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Don't settle for anything less.

 

Hey everyone, Tiffany here with Soler Performance. For those who aren't familiar with us, we're an American based company located in Daphne, AL, specializing in the design and manufacturing of premium aftermarket auto-parts. We focus on throttle control systems and modifications that make your vehicle come to life with faster response and more engaging driving. 

Our modified throttle bodies and controllers are engineered to deliver:

• Optimized Performance: Increased airflow and precision calibration for smoother, more responsive acceleration.
• Plug-andPlay Installation: Fits factory mounting, compatible with stock systems, and maintains warranty saftey.
• Tailored for GM Trucks: Designed specifically for 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra 1500 5.3L and 6.2L platforms.

Owners report a noticeable improvement in pedal feel and throttle response, making daily driving, towing, or spirited acceleration more satisfying. 

If you're looking for a direct upgrade to elevate your truck's performance, send a message. We're happy to help you select the right setup for your vehicle. 
 

Forum Discount Code: TIFF5OFF

RPO List using my VIN and I now see what I thought was a tire problem is actually suspension.  The current suspension is completely stock, no lift or level. 

Unless I am on smooth asphalt this is the worst riding truck I have ever owned. (including 3/4 and 1 Tons)

So from what I have been able to research on the Z60 option, The front stabilizer bar is a little bigger.  Either both the Front and Rear Shocks are different or maybe just the fronts, not completely sure.  And the big mystery is the Strut Springs and Rear Leaf Springs?  Any Ideas on the Spring differences?

I don't think the sway bar really makes a noticeable difference in ride harshness on the street.  I think different Shocks will help but I think I may have to change the springs out too. 

I would like to convert the truck to Z83 Springs and Shocks.  I believe even Z71 suspension without the Ranchos would be an improvement.

I know the obvious answer is to go to the Dealer and I agree.  But I am trying to avoid that mainly for cost.

I'm going to get under the truck and get some spring part #'s and post them next.  At least the Rear Leafs

GM 2012 Press Release

 Sierra is offered with five suspension systems, each tailored to suit specific driving requirements:

Z83 – Delivers a solid, smooth ride with monotube front shocks and twin-tube rear shocks

Z85 – Designed for enhanced handling and trailer towing, with monotube front and rear shocks

Z71 – Delivers enhanced off-road capability; features specific monotube front and rear shocks

Z60 – Designed for maximum street performance and offered with 20-inch wheels, as well as monotube front and rear shocks

NHT – Designed for maximum towing capacity; it includes monotube rear shocks, 17-inch wheels and off-road tires, and high-capacity rear springs.

Have a little time to install the tail gate light bar, replaced the bed light bulbs with led and install footwell led light..

Bed light replaced with this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111217352865?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1381wt_1181

They are super bright..

Tailgate led bar with reverse: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400624564281?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2571wt_1155

Not too bad for the price.

footwell led,1 led per area : http://www.oznium.com/prewired-superflux

They are super bright.

driverside:

Passenger:

Rear :

Enjoy!

Also, how many of you guys bought one of these and still had lifter issues vs you  just driving the truck in V4/V8 mode and had lifter issues?  
 

I’m trying to prolong the life of my truck. Is a ‘14 and just hit 88,000 miles today 

Due to the overwhelming interest in folks wanting to upgrade their mirrors, I wanted to start this thread, hopefully, with all the information pertaining to the process of upgrading your mirrors, the different mirror types, the GM supported upgrade path, the non-GM supported upgrade path, what all is involved, and any known issues.

I receive about 15-20 PMs daily around this upgrade. I will try to respond to all as I am able to. Please read through this entire 1st post in its entirety as I hope it answers all your questions. I also hope that this thread is your “one-stop shop” for all questions surrounding this upgrade.

I have spent MANY months (since June 2016) trying to understand these mirrors and what all is involved to make the upgrade successful. Like many of you reading this thread, you have probably spent countless hours researching online, reading threads upon threads, and watching YouTube videos for some info and guidance. For those that have tried this upgrade on your own, you have probably ended up with the same results of something not working correctly, which ultimately landed you back here on the Forum.

