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GMCanuck

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  1. Hey Folks - just wanted to update you all. My issue has been solved. I removed the drivers seat to allow me a bit better access to this area. As noted, the actuator worked fine, but it turned out that the plate on the actuator, that moves the blend doors (there are 2) was not engaging the second door - that controls the air to the floor vents. I guess when the last guy had it off (perhaps to change the actuator), it was not re-assembled properly. So I took it all apart, greased up the plate and reassembled it all. Now air is blowing again. Hope this maybe helps someone.
  2. Hey Folks, So I've been driving our 2013 Silverado 2500HD since last summer and noticed this winter that there was very little heat blowing at the floor when set to floor on the dash selector switch. Always lots of air blowing out of the windshield defrost vents. Only stops blowing from the defrost when set all the way to the left on vent. Figured it was a blend door actuator (or similar) problem. So today took the time to dig into this a bit. Turns out the actuator - located on the driver's side just above the accelerator - seems to be working fine. I removed the actuator and moved the blend door manually. Still seemed to be very little air coming out at the feet, no matter where I moved the door. What am I missing here???
  3. So here's a silly question (my truck has the same set-up - little indicator lights on the button itself)... Does your 4wd actually engage, just the light doesn't come on? Maybe the light is a response to indicate the 4wd is actually engaged and yours isn't hooking up. Just a thought.
  4. That's correct. I'll likely be grinding or air chiseling the rivet heads off and then separating the bracket from the frame. Yeah, the dealer told me they are sold together with the bracket. And I suspect by the time I get everything apart, the bracket may not be very "straight"... As for the bracket/bushing, I assume mine will look slightly different than your photo (since the bushing is perpendicular to the bracket), but it's certainly similar.
  5. I will certainly post an update once it's fixed. If you are looking at this particular bushing, you may need to use a pry bar to test for movement. The torsion bar seems to keep things pretty stiff in a resting position. Me just pulling on the cross-member did not move anything. I either had to get the truck bouncing, or use a prybar against the frame to get the bushing moving. Later...
  6. Well, I went out this afternoon to do a little more looking. It seems the torsion bar is actually putting upward pressure on the cross-member. So I'm thinking this should be fairly straight forward - simply place a block between the top of the cross-member and the unerside of the body - this way holding it in position during the work - or simply let it move up and then just pull it back into position following the bracket and bushing replacement. Now I just need my Helm repair manuals to arrive (on Monday or Tuesday), pick up the parts and get rid of this ANNOYING clunk...
  7. Yes, in the land of snow and ice. Fortunately, our road crews do not use as much salt as some other provinces/states, but still enough to excellerate the rusting process. Just to be clear, the rust is on the frame rail only. The "rusty-looking" line in the second photo - that looks like the edge of a rusty body panel - is actually just sandy-snow sitting along the top of the nerf bar.
  8. Exactly - that's why I spent quite bit of effort looking at the front end parts (i.e. ball joints, bearings, bushings, tie-rods, etc.). Finally noticed that when I pushed the front end up and down while standing beside the vehicle, the noise was actually coming from behind the cab. So I lay down on my back, placed my foot under the front fender well, and lifted/dropped the vehicle with my foot while looking around underneath. That's when I noticed the movement in the cross-member - BINGO!!! Now I just need to fix it...
  9. So I took another look around today for my front end clunk - AND FOUND IT ! ! ! ! ! Turns out that the bushing at the end of the cross-member where the rear of the torsion bar mounts is loose (see photos). The torsion bar is firm in the cross-member, but there is alot of movement and knocking in the connection where the cross-member attaches to the frame. The cross-member moves up and down when I lift the vehicle from belos. And since the rivets holding the bracket to the frame, I am assuming the bushing is worn. So, anyone know what is involved in replacing these parts? Can this be done with the torsion bar and cross-member in place? Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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