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V8s had the big AFM (and introduction of DFM) changes. 4.3 still uses the VLOM setup from 14-18 but the connector is different.

It won't be a 100% direct bolt in, not without swapping some parts. The water pump is totally different on the 19-21 LV3 4.3 and you'd have to swap yours over. Second, you will have to swap over your valve lifter oil manifold assembly as the connector is different on the 19-21 vs 14-18. This will require new intake gaskets and both high pressure fuel pump lines. You will also have to swap your high pressure fuel pump over. Might be some sensors here and there too you might have to swap. Oh, and no vacuum pump boss so you'd have to figure out the vacuum lines for the booster.

The dealer I'm going to look at is a few hours hours away and is having some sort of sale going on . Will have to see how it goes . Do you think there's deals to be made by paying cash ? I'm not sure how that all works when they offer interest at a lower rate than what you can get it from the bank ? When they offer financing is that built into the price the dealer will be asking ? As the prices I see advertised in Canada are MSRP . I'm pretty sure MSRP is just that ,what GM thinks they should charge. You walk on to the lot there's the factory sticker and the MRSP lists $70,000.00 is that just the starting point before the dealer adds on their markup I have not bought new in 30 years or so . I have read that some say you ask what the out the door price is and go from there ? Maybe someone who is savvy could break it all down for me I will have more questions All replies welcome !

How safe is it to drive, mine is under warranty but they have a back order on the part. The fan runs high constantly and will occasionally go into reduced power mode.

I think there was a big change in AFM control from 2018 to 2019, so look into that, may have to swap some parts around.

My two cents, I have a 2018 'Rado and my HP fuel pressure is a lot higher than that, in the 1,500 psi range and higher, may look into that. Have you told your GM tech about your low HP fuel range

those look awesome. thats going to be what i do. thanks for the pic man

I find it bizarre that the fuel door or cap is not lockable one . Not only for gas theft but just plain idiots that want to throw some crap down into your tank . There are people like that !

sheath... I'm building my 2022 CCSB Duramax similar to yours to do camping and overall preparedness.. Right now I have the Baja Designs fog light kit (I have a Custom, so my truck didn't come with fog lights), Viair 300P compressor and 800w inverter that will be mounted under the rear seat. I have a truck box that holds tools, lights, recovery gear, extra clothing, towing gear, and miscellaneous other things. Regarding tires... I'd highly recommend the Yokahama Geolander G117 AT-XD tires in 295/65/20. My truck is stock, not leveled, and these are the largest tires you can fit stock. I wanted an aggressive tire, non-mud terrain, that would handle deep snow, packed snow, sand and still have on-road manners pulling our 13,000lb 5th wheel. The tires have a 4,080lb rating. These tires came out about 9 months ago and does not have many, if any, reviews from the US. Most are from Australia, and even those are not user reviews. I took a chance on them and so far I love them. They do great in deep snow and packed snow. I know they will do great in sand. On-road they do have a very slight high-pitched hum, but nothing that is annoying. I have only 2,000 miles on them. I'll do a review once I put more miles on them and run them through sand and mud and other off-road scenarios.

my oil cooler lines totally came apart while I was driving,I have a 2019 Trail Boss 5.3 with only 25k miles on it. My warranty ran out 3 months before this happened n will not cover anything. I did get the truck to my mechanic , just to make sure the motor was good I had him drain the oil cut the oil filter to see if any metal bits in it, there was, so now I have a motor that might last a while or not, so I decided not to take a chance and replace the motor. What pisses me off is GM knew about this problem and had recall or noting, any thoughts are welcomed

asilverblazer: I kind of agree, except that the pressure spike is far above spec. The spike in oil pressure triggers the engine light. The misfire triggers the engine light 'flashing'. As well, after warming up, the oil pressure is higher than normal. All of that said, the truck has 260k (km) and it would not surprise me that the lifters are weak. PS: I think my scan tool can turn the solenoid off, but I am not competent enough with it yet.

Make sure the engine (everything for that matter) is well grounded. Test by using a jumper cable from the engine to the battery negative.

Wonder what level of scan tool would be able to take over control of (or at least monitor) the oil pump solenoid... turn it off and see if the miss fire clears up. The only way oil pressure could affect engine performance would be through the DFM lifters. Maybe the oil pump and pressure are as intended (no codes) and the lifter is the problem. In other words, so what if the oil pressure spikes - none of the other cylinders have a problem with it.

