chris15706

That noise was for sure the torque convertor. Last week it started slipping and then wouldn't go into gear at all. Just picked up my truck the other day with a new torque convertor and a rebuild on my transmission. Good times!

2017 4x4 Silverado 6 speed 130k miles. Blackbear tune since new Changed trans fluid and filter at 105k miles. Right before it shifts into the next gear it makes a whirring noise. I have a quick YouTube video below that you might have to turn up the volume even though the noise is much louder irl. It started about a year ago but only did it when I pulled the camper. Now it does it all the time. It seems to have trouble holding overdrive as well. I took it to a transmission shop, and they acknowledged the noise but didn't feel like it needed repair right away. They offered to replace the torque convertor and rebuild the trans for around $3600. Is this noise coming from the torque convertor? It doesn't do it if I rev it up in neutral. Video of noise:

Yes there is a way to do it without cutting into anything. Check out my thread on gmfullsize from a few years ago. I can easily return my truck back to stock with this setup. All the harnesses you need along with the steps I took is in the link. Also you can use the red and black from the amp bypass harness for power and ground instead of tapping into the factory harness. https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/2017-crew-cab-silverado-audio-upgrade.308436/page-2 Metra 70-2057: http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-2057 Metra 71-2107: http://www.metraonline.com/part/71-2107 Metra 72-5600: http://www.metraonline.com/part/Ford_wire+harness_72-5600 Stinger Speedwire: http://stingerelectronics.com/catalog/wire/9-conductor-speedwire-20ft Wiring: Factory Green Harness Left Front/Dash Speaker (+/-) Blue – Brown/Blue // pins 1 - 9 Right Front/Dash Speaker (+/-) Yellow – Yellow/Black // pins 2 - 10 Left Rear Speaker (+/-) Green – Green/Black // pins 3 - 11 Right Rear Speaker (+/-) White – Blue/Black // pins 4 – 12 Power // Red // pin 8 Ground // Black // pin 16 Metra 71-2107 Reverse Wiring Green Harness Left Front (+/-) White – White Black // pins 1 - 9 Right Front (+/-) Gray – Gray Black // pins 2 - 10 Left Rear (+/-) Green – Green Black // pins 3 - 11 Right Rear (+/-) Purple – Purple Black // pins 4 – 12 Power // Yellow // pin 8 Ground // Black // pin 16 Metra 70-2057 Amp Bypass Green Harness Left Front (+/-) Pink – Pink Black Right Front (+/-) Blue – Blue Black Left Rear (+/-) Red White – Red Black Right Rear (+/-) Purple – Purple Black

I caved and got it fixed at the dealer as i couldn't even find the condenser for r1234yf and didn't have the time to fix myself. $1700 and now i feel so dirty. If this was the regular r134a i would have been all over doing it myself since there is plenty info out there.

I have been following and hearing about this problem since i bought my 2017 brand new. Now at 64k miles afraid i am a victim as well. Noticed the last year or so a few times it would just blow hot air but it would be fine the next drive or two. It happened today but its not coming back this time. The compressor is not turning on at all. I cant visually see any signs of leaks or rust from the hoses or condenser and fuses are good. Went to autozone to get a can of coolant with the dye in it thinking i could pinpoint the leak then realized mine is the new r134yf coolant. This coolant is more expensive and harder to find so i dont really want to dump money into troubleshooting a leak i cant find. I might just cave in and visit the dealer. Has anyone had this problem with the newer type coolant? I noticed alot of the replacement condensers are for r134a only.

I had a similar experience. Originally ordered the 6112's and had to switch to the eibach kit. Eventually had to cancel because my order would never show up. This was a 3 month ordeal. Had my kit within 2 days from summit. The whole time it was damn near impossible to get a response. Nice guy but I would look elsewhere in the future. Hes too busy building desert runners and shit to fulfil orders. Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

The seatbelt buckle haha. It always ends up in that position from passengers and it rattles against that door panel.

This.....

I had a 2008 sierra 1500 lifted with 35's and regeared to 4.56 with a trutrac and black bear tune. I know that's a different truck but in my opinion if you want 37's get a 2500. Even 35's are hard on everything for a half ton long term. People that don't put on a lot of miles or trade in their truck every year or two will disagree though. If none of that matters to you regear for the fun factor. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

I had a level and then went to the eibach pro truck with the coil springs. Had the 5100's on my 08 sierra so I have some experience with that as well. Pretty much Eibach>5100's>level kit. The eibachs are very similar to the 5100's but everything is better with the replacement coils. From what I understand if you want a cloud like ride go with fox, icon, etc. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

I added a 1.5 inch body lift on my last truck. Couldn't really notice it was on there but it wasn't worth the effort. Same thing with 3 inch rough country "lift kits". If you want to do big tires on a 1/2 ton just get over it and get a huge lift on there. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

Not sure... I just grabbed what i had in the garage that fit the bolt.

I just did this to my truck as well and it fixed the problem for good! This was after 3 trips to 2 different dealers while my truck was under warranty.

I got it straightened out. It was easier than I thought. Just had to unbolt the wiper, lift it out, reposition and bolt it back up.

Thanks for the quick reply guys! I will try this out tomorrow and report back.