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chrisuns

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  1. Yup, they've used the aluminum driveshaft in the duramax since 01 in crew-cab short beds - Quite a few switch to a custom aluminum one for weight savings (I want too say the steel version weighs close to 40lbs or so). They're also fairly strong, guys are running well over 1700ft lbs. with them; but those are 5inch diameter shafts.
  2. How are you measuring your mileage? I'd ponder if the trip computer is off or getting tripped up. The only logical sense I could think of is driving in 4x4 or AWD unloads the control arms bushings a bit and changes the tire alignment (your alignment may be off, but I can't imagine it being 1-3MPG penalty off) - the front tires are being pushed when in RWD mode and GM set the alignment to compensate for this vs. when in AWD or 4WD the front is also pulling. Also, you're unlikely to experience any problems within the warranty period driving in auto 24/7, the cases and clutches are much more robust than people on the forums give them credit for. A lot of the bad tastes comes from the earlier autotrac cases, specifically the np246 - which the earlier versions of that case would cause grief driving it in 2wd (eats encoders, motors burned out, clutch clearances were set incorrectly by rebuild shops, pump rub, etc.). The 3023 doesn't have those issues and is 100x more intelligent.
  3. That's off a ways, I can get a new one for under $1500 from the dealer and I could get a full rebuild kit for under $400, clutches are under $150 IIRC. Then if you really want to go at it, Alto makes higher capacity clutches too - part#126710 While you're in there replace the ball bearings in the apply arms with 3x 10mm G16 carbon steel ball bearings.
  4. I liked auto; I used it anytime I decided to accelerate briskly, or there was the slight possibility of rear traction loss (rain, sleet, etc.). 4x4 was always reserved for snow, sand, or any condition in which you're constantly engaging and disengaging the clutch pack. Also, certain Jeep models exclusively use the MP3023 - the same transfer cases as the Silverado. However, their's only provides Auto4wd and 4x4Low - there isn't an option for setting it to 2wd. In fact, SRT8s use another similar transfer case: MP3010 and vectors thrust between the front and rear with the same clutches as the 3023 - so they're very robust transfer cases. IIRC, the Silverado's are similar in logic to the Jeep's too; in that it will also monitor throttle input and predict traction loss. Hence, when you floor it from a stop, you don't get the bang or sudden engagement feel of the older NP246s in the 99-06 models. Auto will diminish a bit of economy as well; as it engages the collar in the front differential and that in turn will cause the front drive-shaft, output gear, and chain to turn (30-50bs of extra rotational force); then the clutches will pre-load to roughly 5-10% of their torque capacity, which will increase with loss of traction and finally higher vehicle speeds. 4x4 and 4x4Low will do the same fashion as above; however, the clutches will engage to max torque capacity and the transfer case encoder motor will engage the motor brake to lock it into it's position. Simple put: I wouldn't use it 24/7 on dry concrete due to a bit lower economy and frankly, it is a little bit more of wear and tear. But that said, I wouldn't be afraid of using it when I want and/or need more traction. Especially, when it is as simple as turning a knob for the appropriate situation.
  5. NICE! How would you rate the output compared to JL13.5 or 2 10s sealed? Do they have good subsonic impact(feel the bass in the chest/nose, lol)? I was debating 2-3 of those or 2-3 Stereo integrity BM IV's.
  6. One thing I would love is a canbus integrated radar. - Where the display shows up on the DIC and the vehicle chimes give the warning. Plus, if you listen to your music loudly, it can turn down the volume during the warning and back up again.
  7. The part that isn't rated for constant duty is the ball bearings in the control actuator lever. - Its the part that actually applies the clutches in the TC. The balls are 13mm (0.512) in and should be made of a hardened steel. - GM went cheap on this part and they degrade. Jeeps run the same case that is constant duty with the hardened ball bearings.
  8. I would wager I could have kept up or passed a SS on handling with my shocks set on stiff. But the 2500hd suspension is inherently stiffer. If the minor inconveniences of speed-bumps and the occasion pothole don't bother you(As it will increase spring-rate went the suspension isn't on a level surface). You'll love the sway bars.
  9. ^X2, had them on my 2500HD. If you wanted to be stupid (traffic permitting & driver skill), you could take a corner advising 30 at speeds WELL above that. If you're going to drive at the limits like that to test it, realize, there's little warning if the rear end will kick out so play accordingly. For the older folks, I won't own a truck again without a Hellwig big wig bar. You sacrifice a bit of comfort on speed bumps taken at a angle and driveways, but the added stability and comfort in a level body is bar-none.
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