You can use the regulator... but it isn't helping anything and sounds like it is causing problems. Bypassing or removing it will fill the tires faster and easier. A nail gun isn't using the volume that filling a tire is. Generally speaking and some what in line with Richards comment, a consumer grade compressor isn't going to develop so much pressure that it needs to be regulated to properly run (protect) consumer grade tools. That being the case I'd say that most uses for compressed air are the more volume and pressure the better. Putting the regulator on is just inviting more issues. The reason its in the manual and it suggests to use it the way they have is to prevent someone from blowing up something like putting 110PSI in a lawnmower tire rated for 15PSI.

OK thank you. I will give it a try

HUD is standard for 2024 AT4X and Denali. It was standard for 2023 AT4X and Denali as well.

I have two vehicles that I didn’t buy new. My avalanche and my wife’s Genesis. Both had an invoice for a very expensive dealer paint protection. Both vehicles shine like new. Ones an 02, one is a 2011. I probably wouldn’t spend the money. But the results are amazing.

I took the Honda in for an oil change at the dealership yesterday, had a coupon. They have a bar where you can watch. There was a new one on the rack next to mine and the owner was next to me. During the conversation I asked how often he changes the oil. His answer was since his first car a 67 Camaro he’s done 2K oil changes. His reason was at 3K it would need a qt. Ever since it’s every two. He later explained he gets a new one every three years. I gave him my number.

Did you laugh when they said this? I did when I read it. Not self-healing. I for one await the results and hope you come back and post it up. Please....

Like I said, I ventured into the world of coatings, and one of the big things that I learned is that people's definition of "lasts" varies greatly from mine. I had both CeramicPro and CQuartz professionally done as promotional deals and found that both started to break down already at the 3 month mark. Now, granted, even after a year, there was still some product left on the vehicle...but that's not "lasting" to me. Less than 50% of the vehicle was protected at that point and when I inquired with the dealers they said "yeah you need to bring the vehicle in once a year for "maintenance""...problem is they charge for that...in the $300-600 range. LOL. That's not maintenance...that's a re-application. So basically, when you spend $2k+ for a "permanent" coating...what you are signing up for is a very overpriced protection subscription where they re-apply the product once each year....furthermore, at least with CeramicPro, CQuartz, and (as I later learned) Adams Advanced, you are without full protection for most of that year. This is why I returned to just using good synthetic/blend waxes...there are plenty of good products in the class that last as long or longer than those coatings and cost a literal fraction of the price. I am currently on Pinnacle Souveran and I generally re-apply 3-4 times a year, because I find that there are almost zero holes in protection at that point. I've seen Souveran surpass the year mark according to other's definitions of "lasting" (meaning partial protection) and it takes me less than 30 minutes per vehicle to apply, so i'm hard pressed to explain to anyone why they should pay $1000+ for any coating. I pay $50/bottle and that covers all three of my vehicles for at least a year. My total detailing costs are less than $100/year and I have at least as good, if not better, results than those who pay $1000+ for coatings. Yes I do it myself but if you aren't into detailing and want to pay someone it's still a fraction of the cost for the same results if you stay away from the overpriced coatings. Every time I have this conversation with "coating guys" I always get the "yeah those coatings you tried are garbage...you need to try XYZ". Sure...i'll just spend thousands trying everyone's favorite coatings. As i'm sure you can agree - the detailing world is one of those places where everyone thinks the stuff they use is the best. Once you've been doing this as long as we have you learn that there's no magic, and there's actually not all that much difference between brands in their respective tiers.. There's the cheap stuff and there's the good stuff.

A disabled veterans NIRVANA!!!! YES!!

Found a lower duct. Out of stock everywhere except a single dealer (tons of dealers around here). However, I doubt they have this "in stock" on the shelf. It let me order it though even though dealers less than 10 miles away it would not. GM parts research and ordering is such a laborious and confusing mess. Edit: I'll be darned. Was on the shelf I guess. Got a ready for pickup email lol. Dunno why they would have that laying around, but there ya go. After some tail chasing and gathering from 3 different sources, I've got everything ordered. Beyond what may be required to mod the airbox to TB connection, and relying on those ducts coming with the insulators and drain plug attached, I'm all in right now at $598.21. Compare that to the unreleased GM version at a discounters listed price of $809.68 pre shipping ($995 MSRP). If I can get this all to work I'll post a list of exact parts needed for the full swap. $600 isn't chump change to spend on a non-performance adding intake but at least I won't be embarrassed by the Toyota-like giant fake hood scoop any longer (barring that all this works!).

I LOVE(!) this solution! it's exactly what I was hoping would work. Thanks for posting this with pics.

Geez, can't believe it's been 4 years @pgamboa! You ready to do this?!

Really? I've been detailing cars myself for about 30 years.... i don't know what wax out there lasts as long as a basic ceramic coating.... and as far as application, I've never applied anything that was easier to wipe on & off than the ceramic.