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  1. 24 points
    I installed this thingy on the top of my 2017 6.2L. Not really sure what it does, but my truck goes really fast now.
  2. 15 points
    Seat Memory Retrofit (RPO - A45) by pgamboa So I gave everyone a sneak peak of my radio that showed the “Comfort and Convenience” options. This option is an option when you have the A45 - Seat Memory Package, typically found on LTZ, High County, SLT, and Denali Trims. Since owning my truck (2016 Silverado LT, 1500 CCSB), I started down the path of adding Seat Memory because I thought this was upgrade path in order to add DL3 Mirrors (power fold, turn signal, puddle light, etc.) I originally only wanted DL3 Mirrors but it seemed (at the time) that I could or would need to add Seat Memory since all the circuits for DL3 Mirrors and their harnesses were built for Seat Memory. When I realized that adding Seat Memory was never going to happen and couldn’t be done, I always wanted to know why. The MAIN reason why it has been said it couldn’t be done, wasn’t because that it couldn’t, but because of all the hardware, wiring, and programming requirements needed in order to achieve it. There is a HUGE parts list, a TON of wiring, then the programming. I’m here to share my retrofit details with all of you! Let’s start with my truck first. 2016 Silverado 1500 LT, CCSB, Gas, 5.3L, 2WD. Came with Factory Heated Leather Seats, Power Adjust Driver Seat, Power Adjust Pedals, Rear Park Assist Sensors, Rear Sliding Window, DL8 Mirrors. I came across an opportunity to buy a complete interior that came from a higher trim truck (mainly for the heated/cooled seats is what I wanted) and took this opportunity to give this another shot, considering that I would have a majority of the hardware. Retrofit Requirements: First and foremost - Programming. There is a K40 - Seat Memory Module that lives under the Driver’s Seat. This needs to be programmed to your truck. Programming done by WAMS - www.whiteautoandmedia.com. @GTPprix Thanks for this! The K40 Seat Memory Module was sent off to get programmed to work with my truck/my VIN. Hardware - DL3 Mirrors, DL3 Door Harnesses, DL3 Door Panel Harnesses, DL3 Power Fold Switch (different than the non-Seat Memory Power Fold Switch), DL3 Passenger Window Switch (DL3 Passenger Window Switch has two inputs as opposed to one), Heated/Cooled Seats, K40 Seat Memory Module, Pedal Adjust Memory Motor (still need to source one). Wiring - There is a TON of wiring needed. There are about 10-12 circuits that need to be added to the driver side seat connector X310 (cabin side). These circuits go forward and land in various places (X51L Fuse Panel, X61A Junction Box, Pedal Adjust Motor, Passenger Seat, both Door Jambs (cabin side), Passenger Side Kick Panel). You will also need to access both door jamb (cabin side connectors) to remove circuits that will no longer be used in favor of new seat memory circuits. So, as you can see, you will have to have the ability to overcome this as it can be a bit overwhelming. You will also need to ability to comprehend the schematics differences between Seat Memory versus non Seat Memory. There are several circuit redirects and circuits that get abandoned in favor of new circuits to live in those slots, etc. So…as you can see, this is why it always been understood as “it can’t be done”. I have everything working EXCEPT for the pedal adjust - memory recall. I can manually adjust the pedals using the adjust button on the I/P. The pedal motor is different in Seat Memory versus Non Seat Memory, so I will be exploring that soon. It seems that I am missing a pedal position sensor. This is fully functional now Here is a list of what I gained and what is working: Key Fob Mirror Fold In/Out Reverse Mirror Tilt Mirror Memory Pedal Memory Seat Memory Set Switch 1 & 2, Easy Exit Heated/Cooled Seats on both seats Power Adjust Passenger Seat Power Adjust Driver Seat Driver Seat - Haptic Feedback (when in Reverse) What doesn’t work Pedal Adjust Memory Recall - This is the last piece of this upgrade and is a work in progress. I am exploring the requirements for this. Pedal Adjust Memory Recall works now after installing the Pedal Adjust Position Sensor. $15 on eBay for that. I couldn’t drive my truck for 3 days since the driver seat was moved ALL the way forward when it was removed from the donor truck. This was done to gain access to the rear bolts needed to remove the seat. I was NOT able to get the power adjust on the driver seat to work until day 3 of this project, therefore, making the truck not driveable. I inadvertently had to make a “Seat Memory Bypass, Power Adjust Harness” to be able to move my seats in the meantime. This custom harness bypasses the Seat Memory Module and provides power to the adjust controls. Depending on the need for this, I may make/sell this harness for those without seat memory that want to install these heated/cooled seats, and be able to adjust the driver side. The Driver Seat adjust controls go THROUGH the Seat Memory Module. So until you can get entire system to work, you won’t be able to adjust the driver seat. If you currently have Factory Heated Seats, adding cooled seats is rather simple and is plug and play (no programming required). If you DO NOT have Factory Heat, I don’t know how much more work is needed to gain that. Most likely, you’ll need programming for the K29 Seat Heating Control Module and/or BCM. Since I have Factory Heat, the K29 Seat Heater Module was already present under my factory seat, so to gain cooling for the Driver Side, I only had to land one wire for the Vent Motor from the passenger side over to the driver side. For the most part, the passenger seat was Plug and Play. I was able to quickly gain power adjust on that side since its controls do not interface with the MSM Memory Seat Module). However, you WILL get an airbag warning error because the seat position sensors are all handled by the MSM. Without a fully functional MSM, you’ll have to add the physical Seat Position Sensor to get this error to go away. There is really NO easy way to integrate this. No Plug and Play harnesses that will make this all work. So please don’t ask me about one - LOL. You really need to have an understanding of how to add missing circuits and circuit redirects. I had to redirect circuits in 4 places. I did make 2-3 mistakes in this project. I forgot to land missing circuits (totally missing them) and I landed circuits incorrectly - blowing the pedal adjust fuse. So…you have to be fully prepared if you decide to tackle this project. Here are some photos to share. I also took some video clips of the entire process and will try to put a video together. Enjoy! Dash Swap was done only because I had the seats already out, so might as well swap out my vinyl dash for the leather that came with the interior I bought. Since I had to remove seats and carpet to gain access to the cab side seat connectors, might as well Sound Deaden. Lol. New Comfort and Convenience options! Cab Side - Passenger Seat Connector (X320) Cab Side - Driver Seat Connector (X310) - With my harness loom of new circuits added. The dreaded X61A- Junction Box An impromptu harness I had to make to adjust my driver seat without the MSM working. The impromptu bypass harness. Can’t drive like this. Seat now adjusted to optimal driving position! LOl
  3. 13 points
    Added to the family and took a really good picture with the truck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 13 points
    Yes lots of people have... You take your 2 wheel drive truck to the chevy dealer and pick out the 4x4 truck that you like best, negotiate a price and whatever you lose out on trading in your 2 wheel drive will be much less than the nightmare of trying to upgrade your 2 wheel drive to 4x4 by buying parts....
