butzers09silverado

lol they didn't even take the wheel off... wow, just wow.

well, if you're swapping in the LQ4, I'd long block rebuild that LQ4, get a new valve drivetrain including cam/lifter/pushrods/rockers, aftermarket heads/port/polish, forged steel crank, over the cylinders, up-sized pistons, and dump a few grand into the lq4 before you just go and ram it in there.

ahhhh, i thought you had working fog lights and no switch, my fault.

common old school trick was to use the running lights as a trigger.... so that you could have the amber lights on and fogs come on at the same time before fog lights were standard. I used to have it setup that way in both of my pre-computer vehicles.... pull the light switch back one click on the 78 monte carlo and the running lights plus the fogs/driving lights came on. i suspect, somebody installed an aftermarket relay and used the drl's or the running lights as a trigger :-) you could always add a switch in the ground or hot to break the circuit whenever.

I have 285/60/18 on my '09 stock, general AT2 load range E, fitted fine.

when i had this problem it was a malfunctioning throttle position sensor, fyi.

OEM unless it predates fuel injection, lol.

I have 85,000 LY5 on my 09 with 2 issues to date, EVAP valve failure (cracked in 3 places and leaking tube to charcoal canister, fixed myself) and this new problem: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158122-2009-ly5-8cyl-mode-rough-idle-hesitation/

i had 3 cracks in my purge valve shown there, got a replacement (the cheap one without the relocation kit, it's the old suburban one) took off the valve and swapped it out, then got the light, had to replace the stupid hose shown.... used 1/2" hose didn't even need clamps it was so damn tight to get on..... still waiting after a month for the light to come back on, fingers crossed but my repair looks just like that.

how do you separate the solenoid from the can, it looks like there is only an o-ring there, is there some special tool or method for this? ok once i got it out from under the truck, i could see it was a twist out once you release the tab. how long does it take for the cel to clear.... or should i just pull the bat cable?

maybe a different sound? the fan blower is always on so when you shut the truck off the fan blower is still spinning... fyi.

mine too, its rpm and load sensitive.

my truck has done this since day one and i think it has to do with the intake system or the exhaust system/manifolds/resonators.... it's definitely something engine related maybe vacuum related or something like that. it is very noticeable when you're "on it" even with my muffler delete i can hear it.

I put multi-port fuel injection on a non-fuel injected 1984 S10.... it is a major headache, this would be easier in some ways and much harder in other ways. Dealing with the computer components is expensive. I agree that you'd be better off getting a truck with 6.0 or 6.2 already in it.

just put a long chain on it and use the angle of the plow to your advantage plus you can stack a lot easier I'd think.