rudyb

We only had one snow day this last winter and they did just fine. I would say they're on par with the st maxx or duratrac. Same with rain, I don't have any problems.

I absolutely love them. They're quiet. Don't seem to wear uneven or too quickly. Ride is good. I'm running 42 PSI. Honestly, for the amount of highway and city I travel now, I could have gotten something less aggressive, but I really like how these look too! Comparing these to running Discoverer ST MAXX and Wrangler Duratrac in the past, the XLT is a great balance. My fiance is out running errands with it now, but I can go measure tread and give you my mileage when she gets back.

If they're putting 285/45/22 on a stock LTZ, I don't see why it wouldn't work unless they also have some lift or a different set up. I would hate to tell you to pull the trigger and then you end up with rub. Maybe if you can pull up and sit side by side with an LTZ with the 22's you might be able to get a better idea. Sorry I can't be more definitive.

See details here. Having your BCM or ECU reprogrammed shouldn't be a problem at all. To summarize, the mechanical vacuum pump output could decrease over time. In which case, it'll throw a code and say "Service brake assist" on your dash. There is a secondary, hydraulic powered, brake boost assist that can be used, but isn't very effective at low speeds under it's current configuration, which is why they want to reprogram your truck. TLDR: You're fine unless you see "Service brake assist" on the dash.

We’ve determined that OP is not a liar and is in fact in Mexico. Now, how did you record this with a potato? We had a nice engineering breakdown on drive shafts, do we have someone that can explain magic potatoes?

I finally order the rear shocks on Amazon and installed them about a week ago. Again, you guys were right. I’m amazed at how much of a difference it made. 10/10 couldn’t be happier!

Yours is disabled?

I think you’re only turning off traction control which will allow you to do some wheel spins. From my knowledge there is not way to just turn off stabilitrac which is used to correct the vehicle when sideways, etc. I’ve heard you can unplug the steering wheel location sensor (or whatever the correct terminology is) while the wheels are straight. This tricks the truck into thinking you’re driving straight while your tires are moving 80mph, example: actually drifting in the snow. I have yet to try this but I’m very tempted.

Not taped, and not that great with a razor blade. This stuff peels away and tends to tear right where you need it to. Excess can be tucked under the letter with a tooth pick or similar tool. Check out some of the vids on YouTube. Lol, I understand why. I’m getting tired of cleaning around them myself. I may end up debadging the doors. I’ll probably keep the tailgate letters. Looks a little plain without them imo.

There are a ton of videos out there that explain this so I won't do it here. Material used: Performix 11203 Plasti Dip Black Multi-Purpose Rubber Coating Aerosol - 11 oz (Amazon Link)

Thanks for the input. Sounds like I should do the rears soon. I've been very happy with the front. No regerts. I haven't really had an opportunity to take any good photos of the ride height but I'll toss one up. The front is still slightly lower than the rear, which I'm happy with.

you should sell your gimbal and get some nice audio equipment ;)

I considering pulling everything myself and having a shop do the swap, but I'm slow, didn't have a shop lined out that would take care of me, and didn't want to burn an entire Saturday. Thanks for the video. Can confirm, Bilstein 5100 is the way to go. My '16 no longer rides like a horse drawn carriage. I'm super happy with it! The shop took care of labor and alignment for $304, which is acceptable for me. I do not recommend the any leveling spacers. The shop told me that my struts were most likely making noise and damaged due to being over extended. I had the MotoFab 1.5" installed and I had them remove it. Plus, the ride is just incredibly better! FYI the Bilstein 5100 settings you can choose close to 1.5" is either 1.26" or 1.85". I went with the 1.85". I could do the rears myself, but I didn't plan on swapping them unless you all have info that says it's worth it. I'm about to head over to the Bilstein shocks thread and start reading.

Thanks for input and replies. I kept checking and finally found a shop for about half of what everyone else was quoting and they included the alignment which is neat. They had a slow morning so it’s in the bay now. www.jandttruck.com for anyone that’s stumbles on this thread later.

My factory shocks/struts are making a lot of squeaking noises and I've read a ton of good things about the Bilstein 5100 so I bought a pair on Amazon. I don't really feel like doing the work myself, but most shops around NW OKC are quoting me around $600-$700 to swap them out for me. This seems way to extreme to replace some shocks so I haven't got them replaced yet. Am I crazy? Is the job really that hard and worth $600, or do I need to man up and get some tools to compress the springs and do it myself? I put a leveling kit on so I've had these half way apart before and I didn't think it was that difficult. Any suggestions of a competitive mechanic in the area is also welcome! Thanks Edit: Truck is a 2016 Silverado 1500 4x4