This is a Photo of my 2009 GMC Sierra SLT with the Stock Steering Wheel, the Goal is to Install a Heated Steering Wheel from a 2009 GMC Sierra Denali which Features Heat.

1. Open the Hood, and Disconnect the Battery. Once Disconnecting the Battery Wait 15 Minutes to Let the Electrical System Completely Drain.

2. After performing the 1st Step, Remove the Airbag. You will need to find a small tool which can fit straight into the holes on each side of the Steering Wheel Shroud. There is a Clip in there which needs to be depressed which will release the Airbag. Once you have released the Airbag, pull it away from the Steering Wheel and there will be 2 Plugs which you will need to unplug. They are color coated so you can't confuse them. Take the Airbag and set it somewhere out of the way with the logo facing up. Your Steering Wheel will then look like this.

3. Remove and Set Aside the Nut which holds the Steering Wheel onto the Steering Column. Then Take Out Your Steering Wheel Puller...

4. Once the Steering Wheel is Loose, Carefully Pull it Away from the Column and you will need to Unplug the Harness which runs from the Steering Wheel into the SIR Coil. After this Remove the Wheel and Set Aside.

5. You will now be ready to remove the Tilt Lever and Steering Column Covers. You will need to pull firmly on the Steering Column Tilt Lever and it will eventually pull away from the Column.

6. You will now need to Remove the Steering Column Covers...there is an Upper and Lower Half to this....basically you will need to be careful when doing so...I used a very small screwdriver to kinda work them apart, and eventually the come apart. Remember that if you are going to be using that small screwdriver, don't go prying on areas that you will see when everything is reassembled. I started in the area of the SIR Coil and worked my way from there.

7. After the Column Covers are removed, you will then need to remove the SIR Coil. There is a Snap Ring that does have to come off first. Remove and set aside the Snap Ring, then unplug the harness which runs into the backside of the SIR Coil and you can then pull it off the Steering Shaft.

8. Once the SIR Coil is removed from the shaft, you will then need to cut a few of the Zip Ties which hold the SIR Coil to the Steering Column harness. Please be sure to note the location of those Zip Ties as you will be replacing them shortly on the Re-Install. Then trace your wiring over to the Driver Side Kickplate, above the Hood Latch and you will see the Yellow 4 Pin Plug. This is where the SIR Coil Plugs into, unplug this and remove the SIR Coil from your truck. I found this step was easier to perform by removing the driver side knee bolster.

9. It is now time to Re-Install your New GM SIR Coil from a Sierra Denali...Folks, buy a New Coil...they are like $90 bucks, but since they have never been installed, they come with the orange alignment tab which locks them into place, until you break the tab once the SIR Coil is installed. This helps to insure a trouble free installation for the SIR Coil because it will be aligned properly.

10. Once you have Installed the New SIR Coil and have Re-Installed the Snap Ring, break the Orange Alignment Tab...it will just simply snap off, and now the internals of the Coil will be able to move with the Steering Column as designed. Now is also the time to Plug in the SIR Coil into the Steering Column Harness, Route/Zip Tie Your Wires, and also Re-Connect the Yellow 4 Pin Plug down by the Driver Side Kickplate.

11. The Heated Steering Wheel Plug...you will notice with this Coil that it has a 2 Pin Plug on each end. These Green Plugs are for the SIR Coil and carry the Power and Ground for the Heat Feature in the Wheel. This is what is different from that of the Standard Coil, and is why you have to replace it for the Heated Wheel. For the "Truck" End, I simply found a mating 2 pin plug, and then made my own harness with a power and ground wire. I did this so if we ever need to service anything on the steering column we can simply unplug the wires if need be.

12. I then found a good grounding location, which I used a bracket in the dash which also is where the Rearview Camera System Grounds.

13. I then went to the Electrical Center upon the Firewall to the left of the Brake Pedal. I removed the cover and found a couple open terminals and chose one, with a switched power source which will only let this Heated Steering Wheel work when the Key is in the "Run" position.

14. It was now time to Re-Install the Driver Side Knee Bolster as I had completed hooking up everything, and tucked all my wires away as if they were factory installed. Also Re-Install Your Steering Column Covers.

15. The Next Process is to mount your heated steering wheel. Make sure to plug that Steering Wheel harness back into the SIR Coil and then align your steering wheel and press it into the splined shaft. Once this is completed, hook up the 2 Green Plugs...1 from the SIR Coil and 1 from the Steering Wheel. Also Re-Install and Tighten the Steering Wheel Nut.

16. Reinstall Your Airbag at this time, again please remember to use caution when working near the Airbag.

17. Once you have double checked your work, and are confident in a job well done, re-connect your battery.

18. Start your truck and verify all Steering Wheel Functions. Audio Controls, Power to the Cruise Control Button, and also Check out the New Heated Steering Wheel Button and Verify Operation of the Heated Wheel. Also upon start up, make sure your Airbag Light flashes a few times and then goes away. This means the system check is complete.