  5. 13 points
    no, after she was crying, that's what I said she also gave me a very nice treat when she got home if you know what I mean
  6. 13 points
    so i had an idea a while ago... i have been using a 2x8 in the back of my truck as a 'divider' (just sliding it into the little groves on each side of the box). it worked great but i wanted to do something a little 'more'. i came up with 2 layouts that i liked - i ended up going with the bottom one: one of the pieces of equipment i have with my business is a laser cutter, so using taped together file folders i created the template.... put the template on the 2x8.... and transferred all the 'cut outs' i wanted to use a router, but to make life a little easier, i drilled out as much as i could first.... once the drilling was done i screwed plastic jigs to the 2x8 (i made the jigs with the laser cutter, just 1/8" plastic. my thinking was that the little wheel on the top of the router bit would just follow the cut out in the plastic.) it worked great! then use wood filler on all the screw holes... then sand it and get ready to paint.... and here it is... overall i'm really happy with it. the only thing i need to do is go get another can of flat black. i grabbed a can of what i thought was flat but ended up being semi gloss! ha! oh well, will add the final flat coat in the next couple days after i can get to a hardware store if anyone else wants to try the same thing i'll see if i can attach the file i used with my laser cutter... silverado box divider.ai ^^maybe it worked?? it's just an ai file - nothing special. if the above file didn't upload properly and you'd like to try this just fire me a private message with your email address and i'll send the file. the one thing i'd still like to add is a piece of stainless steel to the back side, but just behind the chevy logo - i think that would look sweet. i just need to get to a local metal shop
  7. 12 points
    Finally got decent enough weather to finish dipping. Installed my new carbon fiber mirror caps.
  8. 12 points
    Installed a stars & Stripes headliner in my 16 Silverado 1500
  9. 12 points
    Chevy is about to make a premature ejaculation edition. I have not seen one yet but I heard it was coming soon.
  10. 10 points
  11. 10 points
    Finally got the SuperLift 8” King Suspension lift put on with the Scorpion SC24 22x14 wrapped in some Nitto 35s. Add a leaf and bags are still going in the back.
  12. 10 points
    New socks and shoes. Also did relearn on new TPMS. Thanks to those that helped me with this. You know who you are . This weekend, Headliner is coming down for roof Sound Deadening. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 10 points
    Can’t beat some free Craigslist’s finds! I just happened to finish my fire pit the same day. Lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 10 points
    I use my truck as the proverbial guinea pig to come up with mods for everyone here to enjoy! Otherwise, it just sits in the driveway. Not even a pavement princess. More like a driveway queen. LOL. I work from home and barely use the truck to run errands with a couple of miles from the house. The longest trip was a 3 hour drive south for a College visit.
  15. 10 points
    Finally cracked open my headlights on my 2016 Silverado Z71. The first one took forever to figure out, but the second one was much easier. Baked them at 240 degrees for 20 min the first time then each additional time 240 degrees for 10 min until I was able to crack the entire seal. Once they were apart, it was pretty straight forward. Applied 2 coats of VHT nightshade to everything and sealed back up with silicone. I applied a generous bead where the original seal was and put back together then baked for 240 degrees for 10 min to help cure. Once put back together I put another bead of silicone on the outside of the housing to ensure a tight seal. Washed my truck 2 days later and got rained on last night, no leaks!
  16. 10 points
    Replaced my cubby hole cover plate with the trailer brake cover plate. Then cut out opening for my light switches. Trailer brake cover plate is flatter and accepts switches better with a "factory" like look.
  17. 10 points
    Neither. Look like cheapened and blown up Colorado's and Canyon's. How about more t-r-u-c-k and less bling.
  18. 10 points
    Cut through the crap. Are there rear AC vents in the back seat?
  19. 10 points
    Well finally took the plunge this morning and knocked out my color match. Bow tie comes in on Friday. Just got the bumpers left. Pics below are when I picked it up from the dealership and this morning after the install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. 9 points
    I had a bit of spare time a couple years ago during the hottest week of the year and figured it would be a great time to do some hot weather tuning and while I was at it, a further eval of the cooling system. I collected a bunch of temp data some may find useful. I posted some similar data a couple of years ago but it was limited to a single “after” run with a couple of mods allowing people to pontificate upon what they thought the “before” results would have been with the stock cooling system. Unfortunately side-arguments were started by people who don’t understand how the cooling system works and it overwhelmed the information provided in the thread. So here’s a second try. This time I collected enough data from enough configurations there’s really no room for any argument, just the results, just what the data show. For the sake of simplicity we’ll compare two runs, one run with the completely stock cooling system and the other configuration the one I recommend for those towing heavy loads in the mountains in the summer with 2014+ V8 trucks—with two simple mods, a 180 thermostat and more aggressive fan settings in the tune. Two of the most common tropes on the internet regarding cooling systems are “the thermostat doesn’t do anything as soon as the engine is ‘warmed up’ so it won’t make a difference,” and “the fans don’t do anything at highway speed.” Both are simply very wrong, for a multitude of reasons. While it’s possible to conceive of specific situations in which one or the other modification won’t be of benefit, the vast majority of drivers (probably on the order of 99.999% if both mods are done together) will never run into one of these situations while running hotter than they’d like. The data below speak for themselves. As I’m sure some are wondering, runs were also made with the 180 thermostat and stock fan settings along with the stock thermostat and modded fan settings. The results were unsurprising, showing one mod helpful in some situations, the other mod helpful in others, but neither mod alone fully effective in all situations. Putting the two together makes each more effective and gives significantly improved cooling performance in all situations which is why I recommend both. This post is long enough and will be confusing enough to many readers already so sticking to comparing the two configs for now is probably a good idea. But keep in mind when I explain and attribute parts of the results to one thing or the other, I’m not making it up, I have the data to support the conclusions. Here are the stock fan settings: And with the 180 Thermostat these setting were used: A snapshot close to the top with the stock system: A snapshot close to the top in the modded config: Cliff’s notes results: Those were the peak temps reached by each fluid. As you can see, the modified configuration dropped peak temps across the board by about 20 degrees. Peak temps of course, don’t tell the whole story. Looking at the data in more detail is instructive. Each run was 20 miles up a mountain pass. The first 15 miles has a decent slope with the last 5 miles or so getting pretty steep—more than a 5% grade. The long runs ensure all fluids had plenty of time to be fully warmed up and find their steady-state on the moderate slope before the steepest final five miles. Ambient temps were right around 92 degrees most of the way up the hill on all runs. Also of note, the runs were made with the cruise on 65 