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  2. Fuse is good. Trial and error or is there a way to determine whether it’s the switch or the module? Is there a relay as well in the system or is that just in the older GMC models?
  3. I have been a car guy for over 55 years, having several Chevy Silverados. Can someone tell me what's the difference between these (2) trucks beside some styling?
  4. System will set codes. Most common failure part is the switch in the dash, followed by the trailer plug then the module on the frame. Being it happened in a car wash, I'd suspect the trailer plug had water intrusion. Also, the fuse for trailer brake are in the UBEC (underhood fuse block). Fuse #1 is the trailer brake fuse.
  5. My 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 LY5 has had an oil consumption problem since I got it at 99,000 miles (now 144K). I change my oil around every 6K mile with full synthetic and have to add 2-3qts in the interim. At first I thought I was losing oil from the active fuel management system but I noticed the oil cooler lines have a slow leak at the crimped transition. I'm planning on changing them and just wondered if there is a 3rd party option that actually lasts without leaking. I've been reading that this has been a common problem for the last 3 or 4 generations at least. So I'd like to stay away from ACDelco on this one. Any tips on the repair would be great too.
  6. What year? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. I do not understand why everyone feels that they can only buy a Chevy truck. I have owned trucks from Willys, Dodge, Toyota, and Ford, and I will be buying the best truck I can find later this year regardless of whether it happens to be a Chevy product. Having spent more than a year doing research my 2500HD Duramax it is not likely that it will be replaced with a Silverado 1500 truck for a number of reasons. Ford provides the most options in terms of configurations, including a 36-gallon gas tank which is 10 gallon more than GM/Chevy provides on its 1500 trucks. I used to be able to buy an aftermarket gas tank to gain more capacity but with the current emissions regs the companies like Titan have stopped making them. To get a larger gas tank it needs to be a factory option which is available from Ram and Ford, and Toyota Tundras come stock with a 38-gallon gas tank. For backcountry travel I do not want to be hauling a bunch of 5-gallon jerry gas cans - been there and done that! I can change the gears and I can add an aftermarket locking rear differential to a Chevy truck where these are not factory options, but I cannot fix the problem with the small gas tank. Odd to me that Chevy as with Toyota only provides the "anti-spin" function where the brakes are applied to the faster spinning wheel for even the 4WD trucks and there is no option for a true LSD differential from the factory. During the pandemic I will be waiting for details on the 2021 models and then making a decision and size of the gas tank is probably going to take Chevy off my list.
  8. Fuel pump and coolant sensor relocation have been installed. I also got a free coolant shower in the process was refreshing. So it's the official countdown to putting on the supercharger now! I'm getting excited about it.
  9. This post is spot on. Based on my experiences with 6.0 in the past, I wouldn’t have second thoughts about it (or the 6.6 gas) in terms of keeping it long term with little to no issues. I traded a 6.0 in on my current 19 Duramax about a year ago. Absolutely love the truck. But at that time, I knew it would be a truck I’d drive for 2-3yrs tops before moving on to something else. Reason being, as samuse said above, they aren’t proven as long term reliable vehicles, mainly due to the ridiculous DPF/emissions nonsense that they are now required to have. They are very expensive to repair outside of warranty. They are more expensive to own/maintain while under warranty, mainly for people like me who don’t do their own oil and fuel filter changes. But the real added expense that you see weekly is in fuel. $20-$25 more per fill up on the dmax due to fuel price differences, but I can go an additional 100-150 miles on a tank than on the same truck I had prior with a 6.0, so you have to consider that as well. As was stated before, it is very difficult to financial justify the added upfront cost and fuel/maintenance costs in the diesel compared to gas, unless you tow heavy on a frequent basis. The justification for most doesn’t work in terms of dollars, but it does for a lot people in terms of driving experience.
  10. You read me like a book bruh. At the end of the day you'll are flexing on 65 HP at best. And I'm the insecure one lol. Great sense of humor BTW...
