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Got almost 50k on the OEM BF's 275/60R20. Looking at going with the Michelin Defender LTX M/S2. They also have 285/55R20 and 305/50R20 that technically could fit on the 9" OEM SLT wheel. I am not lifted, has the x31 package if that makes any difference. Anyone used either of those bigger sizes? From what I was finding on the forum I think 285 would be ok but 305 may rub. Anyone tried those sizes without a lift? Thanks

If the rain can hold off, I'm going to replace the injectors today. I may not finish until tomorrow, I'm an old man now and work much slower! Pulling that intake with a engine that is set back so far, is a real challenge for me. Afterwards I'll post how everything turned out. Meanwhile, fingers crossed.

I talked with AMSOIL and Red Line both directly about filtering out additives. Both disagree with you. Most are in solution and those that are not, are submicron suspensions. In fact, I spent quite some time on this with Red Line when I bought my 2 micron AMSOIL bypass system and directly about the moly in Red Line Oil. Oh, looky-see there. The FACTS disagree with you. Ultra Clean 13/12/8 oil with the additive package intact. In fact, very close to the VOA. Lord, wear metals showing How can this be? The ISO test starts at 2 microns. The GM Wear Study disagrees with you. Machinery Lubrication disagrees. Oil Labs disagree. Ed Law/Total Seal disagrees. Fact is, you're on an island on this. You need a different hobby that following me like a puppy. Now back in the IGNORNE box with you. I opened this single post on a gut feel and guess what...... You did not disappoint.

Test the wiring for the 1-2 and 2-3 shift solenoids. The 1-2 solenoid is a light green wire, the pin at the PCM is pin 48 in connector C2 (green connector) and at the transmission its pin A in the round transmission connector. The 2-3 solenoid is a yellow wire with a black stripe. Pin at the PCM is pin 47 in connector C2 (green connector) and at the transmission its pin B. Check for power and check terminal tension and corrosion. Also, you have a 5.3 engine not a 5.7.

I have a 2016 2500 Silverado high country. Im looking to trade the center console for a bench seat if anything is interested let me know! I live in Cali

I replaced my stock horn for a MotoHorn Dual Track hoping it would be louder than stock... it isn't. Sounds the exact same. So if you are looking for louder, don't go MotoHorn Dual Track. That being said, I do want to try their MotoHorn (trumpet style setup). www.motohorn.com

Torque converter has likely been damaging the pump this whole time and wiped the fluid pump out. Time for a rebuild or replacement.

Was driving home the other day and my transmission completely stop responding. Was able to get pulled over and checked the trans temp. It was at 215'. I sat for about 45 minutes until it got back down to 185. Was able to limp it home by slowly getting up to speed and then coasting as long as I could. It made it the last 20 minutes although it was slipping nad temps rose back up to 195. The fluid is burnt it is dark brown and you can smell it just standing next to the truck. I don't see metal in the fluid on the dipstick so, I am hoping it may just be as simple as a fluid and filter change but fear it is probably the TQ or worse the whole shabang. Transmissions are my achilles so any help in diagnosing would be greatly appreciated. I am on a budget as well. Also, I do plan on installing the temp bypass as well as a larger cooler along with whatever repairs need to be made.

Thanks for confirming this - I was going to do the swap today but I thought I ran into needing UCAs too... looks like I do not I am going to leave the rear end stock (RST) height and just end up level (I think) by installing the DSSV on all 4 corners, keeping stock UCAs too.

I have 2003 gmc sierra 4x4 5.7 liter vortex engine with 4L60 transmission. I have a PO751 code. 1st gear and lockout gear works only at first start up. Once driven an few miles I loose 1st and overdrive. I've replaced with a rebuild transmission and problem reoccurring and had that one rebuilt and and replaced PCM. Code and symptoms are back. Any suggestions???

Any luck performing alternator upgrade?

no, you can try and reset the system from the truck menu, doesn't always work, get the system reset by a scanner, might be you have a wiring problem

Bump this up

Once again its mostly reading unactivated additives not dirty or UNCLEAN OIL in the biblical sense. You can filter additives out of engine oil if you have a very efficient filter. Water well that's a different story and will obscure the readings too. What you focus on Grumpy shows you are a novice who loves to read what he posts. Cheers

Thanks man, bumper was $400, headlights $1400 for the pair from eBay and grille $250 from a recycling place here in Houston. Just missing the hood top grille trim and fog lights. I sold my headlights and bumper for $1500 so it wasn’t too bad.

