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  2. Does anyone have this supposed TSB for the spoiler bolts? I have the one for the window, but didn’t know one existed for bolts on our trucks.
  3. Or sell your current truck on Craigslist and get pre-approved by a bank for a loan for the "new" truck. The last time I financed a truck I went to my local bank that was offering good rates and got pre-approved for the maximum I would need for a new truck. When I found the truck I wanted to buy I paid a deposit by check to hold it and it took two business days to get a bank check for the amount of the truck. My deposit check was returned to me once they had the bank's check. Buying a used truck from a dealer and taking their offer on your trade-in costs you at least $3,000 and probably more. I work to hard for my money to give it away like that to save a little bit of my time and some inconvenience. $3,000 takes $5,000 in gross income to get and to me that is a significant amount of money to throw away. I would sooner give the money to the Salvation Army than to a car dealership.
  4. With preventive maintenance schedules offering 12-18% cost savings over reactive maintenance, and predictive schedules another 8-12%, why would anyone not be proactive if costs savings and longevity are the ultimate goals? I’m thoroughly satisfied with the build quality of my ‘16. Definitely better than the “plastic fantastic” ‘99 Sierra Z71 that was the last full size GM Truck I’d owned, and better than the F150 that preceded it. My father also bought a ‘16, a Colorado CCLB Z71, brand new to replace the last vehicle he’d bought new, an ‘86 Mitsubishi Mighty Max. With 345k on it, it still purred like a kitten, but the years of hauling the boat in and out of salt water had taken its toll and he finally sold it when the cab mounts came though the floor and the cab dropped, but it still drove fine on only it’s second clutch, which had 200k on it. These trucks will go the distance if you let them, IMO.
  5. Ok. That’s what my mechanic told me, so I’m going with his recommendation. Please continue to do as you wish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I have not experienced any squeaks or clunks in my 2500HD nor have I used Fluid Film on the truck. If you think the Fluid Film is the cause of the squeaks, take the truck to a magic wand type car wash and clean the springs and bushings using soap with high pressure spray. Dirt and Fluid Film residue should wash off. Oily substances like Fluid Film are dirt magnets. You may have salt and road grit build-up where it's not intended and it could be creating your problem.
  7. Today I was driving my 05 Silverado 5.3l and I was about to exit off the highway. My Wife and I heard this kind of shuttering sound coming from the engine. When I came up to the traffic light I could hear the engine ticking and tappping like it was low on oil. When I came to a complete stop the engine wanted to die. I had to put it in neutral and give it gas to keep it idling. I noticed the oil pressure guage was below 40 and fluctuating a lot which is not normal for this truck. I checked the oil level and it shows full of oil. I let it set for at least 30 mins and checked the oil level again and it said it was full again. I started it back up and the oil guage is still reading below 40 and fluctuating at idle a lot. At idle it usually runs above 40 and more when driving. i don’t see any leaks. Any suggestions on what to look for?? Or what to test?
  8. I rotate the tires on all my cars and trucks every 5,000 miles and pay the extra amount to get a "lifetime" rotation and wheel balance when buying new tires. With brakes it is the ones in the front that do most of the work. If you do not have electric trailer brakes and a trailer brake controller or do not have them set properly then the truck is doing the braking and not the trailer brakes. I would guess that you have very little wear on your trailer's brakes. A sticking caliper will result in dragging and faster wear of the pads. I would expect that there would be some pulling experienced when driving and in particular when turning although power steering makes this more difficult to detect. The pad with only 5% left has the sticking caliper. You can google on "sticking brake caliper symptoms" and get more information. In the past with a Chevy Tahoe the rotors had to be replaced at 32,000 miles and that was with no towing and mostly freeway driving. I bought aftermarket rotors and calipers and had them installed by a local shop and the total cost was no more than going with the OEM parts and having the dealer do the work. I drove the truck for another 140,000 miles and when I sold it the rotors and calipoers and pads were in great shape. Dealers make most of their profits from parts and service and so you can get aftermarket parts that are much better than the OEM parts and not pay a dime more.
  9. Looks awesome! I always remember “ Victory Red “ as the colour name. Is that it . .? Used to see tonnes of trucks, Chevy’s and GMC’s in the 1990-1998 model year era. Always looked good. Yours is no exception.....
