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You can second guess until your blue in the face...at the end of the day you already own the truck. Hook up and go, see what you find out. It's not like you bought the trailer without a truck and have to make a decision on gas vs diesel. You have the perfect situation on your hands. Your current truck is safely capable, is it comfortable? That's the question...only you can answer that, not us knuckleheads on the internet.

That’s fine. Just wondering why GM doesn’t sell the ZR2 uppers with the DSSV struts or even mention them?

Def need a higher angle BJ. Lotta companies make Heavy duty BJ's using moog's. Dirt King makes good quality ones, Icon has their delta joints in tube or billet. And I think Bilstein makes a BJ one as well as a few others. https://dirtking.com/collections/silverado/products/ball-joint-upper-control-arms-dk-636901

Well I would keep an eye on the lot of my favorite dealer in case a 3500 SRW Duramax with all the features you want becomes available. But... if you don't see anything that is a great deal or has every feature you want wait until you get the 5th wheel, tow it behind your current rig and see how you feel. Make sure to hook it up on windy days, take it up a few hills (I do see you're in Texas so no big climbs nearby but plenty of wind!) and make up your mind. It's good that you have the gas truck first so you don't have to guess how well it will pull the trailer. You may also want to do some mileage checks to see how far a tank of gas will take you pulling the new trailer. You will get farther with the diesel if you go places where range between stops is an issue like boondock camping.

TB doesn't add wheel travel though. Just lift. ZR2 has an extra 2" of travel over the TB. Longer shock, need more BJ angle and caster

Did you get yours sorted out? I want to tap into the sub wiring like everyone else but I have the same amp as you.

I used the belltech 2'' drop shackles on my previous 2wd truck and had no issues. Maybe try those instead if you cant find a fix.

To me it comes down to exactly one thing... how much do you like hearing a gas engine rev for hours on end? I went from a 1/2 ton 5.3 to a 1 ton diesel, the 1 ton feels a little more secure towing our travel trailer but the ride is punishing so that was a wash. Fuel mileage is the same towing, though unloaded I can get slightly better mpgs out of the 1 ton (until it does a regen). Practically speaking the gas engine would be fine, but in the back of your mind the the diesel will be calling out.

I run a Nitto Trail Grappler MT LT295/75R18 on my 2015. This is a 34.57" overall diameter and 11.73" wide tire. Slight rubbing at full lock. I have a leveling kit for the front.

are you talking about the channel that runs on the floor by the carpet? same one you remove for the normal install to run the harness?

Did you have Michelin tires? I had to have two of mine replaced under warranty to coming from the factory bad.

The rumblings are that the future holds more emissions changes and a higher DEF consumption.

Bought the truck back in 2019. It’s a Chevy trailboss custom 2019. I had a friend put on a rough country leveling kit sku# 1323 I believe it’s just the spacer. This was back in 2022. 30k more miles down the road I had upper control arm ball joint come apart on the road. It is the stock control arm that came with the truck. Looks like now I will be replacing it myself. I think the truck comes stock with a 1.5 higher in the front plus I believe the spacer adds an extra 2 inches. I’m not sure if I am right or not. Please let me know. I will now need new control arms that will better fit my truck. Not looking to break the bank. But if someone can help me out with this and offer any advice that would be great. Thanks you

I half throttle my rides at least at take off. Just barely below the traction control intrusion. I like the sensation of speed. I don’t go over the speed limit. I just get there quick. The one most people don’t expect it from is pretty fun. The odyssey, I had no idea it was so quick. I have one road that’s full of lights, has 4 lanes and a 60 mile per hour speed limit. It’s on the way back from my walking track. It seems Ram drivers are the most aggressive. I love surprising them with the Honda. Once they catch up we’re at the speed limit. My wife’s Genesis is the fastest of my 4 and a hemi killer, you’d never know. My brother had a 2010 challenger. We used to line up new rides for the test. The Genesis-Hemi Challenger race in 2011 was a surprise for everyone. I later bought a Genesis coupe instead of a Hemi Challenger as my mid life crisis car. I can floor my avalanche all day long and wouldn’t get in any trouble. Especially since it’s the first without loud exhaust. So as I make my way to the 200K mile mark it will be interesting to see if my break in process or driving style is detrimental.