LOL, I have been that guy too it was 100% my fault and said never again.......I was timid, unsure, believed they were working and lacked confidence in purchasing big items......however I would grind over new surfboard, lol .driving hours and hours to start a negotiation is not going to go well.....they know you arent going anywhere maybe purchase in state of Washington or USA if possible and register back in B.C......have had quite a few offers from dealers up that way the biggest factor on getting a good deal is going to be YOU and how you handle yourself......the truck is just the "item" you happened to be purchasing

3-5k off MSRP here and yeah go test drive one first, doesnt have to be the one you buy..... you could order one like mentioned I would get the LT over the Custom just for the new interior....totally worth extra $1800 or whatever it is now I didnt test drive the truck I bought but I am kinda like that with most things, lol...... I already knew I didnt want the Ram or Ford so didn't have much choice......

Those are just people in call centers running interference for GM. 99.9% probably don't even drive a GM vehicle or are even located in the US.

Don't bother. They are completely useless and I have yet to hear anyone actually helped by them. They come on here about once a month, post that exact same post to various threads only changing the name of the poster and you never hear anything further from them. Oops, I just noticed that now they don't even acknowledge the poster's name that they are "responding" to. If you go to their profile page and look at all their previous posts, you can see exactly what I mean https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/profile/92340-gmcustomerservice/

I've heard these arguments go back and forth all day. I do and will always run a Ranch Hand because they are proven to work. They have updates now for parking sensor compatibility, and even being just the grill guard IMO saved you from some airbag deployments. Idk if im the only one who looked at both these pictures more that once ut that car was hit hard. I'm a firefighter and have done extractions on vehicles. It's amazing sometimes what these bumpers and grill guards will take/protect you from. Not to mention the animals I personally have had just bounce off mine. Well worth the money. I'm just pissed that my wife's suburban couldn't get one due to the radar system up front (adaptive cruise etc). I will figure out a way to re l ocate it though where it's still functional. Kinda like when they told me that the Ranch Hand grill guard and the RC hidden winch mount couldn't work together. They are both mounted properly on my truck...

Dealer is kind of at a lose trying to figure out a clunking noise that seems to be in the area of the TC and front drive shaft. The noise is like a rotating clunk so they figure its in the drive line somewhere. The have had it on a rack both for a visual inspection and getting all 4 wheels spinning with no luck duplicating the sound. The did try a TSB on re-alaigning the TC but that did not help. The noise happens only when letting off the gas and is louder on the freeway. Truck has 1076 miles. Is this normal for the front drive shaft at the TC?

The ZR2 transfer case skid vs the baby Z71 skid. In the process of drilling the rear holes. Going to use through+bolts and nuts. Initially was going to tap M10x1.5 threads for one of the unused front Z71 bolts and add another, but didn't have the right 8.5mm or whatever PITA metric bit. Fits on the 20-23 great, just need to drill rear holes.

See the first post, camera and cables are all referenced there.

I am still struggling trying to diagnose a problem with my trailer brake controller. My post is long, but I'm hoping someone with more knowledge than me might be able to deduce what is going on. I have read about the issues with 2024 trucks when connected to a trailer with solar. That sure sounds similar to what I've been experiencing, but doesn't seem like it applies to older trucks. So I'm starting this thread from scratch. Very sporadically while towing an RV I get the message "Check trailer wiring" followed immediately by "Trailer brakes connected". Sometimes it doesn't happen for a copulation hundred miles, and then will happen repeatedly ten times in a row before stopping again. Twice I've gotten a message saying "Service trailer brake system". When this battlements I lose the trailer brakes entirely and find that the fuse for the trailer brakes is blown. I replace the fuse and everything works again for awhile. I towed a different trailer that did not have trailer brakes and with that one I got the "Check trailer wiring" message and found that I had lost the rear running lights and side marker lights. After unplugging, reconnecting and restarting the truck they were back on. I have replaced the trailer brake controller located above the spare tire and also the trailer connector plug in on the truck. My truck is a 2021 GMC Sierra 2500 HD. I'm at a loss on what to try next or how to diagnose this. Any help is appreciated!