  10. I finished my 200 mile round trip this morning. No problems at all, truck is strong. On a lighter side, my girls absolutely love this rig and we're super excited about the new baby hens 4 bared rocks 2 australoprs 3 cochins Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  11. A bit more than average on the insecure side aren’t ya! The thread is about benefits of either 5.3 or 6.2 and that’s off the lot. Why would anyone want to EVER invest in a supercharger for a 5.3 when you can get soooooo much more out of supercharging a 6.2. Nice try, go back into the crack you came out of [emoji23] [emoji13] [emoji38] Looks like this thread is in need of exterminating..... Be safe and Good luck to all, Sent from Above
  12. I just picked up nine hens [emoji4] Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  13. That is a complete waste of money. Octane is nothing more than a measure of the fuel resistance to pre-ignition or "knock". A higher compression engine will produce more power but it is also more prone to pre-ignition and so unless the higher octane gas is used the engine computer will ****** the spark to protect the engine and there will be less power produced and a drop in fuel economy. My SUV engine was engineered to run on 87 octane gas and if I put in a higher octane rated gas it accomplishes nothing other than to further enrich the oil companies and they do not need my help only the billions in federal tax subsidies that they already take. When I had a coupe with an engine that required 93 octane for best performance I would run a lower octane gas but my fuel economy dropped and so no real dollar savings. The gas at the pumps are coming from the same refineries and all that varies is the markup by the retailer at their pumps. Costco has the lowest markup and it is the same gas as that going to Arco or Chevron and every other gas station. Gas retailers want the public to think that their gasoline has magical additives that justify the much higher prices being charged but it is all a con game. I use gasbuddy to find the least expensive gas on my travels, but around town I do not drive 20 miles to save a few pennies at the pumps. Where you can have problems with gasoline quality is at some rural gas station that has had little business during the winter months and has a good deal of gasoline sitting in an underground tank. With the current pandemic it would be wise to avoid the small mom and pop stores that sell gas on the side.
  14. Does the classic still receive updates from Apple?
  15. Most people are unaware of how incredibly dirty diesel fuel is and the need to help it with additives. Diesel is cleaner in the USA than in Europe but their fuel has a higer cetane rating. Adding a cetane booster that also helps with the fuel lubricity and an injector cleaner is worthwhile though not needed for every tank of diesel burned. Lots of these additives are available and I go with the least expensive in a bottle the size that works with the 36 gallon fuel tank so I do not need to measure it out at the pumps. No reason to go with Amsoil for anything and the mediocre performance of Amsoil diesel motor oils makes me avoid all their products. Diesel is going to cause more problems during the winter in areas where all you can buy is biodiesel. There is still a problem with algae buildup in diesel and an additive will keep this from happening and avoid a very expensive repair job. A diesel fuel filter that removes 98.7% of the particles in a gallon of diesel fuel will allow 240,000 particle to pass through and hit the injectors at high speed. Also a 2-micron filter will allow particles up to 10 microns in size to pass through the filter media. And changing filters more often is actually detrimental as fuel filters, like air filters, are least effective when new and before any media loading has taken place. Diesel engines take a great deal longer than gas engines to reach their optimum operating temperature and so avoiding short trips of less than 30 minutes duration is best avoided.
  16. Sold Sent from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
  17. I think you nailed it. These are the guys in life who purchase the extended warranties, the same guys who have never turned a wrench a day in their lives, these guys are a dealers wet dream. Their truck will never see dirt a day in its life and they all drive 10 miles under the speed limit but yet they come on here to circle jerk about their "big 6.2's." Yet they will never get any of the benefit of having a 6.2 out of the vehicle but are over here with an "0-face" thinking of the raw-power of the 6.2... LMAO & GTFOH It's the same $hit with the guys with AT4's who are circle jerking about their off-road capabilities. The same guys who have Crew Cabs and think they are better because they paid more for them lol. The same guys with $hitty ass 6" Rough Country lifts, Chinese wheels, etc who think their roller skate @ss looking truck looks good and is some sort of mechanical marvel. FOH. I came on here from another platform and figured people would have knowledge to offer as I had never built out a half-ton. Don't get me wrong there are a few guys who know their stuff and who are actually doing cool stuff to their trucks, but for the overwhelming majority its just a bunch of guys who tuck in their t-shirts lubing each other up about stuff that they would get laughed out the building for elsewhere. You do realize that a 6.2 costs $1500 more than a 5.3 right? You are insinuating people couldn't afford an extra $5/mo on their payment. You guys are the biggest group of fanny pack wearing, posers I have ever had the privilege of interacting with in my life. You do realize that the 6.2 only puts out 65 more HP than the 5.3? LOL change my manifold, put on a CAI and give me a performance exhaust and my 5.3 would produce better on the dyno. Give me a supercharger and my 5.3 would blow your 6.2 away on the dyno. If they ever figure out how to crack the CPU, chip my 5.3 and it will $hit on your 6.2.
