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I would love to be 45 again. My daughter turns 45 this year. Finally got to drive a GMC with the 4.3 (just window shopping while the boss was in the mall). Have to agree it's an impressive motor. It would spank anything from the 80's or 90's.

Been retired for awhile now and remember growing up in the late 60's during the muscle car wars. Anybody else in that category? My overall point is I am surprised how many complaints there are about the power these engines put out. Take the 5.3 for example: 355 HP from 325 cubic inches. That's 1.1 hp/cube! That's pretty darn good. Back in the old days 1 HP per cubic inch was the Holy Grail for performance engines and took some serious work to get there. My 2015 with the 5.3 (6 speed) has great acceleration and very good mileage. I guess it's all in what your used to. Any and all comments or insults are welcome.

There’s the Grumpy I like.....

Tough to get a good pic in the dark. Led brake light in the middle of each horseshoe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice truck! Ok - if you already have DPN mirrors, you would be the rare case in which you WON’T need a harness swap providing the following is true. - All 3 lighting functions of your current DPN Mirror work (Turn Signal, Cargo Light, Running Light) - You Get GM - Power Fold DQS Mirrors. The switch part # you’ll need, is 23154702. Since you confirmed you have 23154700. If you decide to go with 1A Auto Mirrors, specifically 1AMRP01790, the same is true, except this mirror set has a bonus Puddle Lamp. Your harness will not have the circuit to drive this puddle Lamp. Also, there will be some light rewire needed to drive the same 3 lighting circuits. Out of the box, they are not pinned like factory. See pic. The orang wire in the this pic is the their puddle lamp. The light shines downward and shines white. The blue wire is the Amber running light. So... to answer your question, if you go with 1A, you’ll need a custom harness build (which I can make for ya), a couple extra pigtails to land the blue wire (which I also supply). If you go with GM - DQS, no harness swap needed. If you need a source for either mirror set, let me know. I will have a set of the exact 1A mirror you’re looking at next week (customer buy back). Also, I have a direct contact to a GM Supplier that has special referral pricing for the GM DQS Mirrors. Lastly, the mirrors are built differently (as far as how they mount). PM me for any more info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

G'day everyone. I'm a new member and owner of a 2017 Silverado LT 2500HD. I love the truck but, as so many others here have said, the mirror selection sucks from the factory. I need to replace the stock tow mirrors (DPN) with the power folding mirrors (DQS). I basically know what parts to get, but need help to complete the list so that I have everything available and not have to go threw the "DOH" phase and order while in the midst of replacing the mirrors. I've watched the videos and I have no problems with the process. Would I be able to swap the chevron turn signal from the old mirror to the after-market mirror? The chevron is a cool factory item. Here is what I have so far (don't laugh, it's a really short list): 1AMRP01790 - 2017 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD with RPO Code K40 from 1A Auto What harness (if any) would I need? What Power Fold Switch - Part # 23154702 or Part # 2348841 would I need. I currently have the 23154700 Anything else I should know? Thanks!

You completely missed the point. They are no longer cooled. They are (now) only ventilated.

That's why you've got better acceleration when you push the pedal in a steady motion, than to hammer the paddle to the floor. At least with carbureted engines. so long j-ten-ner

It’s difficult to do when the truck transitions for v4 to v8. I’m going to load stock tune with AFM off and see if it does it. If it doesn’t I’m contacting Diablew. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have no issues with the fact that stabilatrac will cause issues on the ice. However Abs does not cause problems on shear ice. The issue with not being able to steer because of abs??? Get of the brakes and steer. No different than without abs. If wheels are locking up without abs you have to get off the brakes and steer. If the abs is engaging release the brakes and steer. With Stabilatrac turned off and tc turned off. This should not be an issue? stabilatrac comes back on over 35mph. so sheet ice conditions this could be a problems in flat areas where you can travel faster than this. We all bought new trucks for one reason or another. And We should have all known what the specs and abilities of the truck were before the purchase? Am i wrong? LOL>

I would be ok with that but the second it squeeks rubs rattles or makes some weird ass sound Id burn the truck down lol. I hate interior noises like that Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Well i could maybe make it

One thing the cavity wax will do that paint and bedliner paint can’t do is penetrate into the pinch welds and harden to seal out water and salt.

Spraying the back side can’t hurt as long as you’re careful not to plug any of the drain holes. The problem with the rockers is they are a blind cavity that water and salt get into and if they aren’t protected internally and flushed out after salt exposure, they end up rusting thru like yours. If your rockers have plugs in them similar to my ‘16, it’s a good idea to remove them a couple times a year and flush out the rockers to clean out the salt and dirt. I neglected to do that until it was too late on my ‘08. I was shocked when I did and I saw dirty, rusty water pouring out of the drain holes for several minutes.