  11. I have been driving a diesel 2500 Duramax since 2011 and I can say that buying a diesel powered truck to save money on fuel costs is dumb. The engine adds $5,000 or more to the price for the truck. Where I live I pay $3.75 for diesel as compared to $2.45 for regular gas. With my diesel truck I spend 4x as much on fuel filter replacement and twice as much on battery replacement and twice as much for oil changes and I have the cost of DEF and diesel fuel additives and the costs for maintaining the emissions controls components. Want the lowest fuel costs drive a Prius. I have the heavy duty pickup for hauling or towing heavy loads and it averages 16 mpg overall. The Prius averages 45 mpg and burns regular gas and after 97,000 miles has the original brakes and has only had two battery changes and a second set of tires put on it and Prius tires and batteries are a heck of a lot cheaper than the ones for my truck. The Prius is actually good for hauling and I even used it to pick up 28 cases of wine and bring them home from a distant winery. I plan on selling my 2500HD truck this year and I will be replacing it with a 1500 class pickup with a gas V-6 engine and 3.92 gears. Such a truck will cost a lot less to own and operate. This will alter my "fleet" which consists of the 45 mpg Prius sedan and a 22 mpg Traverse SUV with the addition of a 18 mpg pickup. I put the most miles on the Prius and the least on the diesel pickup.
  12. Does anyone have this supposed TSB for the spoiler bolts? I have the one for the window, but didn’t know one existed for bolts on our trucks.
  13. Or sell your current truck on Craigslist and get pre-approved by a bank for a loan for the "new" truck. The last time I financed a truck I went to my local bank that was offering good rates and got pre-approved for the maximum I would need for a new truck. When I found the truck I wanted to buy I paid a deposit by check to hold it and it took two business days to get a bank check for the amount of the truck. My deposit check was returned to me once they had the bank's check. Buying a used truck from a dealer and taking their offer on your trade-in costs you at least $3,000 and probably more. I work to hard for my money to give it away like that to save a little bit of my time and some inconvenience. $3,000 takes $5,000 in gross income to get and to me that is a significant amount of money to throw away. I would sooner give the money to the Salvation Army than to a car dealership.
  14. With preventive maintenance schedules offering 12-18% cost savings over reactive maintenance, and predictive schedules another 8-12%, why would anyone not be proactive if costs savings and longevity are the ultimate goals? I’m thoroughly satisfied with the build quality of my ‘16. Definitely better than the “plastic fantastic” ‘99 Sierra Z71 that was the last full size GM Truck I’d owned, and better than the F150 that preceded it. My father also bought a ‘16, a Colorado CCLB Z71, brand new to replace the last vehicle he’d bought new, an ‘86 Mitsubishi Mighty Max. With 345k on it, it still purred like a kitten, but the years of hauling the boat in and out of salt water had taken its toll and he finally sold it when the cab mounts came though the floor and the cab dropped, but it still drove fine on only it’s second clutch, which had 200k on it. These trucks will go the distance if you let them, IMO.
  15. Ok. That’s what my mechanic told me, so I’m going with his recommendation. Please continue to do as you wish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Today
  17. I have not experienced any squeaks or clunks in my 2500HD nor have I used Fluid Film on the truck. If you think the Fluid Film is the cause of the squeaks, take the truck to a magic wand type car wash and clean the springs and bushings using soap with high pressure spray. Dirt and Fluid Film residue should wash off. Oily substances like Fluid Film are dirt magnets. You may have salt and road grit build-up where it's not intended and it could be creating your problem.
  18. Today I was driving my 05 Silverado 5.3l and I was about to exit off the highway. My Wife and I heard this kind of shuttering sound coming from the engine. When I came up to the traffic light I could hear the engine ticking and tappping like it was low on oil. When I came to a complete stop the engine wanted to die. I had to put it in neutral and give it gas to keep it idling. I noticed the oil pressure guage was below 40 and fluctuating a lot which is not normal for this truck. I checked the oil level and it shows full of oil. I let it set for at least 30 mins and checked the oil level again and it said it was full again. I started it back up and the oil guage is still reading below 40 and fluctuating at idle a lot. At idle it usually runs above 40 and more when driving. i don’t see any leaks. Any suggestions on what to look for?? Or what to test?