I have helped numerous members here achieve the same upgrade desires with success. This started out with me wanting to upgrade the standard DL8 Mirrors on my 2016 Silverado, 1500, LT, CCSB, 5.3L Gas Truck. I have helped members with Standard DL8 Mirrors upgrade to DL3 Mirrors as well as members wanting to upgrade to Towing Mirrors.

So, let’s get started…

Mirror Types:

DE2 Mirrors - These are the basic mirrors found on W/T Trucks. They do not have power anything. They are manual adjust, manual fold, etc.

DL8 Mirrors – These are the most common mirrors found on LT/SLE trucks and are the next level from DE2 Mirrors. DL8 Mirrors are Heated, Power Adjust, and Manual Fold. If your truck has 1LT/2LT options, this will most likely be the same mirror.

DL3 Mirrors – These are mirrors are the “Premium” version to the DL8 Mirrors that most folks are wanting to upgrade to. These mirrors are typically found on your higher trim LTZ/High Country and SLT/Denali trucks. These mirrors are: Heated, Power Adjust, Power Fold, Turn Signal, Puddle Lamps, and Auto Dim (Driver’s Side).

Towing Mirrors – These mirrors are the larger mirrors designed to help with towing. These mirrors can be found as options in some 2500/3500 Heavy Duty Trucks. They come in (2) main flavors.

• DPN – These are Manually Folding, Manually Extending, Heated, Turn Signal, Cargo (also referred to as Courtesy Lamps), and Clearance Lamps (also referred to as Park/Running Lamps)
• DQS – These are essentially the same as DPN except they are Power Folding and supports Mirror Memory if your truck has this feature.

Aftermarket Towing Mirrors – There are TONS of aftermarket options out there. The result should be the same (for the most part) on the upgrade. The way that manufactures “pin” their connectors, they typically pin them the same as the GM - OEM ones. Watch out for any Manufacture that says they have the “option” of adding a separate harness or connector for added functionality. If it’s not already in the connector, I would stay away from those or contact me for mirror connector customization.

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Note: RPO Code - K40 Option (Exhaust Brake) for Diesel Trucks. If you have a Diesel Truck, you will NEED to get the appropriate DL3, DPN, DQS Mirror WITH the K40 Option. This is basically a temperature sensor on the passenger side mirror. Without this, you will get a Check Engine Light (CEL) error come on with an “Ambient Temperature” message on your DIC (Driver Information Center). This is NOT an issue with Gas Trucks. You can install a passenger mirror with the temperature sensor on a gas truck with no issue (I am using a K40 optioned DL3 Mirror on my truck).

Here is a video I put together on the entire process. This video covers the following:

• Removing the Door Panel
• Removing the Door Harness
• Installing the Power Fold Switch

[/url]GM Supported Upgrade Path – Upgrade DL8 or DL3 Mirrors to Towing Mirrors:

• There is a GM Supported Upgrade path for those that have DL8 or DL3 Mirrors that want to upgrade to Towing Mirrors.
• Reference the “Vehicle Acceptability for Retrofit” for details – Document ID# 4174686. Can also be found here. https://www.dropbox.com/s/q4eldhgg2x8i10q/Camper%20Mirrors%20-%2023371780.pdf?dl=0
• If you have questions on what RPO Codes your truck has, please check your glove box for details.
• There are possible BCM and/or Memory Module Calibrations required that can only be done at the Dealer. Please check with your dealer on the upgrade and these calibrations. I do not know what these calibrations actually do. They seem to be the most required on trucks with the A45 RPO (Seat Memory) code. So this applies mainly to LTZ/High Country, SLT/Denali trucks wanting to upgrade to Towing Mirrors. If you are an LT/SLE trim, you shouldn’t need any BCM calibration. You certainly won’t need a memory module calibration, because an LT/SLE doesn’t have Seat Memory and therefore, won’t have a Memory Module.
• For those that require the RZY Harness – Part # 23387133. Installation instructions can be found here. https://www.dropbox.com/s/pz2y2o9kj02g66p/RZY%20Installation%20Instructions.pdf?dl=0
• Installation of the RZY Harness is a very detailed/technical process that requires you to add the missing “pins” to the driver and passenger door hinge connectors (on the body side). It also involves landing the other end of these missing circuits into the BCM (for the turn signals), X61A Junction Box (for the Cargo lamp), and under the hood (through the firewall) into the X50A Fuse Block (for the Park Lamps). This is MOST common on 2014 Trucks and some early 2015 Trucks. You can also confirm this by removing the X500/X600 Door Connector like in the photos below. If you are missing pins, be prepared for some work ahead of you.