I did both the trans cooler lines on my 2010, and it was a pain and I wouldnt DIY it again, I'd just pay someone with a lift. I bought the oil cooler lines too but never got around to doing them before I sold the truck. You have to pull the axle to do the oil cooler lines (at least on the NNBS), which is why I never did it. I still have the lines sitting in my garage taking up space. These lines are prone to leaking, and my oil cooler lines started weeping at about 50k on my 2010 and I sold it with 90k with no worse leaking, so I wouldn't worry about it totally failing on you anytime soon.

Hello everyone, I bought the wife a new (leftover) 2017 Tahoe LT back in mid December. Its fairly loaded, 5.3 with 3.08's. We got a good discount over 10k off sticker and a great trade in on her 2013 Equinox with 90k miles. I had been researching Tahoe's and Yukon's for the past 6 months, so i was aware of some of the issues this platform has experienced. Well, I am happy to report that this Tahoe has been absolutely flawless! No shakes, no thumping, nothing but smooth and quiet. The wife has adjusted to the larger size and has put almost 1800 miles on it. Pros: Great paint, fit and finish very good. Sound system very good. Good power and pick up even with the 3.08's. Cons: Headlights are quite dim, especially low beams. Fuel mileage a bit exaggerated, only averaging 16 mpg with a fair amount of highway driving. Don't think the advertised 21mpg highway mpg could ever be achieved. All in all we are extremely happy with this and hope to get many trouble free miles out of it. Flattop

Far out! Thanks man. Will need to try that. I like the idea of the “tag song” feature. I usually take a screenshot when something comes up that I want to download, but this should be much easier [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just last week a 88-98 Chevy Reg Cab Short Bed Stepside was getting on my nerves while on the expressway. Waayyyyyy too loud of an exhaust and guy enjoyed blipping the gas. Finally got fed up and gassed my truck. Guy floorboarded it but he let off once I got a 8+ truck length lead. No comparison between 420 and 200-250 Horsepower. I had a regular cab 91 GMC stepside 350 with headers, CompuCam, true duals, Hypertech Chip and it was pretty good back then. Now a V6 Camry or 2.0L Turbo Accord would blow it off the road with ease.

Good Luck. I just took my 18 6.2l in with 1500 miles leaking coolant drivers side rear of the motor by oil filter. Dealer called back and they think its the head or head gasket. They wont know until they tear it apart. I went in to get glasses out of the truck since it was going to be an extended stay at the dealer. Head was off and they think its the head bolt but they aren't sure. It was very unsettling seeing the engine already torn apart on a new truck. It makes me wonder how long I will actually keep this truck. I know this isnt the same as yours but I understand.

Haven't seen that yet! I'm always game for "Not the norm" but ended up ordering the rigid bracket, D-ss PRO, (driving pattern) and the above mentioned adapter. Should be here Mon. If you get into that lets see it! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

$450 at the Stealership I bought it from Another wanted $600 Aftermarket was $499.

lol this one made the rounds in our office last week. We have two "new" daddy's and a soon to be mom sitting there. so long j-ten-ner

Not without chains at least. Thats some pretty deep and looks mostly fluffy. Are trucks even legally allowed on snow mobile trails in NH? I saw those online and they looked nice but on the truck, damn. They look fantastic!

I find it kinda amusing. I wouldn't mind if my truck had 500hp. But I don't need it. Yes, I consider my '13 with 315hp very sufficient. All the talk about more hp is only about "knowing". If someone is asking what kind of truck they drive, they can answer (cool and with a slight trace of boredom): "....Chevy....V8.....you know....". And his buddy "knows". so long j-ten-ner

1. Open drawer where sticker is located. 2. Remove sticker from drawer. 3. Unfold sticker.

theres a big advantage in having a manual trans over an auto. if you go on a trip it doesn't dowmshift on every single little hill. you control the downshift. any body that drives where its hilly will attest to the amount of downshifting. especially when the trans starts searching . with a stick you never have to listen to 5000 rpm and shifting up and down, driving you crazy. manual mode just selects top gear. nothing else, it will downshift two gears easily. It doesn't sound like manual mode at all. why cant we control whats going on in our own truck that we shelled out $50000 plus. do you all want self driving trucks.if you want to own an hd pickup, you should you should learn to drive and back it up. don't rely on gm or ford or dodge to do it for you, the engineers have no idea what drivings about. they only care about there job. not americans. they should make them work on a truck before releasing it. they would be much simpler. bring back the manual trans!

