Gduck24

following.

I put airlift 5000 on my 4" ready lift 1500. Fixes the squat when I haul my toy hauler with about 50lbs in it. Rides better when I have a load, and i just delete to about 5lbs when I am without trailer and rides like stock.

So you have to have max trailering package right? Like the options for these cameras on your display are already set up?

Built mine. Stock storage thing is junk. 10" sub rounds out bose system. I can give some rough dimensions later.

Mine and my buddies both clunk. I checked clearances and nothing is hitting. Don't notice it much now.

Could have swore I read it wouldn't work in accessory. I didn't know how to get it in accessory so thanks. Now I feel silly.

At the track today and brought a fan to plug in the bed and put on the tailgate to cool off. Only works when truck is running. Got exist combined with a fan aren't fun. Anybody have schematics or more info on what it might take to use it with the truck off or on accessory?

It is slightly different. I just did mine yesterday and its easy. Took about 20 minutes without really knowing what I was getting into. I did not cut my flaps. I just removed the bracket that is behind the flap and drilled two holes vertically, and ziptied it back to the frame behind it. I gained about an inch, and I dont think you can tell anything from the outside. You can get a ziptie around the plastic behind the wheel well plastic without taking anything off. Use a serious ziptie, Turn the wheel so its close and you can use something to pry the fender away from the tire, while pulling the ziptie to hold it in place. Got a little less than an inch up front now.

Harness plugs into bose behind back seat mounted to wall. I saw another thread that if you cut some of the foam back there you can mount the amp on the wall with the bose stuff. Foam is not the seat foam, I think its a sound, or vibration isolation foam that is between the seat and the wall.

Thanks. I didnt measure the volume, because it was bigger than my last box and it sounded good before. Guessing a tad over 1 cubic foot by my rough calculation and memory. I have built so many boxes, many of them undersized with foam in them, and I can't hardly tell the difference. I guess I burnt out the frequencies that I'm missing with a smaller box. Its a 10", I was going to do down firing like my last box, but it would have been tighter on airspace, and the location of the speaker would have been pushed way closer to the front. Also didnt want to mess with feet, or cutouts along the edges. Dont guess it would have mattered. I like downfiring for protection of the speaker, sound is subjective. Had several boxes like this one firing up at the back wall and they sounded ok. Still dont have my harness so I dont even know. Factory bose is ok, but I think the door speakers are over worked and it just wont hit the lowest frequencies so this is just to relieve those speakers and round out the sound.

Couple reasons I guess. I dont like hitting that button everytime i get in, it was annoying. I really was jarred by the slight hesitation and feeling the engine die when I came to a stop. It wasnt ever really consistent either. I think start up is one of the harshest things on an engine, and I think this will be an issue down the road for longterm owners and maintenance on this truck. Less than regular startup wear, because the engine is hot and has oil already coating everything, but still more wear on engine and stress on battery, maybe AC etc. I think its a gimmick like AFM. I have had 2 trucks fail due to what I think was AFM on previous 5.3s. Stuck lifters and worn cam shafts etc. As soon as somebody figures out a way to turn it off on this truck I will. I have had probably 6 or 7 5.3L GM vehicles since they came out in 99.

Those angles can be off quite a bit on some of the lifts me and a buddy have done. Sometimes helps to take the nut/clip off to get it started, then pry it straight, or hold it with pliers as it begins to seat when you tighten it up. They will snug up and that part of the strut will seat flat again. Some lifts require swapping from drivers side to pasenger side depending on the top spacer, and this can throw that bottom angle off the other way. And you can turn the bottoms separate from the top 180, as the other guys mentioned.

Thanks! Its the really cheap, thin sub box carpet off amazon. Some staples, some glued at joints.

Built a sub box and added a lot of functional storage space. Waiting on harness to connect my amp.

Installed an autostop eliminator saw some potential in the dash. Also wanted to tidy up some wires by moving the usb and usb c port behind the dash. Previous Silverados had cubby holes in the cheaper models that you could buy and replace the USB port, but there’s no such thing in these new ones. I decided to take a plunge and cut a hole in my dash, then 3d printed a prototype cubby hole. I cleaned up the print a little but I think I’ll do another high quality print and really try to make it match the other dash pieces. Rerouted the usb cables through the side cubby of the console which is nice so wires aren’t all over the place our have to dig them out of the console. Turned out pretty good!