MPH in Tow/Haul Mode for most of the way, but on each run the last ½ mile or so required reduced vehicle speed due to traffic at the top of the hill. Here is an elevation profile of roughly the last 10 miles of the run. Each chart only shows the last 10 miles of each run to better show the differences as the first 10 of each is pretty boring and just takes up space. Note this was not intended to be any sort of “ultimate torture” test or “proof test,” indicating success on this test would insure the cooling system can handle anything. I’ve towed heavier loads up longer, steeper passes and many south of here have done that in much hotter weather (but not while collecting data with a laptop). This was a comparison test to show the differences in performance of the cooling system configurations. Temps headed in the wrong direction on this test, even if they didn’t quite get out of control, should be a red flag for more severe use. Coolant Temp: Here you can see that after the first 10 miles of steady state climb (beginning of the chart), the cooling system is doing pretty well in both configurations and the thermostats are not even fully open (thus the ~25 degree advantage for the 180 thermo). That’s pretty good news, especially for those with the stock system who live where it’s flatter and any hills encountered when towing will be of moderate slope and/or length. When the hill gets steep for the last five miles, the cooling system needs to start working much harder. As both thermostats open more fully, the advantage of the 180 thermo of the modified configuration is slowly negated so the temps converge a bit, but the higher fan speeds of that config still give the system more cooling capacity—along with the stock thermostat not being open 100% until the very end of the test. As you can see, even running full blast up the steepest part of the hill, the modified config tops out in temp, reaching a new steady state. The hill could have gone on forever and it would not have gotten any hotter. Then when vehicle speed is reduced, temp comes down immediately. It is clear the fans played a key role with the modded config as the temp rise stops as the fans approach full speed. Programmed to reach full speed at 212 degrees, the temp stops rising 5 degrees short of that, so the fans get cranked up pretty high, but never quite actually get to full speed, indicating there’s still a little cooling capacity left in the system that would require a tougher test to utilize. If it was possible to program the fans to reach full speed at a lower temp (without them running full speed all the time, which I deem unacceptable for general use) it’s very possible lower peak temps would have been maintained with this thermostat. It’s also possible a slightly higher temp thermostat would have resulted in similar peak temps with these same fan settings. But you can’t use these fan settings with the stock thermostat (it's just too high) unless you want them blasting all the time. The temp for the stock config is still climbing when running at full speed and when vehicle speed is reduced to 50 MPH or so, the temp spikes quickly. Had the steep part of the hill been any longer there’s no telling how high the temp would have climbed. It didn’t quite make it to the danger zone in this test but it’s easy to see how it could in a tougher test. I personally have no interest in ever letting my coolant get into the 230-240 degree range and it’s clear with the stock config that would have happened with a heavier trailer, steeper hill or hotter ambient temps. Other vehicles begin going into various protected modes at such temps. For example, the EcoDiesel will begin “defueling” when the temp hits 244 and you’ll begin slowing down to 18-wheeler speed. The modded config on this truck provides a huge margin of safety before reaching such temps. When vehicle speed is reduced, the stock fan settings really hurt the stock setup. It is very common for speeds to be limited by traffic or road safety when towing and this shows that while increased fan speed helps significantly even at 65 MPH, it’s really, really needed at ~50 MPH. In some states there’s a 55 MPH speed limit when towing a trailer and sometimes there’s just too much traffic to go any faster. Many also tow on gravel/dirt roads, mountain trails, etc, where vehicle speed is kept low even when the engine is working hard. For those conditions the fan settings are even more crucial than they were in this test. Given these results, the engine cooling system seems to be more than adequate on these trucks, even without the NHT radiator. All one needs to do is “turn it on” a bit more aggressively with the lower temp thermostat and fans that don’t wait until you’re close to a meltdown before they crank on with some authority. I see no other mods needed for engine temp control in any situation. Oil Temp: Since the oil cooler is an oil/water cooler located in the cool tank of the radiator—so water temps have a direct effect on its effectiveness--it’s not surprising the oil temps stayed proportional to the water temps, beginning about 20 degrees cooler for the modified setup and converging a bit as water temps converged on the steep part. Again, the modified config found a new steady state in the middle of the most difficult part, indicating the hill could have gone on forever and temps would have risen no further. The stock setup, however, allows the oil temp to keep rising until the end of the hill—had the hill gone on another few miles, how much higher would the temp have climbed? 250 degrees on this test indicates it could get really toasty under harder use with the stock setup. For good fully synthetic oil (I run Redline) 250 is no big deal for short periods if infrequent. I don’t worry about the oil temp at all on my Camaro until it exceeds 300…but then again I change the oil on my Camaro after a single day at the track and don’t rack up that many miles on the engine so engine wear is less of a concern. I don’t think many people change the oil in their truck every time they tow something up a hill, so if you’re cooking the oil on a regular basis and still trying to run it 10,000 miles between changes, keeping the temps down a bit might be a good idea. 0W-20 is thin as water at regular temps, at 250+ it simply won’t protect as well as thicker oils of the same type. Yes, it reduces wear at startup, especially in cold weather, but it can’t do that and also be optimum for really high temps—so trying to prevent it from reaching such high temps is a good idea. For those who drive a truck for a couple years before trading it in it might not be so concerning, but for those who want to keep a truck long past the warranty period and put on a lot of miles, reducing engine wear is a smart thing to do. Using the EcoDiesel as an example again, it begins defueling when the oil hits 266 degrees indicating they feel that is very bad for the engine. Given these results, the stock oil cooler shows it is pretty effective. When the water in the radiator is kept to a reasonable temp in the modded config, the oil cooler is plenty adequate for keeping the oil temps in check. I don’t see a need for adding an aftermarket cooler or modding the stock system in any way, just keep the engine from running too hot when it’s working hard. Trans Temp: Here you can see on the moderate portion of the hill, the mods only made a small difference. Since most (or even all in some conditions) of the cooling comes from the air/oil cooler in the system, and the trans fluid cooling system has its own thermostat, lower water temps only have a small secondary effect on trans temps so the engine thermostat change alone won’t do much. And before the trans fluid thermostat is wide open, the increased fan speed only has a small effect. As the trans warms up, the increased fan speeds do help obviously as you can see the results begin to diverge as the hill gets really steep. In the stock config, the temp was climbing quickly all the way to the top. If the hill was longer, there’s no telling when it would stop. While for a shorter period of time than the other fluids, the temp