Jump to content

nickvrebel

Member
  • Posts

    1,255
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

nickvrebel last won the day on September 14 2012

nickvrebel had the most liked content!

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://getonitracing.net

Profile Information

  • Location
    Baton Rouge, La
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2018 Colorado CCSB Z71 4X4 Cajun Red

Recent Profile Visitors

6,998 profile views

nickvrebel's Achievements

Senior Enthusiast

Senior Enthusiast (8/11)

33

Reputation

1

Community Answers

  1. your truck didn't come with a steering wheel?
  2. Care to share the solution? Actually I know (just seeing this), but since you have actually done it...
  3. Which cover are you entering to win? 15-ON Colorado/Canyon 5’ Box Tell us why the LOMAX cover is perfect for your truck? Very clean and low appearance, adds security to the bed. What features are most important to you when buying a tonneau cover, why? 1. Appearance, 2. Security, 3. Keeping my bed contents dry Do you have a tonneau cover on your truck? If so, which cover is it? Why are you looking for a change? I just traded in a Sierra with a Truxedo LoPro QT, Looking for something with more security and best looking cover. Truxedo had a great product back in 2009, but it's time to move on. What do you use your truck for? Everything from commuting in the City to deer hunting. I need a cover that can protect and secure my ice chest and other hunting gear.
  4. There is no alarm that will stop a tow truck, like others said: garage it and have good insurance
  5. it will swap long block for long block.... you will want to use the original fuel injectors/ rails for the truck. This will avert any issues with the possibility of a Flex Fuel/ non-Flex Fuel mix up. My truck has a 5.3L Aluminum block and is NOT Flex Fuel compatible, I know in the past there was different size fuel injectors used for Flex Fuel (larger), they can be made to work, but that would require a custom computer flash and it's just not worth the trouble.
  6. My 2003 had a little whistle to it, it started within the first few hundred miles and still did it 8X,XXX miles later, never had a problem and didn't bother me enough to look you could inspect the a/c belt (the small one under the serpentine) for wear - there is not tensioner on the A/C belt for a 2008, it's a "stretch to fit" belt. The tensioner on the serpentine belt wouldn't have anything to do with this.
  7. nice work. I know that it's common to have wires ran for other options, but I'm surprised to see it on a W/T model.
  8. The cleanest way is to use 05+ fans with a custom harness and tune to run them. For my 03 Silverado I had fans from a LS1 car with a custom harness and I controlled them with HP Tuners. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. stab in the dark here: check ALL fuses related to not only the electronic trailer brake system but also those for the trailer - there are several under the hood in the fuse panel. Sounds like something is shorted out, if you grounded a wire that was hot then you either blew a fuse or screwed something up in the computer.
  10. all of your old remotes will need to be reprogrammed in at the same time as the new ones. read the manual on how to program remotes, each time a new remote is to be learned it clears all remotes and you must relearn all of them.
  11. the relays are under the seat. The seat has only one power wire feeding it, it gets distributed under the seat. There is no fuse on the power to the relay, that's what the circuit breaker is for. Pull the breaker and reinstall it and you should have power again. Chances are you have a short somewhere under your seat and it's tripping the breaker. Could be a bad wire, seat motor or seat heater.
  12. I'm make some (educated) assumptions here, but it would explain what you found: *the fuse you are referring to, the 10a one: I can promise that 10a is not enough current to power a seat heater, most likely that fuse only powers the control circuit to the seat heater. It carries small amounts of power to activate a relay under the seat that turns on the seat heater *the breaker you pulled: it supplies all of the power to the seat motors and seat heaters, that's why it's 30a. ALSO, an automotive circuit breaker is designed to "trip" and stay in that state until power is removed, then it will reset itself and continue to function as long as power isn't overdrawn. This is unlike your house breakers that you go and turn off then back on, there is no switch on the automotive version. Some basic electrical to further explain: Switches rarely carry the full load of the item it is switching, it minimizes wiring size, weight and routing high amperage capability where it's not needed (no need for that much power to go in to your door panel control bank in the first place if it's coming back out). Instead millivolts are passed through the switch and those millivolts activate a relay that switches the big power. I have no idea why the other seat was still working unless you are mistaken and there is a separate breaker, I just don't know.
  13. it would be a LOT simpler to just swap in a 2002-2006 6.0L, it would be a direct bolt in and drive off swap.
  14. what are the symptoms? does it turn over? start then stop? security light on?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.