19. Enjoy Your New Sierra Denali Heated Steering Wheel!

I hope this helps those of you that are wanting to do the project. I have done this on my 2007 and 2009, each truck required the same process! Any Questions Let Me Know!

The first step to the repair was removing the seat.  Take the headrest off, it'll be easier to if you just get it out of the way right away.  Removing the rigid seat back is easy, and you can follow PI1091 for more info on that.  There are only 2 T50 bolts holding the seat in place.  Remove the plastic trim covering the seat tracks, and move the seat forward enough to get access to the bolts at the rear of the tracks.  With the trim removed, you can break the bolts loose and remove them.  I read this next tip online, but disconnect the negative battery lead before removing the big yellow and grey wire connector that you can now see with the trim removed.  That way you avoid potentially, yet unlikely, causing an air bag light to come on in your dash that your dealer would have to reset.  Slide the red safety tab back on the connector, then rotate the grey latch to disengage the connector.  This is the only connector going between the seat itself and the vehicle body.  At this point I took off all the seat trim I could get to.  The trim piece with the power seat controls has a hidden philips screw that is on the lower front of the seat that you have to get to from behind the trim.  Otherwise, all the other trim has visible screws.  Next, remove the seat belt anchor (another T50 bolt).  You'll have to take off another piece of seat trim covering the pretensioner assembly, and disconnect a wire that runs to the seat belt pretensioner trigger.  The pretensioner wire comes off by first prying up on the red safety tab, and then it just lifts straight off.

I went to my local dealership. They wanted $900 to replace the vacuum pump. It broke out as $615 in labor and $285 in parts. After looking around online, I couldn’t find a detailed write-up or video on this repair. I put together a write-up for anyone else who might want to save a few hundred bucks

Be easy on me, I do a little light mechanical work but and have never done a write-up. I’m sure I screwed some things up…

Supplies I Used:

·       Flathead Screwdriver

·       Plastic Pry Tool

·       Small Hook Pick

·       3/8-in Ratchet

·       3/8-in Torque Wrench

·       3/8-in Drive 3-in Extension

·       3/8-in Drive 6-in Extension

·       1/2-in Drive 24-in Breaker Bar

·       1/2-in Drive 5-in Extension

·       10mm Socket (3/8-in drive)

·       11mm Socket (3/8-in drive)

·       15mm Socket (3/8-in drive)

·       24mm Socket (1/2-in drive)

·       7 Quart Drain Pan

·       OEM Stretch Belt Installation/Removal Tool (AutoZone Loaner P/N 27272)

·       Red Paint Pen

·       Small Bungee Cord

·       Medium Strength Threadlocker

Replacement Part:

·       ACDelco GM Original Equipment Vacuum Pump -- P/N 12669488 (I bought it from gmpartsgiant for about $130 shipped)

Step 1 – Prep the Workspace:

• Park the truck on a level surface
• Lock steering wheel about 1/16^th of rotation right of center
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal
• Remove the plastic skid plate/shielding from below the engine compartment (four 10mm and two 15mm bolts)
• Place the drain pan on the ground below the vacuum pump
• Pull the air intake tube away from the throttle body to give access to the crank pulley from above
  • Disconnect the two crank case vent hoses from the intake
  • Disconnect the intake from the throttle body by loosening the clamp and pulling it back
  • Pull the intake up and toward the passenger side. Secure it, out of the way, using a bungee cord
• Cover the throttle body intake with a plastic bag, secure with a rubber band

Step 2 – Remove the Lower Steering Shaft

• With the paint pen, mark the steering shafts at the connection points between the intermediate steering shaft and the steering gearbox input shaft. This will be used for reference at reinstallation.
• With the steering wheel locked about 1/16^th of a rotation right of center, the upper bolt (closest to the firewall) of the lower steering shaft easily accessible. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt. Note: The upper bolt is secured with a collared nut that wraps around the shaft. When the bolt is completely removed, you should be able pop the nut off the shaft.
• Moving down the shaft, there is an 11mm bolt that fastens the lower steering shaft to the steering gearbox input shaft. I was able to easily access this bolt by unlocking the steering wheel and slightly moving the wheel toward center. Remove the 11mm bolt.
• With both bolts removed, remove the lower steering shaft from the steering gearbox input shaft by pulling upward. Once the lower steering shaft is separated from the input shaft, slide the lower shaft down and toward the front of the vehicle to separate the lower shaft from the intermediate shaft.