  18. I looked at Sumosprings for my 2500HD truck but then found that they only have a 2-year warranty. I went with SuperSprings instead that will outlast the truck. Best way I have found to improve the ride with an empty bed is to add a rear sway bar. After I added a Big Wig to my truck the wheel hop was reduced by more than 90% and this used to be a big deal when hitting a dip or bump while making a turn. The negative attribute of a sway bar where it transfers shocks from one wheel to the opposite one is a positive when one wheel on a solid axle vehicle hits a bump.
  19. I have 285/70/18 toyo muds on zero offset aftermarket wheels right now. I'm leveled and they only rub at full turn sometimes. I installed them on my factory +44 offset wheels when I first got them. I did level the front, but they wouldn't have rubbed if I left the front end stock. I'm almost positive. I have a 2015 2500.
  20. Diesel in my area sells for $1.25 more per gallon than regular gasoline at the pumps. I gain in driving range on a full tank of diesel with my 2500HD truck's 36 gallon fuel tank but by no stretch of the imagination do I save money any way you look at it. I have the 2500HD LML truck and I am fully aware of the much higher maintenance and service and repair costs for a diesel engine. A big problem with the GM 1500 trucks is that they are the only ones where one gets a very small 23 or 26 gallon fuel tank and there are no options for a larger gas tank from the factory or later from Titan or other aftermarket fuel tank manufacturers. Titan stopped making replacement gas tanks but does continue to offer replacement diesel fuel tanks. Ford F-150 option for 36 gal tank, Ram has a 33-gal tank option, and Toyota provides a 38-gallon on all their trucks. A diesel engine on a Ram 1500 with their optional 33-gallon fuel tank is currently the best truck. Ram also provides an option for an electronic locking rear differential but with GM and Toyota all one can get is the "anti-spin" rear differential which is really not LSD but rather "traction control" as has been found on cars for decades. The Ram Laramie with their off-road package or the Rebel are both available with the diesel engine but it is a $5,000 option. Paying an extra $5,000 for the diesel engine and twice as much for batteries and fuel filters and motor oil changes and 50% more for fuel at the pumps does not make this a rational choice when compared to getting the V-6 or one of the V-8 engines. For the Ram 1500 with the V-6 gas engine the max towing load is 7,460 lbs (with 3.92 gears), and for the V-6 diesel engine it goes up to 9,860 lbs, and with the V-8 the max is 11,410 lbs., and so the best engine for towing with a 1500 truck is the V-8 gas engine. The diesel V-6 engine is a win win for the manufactureres as they make more money on each truck they sell and they get greatly improved CAFE numbers. The customers pay for the much more expensive engines and the higher costs of maintaining the trucks and dealers make much more money servicing and repairing diesel pickups. Diesel only makes sense if one is getting a V-8 with a 2500 truck and going to be towing more than 10,000 lbs on a regular basis and actually needs the greater torque provided. Otherwise it is a purely emotional decision which is fine if you are honest with yourself about it and not trying to find a logical reason for getting the diesel V-6. Not unusual considering all the 4WD and lifted trucks on the road whose owners will never take them off the pavement but think they look cool.
  21. Sorry about that!! But you posted the pic which is really what I was also looking to post. Thanks!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Great tips! I guess I hit it lucky but will be sure to use the cardboard catcher next time! I am sure GM could come up with a much more user friendly design.
  23. Correct. Cargo lights won’t turn on but the camera does come on whilst driving. (In my 2018, but only when using a wire instead of a diode.) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Sometimes i have to open my phone, hit play on the phone and then it immediately recognizes it. No idea why. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Don’t know about the bolt in notches but when I did a welded in notch in my old S10, it was much stronger. Basically I change it from C-channel frame to full boxed frame just smaller. If you are unsure about the strength of the frame after the notch then don’t do it. Your safety is far more important than what the insurance will say. If you are pushing it back up with shackles or bags, you may not need it. He had a full flip kit at 6”.
  26. Today
  27. I have a 2018 GMC HD Denali with a Duramax. Great truck, except that I continue to have break controller issues. Now I’m out of warranty and it just went for the 4th time. The dealer back home in Canada has been replacing a module aboveboard spare tire. It also went on me while ion Florida and the dealership repaired although I’m not sure how. Just went today. Not while towing but within 30 minutes of having as carwash. The 30amp fuse under the dash is fine. How can I tell if its the module Or if it is the relay I hear so much about?
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