wavery

Simple......... do the math...... Given the same tires on each vehicle, it's pure power to weight ratio.

I used to have a Chrysler Concorde. The "check engine" light would come on @ 90MPH...... and stay on.......

You need to do 100mph to pass? Really? Hope you don't get clocked at that speed you'll be posting from jail My sentiments exactly...... if you need to exceed 92MPH to pass another vehicle, may you should consider giving yourself more distance before executing a pass, not more speed. Assuming the person that you are passing is doing less than 80, you would be passing the person @ over 12MPH. @ 12MPH, it should take about 5 seconds to pass.

This thread is a dream come true...." 6.2L (L9H) Owners - Get all your questions answered here If I buy a new truck with a 6.2 will you guys take up a collection to pay for it????

Check the wire connector that plugs into the module. Mine was melted so bad that it couldn't be used again even if I wanted to. I didn't notice it when I took out the resistor but after I read about the problem, I looked at it closely and I could see that it was melted inside so badly that the wires were shorting out in the connector. In fact, I kept my old relay because I don't thing the relay was bad, I think the whole problem was in my connector. I don't remeber which fuse it was but think that it said "Blower" on the fuse cover label.

Yep.....same problem...... just be sure that whatever you order comes with a new harness. When I bought mine, this was the only company that I found that had the new style harness (with the correct wires) the ones that I found at parts stores and amazon didn't include the harness.. BTW..... be sure to pull the blower fuse until you complete the new installation. One of those wires is hot all the time (as you found out). If it touches something, it will blow that fuse.

My bet is that your truck has CJ2 and needs this module (the bottom one for $99) http://www.motorcity.../Truck_Kits.htm BTW........ when I ordered mine from this company, I got it the next day..... I was blown away.

This is the one that I bought. Ya..... the problem is in the main harness. When the dealer replaces the resistor, they replace the harness too. http://www.motorcity1.com/

Something doesn't look right there........ If I were you, I'd wait until the dealer looks at it. The manual A/C model is a lot different. If I remember correctly (which is unlikely) mine had about 6 wires coming out of it. The issue was with the wiring and not really with the resister on the models that are effected by the service bulletin. The wire get so hot that they melt the connector and the wires short out inside the connector.

The trailer manufacturers can do that because they sell the trailer at or near dry weight. If the customer decides to add accessories, cargo etc......... the customer assumes all liability from that point on. In a way, the vehicle manufacturers do a similar thing with the "Tow rating" of the vehicle. Most vehicles are rated for towing with no passengers and zero cargo. The difference is, the vehicle manufacturers usually make the statement something like, "Any passenger and/or cargo weight must be subtracted from the tow rating" and the Owner's Manual will go on to make it even more clear. The NTSB has passed new guidelines for tow ratings for auto manufacturers. I hope that they do something to make trailer manufacturers be more honest in their advertising. BTW........ I highly recommend that you take your fully loaded trailer to a CAT scale and get it weighed. You may be in for a shock...... I know that I was...... I figured that my trailer would weigh 3500# TOPS!!!! (there's just my wife and I). When they handed me the slip that said 3980, I had them weigh it again.

I think that a lot of people buy tow vehicles that are under-rated for what they are towing. Most people look at the tow rating of the vehicle and the dry weight of their tow (out of ignorance). This is a disaster waiting to happen because they don't consider the true weight that they will be towing..... For instance, my trailer has a dry weight of 2865#........ true scale weight 3980# (fully loaded). The Trailer manufacturer advertises that this trailer can be towed with a small, V6 SUV. They actually have a picture of a Rav4 towing the thing. To me, that is down right criminal. My Silverado 1500 V8 is pretty well maxed out. How is a small SUV going to "Safely" tow this thing over hills with a family and load of cargo for a camp-out? When the true scale weight of the tow exceeds the weight of the tow vehicle everything changes. One must be very cautious in maintaining equipment and change their driving habits. I think that the problem is mainly the trailer manufacturers, not the truck manufacturers. I am truly surprised that someone hasn't sued the pants off of TrailManor and/or other "Light weight" trailer manufacturers for over-stating what vehicles can safely tow their products. I think that the truck manufacturers are pretty honest about their rated capacities. EDIT........ That's a shocker that the 1-ton has the same tow rating. Maybe that's why we see stuff like this once in awhile: Ring & Pinion change is ~$800. If you do it, be sure to get it done at a dealer and be sure that the tech knows how to set-up the gears. If it is set-up wrong, you can destroy the new ring & pinion on your 1st tow. I'd rather have GM backing up the job than an independent. YA!!!!!! it will cost you more but at least you can pull into any Chevy dealership and get the warranty honored.

This is a pretty good site. Plug your #s in here and see how you do. http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-trailer-weight-tt.shtml They also recommend a safety margin of 20% (that would be 20% of your GCWR). Trailer brakes are taken into consideration in these calculations. It should also be kept in mind that electric trailer brakes are not as reliable as your vehicle brakes. They should be tested regularly and at the 1st sign of ANY issues, one should pull off the road and check out the issue. A good understanding of electric brakes is essential with a load that large IMHO.

First off...... One needs to understand that towing is about 30% about pulling ability and 70% about stopping ability. In other-words, just because a vehicle can pull something to the top of a mountain really isn't a big deal. If the vehicle burns up on the way up, all of the pain is on that owner. What is a bigger deal is making it back down off of that mountain because if the vehicle fails to stop the load, the owner is not only going to feel a LOT of pain but others could be injured or killed at the same time. Manufacturers are pretty accurate about vehicles maximum capacity ratings. They operate in a very competitive market and if one manufacturer can boast a higher rating than another (considering legal and warranty ramifications) they will. IMHO, it would be a very big mistake to over estimate the ratings of any one vehicle. Burning up a transmission is the least of your concerns...... killing someone is a far greater concern. On flat lands, you may be just fine slightly over-loaded. In the mountains of Colorado, I would want AT LEAST a 20% buffer on my weight ratings (25% would be better).......... again JMHO.........

Dropping from 3.73 to 4.10 will make a dramatic difference in engine RPM which moves the torque rating higher at the same highway speed. It will also increase wear & tear and fuel increase over the life span of the vehicle if you do a lot of non-towing driving. As you obviously well know, be careful with tow ratings. They have no real value unless you are towing a load with the driver, no passengers and no cargo. What you need you look at is the GCWR (which you did). this will tell you the total load that the vehicle is rated to tow at (NEW). What weight are you talking about towing? How much cargo and how many passengers (weights)? If you are really maxing out the trucks ratings with the 3.73s, 4.10s may not be your best option (depending on how much you use the truck for non-towing). If you use the truck mostly for towing, you want a 20-25% margin. A 1-ton may be a better solution.

Wouldn't you know it........ I just bought the parts ($75) and di this myself about 2 months ago.....