Rumor is GM may introduce new medium duty models with the 2029 Silverado HD's.  The trucks will likely be produced by GM without a partner.  

2015 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 gas..

Purchased this used truck a few months ago and noticed at idle the oil pressure was pretty low, around 10-12 PSI.  I finally changed the oil with 5w-30 dexos and wix filter, after a few hundred miles, i'm getting Engine oil pressure sensor problem (P0521).   I just ordered a new sensor, it will be here in a few days... i'll replace it and remove the screen, hopefully that's all it is, since this is the cheaper/easier, i figured this was a good place to start.

TLDR

My question is, do these engines still have the same issues as the older 5.3's and the o-ring on the oil pickup?  OR, are spun cam bearings more common?

What are your thoughts?  

FWIW, the truck shows 117k miles, but the engine block is orange, to me this indicates  its been replaced.

any help is appreciated!

Had an issue with our 2017 Silverado 3500 HD recently pulling a fifth wheel trailer. Purchased a new trailer and getting intermittent “check trailer connection” display. When display is on, no trailer brake! Never had an issue with our old fifth wheel or our dump trailer. Checked new trailer brake wiring front to back (it has an anti lock braking system), soldered all the connections for power and ground, still have had an issue.  Replaced the ITBC module. My question is does it need to be programmed.  I have heard no and yes!!

Thank You

Many of you likely are aware of a feature on many older luxury cars like Cadillac and Lincoln where when you activate the turn signal a small light comes on on that side to illuminate the area adjacent to the vehicle. I replicated this on my truck using some small off road lights mounted at the A-pillar near the hood hinge, this is a popular location for off-road lights or ditch lights. I used the turn signal wires going to the BCM from the signal stalk, when activated they provide a ground to the BCM which then pulses the appropriate light circuits. I used that same ground signal to trigger a relay to power each respective light. Left signal turns the left light on and same for the right while avoiding the pulsing of the actual turn signal circuit. 

There are plenty of aftermarket mounts, but I was able to use an existing hole at the top of the fender. If you pull the plastic cover off where the antennae mounts you will find the same hole on the back side of the fender, directly behind the antennae post. A u-nut, small metal bracket to attach the light to was all that was necessary. 

The lights function well for my purposes, work well. If/when I do add some proper off-road lights I would likely mount them on the front of the truck vs. where these are mounted because my truck is white and the glare reflection off the hood would be problematic to use as an additional high beam location. 

The bottom line is the truck rides too rough for my needs. Comparing the truck to all the others I've driven it is significantly more uncomfortable; mostly 1/2 ton trucks, but a few 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks.

For reference the best ride and my target for comfort was my 2015 GMC Sierra, crew cab, short bed, 1/2

ton, 4x4, Z-71 with Bilstein 4600 shocks, Sulastic shackles, 20" BFG All-Terrain KO2's in factory size. This truck was exceptionally comfortable, comparable to some of my Cadillacs, albeit with too much motion while towing (I wish I put the 5100 shocks on). 

This truck is only tolerable on the smoothest of roads, annoying on most and uncomfortable on rough.

There are two competing systems to make the ride more comfortable I need to remove spring rate and the only option without modifications is lowering air in the bags. This allows the truck to hit the air bag bump stops and is VERY harsh, to resolve this air has to be added to prevent bottoming out but the spring rate goes up and ends up harsh anyways so that there is no middle ground to be had that results in a comfortable ride. If you are loading 5000 lbs in the bed of the truck a compromise might exist; unladen it is impossible.

Prior to starting I typically ran with only 5 PSI in the bags, as a recommended minimum and to avoid increasing the effective spring rate unnecessarily. This still relied on the trucks springs which of course are rated very high and occasionally still bottomed out on the air bags. 

I decided to try to lessen the spring rate more and use the air bags to make up the difference by removing some leaves from the spring pack. I removed the two bottom springs, the bottom one typically described as an overload and the one above it. This required removing the axle U-bolts and the bolt through the center of the spring pack. I ended up replacing this bolt with shorter ones (a regular grade 8 with the head rounded off to slip in the locating pin on the axle). I reused the U-bolts, there was just enough threads on them to take up the now shorter spring pack.

