Jump to content

CapnDean

Member
  • Posts

    334
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CapnDean

  • Birthday 10/20/1963

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Name
    Dean Scarbrough
  • Location
    Gulfport, MS
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Retired School Principal, Boat Captain
  • Drives
    2017 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali

Recent Profile Visitors

3,815 profile views

CapnDean's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (5/11)

4

Reputation

  1. 2009 3500 HD Dually with 6.0 Gas engine. At 100K miles the truck got a crate motor from GM and a Crate transmission. It was an extended warranty deal. At least that's what the previous owner said. The engine runs like a top, plenty of power and no noticeable oil consumption. At 215K miles I lost the transmission. Shifting hard, not shifting at all, revving up and BANG into gear from standing start. My transmission shop dropped the pan and there was plenty of metal to go around. Shop recommended buy a reman from one of the reman places..... he said they can do it better than I can due to volume, they do more, it will be faster and the also have a longer warranty than I can provide (3 years 100K miles). I contacted 3 of them, Powertrain products, Jasper and one other.... Jasper wasnt the cheapest but they had a gearbox on the shelf. Had it installed, programmed and it worked like a Singer sewing machine..... until it didnt. At 5000 miles and 60 days into our relationship......slipping in 5th and 6th gear. So there it sits,,,,,in the shop, no transmission in it, waiting on a replacement transmission from Jasper. If you search Jasper horror stories there are plenty, But in my case .... at least so far.... they are honoring the warranty without issue, Granted they dont have one on the shelf so it will be 2 weeks with out my workin truck...that kinda sucks, But here is my concern: My truck seldom goes down the road without a trailer behind it, either a tractor, skid steer or mini excavator. I know that this truck tows, tows heavy and tows often. My question for this group is as follows; Am I pissing in the wind letting Jasper replace this transmission? Am I likely to be in this same boat in another 5000 miles? Does anybody here have a line on a better transmission builder? I am thinking about asking Jasper to upgrade the clutches in this one on my dime..... Its not so much the money, its the down time that hurts me.
  2. I am using a gooseneck dump trailer, I have never seen a 5th wheel dump trailer. I cannot imagine why a 5th wheel could tow more than a gooseneck. Please explain.
  3. I have been towing a dump trailer loaded with limestone and sometimes mason sand behind my 3500HD truck. I have no problems whatsoever towing, but I am often dragging 16.000 lbs or better. I just looked up the manufacturer specs on what this make and model truck can tow..... 9200 lbs. WOW..... I look up a 2021 3500HD and of course I see a configuration up to 36,000 lbs. So the obvious question here is - - What the heck is so different about a 2021 one ton dually that allows it to tow 4X the weight of my 2009 Dually? Anybody out there care to speculate? I see trucks like mine hauling a lot more weight than I do without trouble. What gives?
  4. 2009 Silverado 3500HD DRW Gas: Code P2771, Service 4wd Light illuminated. Shifter knob buttons illuminate at engine start but immediately extinguish. Here's what happened; I used 4Hi to get out of a sticky spot - I did my usual coasting in neutral return to 2wd shift. When I got on hard pavement and took off....it was evident I was still in 4Hi. I pull off to the side of the road and started screwing with the knob trying to get it to shift OUT of 4Hi when it shifted into 4L and hasn't budged since. I read the code: 4WD Low Switch Circuit. (Okay Duh...its stuck in 4LO so yes its gotta be that!). No amount of monkeying with the transmission (shifting fwd to reverse & neutral) while working the transfer case shifter knob has any impact. I cleaned the grounds at the frame, they are all bright and make a solid ground. No Joy. The 30 AMP fuse in position 67 (TREC) has not blown. Is there another fuse that operates the transfer case? I cannot find it if there is. I replaced the shift motor with a brand new AC delco unit. No Joy. It is important to know that the transfer case position indicator light does NOT light up (indicating that the TC is in 4LO) - I know that the light in the switch is good because it comes on when I start the truck, BUT: Normally there is a tell tale amber light showing that you're in 2HI or 4HI or whatever. Another symptom of this is that my speedometer is reading ZERO when moving in 4LO. I also disconnected the battery for 30 minutes etc... trying to re-boot the computer hoping that might do it. No luck. While changing the shift motor I did check to see if I could manually move the shaft that the shift motor turns and it does not appear to be jammed in any way. IF I KNEW WHICH WAY to turn it, I would at least manually shift it out of 4LO so that I could at least drive it! PLEASE somebody who has experienced this before help out and tell me what's next!
  5. I bought a 2009 LTZ 4wd and the PO has 19.5' aluminum wheels on it. I am looking for stock wheels. These are way too big. 245 70 R19.5 plus they are hell to balance.
  6. Well I can answer my own question now. RPO TP2 (Aux Camper Battery) The solenoid is not energized until the alternator is producing voltage. So it is clear that the "brain" lies somewhere between the voltage regulator and the ammeter gage in the truck. It is actually a ingenious set up. The Auxillary Battery is there to power the camper. It is disconnected from the Chassis starting battery by the solenoid. This way you can kill the Aux battery while camping, and still be able to start your truck when you go to leave. When you start the truck - the solenoid gets energized from the alternator which closes that circuit and allows the alternator to charge the Auxillary battery. IF the solenoid were energized just by turning the ignition key to the "run" position..... The Starting battery could actually try to pull through the smaller 6 gage wire....in the event of a low chassis battery. You wouldn't want this to be able to happen.... It would be like using an extension cord as a pair of jumper cables.....the wire would fry.