Thanks I’ll take some better sound shots tomorrow Exhaust place was closing up and i just wanted to drive it [emoji13] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Best advice I can give is find the holster that works best for you. Everyone is built different or has a unique take one what works best for them. There are some things that are just junk, and junk has a way of getting you killed. Just keep that in mind and the rest will sort itself out.

Don't know on the DI engine, but sounds like a lack of fuel to me. Had that happen a lot back in the old mechanical fuel pump and carburetor days. Only had it happen once on the 2001 Sierra, was a clogged fuel filter.

Got stuck. Ended up needing a front loader to come get me out. Learned the hard way trucks don’t belong on snow machine trails Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For anyone else experiencing similar issues, I finally fixed my P0300! Compression checked out OK, so I ran a fuel pressure test - should have done that earlier. The test revealed pressure of 47 PSI, which leaked off after the fuel pump stopped running. I check the vacuum tube connected to the fuel pressure regulator, and it was full of gas. I put on a new FPR, and problem solved! No more hard starting, no misfires! Moral of the story: Check your fuel pressure.

I had my doubts when I purchased this the other day but once I threw it on, I loved it! Also didn't realize GM made the illuminated bowtie in gold.

Work has officially started today!!!

There are those who buy in to the BS.

Put some new spyder tail lights on. Yeah it’s snowing pretty good too. Love the lights though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I guess this topic will help people look at the tires when they are on the lot looking at trucks.

You are way overestimating the Stibilitrac and G80, G80 goes back to 1 wheel peel over 30mph and even Stibilitrac says no go when you try to do a donut. When I am in deep snow I need the truck to dip and slide to find traction, I don't need Stibilitrac fighting me the whole way.

I was able to complete the installation of the Cadillac Escalade engine cover back in October. I refinished it in black metallic. The GMC emblem is for a Terrain 12620296. My '17 did not have the mounting studs. They were 11611691. The Escalade engine cover is GM 12643295. The Chevrolet emblem is 92068693. .

Power to user devices remain on for 10 minutes and then shut off. 10 min cut off was added to that generation (or before) to cut down on battery drain problems. Pull key, sit in car with dome light on. When light turns off, see if your symptoms remain. Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

I am just glad that it generated some interest (good or bad interest) hopefully a lot of people will look it up and possibly listen to the entire speech. (doubt it) Did your ever see the Tonight Show "man on the street"? way too many people just drifting through life, they can tell you every move snookie makes but do not know who the president of the United States is and probably know little to nothing about MLK LOL.

We got a 2017 Tahoe Premier in Feb 2017. Got nearly $10k off sticker, also. We haven't had any issues whatsoever with it. It's close to 15k miles to date and the wife really enjoys it. I can't comment on the headlights, as we have the HIDs and they have been great. I still don't quite know the reasoning the trucks don't have near the equipment options and features the Tahoes and Suburbans do. I suppose it could be the wiring, etc as some say, but things like push button start, auto high beam, heated rear seats should be able to be added without much change. Honestly, the trucks 1500 and 2500 should have the interiors (options)of the SUVs without question.

Nothing PC about it. Rather most of the SJW/PC crowd is pretty salty about it. Some clueless marketing type used a speech that went on to criticize taking on excessive debt to purchase a new vehicle. Regardless, Ram grew more than Chevy last year and GMC sales were down so I seriously doubt Ram is hurting for customers. Having owned two Jeep products I think FCA has terrible quality but moving vehicles is not an issue. Take off the fanboy glasses now and then.

Why do we need a Raptor fighter? The sales are so low of those things it's not worth the $$$$ to get into that competition.

Comes down to this, You are considerate of other drivers/people or you aren't. You are part of the problem or part of the cure. I prefer to be considerate rather than an a$$.

Made a huge mistake buying my '17 Sierra Double Cab. Needed the 6.5 bed and figured I'd compromise on cab size to save a few bucks. After close to a year of remorse my dealer gave me a great opportunity to go back in time and buy what I should have from the start!

Hope they fix your truck Foghorn17. Check your oil? What a concept. When I read the posts that the low oil light came on I wonder how is the owner smart enough to have a job to afford the truck. Sorry to be so frank. I just don't comprehend how checking your oil isn't a routine like brushing your teeth. Simple, easy to do. The masses prove to me that this is one fault of many. Here in Colorado the state implemented a fine for drivers traveling I-70 into the mountains mainly to go skiing for having bad tires. These people were causing traffic jambs because they couldn't move and accidents. Saw a car the other day with donuts for tires. Ruining rotors and drums because you didn't put pads or shoes on. The list goes on. Owners manual? Scheduled maintenance? OK, I'm done.