In a few years we will be going full time in it. We want to spend our summers in Maine where we both are from and winters around the Hollywood/Ft. Lauderdale area. In between I'm sure trips out west and all over. So If I had to guess, probably 10k plus a year.

My 2019 with 48k on it stays full. When I got it brand new, I drove it like I did with any of my other vehicles. No break in, just got in and went. The fact that the 6.2 has so much power, it was hard to keep it out of the redline. Anyway, I changed the factory oil out at 500 miles, installed AMSOIL's OE 0w-20 and went to 1,500 miles, again with the OE 0w-20 and then went to 3,000 miles. Then installed AMSOIL's Signature Series 0w-20 and now following my used oil analysis for changes. Currently going 10k on a change. No oil usage at all. Now I do drive in manual mode and select L9. Have been since I purchased the truck. This keeps auto stop and DFM off. I also run a bottle of AMSOIL's P.i. every 4k miles as well as mix E85 fuel in with regular. I fill 10 gallons of E85 and then fill the rest of the way up with regular or premium. Have been doing that as well for over 40k miles. No issues. I want to convert it to flex fuel but for now the cost isn't worth it. Hoping down the line that cost will go down.

I have a brand new Sierra Denali that I had a set of Maxtrac drop shackles put on to take the rake out but like a lot of people here I have the annoying vibration from 28-22MPH on deceleration, and have noticed the longer I drive the truck the worse it gets. Looking through the drop shackle thread below I noticed that some trucks have factory shims that can be turned to fix the issue however my truck does not have them. I like the look it gives the truck but was wondering if anybody on here has a Denali or a Sierra that did not come with factory shims that has come up with a fix besides removing the drop shackles? I will say it does not have the vibration if I put it in neutral. I will post a link to the shackles that I used. Any help will be much appreciated! Thanks! https://maxtracstore.com/2019-2023-chevy-gmc-1500-w-adaptive-ride-control-2-rear-drop-kit-maxtrac-712120mr/

Note #2 and #3 are almost always deactivated on 2.7 engines unless accelerating or pulling hard or in L manual shift mode and not in 8speed cruising.

In my 2.7 L3B 2022 LTD #3 is doing just that. When I clean the injectors with Black02Silverados Amsoil PI he set me up on preferred account it stops the oil usage dead. I also have an alternate oil I’m using but i. The 6.2 case stick with 0w20 engine oil.

The door handles are mint, I took them off when my truck was new. The mirror caps have a few nicks but look good.

Great info but the oil control rings are highly influential on fuel dilution influenced stock engines even brand new ones. The FUEL additives that are polymeric and cook from day one especially heat and cooled using AFM will clog with that damaged polymeric blowby and must be cleaned somehow. Or you use oil. I’m betting you have a factory defective coil or coils or sticky injector/s causing that build up and those cylinder/s are what’s sucking the oil away.

I just found this catch can that I tried to sell here, any interest? Offers?

Yes but its only going to show the max gear you are letting it get to. So if you set it to L8 for example, the truck will shift 1 through 8 and locks out 9 and 10. If you manually upshift it, then you'd know what gear its getting into as you as you press the + on the shifter.

After you clear it and the gauge goes back, does it then turn the light on and the gauge goes back to zero? If it does, that's by design per the DTC in the ECM. At the end of the day, its 4 possible culprits. Bad thermostat, bad coolant temp sensor, bad wiring somewhere on the circuit or bad ECM. The first two are the most likely culprits. Action Taken When the DTC Sets DTC P0128 is a Type B DTC. The Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge is inoperative. The A/C is commanded OFF and inoperative. The Cooling Fans are commanded ON. Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC DTC P0128 is a Type B DTC. Diagnostic Aids DTC  P0128 occurring causes the Engine Coolant Temperature Gage to default to cold.