does reach somewhat of a steady state temp in the modded config before vehicle speed is reduced indicating if the hill went on forever the temp should stay close constant. And the temp is low enough even if it gains another couple degrees, it’s a non-issue. The most worrisome part of the results for the stock system is the huge temperature spike at the top of the hill where vehicle speed is reduced. With the fans humming along in the modded config, there is no large temperature spike. This is an especially important thing for people to note who tow at lower speeds as described above. Towing in traffic is especially hard on the transmission as the on gas/off gas nature keeps the converter unlocking and slipping all the time, creating a lot of heat. The same can be said for winding roads/mountain trails. Unfortunately there are not separate fan settings in the computer based upon tranny temp, you need to get them on indirectly by assuming any time the transmission wants to get hot the engine will be warm enough that the modded fan settings I show above will have kicked in. This should work for most situations but it is possible (towing at low speeds, especially in very cold weather) that won’t always be the case. For pure highway towing the mods I listed above should be adequate. Keeping the transmission temps below 210 degrees in a test like this keeps you way out of the danger zone and nothing else is really needed. However, if you do tow at lower speeds a lot it may be worth it to you to add another layer of protection. The easiest way to do that is to bypass the stock tranny fluid thermostat and splice in an aftermarket one. This should have a similar effect as the lower thermostat does for the engine temp—giving it a lower baseline temp 95% of the time and keeping max temps lower by simply “turning on” the trans cooler a larger percentage of the time in mixed use and earlier during sustained hard pulls. I would not recommend simply bypassing the stock thermostat without replacing it with something. There’s really no advantage to running these modern transmissions colder than 180 or so and some disadvantages, especially in winter use. According to the data so far, the stock air/oil cooler seems adequate so I see no reason to advocate adding a larger aftermarket cooler at this point. But I don’t yet have any data for the system with a lower temp trans thermostat or lower speed testing. I’ll probably do that at some point and try to collect data in situations where the above mods might not be enough. Given the testing so far, I do think it would be very difficult to come up with a scenario where the above mods and the addition of a new tranny fluid thermostat are not enough to keep temps under control and wouldn’t advocate going to the hassle and potential downsides of installing a new cooler until some sort of data indicated it was needed. But more testing in this area is needed. Conclusions: For a 2014+ truck with a V8, even with the non-NHT radiator, I conclude the following for towing in hot weather where steep hills/mountain passes will push the cooling system to the max of its capabilities, in stock configuration and with two mods—a 180 degree engine thermostat and reprogrammed fans. Engine temp: In stock config the system is adequate for all but the harshest of conditions (harder than the above test). However there is indication a harder test could drive engine temps dangerously close to overheating, even if it doesn’t get to the point of spewing steam, it will come too close for comfort for many owners. With the two mods, the stock cooling system should be completely adequate for any situation. Engine oil temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep engine oil temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, oil life is reduced, engine wear is increased, etc. With the two mods, engine oil temps are kept in check and the stock system should be adequate for any situation. Trans Temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep trans temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, fluid life would be reduced and transmission could risk damage. In the modded config, trans temps are kept in check and the system should be adequate for any highway-speed condition where transmission heat is due to longer, sustained hard work as the engine temps will also rise triggering an increase in fan speed. The above test does not guarantee the system will be adequate in all lower speed conditions, especially in cold weather where the engine might stay cold enough the fans will not speed up (unless you have them programmed to stay blasting all the time which is not recommended for various other reasons). More testing and possibly other mods required (lower temp trans thermostat, larger cooler if high temps are still reached after that). One caveat for the entire cooling system overall is that these tests were done with the 6.2. It’s reasonable to suspect they might not have been as good (for each config) if tested on a 5.3 which will need higher RPM and lower gears to maintain speed going up steep hills. For a given load and a given hill, the 5.3 just needs to work harder than the 6.2. This does tend to put more heat in the fluids and I believe everybody thus far who has reported here getting warning messages when towing up passes and had to slow down has had the 5.3—even with the NHT radiator. So for concerned 5.3 owners I’d say look at the above results with the fact all temps may have been higher with a 5.3 in mind, making the mods an even better idea for the smaller engine. Another caveat is that this truck does not have those fantastic grill shutters…. I’ve done zero investigation into how those are operated and how much restriction they add even when open. Any restriction to airflow through the radiator only makes fan power more important, so if anything they would result in an even larger difference between the two configurations. One of the more important things this test reveals, is just how lucky we are. GM did a pretty good job on the cooling system of these trucks and big N/A V8’s are generally easier to keep cool than smaller turbo motors. Most never have any issue in completely stock form, and with a couple of simple mods that “turn on” the cooling system a bit sooner, we can work these trucks hard without worry, no matter the load, no matter the ambient temp. Other brands don’t have it so good. Before buying this truck, I was heavily looking at both the Ford Ecoboost and the Ram Ecodiesel. Both of those trucks have serious issues in tests like this. The Ram has it much worse—they run into the defueling conditions even with lesser loads on lesser hills and even in cool weather. It is very unlikely one of those could have completed this test without having to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range ½ way up the hill. They simply aren’t remotely as capable as these trucks are. Some owners spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, different grills for more airflow, etc, but most simply seem satisfied to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range on big hills. They sure do get great mileage though. The Ecoboosts don’t have it quite that bad (they’re much more capable trucks), but they do commonly have issues. Heavy loads up long passes in high ambient temps—especially at high altitude—commonly heats them up to the point they enter “Reduced Engine Power” mode where the engine begins cutting boost until the turbos are basically shut off. Owners of these tucks also spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, etc, but even with all that, nothing seems to “fix” the issue. We don’t need to worry about any of that. Owners commonly force downshifts to increase the engine RPM as a matter of course (sort of negates that whole “low RPM torque tows just like a big diesel” bragging point). Lots of Ecodiesel and Ecoboost owners end up upgrading to heavy duty trucks (usually of the same brand as they are loyal) simply due to frustration of overheating issues when the trucks are worked hard. It’s nice we don’t have to worry about that. Good job, GM.