Just send an email to [email protected] requesting a Build Sheet (give them your VIN). Usually they reply within a few hours with a nice PDF file listing the actual build date/plant/options for your vehicle. I have done it on 3 or 4 vehicles recently (even a used one we were about to buy to see if the dealer listed all the options correctly). They are very helpful!

1 x 6500k left.... If interested let me know!

Hi, guys. New member here, but just wanted to give some info on leveling and tire size that will rub, or not rub if you have the stamped steel control arms. Sorry if this has been covered in the thread previously, but up until a few weeks ago, I couldn't find a definitive answer on the net concerning this. It seemed that some people said their setup would rub and others said it wouldn't, but it was unclear if they meant it wouldn't rub after they modified the inner fender, etc. So, I'm here to let you know definitively my story, my setup and confirm that if the same parts that I used are purchased, there will be no rubbing on a 1500 Sierra 4x4 with stamped steel control arms. So, here goes my story: About a month ago, I bought a new 2018 All Terrain, with the intention of leveling and adding the largest M/T tire that would fit without issues. I poured a lot of time into researching the subject on forum after forum, prior to my purchase and decided that the Rough Country 2.5 in lift (with the rear blocks) would work for me. This kit appealed to me because of the ease of installation (I thought) and the fact that I'd be doing it alone in my garage. Next I decided that the 285/55r20 maximum tire size (according to RC) was not enough larger than the OEM size for my taste, so I began to research that topic. This is where the water got muddy with what will work and what won't work without the tire rubbing the stamped UCA's. I ended up ordering a set of 295/55r20 Toyo Open Country M/T's for a smoking price of 1360 bucks, a set of 1/4 inch spacers and the lift on the same day. The tires arrived first and my initial thought was how wide they looked. I put them aside and waited for my lift. The lift came in a few days later and the first thing I noted was that there was no top spacer blocks, just a couple of donut rings. I quickly found out that RC fails to tell you, if you have the stamped control arms, you must remove the struts, compress the strut spring, disassemble the strut and install the donut spacer under the spring, then reassemble. So, it was off to Auto Zone for their loaner spring compressor. I'll just say that it worked, but the stress that the strut spring put that tool under was unbelievable and I wouldn't do that job at home again. The threaded rods looked like bananas once the spring was compressed enough to reassemble with the spacer. The rear blocks went in pretty easily except that the head of the spring bolt had some difficulty going into the RC rear blocks. Not sure if it was the paint on the blocks, but I eventually had to lower the truck's weight onto the blocks so that the head of the bolt would pop into the block. Next I installed the 1/4" spacers on all four corners and checked clearance. I found the stock tires almost touching the UCA's at full lock after the lift and spacers were installed. So I did some measuring and figured 1-1/4" spacers would do the job and the excess length on the factory studs sticking out past the spacer would fit inside the OEM wheel pockets. No need to shave the studs. I decided after more research that Bora had the best reviews and it's only money, so I dumped another 250 bucks into the project. What else can you do at this point? While I was waiting for my spacers to be built and shipped, I had my tires installed. Not by Walmart I might add, because they won't install tires more than 2% larger than OEM specs for your vehicle. What a bunch of pricks. Last Saturday afternoon, my spacers arrived and I went to work right away, installing the spacers. They fit perfectly and are both hubcebtric and wheelcentric. The result was that the tires are nowhere close to touching the UCA's - at least and inch away at full lock, but only about 1/16" from touching the felt liner at the rear of the tire on the right side while turning right and the left side when turning left. I ended up drilling a 3/16 hole in the bottom lip of each liner and using zip ties to secure them back to the body mount. Now there is enough room to clear easily, no rubbing, no cutting, no stud shaving or NorCal mod needed and it's totally undetectable. So to recap, if you have stamped steel control arms, you can run without a doubt, a RC 2.5" level/lift (plan on removing and disassembling the struts), 295/55r20 Toyo Open Country M/T's on OEM 20" wheels with no rubbing, but you have to install spacers (no less than 1-1/4" unless you want to cut the factory studs) and tie back the rear inner fender felt. Sorry for such a long story, but this whole process has taken a month to finish up and there's a lot to tell. I'm picking my truck up today from the alignment shop, who said that the front end was completely out of whack after the level kit, so an alignment is definitely needed ASAP after you level. A few pics of the final result taken after the spacers were installed. Sorry for the crappy pictures, but it was dark outside and just took these to send to my son. I can take a few more in daylight hours if anyone is interested in how the end result looks.

Look..I'm new here but so far, all I have seen from you guys is sympathy and no actual solution(s). Correct me if I'm wrong.