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A couple of posters in a multipro tailgate thread in the mods subforum were talking about the Cirrus 620, which is a hard sided short bed length camper. The Four Wheel Campers Hawk is a pop up camper for 80 inch beds. ATC has a similar model.

Good point. I’m in the Pacific Northwest where we don’t have much salting of the roads.

Yep, had a friend comment on my Michelin's and said I wonder why they cost what they do? I replied "Because they are worth it."

The nature of the design is really that good on the L8T though. Isolated from everything else, in its own sealed air "tray" at the leading edge of the hood, direct shot to the sealed air box. I think the scoop is for the demand of extra air needed to feed the 900+lb tq of the big D. Also because it's a sales gimmick in a very competitive market. Gas trucks are mostly fleet purchases. Cost savings on the hood stuff over 100s of thousands of trucks is a big deal and fleets don't care that it's not there.

Kickass - although I am a fix-it type, I figured I would just spend the $15 and buy a new chuck. I can always putz around with it later and take it apart to see the innards. And, yes I have a blow gun attachment, and I thought of using it but figured (with my uneducated layman's mind) it would not give me a true "resistance" like a partially filled tire would. Richard - not sure the intent of your comment about leading a horse, almost sounds a bit condescending...however, as initially mentioned, the manual was explicit to set the regulator to the same psi as the intended destination (although it was non-specific as to filling tires). I presumed that meant as the tire psi was 70, I should set the regulator to reflect that. The compressor is used mostly for nail guns and blowing around wood dust in the shop so, for me, tire inflation is a bit foreign in this respect. Did not know the regulator reduces volume as well as pressure. Have learned a great deal on this topic. Thanks to everyone, Marv

Honestly I'm baffled that gm would put out a "Z71" with 3.08 gears. Mine is a 2015 Z71 w/the G80 rear end. It came w/3.42's and I run 35'12.5 18's on a 3.5" lift and haven't had any issues. I don't tow a lot but when I do it never has an issue.

asilverblazer: Possibly, but the main culprit is the spike in oil. The misfire is secondary to that (according to my scanner)

Not doubting what you are saying but It would be interesting to see an apples to apples comparison with a '20+ diesel vs the L8T for IAT. I wouldn't think GM would add the cost of the scoop/plumbing if it wasn't a benefit. The bean counters would have eliminated it otherwise or they would all be just for show.

This is exactly what my truck, 2020 2500 Duramax high country, does except for the service steering lock message. Next time it happens I am going to try and remote start it to see if I get that message. My dealership told me my batteries were bad so I paid for new ones and the issue has come back. I spent $1000 for troubleshooting and battery replacement only to have the problem intermittently occur. Their solution was “you’ve got to get the truck to go to sleep and to do that you need to open all the doors and hood and leave them open for 20 minutes.” First of all I shouldn’t have to perform a magic ritual like I’m at Hogwarts to get my truck to start, but second this is not effective. One time recently I got telematics code B101D and U18B4 codes. Another time I got a transfer case communication code don’t remember what it was. Other times I’ve charged the batteries and then it’s worked. My batteries shouldn’t draw down after I park the truck after lunch until the end of the day. When it is in this condition I notice when I put my foot on the brake to start it the speedometer needle flickers a bit for about 2 seconds. Also after it fails to start I get a high pitched noise coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. My dealer is no help because the problem is not readily reproduced. GM needs to look into this because too many people are having this problem. My wife wants me to trade in the truck and go to a different brand because it is going to leave us stranded and I will never hear the end of it. If a solution is found let me know.

Start with #18 on passenger side

I am having the same problem, did you find a solution?

UPDATE: I have Found after A LOT more research, and upon inspection of my own 2020 suburban and a couple trucks like my own that these racks are supposed to move. By design GM made them a (floating) type system to lessen the burden on the internals of the piston/cylinder itself. Contrary to my previous experience if it does not move then it is binding (most likely from frame or mount damage) which will cause undue wear and premature failure of the rack. Worst part of all this is that my original issue, my PS intermittently going out (steering wheel torque sensor) has no repair option. You are forced to buy a new R&P to replace the integrated (faulty) sensor.

Yeah still going up slowly here.

It may have 2 radio fuses, 1 for the memory and 1 for power

Unusual to lose 3&4 in a 700, usually it's pump problems, possibly repairable without a rebuild

you can lead a horse..... turn the regulator all the way open or eliminate it for filling tires or using alr tools. Regulated pressure is useful for spray painting and some nail guns. Most automotive tools work best around 180 psi even though the directions say 135. Commercial compressors do not have built in regulators, they shut off at the pressure set by the switch and kick back on when the pressure falls to the pressure set in the same switch. The regulator not only reduces the pressure but reduces the volume as well

If you wanted to be a fix-it type of person you can put the chuck in your bench vice and unscrew the end where the chuck goes onto the schrader valve. There is a little rubber washer in there and over time the washer gets worn out. I've replaced it before since I have a ton of rubber faucet washers on hand at home and it worked like new afterwards. Do you have a blow gun at all? If you do, you can rule out a regulator problem for air volume by connecting that and leaving the gun wide open and see what your air flow is like.

You can build the transmission while it's still a stock engine, it doesn't matter that it's not making a ton of power right now. The stall you choose on the converter needs to be matched with however large the camshaft will be. A big cam that makes lots of power up top will want a higher stall converter compared to a camshaft that only makes power between 2,000-6,000rpm. I wouldn't be the guy to ask about what place sells the best rebuilt kits.

If it gets to the valves it sounds like it could. If you mean as a spray or short residence time use it might or it might not depending on the chemistry. If has a heat activated synthetic chemistry that mimics more expensive esterified stuff it may be too slow on cold intake cleaning etc.

We’ll see how the black ones fair in Vermont winters. I only need them to last long enough until I trade the truck.

Kickass and asilver, thanks very much for the detailed responses. As per your comments, I went out and purchased a new chuck to replace the one I had on the hose. I will try this first and if it doesn't improve, I will trade out the regulator. The hose is quite new and has no blockages so I am confident that has been eliminated as the problem. And I will also raise the regulator pressure a bit (although the manual indicates to set the regulator to a psi just above the required psi - in this case 70, I think a small bump should be ok). I also bleed the tank after every use, and turn the regulator down to minimum. Thanks again, Marv

There are a lot of VIN decoders online.

I have the all black version of these steps on my truck and can attest (also) to working well as a step and being of a good overall size and position. The chrome ones will not, however, "still look like new" in any areas of the rust belt. I had the 6" square chrome version on my 2015 and the driver's side step was showing signs of corrosion eating through from the underside after only half a dozen reasonably mild New England winters. Don't get me wrong - I don't expect the all-black ones to fair any better, and actually expect that they'll be worse overall. The reality is that they are made to bare minimum standards and simply won't hold up over time if you're driving anywhere that has to treat the roadways in the winter.

Could any of you fellas explain what information is contained in a VIN Number related to 2024 2500 HD's ? I think they are 17 characters . Thank You !

I wonder what's different between the one quoted and the chrome diesel one? The diesel one (84520314) is almost $47 cheaper. I remember waiting in limbo for the ZR2 knuckles to come back in stock. Looks like the same thing will be happening with the upper and lower duct.