  21. 9 points
    So I recently bought a 2018 Silverado LTZ z71 Midnight Edition, and the truck was way too nice for my garage. Stains in the concrete, holes in the wall, scuffed up paint....Something had to be done! Finished pic...I still need to paint the door and trim Before Scrubbed Concrete Primed Silver Metallic Epoxy Red Metallic Painted Walls and Ceiling and added baseboards Truck Shot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. 9 points
    Smoked my driving lights, amber turn signals, amber corner markers, and fogs with VHT nightshades. Blacked out my bowtie, Z71 emblem, and chrome bumper valance with plastidip.
  23. 9 points
    If you have a levelled 16-18 with the HID/LED or you added them to your projector lights (reflector light guys aren't exlcuded, it includes you and I) adjust your headlights down. Way to often (this also goes to Ford and other trucks but they aren't on this forum) I get blinded by leveled trucks and their stock lights not lowered. Last night I had some very bright lights in my mirror on the highway for 5 minutes, thought it was someone with their brights on but once it past it was a 16-18 Silverado LTZ with an obvious front level. If I am being blinded in my truck I can only imagine how cars and CUVs are feeling. Don't be the ****, if you level your truck adjust your headlights down, they need it. How many of you actually do it? I am guessing not that many. Before anyone says they are fine and not getting flashed after a level and not adjusting them from stock, they are lying out their tooth. They are all set the same from the factory, you raise your front end 2-2.5 inches (even with an added inch block in back it still is 1-1.5 more inches) that is a pretty large raise in headlight aiming from stock. This also goes for lifted guys too, you are 6+ inches higher than stock... So this is a public service announcement, trun your headlights down. Not only is it annoying it can be dangerous for those with eye issues, elders or those who wear glasses... Tyler
  24. 9 points
    Bought it at 31% off MSRP! 😁
  25. 9 points
    Here it is on the truck. I outlined it in brown but...on black tint it's hard to see. The badge is just for reference. Not to bad I don't think for my first time cutting a decal. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  26. 8 points
    ***VACATION NOTICE*** Folks, I wanted to advise that I’ll be on vacation starting Tuesday 6/12. I’ll be returning Tuesday 6/19. I have a few orders I’m working on filling before I leave and should get those out before I go. I will be accepting/booking orders as I am able to. I’ll also try to respond to PMs as I am able to. I’ll be building/shipping booked orders upon my return as soon as I can. If you order and paid via PayPal, I’ll be using your PayPal email address for the outbound shipment notification so be on the lookout for an email from the USPS. Thanks everyone! ************************** All, Due to the overwhelming interest in folks wanting to upgrade their mirrors, I wanted to start this thread, hopefully, with all the information pertaining to the process of upgrading your mirrors, the different mirror types, the GM supported upgrade path, the non-GM supported upgrade path, what all is involved, and any known issues. I receive about 15-20 PMs daily around this upgrade. I will try to respond to all as I am able to. Please read through this entire 1st post in its entirety as I hope it answers all your questions. I also hope that this thread is your “one-stop shop” for all questions surrounding this upgrade. I have spent MANY months (since June 2016) trying to understand these mirrors and what all is involved to make the upgrade successful. Like many of you reading this thread, you have probably spent countless hours researching online, reading threads upon threads, and watching YouTube videos for some info and guidance. For those that have tried this upgrade on your own, you have probably ended up with the same results of something not working correctly, which ultimately landed you back here on the Forum. I have helped numerous members here achieve the same upgrade desires with success. This started out with me wanting to upgrade the standard DL8 Mirrors on my 2016 Silverado, 1500, LT, CCSB, 5.3L Gas Truck. I have helped members with Standard DL8 Mirrors upgrade to DL3 Mirrors as well as members wanting to upgrade to Towing Mirrors. So, let’s get started… Mirror Types: DE2 Mirrors - These are the basic mirrors found on W/T Trucks. They do not have power anything. They are manual adjust, manual fold, etc. DL8 Mirrors – These are the most common mirrors found on LT/SLE trucks and are the next level from DE2 Mirrors. DL8 Mirrors are Heated, Power Adjust, and Manual Fold. If your truck has 1LT/2LT options, this will most likely be the same mirror. DL3 Mirrors – These are mirrors are the “Premium” version to the DL8 Mirrors that most folks are wanting to upgrade to. These mirrors are typically found on your higher trim LTZ/High Country and SLT/Denali trucks. These mirrors are: Heated, Power Adjust, Power Fold, Turn Signal, Puddle Lamps, and Auto Dim (Driver’s Side). Towing Mirrors – These mirrors are the larger mirrors designed to help with towing. These mirrors can be found as options in some 2500/3500 Heavy Duty Trucks. They come in (2) main flavors. DPN – These are Manually Folding, Manually Extending, Heated, Turn Signal, Cargo (also referred to as Courtesy Lamps), and Clearance Lamps (also referred to as Park/Running Lamps) DQS – These are essentially the same as DPN except they are Power Folding and supports Mirror Memory if your truck has this feature. Aftermarket Towing Mirrors – There are TONS of aftermarket options out there. The result should be the same (for the most part) on the upgrade. The way that manufactures “pin” their connectors, they typically pin them the same as the GM - OEM ones. Watch out for any Manufacture that says they have the “option” of adding a separate harness or connector for added functionality. If it’s not already in the connector, I would stay away from those or contact me for mirror connector customization. [/url] Note: RPO Code - K40 Option (Exhaust Brake) for Diesel Trucks. If you have a Diesel Truck, you will NEED to get the appropriate DL3, DPN, DQS Mirror WITH the K40 Option. This is basically a temperature sensor on the passenger side mirror. Without this, you will get a Check Engine Light (CEL) error come on with an “Ambient Temperature” message on your DIC (Driver Information Center). This is NOT an issue with Gas Trucks. You can install a passenger mirror with the temperature sensor on a gas truck with no issue (I am using a K40 optioned DL3 Mirror on my truck). Here is a video I put together on the entire process. This video covers the following: Removing the Door Panel Removing the Door Harness Installing the Power Fold Switch [/url]GM Supported Upgrade Path – Upgrade DL8 or DL3 Mirrors to Towing Mirrors: There is a GM Supported Upgrade path for those that have DL8 or DL3 Mirrors that want to upgrade to Towing Mirrors. Reference the “Vehicle Acceptability for Retrofit” for details – Document ID# 4174686. Can also be found here. https://www.dropbox.com/s/q4eldhgg2x8i10q/Camper%20Mirrors%20-%2023371780.pdf?dl=0 If you have questions on what RPO Codes your truck has, please check your glove box for details. There