  19. I rotate the tires on all my cars and trucks every 5,000 miles and pay the extra amount to get a "lifetime" rotation and wheel balance when buying new tires. With brakes it is the ones in the front that do most of the work. If you do not have electric trailer brakes and a trailer brake controller or do not have them set properly then the truck is doing the braking and not the trailer brakes. I would guess that you have very little wear on your trailer's brakes. A sticking caliper will result in dragging and faster wear of the pads. I would expect that there would be some pulling experienced when driving and in particular when turning although power steering makes this more difficult to detect. The pad with only 5% left has the sticking caliper. You can google on "sticking brake caliper symptoms" and get more information. In the past with a Chevy Tahoe the rotors had to be replaced at 32,000 miles and that was with no towing and mostly freeway driving. I bought aftermarket rotors and calipers and had them installed by a local shop and the total cost was no more than going with the OEM parts and having the dealer do the work. I drove the truck for another 140,000 miles and when I sold it the rotors and calipoers and pads were in great shape. Dealers make most of their profits from parts and service and so you can get aftermarket parts that are much better than the OEM parts and not pay a dime more.
  20. Looks awesome! I always remember “ Victory Red “ as the colour name. Is that it . .? Used to see tonnes of trucks, Chevy’s and GMC’s in the 1990-1998 model year era. Always looked good. Yours is no exception.....
  21. I finished my 200 mile round trip this morning. No problems at all, truck is strong. On a lighter side, my girls absolutely love this rig and we're super excited about the new baby hens 4 bared rocks 2 australoprs 3 cochins Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  22. A bit more than average on the insecure side aren’t ya! The thread is about benefits of either 5.3 or 6.2 and that’s off the lot. Why would anyone want to EVER invest in a supercharger for a 5.3 when you can get soooooo much more out of supercharging a 6.2. Nice try, go back into the crack you came out of [emoji23] [emoji13] [emoji38] Looks like this thread is in need of exterminating..... Be safe and Good luck to all, Sent from Above
  23. I just picked up nine hens [emoji4] Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  24. That is a complete waste of money. Octane is nothing more than a measure of the fuel resistance to pre-ignition or "knock". A higher compression engine will produce more power but it is also more prone to pre-ignition and so unless the higher octane gas is used the engine computer will ****** the spark to protect the engine and there will be less power produced and a drop in fuel economy. My SUV engine was engineered to run on 87 octane gas and if I put in a higher octane rated gas it accomplishes nothing other than to further enrich the oil companies and they do not need my help only the billions in federal tax subsidies that they already take. When I had a coupe with an engine that required 93 octane for best performance I would run a lower octane gas but my fuel economy dropped and so no real dollar savings. The gas at the pumps are coming from the same refineries and all that varies is the markup by the retailer at their pumps. Costco has the lowest markup and it is the same gas as that going to Arco or Chevron and every other gas station. Gas retailers want the public to think that their gasoline has magical additives that justify the much higher prices being charged but it is all a con game. I use gasbuddy to find the least expensive gas on my travels, but around town I do not drive 20 miles to save a few pennies at the pumps. Where you can have problems with gasoline quality is at some rural gas station that has had little business during the winter months and has a good deal of gasoline sitting in an underground tank. With the current pandemic it would be wise to avoid the small mom and pop stores that sell gas on the side.
  25. Does the classic still receive updates from Apple?
  26. Most people are unaware of how incredibly dirty diesel fuel is and the need to help it with additives. Diesel is cleaner in the USA than in Europe but their fuel has a higer cetane rating. Adding a cetane booster that also helps with the fuel lubricity and an injector cleaner is worthwhile though not needed for every tank of diesel burned. Lots of these additives are available and I go with the least expensive in a bottle the size that works with the 36 gallon fuel tank so I do not need to measure it out at the pumps. No reason to go with Amsoil for anything and the mediocre performance of Amsoil diesel motor oils makes me avoid all their products. Diesel is going to cause more problems during the winter in areas where all you can buy is biodiesel. There is still a problem with algae buildup in diesel and an additive will keep this from happening and avoid a very expensive repair job. A diesel fuel filter that removes 98.7% of the particles in a gallon of diesel fuel will allow 240,000 particle to pass through and hit the injectors at high speed. Also a 2-micron filter will allow particles up to 10 microns in size to pass through the filter media. And changing filters more often is actually detrimental as fuel filters, like air filters, are least effective when new and before any media loading has taken place. Diesel engines take a great deal longer than gas engines to reach their optimum operating temperature and so avoiding short trips of less than 30 minutes duration is best avoided.
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