If you do need the RZY Harness, I created a "How To" Installation Video here:

Here is an additional video showing the detail of the RZY Harness.

Non-GM Supported Upgrade Path – Upgrade DL8 Mirrors to DL3 Mirrors.

• For those that have DL8 Mirrors, there is NO - GM Supported upgrade path to upgrade DL8 to DL3 Mirrors. This is a custom application that requires either: A custom DL8 Harness (made by me), a DIY KIT (also made by me) to add the wires yourself, or you can hardwire this yourself using your own methods. Your existing DL8 Harnesses will NOT be pinned for the Turn Signal, Puddle Lamps, Ground, and Auto Dim (Driver’s Side) circuits. I WILL support you in any direction you end up going with.
• If you try to install the DL3 Harness with your DL3 Mirrors, you will have turn signals, puddle lamps, and heat working. You will lose all functionality of the passenger side mirror and some adjust functionality of the driver side mirror. This is due to the DL3 content differences with how these functions are achieved and based on the A45 Seat Memory option.
• If you have a Gas Truck, you can use either DL3 Mirror options with or without the K40 (Exhaust Brake) Temperature Sensor.
• To achieve Power Fold on your DL3 Mirrors, you will need a new Driver’s Side - Mirror Adjust Switch which has the Power Folding option. Part # 23154702 has been the most common part #. This part is a simple drop in and swap out of your existing Mirror Adjust Switch. No other harness modification required to achieve Power Folding.
• Power Fold options can be added to either the DL3 Mirror upgrade or the Towing Mirror upgrade.
• Also, there are two variations of the Power Fold Switch - Part # 23154702 and Part # 2348841. As you compare the photos, you’ll notice that the connector portions are keyed DIFFERENTLY. One is symmetrical and the other isn’t. Please do NOT force your connector if you feel resistance. If it doesn’t fit, there is a reason why. If you force the connector (which some people have), you will blow a fuse.

• For Reverse Tilt (mirrors automatically tilt down when in reverse) and Key Fob Fold/Unfold (ability to fold/unfold mirrors with Key Fob) – These features are supported by the BCM/DIC Options and are not supported in this upgrade. These features are found in the higher trim LTZ/High Country and SLT/Denali models.
• Note: I am currently testing an aftermarket mirror fold module. If you would like information on that, here is a thread I created for that. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/196138-2016-silverado-lt-fold-your-dl3-mirrors-with-your-fob-like-an-ltz/

2014 – Known Issue:

• On 2014 Trucks, there is a known issue where the Puddle Lamp Circuit doesn’t supply the needed 12 Volts to the mirrors to power the Puddle Lamp. When measured, there is only 2.8 Volts being sent by the BCM. This results in a dim puddle lamp. A workaround for this is to perform a “diode mod” from the Dome Lamp Circuit to the Puddle Lamp Circuit. Diode needed is 1N4004.
• If applicable, I will include a diode for free when you buy my Custom DL8 Harness.
• Puddle Lamp Diode mod instructions can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ehhoz7vtq8j7g87/Puddle%20Lamp%20Diode%20Mod.pdf?dl=0

WT/LS – Trim Owners:

• I had the opportunity to work with a few members' truck who were WT, Trims.  Trucks had the convenience package. This package has power windows, power mirrors, and power door locks.
• I can confirm that you can upgrade to DL3/DPN/DQS (or most any other mirror) IF you have power adjust mirrors.  I was also able to help one with manual adjust mirrors

Custom Plug and Play Harnesses – $285 Shipped to (50 US States - for Canada, please add $47.95)