are possible BCM and/or Memory Module Calibrations required that can only be done at the Dealer. Please check with your dealer on the upgrade and these calibrations. I do not know what these calibrations actually do. They seem to be the most required on trucks with the A45 RPO (Seat Memory) code. So this applies mainly to LTZ/High Country, SLT/Denali trucks wanting to upgrade to Towing Mirrors. If you are an LT/SLE trim, you shouldn’t need any BCM calibration. You certainly won’t need a memory module calibration, because an LT/SLE doesn’t have Seat Memory and therefore, won’t have a Memory Module. For those that require the RZY Harness – Part # 23387133. Installation instructions can be found here. https://www.dropbox.com/s/pz2y2o9kj02g66p/RZY%20Installation%20Instructions.pdf?dl=0 Installation of the RZY Harness is a very detailed/technical process that requires you to add the missing “pins” to the driver and passenger door hinge connectors (on the body side). It also involves landing the other end of these missing circuits into the BCM (for the turn signals), X61A Junction Box (for the Cargo lamp), and under the hood (through the firewall) into the X50A Fuse Block (for the Park Lamps). This is MOST common on 2014 Trucks and some early 2015 Trucks. You can also confirm this by removing the X500/X600 Door Connector like in the photos below. If you are missing pins, be prepared for some work ahead of you. If you do need the RZY Harness, I created a "How To" Installation Video here: Here is an additional video showing the detail of the RZY Harness. Non-GM Supported Upgrade Path – Upgrade DL8 Mirrors to DL3 Mirrors. For those that have DL8 Mirrors, there is NO - GM Supported upgrade path to upgrade DL8 to DL3 Mirrors. This is a custom application that requires either: A custom DL8 Harness (made by me), a DIY KIT (also made by me) to add the wires yourself, or you can hardwire this yourself using your own methods. Your existing DL8 Harnesses will NOT be pinned for the Turn Signal, Puddle Lamps, Ground, and Auto Dim (Driver’s Side) circuits. I WILL support you in any direction you end up going with. If you try to install the DL3 Harness with your DL3 Mirrors, you will have turn signals, puddle lamps, and heat working. You will lose all functionality of the passenger side mirror and some adjust functionality of the driver side mirror. This is due to the DL3 content differences with how these functions are achieved and based on the A45 Seat Memory option. If you have a Gas Truck, you can use either DL3 Mirror options with or without the K40 (Exhaust Brake) Temperature Sensor. To achieve Power Fold on your DL3 Mirrors, you will need a new Driver’s Side - Mirror Adjust Switch which has the Power Folding option. Part # 23154702 has been the most common part #. This part is a simple drop in and swap out of your existing Mirror Adjust Switch. No other harness modification required to achieve Power Folding. Power Fold options can be added to either the DL3 Mirror upgrade or the Towing Mirror upgrade. Also, there are two variations of the Power Fold Switch - Part # 23154702 and Part # 2348841. As you compare the photos, you’ll notice that the connector portions are keyed DIFFERENTLY. One is symmetrical and the other isn’t. Please do NOT force your connector if you feel resistance. If it doesn’t fit, there is a reason why. If you force the connector (which some people have), you will blow a fuse. For Reverse Tilt (mirrors automatically tilt down when in reverse) and Key Fob Fold/Unfold (ability to fold/unfold mirrors with Key Fob) – These features are supported by the BCM/DIC Options and are not supported in this upgrade. These features are found in the higher trim LTZ/High Country and SLT/Denali models. Note: I am currently testing an aftermarket mirror fold module. If you would like information on that, here is a thread I created for that. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/196138-2016-silverado-lt-fold-your-dl3-mirrors-with-your-fob-like-an-ltz/ 2014 – Known Issue: On 2014 Trucks, there is a known issue where the Puddle Lamp Circuit doesn’t supply the needed 12 Volts to the mirrors to power the Puddle Lamp. When measured, there is only 2.8 Volts being sent by the BCM. This results in a dim puddle lamp. A workaround for this is to perform a “diode mod” from the Dome Lamp Circuit to the Puddle Lamp Circuit. Diode needed is 1N4004. If applicable, I will include a diode for free when you buy my Custom DL8 Harness. Puddle Lamp Diode mod instructions can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ehhoz7vtq8j7g87/Puddle%20Lamp%20Diode%20Mod.pdf?dl=0 WT/LS – Trim Owners: I had the opportunity to work with a few members' truck who were WT, Trims. Trucks had the convenience package. This package has power windows, power mirrors, and power door locks. I can confirm that you can upgrade to DL3/DPN/DQS (or most any other mirror) IF you have power adjust mirrors. I was also able to help one with manual adjust mirrorsCustom Plug and Play Harnesses – $285 Shipped to (50 US States - for Canada, please add $47.95) I offer a Plug and Play harness for either the DL3 Mirror upgrade or the Towing Mirror Upgrade. Custom Harness Set (Driver and Passenger) is $285 Shipped via USPS Priority Mail, Canada - please add $47.95 Each harness is carefully unwrapped, modified, and built like factory using the same gauge wiring and terminals/pins as GM, and rewrapped using automotive harness tape. Auto Dim (Driver’s Side) circuits are added to the Driver’s Side Harness for use on DL3 Mirrors. In the event, you add an Auto Dim Rear View Mirror later, your Driver’s Side Door harness will be already pinned appropriately to support the upgrade. I offer a $100 Core Refund when you send your stock harnesses back to me. Support by me through the entire upgrade process until you have achieved the desired the result. Full Refund (minus shipping) if my custom harnesses don't work. Custom DIY Kit – $65 Shipped (Ships First Class Mail with Tracking - for Canada, please add $10) For those that want to perform this upgrade on your own, I offer a DIY Kit. Kit is $65 Shipped, ships First Class Mail with Tracking. $70 Shipped to Canada This kit will have the pre-terminated wires with the pins crimped according to the application. Instructions created by me, detailing how to perform the upgrade process along with wiring diagrams for Driver/Passenger sides and where to land the wires. You would be responsible to installing the wires/circuits into your existing harnesses. Disclaimer: You are performing this work at your own risk. I will also provide you with ANY information regarding this upgrade even you don't buy from me. My goal is to help everyone achieve their mirror upgrade goals. If you decide to move forward with ANY purchase or if you have additional questions, please let me know. It is helpful to know all the details of your truck to provide the best possible solution. For example: 2016 Silverado, LT, 1500, Crew Cab, 5.3L Gas. Thanks, everyone! Hope to help as many people as I can to achieve this upgrade! Please enjoy this Time Lapse Video to get an idea of what is involved with the customization of the harness. Each set takes about 1hr to modify, plus another hour test. So a completed set is roughly 3 hrs to build and test. How to remove the DL8/DL3 Mirror Caps. How to remove Tow Mirror Caps.
