ProStreetDriver

Video tutorial on how to rebuild brake calipers on your vehicle. For this I’m using my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 as an example, these are two piston calipers, however the same process still applies to single piston calipers too. Being that the truck is going through for a safety, these do need to be repaired. When I priced out new calipers, they were about $150 per side and a rebuild kit was about $20 per side. Calipers will need to be rebuilt if they’re leaking, sticking, or having ripped dust boots. https://youtu.be/8_6WevdusdA Tools/Supplies Needed: -wire brush -brake cleaner -brake fluid -socket set and ratchet -wrench set -standard screwdriver -new seals -block of wood -air compressor -scuffing pads Procedure: Loosen the master cylinder to relieve any pressure build-up when removing the calipers. Use large interlocking pliers to compress the pistons if possible. Pinch the rubber flex line so the all the fluid doesn’t drain from this line. While the caliper is still in place, use the appropriate sized socket to break the bleeder screw free. The caliper is still in a stationary position so it’s a bit easier to work with if the bleeder is seized. Being that the caliper is being rebuilt, you can use a little heat from a propane torch. Try not to strip it, if that happens, replacements can be purchased. Disconnect the brake flex line, have a drain pan ready to catch any dripping fluid. Remove the slide pin bolts and then pull off the caliper. Flip it over to help some of the fluid drain. Using brake cleaner, wash the caliper to remove any dirt or brake fluid. Even spray the fluid inside the caliper, this will reduce the amount of fluid being sprayed out when the pistons are removed. Use an air compressor, I set the regulator to 50psi. Too much pressure will push out the piston with too much force which may cause damage and has a higher risk of harming yourself. Make sure the bleeder screw is tight too. Keep your fingers far away from the pistons as they can come out with force and I’d also recommend wearing safety glasses. Use wood or plastic to give the pistons something to hit against, don’t use the frame of the caliper or steel as it’ll damage the pistons. It helps if you have something wide enough where it can push both pistons out almost fully, that way if one sticks, you won’t have to struggle keeping the other in place. If one piston comes out too soon, then push it back in, then wedge it into place until the other comes out. Remove the dust seals, these just fit into a slot and they can sometimes be stuck in place due to rust. Clean the pistons using brake cleaner, then inspect to ensure there’s no excessive rusting, pitting, scraps, or any other type of damage which can cause leaking or premature failure of the seals. Wash the caliper with brake cleaner, removing any brake fluid. Clean up any loose rust and dirt using a wire brush and wash using brake cleaner. Use a standard screwdriver or scriber, some which can clean the groove sufficiently, remove any dirt or rust for the dust boots slot. The standard screwdriver to remove the fluid seals. Gently remove then, don’t damage it’s slot as this can cause a leak. Use a 600 grit or higher scuffing pad to clean up the seal’s grooves. Use a 1000 grit scuff pad to clean up the pistons, removing any debris. Finish up with a metal polish to leave a clean finish which will ensure we have a good sealing surface and all the surface debris has been removed. Then give them a final clean with brake cleaner. Only using brake fluid as a lubricate, anything else would cause contamination, apply it in the seal grooves and seals. Install the fluid seals and then finish up install the dust boots. Install the pistons, more brake fluid is applied to the outside surface where the seals will be in contact with. I used a standard screwdriver to pull around the dust boots, once they're in place, then push the pistons in by hand. Give the caliper a final wash using brake fluid. Install the newly rebuilt caliper and tighten up those slide pin bolts. Reconnect the brake line and install new crush washers and torque the banjo bolts to the correct factory specifications. Then finally bleed the brakes, start from the furthest wheel first.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vi3hRDgviDA Video tutorial on how to flush your vehicle’s brake fluid using a pressure bleeder. I am working with a 2007 Volvo C30. There is usually specific maintenance intervals for brake fluid and this information can be found in your vehicle’s owner’s manual. Replacements maybe required 30,000km/20,000 miles or every 2 years or 160,000km/100,000 miles or every 10 years. Brake is hygroscopic, meaning it’s able to absorb moisture along with breaking down from heat, jeopardize braking performance or causing premature failures on components. Tools/Supplies Needed: -wrenches -about 10 inches of clear rubber hose -clean rags -brake fluid -pressure bleeder -vacuum pump or turkey baster -jack -jack stand -wheel wrench Procedure: -locate the master cylinder reservoir -wipe around the reservoir cap -determine what type of brake fluid your vehicle takes and the capacity by referring to your owner’s manual -you will need about 0.5L more of fluid in order to complete the flush -the kit comes with both a European specific cap and a generic cap to be used on any vehicle -select the cap best suited for your vehicle and install -a turkey baster or vacuum pump can be used to remove a majority of the old fluid in the reservoir, however some of these reservoirs can have an irregular design or include baffles making this difficult -so we can skip this method and it will require slightly more fluid removal at the first bleeder unit we start seeing clean fluid -screw the feeder line onto the tank and then snap the quick disconnect into place -pump the system up to about 15psi and monitor the gauge for a pressure drop -once you have verified there is no leaks, release the pressure by pressing the pressure relief valve and disconnect the line -remove the pressure relief cap to fill the tank -the tank should have enough fluid so it doesn’t run empty and risk the chance of introducing air into the system -reinstall that cap and reconnect the feeder line -pump the system up to about 15psi and verify there is no pressure leask -pressure requirements may vary between vehicles, if you exceed a manufacturer’s pressure limit this may damage internal seals within the braking system -some vehicles also have different bleed procedures, such as bleeding the closest wheel to the master cylinder, while others require bleeding the furthest wheel first that tends to be the most common -for this vehicle I am starting with the furthest wheel first -jack up the vehicle, remove the wheel, and install a jack stand -locate the bleeder screw, remove the cap and wipe away any dirt -install the correct sized wrench and then a clear rubber line going to a catch container -loosen the bleeder and allow the fluid to drain until clean fluid is present in the line, then tighten -roughly 40% of the system’s fluid will come from this location -clean the bleeder of any residue, reinstall the rubber dust cap, and then reinstall the wheel -move onto the next furtherest wheel, this time being the driver’s rear -using the exact same procedure, drain the fluid into a container -roughly 30% of the fluid would have been removed from the total system’s capacity -monitor the pressure bleeder so the pressure doesn’t drop below 10psi -moving onto the front passenger side wheel, again using the same procedure -and finally the last wheel being the front driver’s side -you should be left with some fluid in the tank which is perfectly normal and needed as a safety -release the pressure in the pressure bleeder, than close the valve and disconnect the line -ensure the fluid level in the reservoir is correct -inspect the reservoir cap seal for any damage, replace accordingly, then reinstall the cap -start the vehicle and make sure the brake pedal is firm