sway bar or anything either. Looks like any rub would be when the suspension is compressed in a turn but looks like its not that bad.

Fabtech makes a kit that is priced similar to rc. Procomp is up there in price with bds. Have to see what kit is better suited. Do you happen to know what the baskspacing is on the stock 20s?

Thanks for the info. So far all have looked at procomp and rough country as they have a kit that works with the magnetic ride. I will check to see what zone has to offer as with bds I believe they only offer a 6 inch lift for magnetic ride and may be a little higher than I want to go. Procomp says no on stock rims and rc says i need spacers. I have read rc are junk but dont have experience with them. Edit: just checked out zone and not sure if they work with the magenetic ride their site does not say. I may have to email them and see or stop by one of my local lift shops.

If you can that would be great. Did you look at other setups besides the bds kit. I have a denali with magnetic ride control so my options are a little limited on what I can get. I am considering running 33s instead of 35s so it may get me a little more room. Not sure why all the kits say we cannot retain the use of stock rims.

Any rub in the front. I want to get a 4 inch lift but every kit I look at says you cannot use stock rims. Why did you place 1.5 inch spacers in the rear.

When you installed you light bar above where the front plate goes. Did you have to cut the plastic behind the light or did it fit without cutting a hole. I am lookong to install a light bar above the front plate cover on my 2015 denali but dont want to cut the plastic to get it to fit. Any advice would be appreciated.

If they have a 6 in kit for the magnetic ride it is going to just use extensions and spacers anyway. If you only want to go 4 inches you can just fab up a relocation bracket or see if the dealer can do a relearn on the sensor position rod which should put the ride back to factory quality. Now I have not done this but am considering a level or lift for my 2015 denali and read about these options.

Those are what I use for my running board lights on my truck.