  27. 8 points
    I obviously couldn’t wait to install them. The front was easy but the rear was a pain in the ass! They’re clip on and I’ll be surprised if they fly off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 8 points
    If you haven’t been following the WWDC from Apple, you might have missed some pretty great news today. All of us with CarPlay are getting a pretty big upgrade this fall. They’re letting third party maps programs onto CarPlay! Google maps, waze, etc. sounds like cool stuff is incoming. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  29. 8 points
    Jump Seat to Full Center Console Retrofit Plug and Play Harness by PGAMBOA For those of you looking to swap your Jump Seat to a Full Center Console, I now have a Plug and Play Harness for this upgrade! This long awaited - PnP Harness will allow you to EASILY perform this upgrade. NO cutting or splicing needed! Center Console - Plug and Play Harness is $135 Shipped anywhere in the US. For Canada, please add $47.95. Since there are several versions and configurations of center consoles and truck trim levels, I feel that I have covered a majority of the configurations that are out there. There will be several assumptions on the ability to perform this upgrade and I’ll try to be as detailed and comprehensive as possible. Please see the different USB Cable configuration diagrams at the end. Assumptions: - 2014-2015 Center Consoles will have different USB Cable requirements than 2016-2017 AND will have different USB Hubs. The PnP Harness should be compatible, but you MUST verify the connector under the passenger AND the front of the console! Since this is a custom product, there will be NO REFUNDS on it. - Center Console MUST have its factory harness intact and not modified. - Connection under the Passenger Seat AND Front of Center Console must look exactly like the diagram. There is a variant X314 Connector under the seat, so yours MUST match in order for this harness to adapt. - Additional GM USB Cables must be purchased separately (based on your console year) to get USB Hubs functional. - Wireless Charging - Wireless Charging became available on 2016 and 2017 consoles. If you are looking at adding a Wireless Charging Lid to a 2014-2015 Console, please PM me for requirements. Also, there are known issues with 2016/2017 Consoles with the Wireless Lid and charging iPhone 8 and iPhone X Phones. There are workarounds for this that require some form of modification to the charging module. You can also swap the module for a 2018 Module that DOES charge iPhone 8 and iPhone X phones. Please PM me for questions on specifics. - Your truck MUST have an existing 110V AC Outlet AND (1) - 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Plug as you will be reusing those. My PnP Harness DOES NOT add the 110V AC Outlet if you don’t already have it. However, I CAN add an additional 12V DC Outlet connection if needed. - USB Cable connections will come from your HMI (Behind the Glove Box). You MUST verify that you have the USB Ports available, otherwise, your USB Hubs will not work correctly. - This PnP harness DOES NOT add any Car Play, Apple Play, or Android Play functionality. If your truck did not already come with it, you will not gain it. With this PnP Harness, you ***should*** have ALL the components in your console functional. Those options include: Front of the Console: Front - Left USB Hub (Dual USB - 2016/2017or Triple USB Hub 2014/2015 - Uses my Plug and Harness AND a USB Cable from the HMI Front - Left 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses existing connections (truck must be equipped. If not, I can custom add this if needed) Front - Right 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses my Plug and Play Harness Front - Right 110V AC Outlet - Uses existing connections (truck must be equipped) Inside Storage Compartment: Inside - Left 12V DC Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector Inside - Right USB Hub - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged in the front main 42-Way Connector and USB Cable Inside - LED Lamp - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector Wireless Charging Lid (2016-2017 only) - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector Rear of the Console: 12V DC - Cigarette Lighter Outlet - Uses my Plug and Play Harness plugged into the front main 42-Way Connector THERE IS A LOT TO CONSUME HERE, SO PLEASE PM IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ON THIS. I WANT ENSURE THAT YOU UNDERSTAND ALL THE REQUIREMENT FOR THIS RETROFIT BEFORE PURCHASING. 16-Pin - Plug and Play Harness 23-Pin - Plug and Play Harness
  30. 8 points
    Flip Down - Rear Screen Entertainment (RSE) Retrofit done today. As if taking the headliner down wasn’t nerve racking, try taking an exacto knife to it. LOL. It’s coming along quite nice! Made my own harnessing for it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  31. 8 points
    Swapped out the chrome bumper for the high country painted with fogs bumper. Before: After:
  32. 8 points
    Finish installing the dashboard and doors panel trim pieces with painted gloss black trim. Turned out a lot better than what I thought since I had them as extras I still have the gray ones just in case.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  33. 8 points
    As stated, I did a coolant flush at 75k on my '14. Few lessons being the first time doing this on the newer K2XX trucks. 1- The owners manual states 5yrs or 150k, whichever occurs first for a coolant change. I'm at 75.5k and 41 months. Even that was too long of an interval. I've been running an external coolant filter which I change the filter every year, but even so, the one compartment of the coolant bottle toward the back of the truck, had crusty 'stuff' built up on the walls. I took the tank out and hose it out beyond belief but could not get it 100% clean. The tank overall had a film on the inside. Similar to algae on the inside of a fish tank that needs cleaning. I bought a new ACDelco tank last night online. Moral of the story here is the overflow tank probably needs removed and hosed out probably every 12 - 18 months to keep this build-up at bay. 5yrs/150k my arse. The barnacle like crap was at the liquid level line. The algae layer was throughout. Hosing the tank out cleaned the algae film but the barnacles would not come out. Plus the one compartment you cannot hose out. It's a baffled compartment. Hence the new tank. 2- Even though I check the coolant for electrolysis at every oil change, it doesn't mean much with dexcool from what I have seen. That is not a good indicator of it's performance. My truck's coolant even up to yesterday before the change showed almost no electrolysis voltage at all; literally 0.03V. I have the same coolant kit on both my '14 and my '89 K5 Jimmy. I change both filters at the same interval, 1yr. On my K5 it works like a champ. Cleaning up the system, picking up debris etc. But that truck is running Prestone Green, not dexcrap. And the underside of the coolant filter base is clean as a whistle in the K5. Yesterday I noticed while taking the coolant filter off my '14, the underside of the filter base was heavily corroded. To the point where I removed my coolant filter system from my '14 due to the heavy corrosion of the coolant filter base. The filter base is carbon steel. I painted the exterior of them flat black, but obviously the inside portion where the filter mattes to it is uncoated steel. Again, the K5's is clean steel 2yrs in the making. The 14's looked horrific. So rather than buying a $27 coolant filter every year for my '14 I will put that money toward doing coolant flushes more frequently. But the point here is the DexCool was so weak in the anti-corrosion department the filter base steel corroded to S**T. So that's all the proof I need for 5yr 150k mile coolant. 