  7. I am restoring a 1992 Camper Special Dually. It was repainted (sloppy job) and I am beginning to wonder if the Silverado Badges were stuck on there in pace where Scottsdale badges used to be. Anytime I go for parts the parts store asks is it a Scottsdale? I answer yes because according to several local parts places there is no "Silverado" option. Anybody know a sure fire way to tell a Scottsdale from a Silverado in this year range? RPO codes do not seem to specify. Insert other media I can say that aside from the 5 speed manual....everything else would be consistent with a Silverado (Power windows power locks etc...) anybody know for sure?
  8. I recently bought a dually to tow heavy trailers. Believe it or not - it o nly has 40K miles on it. It was a camper special for the first 25 years of its life. It has a dual battery set up but the second battery has been removed. It has a solenoid on the passenger side where the second battery used to be. The solenoid works if I hit it with 12v. It also has a 6 gage wire going to the start battery. I can tell that it is set up so that when the solenoid is engaged....the truck will charge the second battery. BUT: I cannot seem to figure out what has to happen to command the solenoid to close. There are 2 smaller wires going from the solenoid in through the firewall but aside from that, I cannot figure out where they go and what I need to do to restore this second battery to working condition. I have checked and the solenoid is not closed with the ignition key on or the engine running (as I thought it should) but there is no place inside the cab for the driver to tell the truck...CHARGE THE AUX battery. Has anyone any experience with these? Where is the controller in the cab?
  9. Thank you y friends.....I didnt look UP.... I just assumed it came from down low.
  10. My daughter got out of the back seat last night, the pictured part came with her. I cannot figure out what it is or where it is supposed to go, anybody?
  11. My new to me 2017 2500HD Denali Duramax would not accept fuel. I had to fill it ever so slowly to prevent backlash and spewing fuel all over the place. It was obvious to me that the vent was not venting. I shot compressed air into the vent line and determined that it was not clogged with a dirt dauber or anything like that. I traced the line to the top of the fuel tank....it does not appear to be kinked TOO badly at the top of the tank (but a 90 degree fitting sure would have been a nice touch GM). Best I can tell, when the truck is full of fuel, fuel can slosh up into the filler neck and back flow down in the vent hose which happens to be about 4" longer than it really needs to be. This allows fuel to get trapped in the sag and prevents air from entering the fuel tank. I shortened the vent hose 3.5", re connected it at the filller neck and zip tied it to the filler hose so that it will not be able to sag. Problem solved, It can take fuel at full pressure now. Hope this helps the next person that has this problem.
  12. Did I say I love my new truck? Well I just tore off the passenger side mirror exiting my garage. I'm just not used to the difference in width between this truck and my old 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I took it in to my local Chevy dealer and shelled out $800 for the repair. Expensive lesson on why power fold in mirrors are there. There is one oddity however.... perhaps someone here can help me understand this. Immediately after I unplugged the wires from the dangling side view mirror I got a check engine light (P0073) air intake temp is what onstar said. So I just figured that by unplugging the mirror It caused the truck to throw that code. After replacing the side view mirror. My local Chevrolet dealer said that I needed to take the truck over to my local GMC dealer to have the check engine light problem corrected. Their position is that since the truck is still under warranty, (and get this) since I did not buy the truck from them.....I would have to go to my nearest GMC dealer for any warranty work. Mind you that I bought this truck out of state...so it is not like my local GMC dealer is the selling dealer either. I explained to them that I believed that the code was the result of me tearing the mirror off since that is IMMEDIATELY preceeded the code. Regardless - I asked them to clear the code for me since they did the repair. They complied. Does that make sense that a Chevy dealer will repair a GMC truck (even had the mirror in stock) on my dime but if it is a warranty job shuffle me off to a GMC dealer? I mean is that legit?
  13. My 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD rolled over 200K miles. I got the fever and BAM. I am going to miss the EFI Live programming and fuel economy it provided. I did not have to fool with regen or DEF either. BUt on the FLIP sie...Holy Moses this rascal has sooo much technology. I am overwhelmed. I do need to order a set of leveling keys if anyone has a recommendation for the best ones. I would also like to know how to tell how much DEF I have aboard well before it gets below 30% - - anybody know how to do that?
  14. Only a minor annoyance...but why wont my windows work with the key ON and the engine OFF? Left them down and tried to put em up without starting the truck....NO haps. Start the truck, wait about 2 seconds and viola... Anybody ever have this occur?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.