• I offer a Plug and Play harness for either the DL3 Mirror upgrade or the Towing Mirror Upgrade.
• Custom Harness Set (Driver and Passenger) is $285 Shipped via USPS Priority Mail, Canada - please add $47.95
• Each harness is carefully unwrapped, modified, and built like factory using the same gauge wiring and terminals/pins as GM, and rewrapped using automotive harness tape.
• Auto Dim (Driver’s Side) circuits are added to the Driver’s Side Harness for use on DL3 Mirrors. In the event, you add an Auto Dim Rear View Mirror later, your Driver’s Side Door harness will be already pinned appropriately to support the upgrade.
• I offer a $100 Core Refund when you send your stock harnesses back to me.
• Support by me through the entire upgrade process until you have achieved the desired the result.
• Full Refund (minus shipping) if my custom harnesses don't work. 

  

Custom DIY Kit – $65 Shipped (Ships First Class Mail with Tracking - for Canada, please add $10)

• For those that want to perform this upgrade on your own, I offer a DIY Kit.
• Kit is $65 Shipped, ships First Class Mail with Tracking.  $70 Shipped to Canada
• This kit will have the pre-terminated wires with the pins crimped according to the application.
• Instructions created by me, detailing how to perform the upgrade process along with wiring diagrams for Driver/Passenger sides and where to land the wires.
• You would be responsible to installing the wires/circuits into your existing harnesses.
• Disclaimer: You are performing this work at your own risk.

I will also provide you with ANY information regarding this upgrade even you don't buy from me. My goal is to help everyone achieve their mirror upgrade goals.

If you decide to move forward with ANY purchase or if you have additional questions, please let me know. It is helpful to know all the details of your truck to provide the best possible solution.

For example:

2016 Silverado, LT, 1500, Crew Cab, 5.3L Gas.

Thanks, everyone! Hope to help as many people as I can to achieve this upgrade!

Please enjoy this Time Lapse Video to get an idea of what is involved with the customization of the harness. Each set takes about 1hr to modify, plus another hour test. So a completed set is roughly 3 hrs to build and test.

How to remove the DL8/DL3 Mirror Caps.

How to remove Tow Mirror Caps.

Will update after I get it and set things up.

https://www.holley.com/products/tuners_and_programmers/diablosport_predator_x/parts/DS-MFD

GM OEM:
19303664 - Genuine GM Parts

Bushwacker:
Bushwacker Extend A Fender Flares 40100-02 | RealTruck

PSI:
2014 GMC Sierra 1500 Extension Style Smooth Fender Flares

I am less concerned with the additional width and more looking for the vertical coverage. I know I will need to remove the existing mud flaps for any of these.

Thanks for any opinons.

My question is if use the wiring harness from the 2500 will the power fold mirrors work with no additional wiring performed. 

Has anyone gone through this,any recommendations?

Thanks 

into a 2016 truck , All Plug & Play  . Figured I would share it for those who might want

to do the Retrofit ...

Start watching video at 1:16 .

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/219763-std-coil-spring-options/

Here are GM's instructions

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 1-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 2-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 1-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 2-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 1-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 2-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 1-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 2-2.pdf

Here is what I did.

After looking at what others have done and taking my time thinking this problem over I decided to install filter next to the windshield washer fluid reservoir/tank. This location is very convenient for several reasons: lots of room, filter changes will be easy, I can keep an eye on the leaks, easy to tell if filter and tubing are getting hot (meaning ATF is flowing), very little new plumbing, and I can easily convert it back to stock because of no permanent modifications.

Then I had to figure out for sure witch way fluid flows through the coolers. What got me confused is the fact that manual shows fluid comes out of the top port and goes back in through the bottom. But a member on here did an external filter set up similar to mine and he swore that the flow is in revers direction from what book says. He even started his truck to verify for sure.

FL335i I'm not out to bash you, I'm simply pointing out that your post had me all jacked up and I hope you don't see it as an attack on you.

Here is a link to that post:

So I decided to verify on my own.

Took the thermostat off the transmission housing. Put it up in the vise and ran air through it to see just what the heck is going on. When thermostat housing is cold, air would  come in through the top port ( transmission side ) and out of the two bottom ones ( cooler port and transmission port). No air out of the top cooler port. Heated up the thermostat housing and flow changed. Air comes in through the top transmission side port and out the top cooler side port. No air out of the two bottom ports.