Step 3 – Remove the Vacuum Pump

• Place the stretch belt removal tool on the vacuum pump pulley. Using the 1/2-in drive 24-in breaker bar, 24mm socket and 5-in extension, turn the crank pulley until the belt slips off the vacuum pump pulley.
• Follow the vacuum line from the brake booster to the vacuum pump. Using the plastic pry tool, separate pressure fit fasteners holding the vacuum line in place. Additionally, remove the pressure fit fastener securing a wire loom to the pump
• Using the hook pick, carefully remove the retaining clip where the vacuum hose is attached to the vacuum pump. Note: There is a heatshield around this fitting the will need to be carefully peeled back.
• Separate the vacuum hose from the pump and rotate the hose out of the work area.
• Four bolts secure the vacuum pump in place. Using a the 11mm socket and a combination of the 3/8-in drive extensions, loosen all four bolts.
• While holding the vacuum pump in place, finish removing all four bolts and separate the pump and gasket from its mounting point. Note: About 1/4 to 1/3 of a quart of oil will leak out into the drain pan during this process.
• Lift the pump out while rotating it around the wire looms and belts (this will take some finagling).
   

Step 4 – Install the New Vacuum Pump

• Coming from the top, rotate the new pump into position. Note: The pump I bought came with four new bolts and a new gasket.
• While ensuring that the gasket is firmly in place, use the 11mm socket and extensions to finger tighten the four bolts.
• With the 3/8-in drive torque wrench, torque the four bolts to 23 ft/lbs. Note: I called my dealership service department and was told the torque specs over the phone. I have no documentation showing the specs
• Rotate the vacuum hose back into location and attach to the pump. Snap the retaining clip back into place and put the heat shield back into position.
• Push the pressure fit fasteners back into position
• Using the reverse process of removal, reinstall the belt. Note: if you are reusing the same belt, be sure to check that it is in acceptable condition for reuse.
   

Step 5 – Reinstall the Lower Steering Shaft

• Lining up the paint pen marks, slide the lower steering shaft back onto the intermediate steering shaft. Once the lower shaft and intermediate shaft are together, slide the lower shaft onto the steering gearbox input shaft.
• Apply the threadlocker to both bolts. Reinstall each bolt (15mm and 11mm) and torque to 35 ft/lbs. Note: I called my dealership service department and was told the torque specs over the phone. I have no documentation showing the specs.

Step 6 – Reinstallation of Workspace Items

• Reinstall air intake tube using the reverse process outlined in step 1.
• Reinstall the plastic skid plate/shielding from below the engine compartment (four 10mm and two 15mm bolts).
• Connect the negative battery terminal.
• Check engine oil. Refill as needed (1/4 to 1/3 quart)

This tall seal is fairly stiff. I can probably pull it down with bar clamps, then tighten the supplied clamps to hold it down; but want to make sure I'm not missing anything before I tear up brand new (and expensive) rails. And, of course, today is Saturday and their support is closed. I'll sleep on it and try it again tomorrow. If I can't sort it out by Monday morning, I'll call their support then. Thank you for any guidance you can provide in the meantime.

I found this picture by accident after three hours of searching for a picture of the routing for the steel lines for my  2006 GMC Sierra 4wd.  Most other GM trucks would be the same or very similar.

I cannot find a way to post just the picture.  Open the link in Adobe Acrobat and go to page 14.  You can blow up the picture in Acrobat, around 300 % gives you a clear easy to read picture.  

lines run in order, from inside edge of frame (in plasic clips) or top edge of frame (in plastic clips) outward or downward.   If you run your lines in this order there is no crossing or bending of lines necessary.

Antilock brake ports:

1. top center port to right front brake

2. top left port to left front brake

3. top right port to rear brakes (actually, this line runs in it's own clip

4. bottom left port to master cylinder rear port

5. bottom right port to master cylinder front port

You'll also need to clear the code once your vehicle is working again.

Hope this helps someone else!

The gap is showing on the left side of the rear bushing in the pic:

Can anyone please tell me how to wire the 3rd brake Light and the dome light? 

84565195

those parts number the dealer gave me for my vehicle that are the right part numbers for the mirrors.

I find other part numbers for used mirrors though that are 23180074. What is the correct part number and is there a way to cross them? 

Thanks in advance for the help!

at my wits end. 

Ok, so I have done many brakes in the past but this has me stumped. I put new calipers rotors and pads all the way around on the truck and have bled the brakes like 6 times. twice with a helper and 4 times with a bottle. All times the fluid comes out with no air but it still goes to the floor when its turned on. A small amount of push back is noticed after pumping a few times while the truck is off. But as soon as I turn it on and push its nothing. I have read about there possibly being air in the ABS module and am looking for how to bleed that with just one person and have it actually work. The master cylinder is and has been filled throughout and never dropper too low. I placed all the new parts and puller the hose off the old calipers and attached it to the new ones quickly replacing the copper washers. I just cant figure out what could be happening, any help would be appreciated.