BLACK DEATH

Yeah I’ll just stick to the 5k intervals as it seems it’s good enough. 7500 sounds real good but I may never hit 7500 miles in one years time. i have several other vehicles I use all around

I used to do that also but 3k seems like it’s too early to change as the oil still seems good. I guess I’d just need to pay for an oil analysis to ensure 5k the oil is still good and keep doing 5k intervals

2010 1500, 4.8 2wd 4 door regular Dino oil,not synthetic... Ok guys, who believes or goes by the oil reminder that this years truck has? If I recall, i had right under 5000 miles on the current oil and it says 60% oil life is remaining. This makes no sense but I can believe anything now a days. per the manual it says it’s a method it uses with cold starts, driving times etc... that makes the percentage up. I changed it anyhow as with any oil I’d rather be safe than sorry with close to 5000 miles on it. I know a lot of newer trucks at my work go to 7500 miles before oil change is required in the fords. So what should one do, go by the indicator or just change it around 5k like I normally do

My 2010 has a bad motor mount also. When you take off above normal, you can gear it hit. Mine has 195k miles on it, it towed a 2k trailer most of its life and it’s stock with no mods done to the truck.

I’d do a cleaning at a place that cleans them right st the fuel rails or buy a fuel injection cleaning kit. It hooks up to your shrader valve and puts in solvent that cleans the injectors directly at the fuel rails. You can make your own setup like this or you can remove each injector and clean them individually. Look on u tube and watch all the injection cleaning methods out there

You have a pic of this or area as we have an 01 that leaks also

Direct swap, you should have no problems. All gas 5.3 from 99-07 obs with a 24x should swap right in. Then you can sell your original long block to recoupe some money, especially since it still works.

You can put any rear in there that fits. You have 3.23 gears, even a gu6 with 3.42s will work or even a gt4 with 3.73 will work. I’d go with what’s cheaper and could work. Or open up yourself and see what’s wrong with it. You will just have to get your truck programmed with the correct gear ratio for the ecu.

I have a 2010, 4.8 and 3.23 gears. These half ton trucks suck at towing period. My 4.8 always kicks out of over drive, when empty, just going over the over passes on the freeway. Even a 5.3 with 3.73 gears will be kicking out of 6th gear or 5th when towing an empty trailer. Cant even have the cruise control on without it down shifting all the time. If you stay in 3rd with a 4.8 you will be ok if the speeds you are traveling aren’t over 60 mph if not it’ll be Erving high and mpg drops. Ive always had a diesel to tow stuff, I’m going back to a diesel if I start towing more n more or even once a month out of town. It is well worth it especially when the freeway speeds are 75mph here

I want to flush mine also, 2010 with 195k mikes on what may be the dexcool crap. Its a hit or mis on dexcool

Are you talking just the gears or an entire rear swap? If your 4x4 you need to do the front also, hard to tell in the pic if you are.

Even better as I have hptuners also and it's only $100 to unlock it and do stuff like that. Xskier, why did you to 4.11s?

I thinking of going 3.73 in my 10. Guess I may have this issue also

It's a 2wd so I'm good on that

Sounds like what I may do. I may put the 3.73s in it for more grunt as that's an easier swap.