I attaches two horrible hand drawings to hopefully help you understand what I'm blabbering on about.

This would also explain why member on here got turned around and thought that book was showing a wrong direction of flow. When transmission is cold and thermostat is closed, taking off one of the cooler lines will make it appear that fluid is moving in the opposite direction from what manual says.

Again, hope my chicken scratch drawings will make sense.

Now with all that out of the way I used Derale 130005 remote filter mounting kit. Fabricated a bracket to hold the filter high enough to fit Fram #3614 size filters and give plenty of room during the filter change. Used 1/8 inch think by 3/4 inch wide piece of hot rolled that Lowe"s sells. If I remember right bottom leg is 6 inches long, vertical is 6 inches tall and housing mounting flange is 2 and 3/4 inches wide. My horrible welds are just that, horrible, but should be ok to hold up that fram. In the words of AvE " Grinder and paint, make me the welder I an't."

Now for pluming I decided to stick with GM original transmission push connect 3/8 inch transmission line. This is an expensive way to go about it because I had to purchase a hydraulic press/dies in order to form 3/8 GM transmission connection. Its a Mastercool 72485 flaring tool set. If you do buy one make sure it has GM transmission line forming die set. There is a cheaper version of this kit # 72475 that does not have a needed die set. Just a heads up.

I used cheap tube bender from Lowe's, holly crap, its difficult to make a proper bend using that POS. Now I know its a poor craftsman that blames his tools, I'm just letting you know to be ready to redo lines several times if you use that style of bender.

Also you will need two (2) 3/8 inch NPT to 3/8 GM transmission line fitting/adapter to go into the filter housing. I used Doorman 800-606, got it on Amazon. Local parts stores sell them too.

Line I bought at Advance auto parts part number #CN-660, worked great. Those are 3/8 inch OD and are 5 feet long. I went through two of them. If you know what you doing one is plenty. Also don't use the thick stainless tubing Amazon sells. It wont form correct in the die. Plus its a major pain to bend using Lowe's bender. Ask me how I know.

In the above picture I took tube number 14 out and hooked up mine as shown.

Keep the old tube just in case.

Started up and what you know, no leaks, great, so far. Let the truck warm up and keep looking over all the new connections, check under the truck where i have been dicking with thermostat, all good. Take off down the road. Temp outside is ~30 degrees, drove for 10 miles, pull over to check on the connections and look for leaks. Everything looks great, however lines are cold and filter is cold too. I figured no big deal sense transmission is only at 135 degrees at this point and thermostat is still closed. It took transmission about 20 miles to come up to ~185 degrees. Drove around for 5 miles after it warmed up to make sure let all the lines fill up, let the fluid circulate and if there is any leaks let them drip to be easier to spot. Pull in the parking lot, open the hood, lines are hot, filter is hot, everything looks dry and thermostat is dry too. Headed back to the house, check it all over again, looks great.

So that is how I did an external filter on 6L80. I'm leaving that orange Fram until next oil change , which is in~3000 miles. Reason for short run is because I want to cut this filter open asap for my own curiosity and didn't want to waste an Fram ultra on such a short run. Then it will be a Fram ultra and probably run it for two years, which is about ~10000 miles on this truck. Will also do cut it open as well.

UPDATE 6-16-2018 44,685 miles on the truck. Filter in use sense 12-30-2018 39,785 miles. 4900 miles exactly. I did an oil change, tire rotations and figured might as well change out the transmission filter just because I really wanted to see how it looked.

Looks like the internal filter is just a rock catcher, look at the size of those particles on the anti drain back valve:

There was a nice build up of small/fine particles all on the inside of the filter body, just like the crap on inside of the transmission pan:

Filter itself looked great and did a fine job. I installed same orange can Fram and will run it until this time next year. I decided not to drop the pan this time because transmission only has 7200 miles sense last fluid change  I'll drop the pan next year and we will see how well this set up does. If there is same buildup on the inside of the pan then this is a useless exercise.

If any of you want a specific picture of the filter media let me know. I didn't bother with it because it looked pretty good and I really couldn't see anything out of the ordinary.