This effectively lowered the truck 1-2" (the thickness of the removed leaves) and exacerbated the bottoming out problem. With the clearance between the airbag mounts now less by the same amount the truck was riding on the bump stops inside the air bags. An additional piece of information - the truck is nowhere near contacting the spring perches for the factory overloads on top of the spring pack. In other words, I don't think a condition would ever have existed where the overload springs are engaged before hitting the air bag bump stops. Well, that's stupid.

I ended up putting about 40 PSI in the bags at this point to get the truck up off their bump stops, which worked, but defeated the purpose of taking out the extra leaves, the added air pressure raised the spring rate back up to an uncomfortable level. I needed to increase the distance between the air bag mounts (bump stops) so that I don't need so much air pressure to lift the truck off them. 

I added some cheap lift blocks from Amazon to mount under the (shorter) spring pack to get back closer to original ride height and increase distance between the air bag mounts.

At this point, with about 10 PSI in the air bags the truck was riding far more comfortable. I could stop here and manually add air into the bags when the truck is loaded. Since I have a robust on-board air system I decided to go a step further. Since I am relying more on the airbags to be a more integral part of the suspension load capacity, I added a height control valve similar to Haldex type CR, mounted above the rear axle with a linkage to the axle and plumbed it accordingly. Add weight to the truck, the linkage activates the valve letting air from the on-board air system into the air bags, raising the truck back up. The converse is true, remove weight, leakage activates an air release and the truck lowers to its original state. I am using the "10 PSI ride height" to determine the neutral position on the valve.

I have some final clean up and fine tuning to do on the system. I'll be adding a pressure gauge to monitor air pressure in the bags and cleaning up some fittings that I don't like. 

The goal of improving the ride comfort was a HUGE SUCCESS!

In hindsight the airbags were probably the biggest culprit, there is no way you could install them and maintain the original amount of suspension travel. If you are trying to decide if adding them is a good idea - don't. Also, the lift block kit I bought, I was able to use the block, but the U-Bolts wouldn't fit over the spring pack, they were too narrow.

Lastly, no need for "you shouldn't have bought a heavy duty truck..." I bought my truck to serve ALL my needs, towing large trailers AND riding comfortably. I could get used to the ride but my family matters too and they complained a lot. 

I don't think the new MDT's can be ordered with a bed from the factory, at least not a pickup bed? I saw a current gen 5500 the other day, crew cab, black, long bed, and I just about peed... it was beautiful.

I know the drain & fill bolts are 24 ft-lb. and I've found different torque numbers for the bolts on the rear cover. Anyone have the torque specs on these bolts? TIA!

The guage won’t work and it is not, or not all the time, pumping fuel from the rear tank to the front. 
 

This truck pulls a lot so it’s usually getting 5-5-5 mpg and 100 mile range with no fuel gauge is just not acceptable. 
 

The 40 gallon tank on its own with a working fuel gauge would be plenty acceptable.  
 

Truck has 14K (yeah 14) and is in new condition otherwise.  

Truck has 108,000 miles now. It has towed a 12,000lb 5th wheel for most of its life. I just recently started noticing sometimes the truck wouldnt shift past 4th and I had a stored p0741 code. I dropped the pan and didnt find any metal. Im dropping the trans and Im going to overhaul it with new frictions, a transgo tow/pro kit and a new converter. Im looking for recommendations on a billet converter thats good for towing. I was leaning towards a circleD 300mm 1800-2000 stall triple disk or a Florida Converters billet triple (their single disk does not have a flanged hub.) I'm concerned the triple disk lock up will be too strong, or some crazy aftermarket tuning is necessary. Id like to not mess with tuning. I definitely don't want to put a stock converter back in it. Has anyone replaced their torque converter with a billet one? Did you choose single or triple disk? What brand did you go with? Was any aftermarket transmission tuning necessary?

I've read about this issue in a few threads and places but I cant seem to find whats happening to me exactly.

I recently had my two REAR sensors go blank and the dash light pop up (The fronts read the psi) I was in need of new tires so I bought a set of 2019 GMC Denali wheels and separate tires and when to Les Schwab. They told me that the tires sensors in the GMC wheels were good and would work for my Silverado. Great! They called me a while afterwards saying they can not get the sensors to learn my truck. So they got me new ones and installed them with my new tires onto the GMC rims and then called back, saying they can not get those to learn my truck either. We went through all the re-learning steps and whatnot with their tool/computer. Nothing. 