3- The radiator drain plug is very accessible on the passenger side, under the lower hose so you do not have to remove the lower hose like on other vehicles. What I did learn is you have to remove both heater core hose from the block on the front right part of the engine. This is the only way to remove the water from the block. Also remove the coolant tank as the rear-ward compartment will not drain. I even removed the 1" hose from the coolant tank, that compartment still holds water. So remove the tank and drain all the water out of it and remove the heater hoses from the block. THEN I used a 6HP shop-vac to suck the water out of the block from both heater connections at the block. I shopvaced everything out. Block, coolant 1" supply hose, you name it. I pulled about 2-3 gallons of water out of the system by doing that. The radiator only will drain about 1-1.5 gallons. 4- For flushing, I put the garden hose in the overflow tank for clean water supply. Remove the radiator drain plug completely. The Tstat overflow 5/16" gets disconnected from the coolant tank and dumps on the ground. Turn the hose on just enough to keep the water level stable in the tank. Run the truck to get it up to operating temp and make the T-stat open. Turn heater on, fan on low speed. I ran the truck for about 20 minutes like this with some 2,500rpm runs to help warm it up and push water through the system. 5- See Item # 3 for ensuring the system is evacuated and you've removed all the water. Then fill with 50/50 Prestone Dexcool. I buy it at walmart for $12/gal vs $20/Gal ACDelco stuff online. After seeing the terrible performance the factory coolant did protecting the coolant filter base steel, I see no reason to buy the ACDelco coolant. Prestone has never performed bad for me. So moving forward I will be removing the coolant tank and hosing it out to prevent barnacles. The complete flush and fill will go no longer than 3yrs/36k as with green stuff recommended intervals. Lesson learned.
  34. 8 points
    Paint correction done Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  35. 8 points
    2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab LT Z71 4x4. Only additional options were the 20" wheels, center console w/ wireless charging and the trailer brake controller. Love it!
  36. 8 points
  37. 8 points
    After hours of searching for an under seat storage system that would work with my factory sub, I finally decided to make my own storage box. With some 5/8" scrap plywood, "L" brackets, automotive carpet, and a couple hours of measuring with cardboard mock ups, here are the final results.
  38. 8 points
    i did this with a 2x8, a router and some paint....
  39. 8 points
    Warm enough to use the foam cannon today! Not bad for 95k miles!!
  40. 8 points
    You’ve been asking and we’ve been listening. Granted it took longer than anyone would have liked we are changing up our operations a bit to hopefully make things easier on everyone; especially the consumer! While most don’t know we have run the commercial side of our business during the week and the consumer side on the weekends as basically two separate entities and methods of communication. This has led to traditionally very happy third party resellers with their private branded products but also some unhappy consumers finding it hard to contact us outside of our consumer weekend business hours. That all changes today. Effective immediately we have merged our two communications channels and will be taking correspondence every day while we fine tune this. Please keep in mind it may take some time to get to inquiries now but rest assured we’ll do our best to get to each and every one as soon as humanly possible; please keep in mind we also need time to process orders J Also we are adding two more consumer processing windows to our weekday operations in addition to our weekend processing days; Monday’s and Thursday. So what does this mean to you? How we are handling the weekday consumer orders is basically if you are shipping in something that does not inhibit you using your vehicle (such as a Denali instrument cluster upgrade for example) please ship immediately after ordering as arrival day doesn’t matter as much. We will in turn process the unit as fast as the current workload allows but nine times out of ten no later than the following weekend. Full custom items e.g. Escalade cluster retrofits may take longer than one weekend as they are very labor intensive. For items that could potentially make driving your vehicle more difficult/full custom/rush orders you will still need to setup an appointment with us just to make sure we are all on the same page and can get to your order in a timely manner. We are also looking into the idea of possibly using other avenues of communication for our consumer market as well e.g. iMessage etc. I cannot stress enough how much we appreciate your continued support as we celebrate our 15thyear in business!!
  41. 8 points
    I don't consider stuff coming from Canada or even Mexico to be true imports, they are after all in NORTH America..
  42. 8 points
  43. 8 points
    A few weeks ago I added the 3 led lights that were install in the only 2016 Silverado LTZ Special Ops Navy edition, in case anyone is interest it’s possible. Check it out.!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  44. 8 points
    That's why there is a speed limiter. You blew your truck up, no one else. Poor quality on GM? No. Poor decision making on your part.
  45. 8 points
    Not exactly done to it, but it helped me retrieve my harvest today.
  46. 8 points
    Take it or leave it. Things I’ve done that made a measureable improvement were: 1.) Alignment. It was in spec…sort of…but far from perfect. Optimized. 2.) Bed Cover. Lund soft roll up. 3.) Scan Gauge II. It’s easier to modify your driving habits if you can see the cause and effect relationships and get instant feedback. Pavlov’s dog. 4.) Make yourself comfortable. Seriously. It helps. 5.) Get anal about tire pressures and run street all season tires. 6.) Covered the top third of the radiator inlet. (weather and load permitting) 7.) Ester based lubricants and heat management. 8.) Never be in a hurry. No place I need to be I didn’t start for five minutes earlier than I needed to. Life time (50K miles) calculated average is over 26.5 MPG. My average day includes little town driving. Things that hurt mileage people do every day. 1.) Lift kits 2.) Removing the front air dam. 3.) Oversized wheels and tires that stick outside the body. 4.) Light kits that are outside the trucks silhouette. 5.) Tow mirrors when you don’t tow. 6.) Tail gate nets or running with it down/removed. 7.) Under inflated tires to soften the ride. 8.) All Terrain tires on trucks that never leave the street. 9.) AFM elimination.
  47. 8 points
    Trading your truck in for a car is the easiest, quickest and most cost efficient way to get more mileage. [emoji1362] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  48. 8 points
    Rough Country 2.5 leveling kit on current truck with 295/60R20 Cooper STT Pro
  49. 8 points
    Got these decals from this sites store and so far really like them. Really easy to install, much cheaper than black decals, and you can get them in almost any color. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  50. 7 points
    Here is my How To Video on how I was able to retrofit these Articulating (Tri-Mode) Running Boards onto my 2016 Silverado LT. I'll have a complete parts list here shortly. Enjoy the video for now!
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