The front wheels are reading but not the rear. Same as my issue before all the tire swapping....

This points to me that it could be a module issue whereas its not reading the rear two sensors? If they were not able to be learnt or compatible between the 315 and 433 freq's then NONE of them would read...  right? 

Anyone had a similar issue and know of a direction I should go before purchasing a re-learn tool myself?

I have a 2017 Denali 3500HD with "loose" steering.  I don't usually give my resume' but I think it is relative to this subject.  For 12 years I was a professional test driver at a major competitor to GM.  I worked in the suspension development group at a proving ground testing and tuning shocks, spring rates, stabilizer bars, tires, etc.  My job was to dial in just the right amount of comfort vs handling vs steering response and feel.  Why is this important?  Because I am 100% confident I know what is causing my "loose" steering.  The problem is the digital steering assist tuning.   Although there is a documented issue with some steering gear boxes,  the "loose" steering in my vehicle is not from any mechanical problems with the gear box.  Please understand that I did not say no one has a gear box problem.  I am simple saying that GM has more than 1 issue due to poor steering feel.  

The problem with my truck has nothing to do with anything being "loose".  Here is the proof.  At all speeds below 45 mph the steering feels fine.  At speeds above 75 mph the steering feels fine.  If something was loose or wrong with my gear box or other mechanical steering component the problem would not magically go away below 45 mph and above 75mph.  In fact, with almost any kind on mechanical "loose" steering component the problem would be perceived as worse with most increases in speed.  

For folks with "loose" steering try this.  Pick a long straight level road.  Drive straight at 40 mph with the steering wheel straight.  Concentrate on the amount of effort (torque) it takes to turn the wheel 1 degree, 2 degrees, 3 degrees etc up to 10 degrees.  These are small movements of the wheel but you feel immediate effort required to turn the wheel these small amounts at speeds below 45 mph.  At 1 and 2 degrees of steering wheel movement there is effort but little to no vehicle response or yaw.  This effort is a "feedback" (although artificial and in the suspension tuning world effort is not necessarily feedback but for the sack of keeping it simple let's just go with that) to the driver about what is happening to the steering system and vehicle.  Now try this same procedure at 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75 mph. Does the effort required to move the steering wheel these small amounts start to increase at 74, 75, 76, 77 mph?  If so, you have a poorly tuned digital assist system.   In my vehicle the worst speeds are 60-70 mph.  At these speed the initial 0-5 degrees of steering wheel movement require almost zero effort.  The digital steering is "over boosting" the required assist needed.  At speeds above 75 mph, my vehicle "magically" fixes itself and the effort required to move the steering wheel increases dramatically.  

I have read through all 39 pages of posts.  Some folks have described the exact problem I have.  "Loose steering" between 45-75mph.  Another fact is many have complained that their steering is no better after GM replaced multiple steering components including the gear box.  GM needs to assign an engineer to retune the digital assist.  I volunteer to help.  I just need access to the ability to change the power steering assist levels through the digital steering.  So GM if your reading this just look me up and I will help.  

I hope this helps others to identify their real steering problems.  I also hope GM fixes this with a simply retune of the digital assist parameters.  

Mike P.

Has anyone converted the center console to the front “bench” seat?

I would like to make the conversion but am wondering what’s involved and are the parts just a bolt on?

Any link to anyone that has done it too would be appreciated.  

Thanks 

Hi I just received gm remote start part# 22997089

And are curious where I'm supposed to connect the green wire at.

I want to get all this done so that when I take it to the dealer all they need to do is turn it on. I assumed the truck was wired for it already seeing the plug near the hood latch but guess not. I'm assuming it's supposed to go-to the bcm but I have no idea where that is and what pin slot.

Thank you.

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Anyway... I can't find my "Stock Keys" that came with the truck. Is there a place I can order the stock keys?

THANKS!

can anybody tell me the size holes I need to drill out for my bed and what are the torque specs for bolting it to the frame I think all 5 holes are the same size but I could be wrong