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hey lapoolboy why don't you just change out the surface mount LEDs on your dash cluster - it's not hard. i did that on mine and the results were fantastic.... and i had zero soldering experience before attempting this (i actually had to go buy a soldering iron/gun! ha!) here is my stock dash... added an inlay from usspeedo.com..... pulled the dash cluster and changed surface mount LEDs to blue... and the final product.... i absolutely love the dash - i think it looks really good the surface mount LEDs were from oznium.com.... https://www.oznium.com/plcc-2 **order some extra... i'm glad i did (like i said earlier... i had never done anything like this before but i got the hang of it pretty quick!)

I got mine free, the customer stated there was a bump in the top of it. I searched all over and couldn’t find what he was talking about. Anyway, I replaced it and held onto the part for 30 days until GM states it can be disposed of and I took it for my truck. Win! [emoji1417] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LMFAO a new Ram? Bottom of reliability list huh? Good luck hahaha

I would try taking the truck off a huge jump, the temporary lack of gravity might cause it to float up

Two kids in college, we no longer needed 3400 sq ft (didn’t need it five years ago, honestly). Signed a contract to sell on a Thursday, asked realtor to wait til Monday before putting a sign or MLS listing. Tuesday we had a signed contract for 98% of my asking price. WHAT DO WE DO NOW?!. We rented a month ($1500) and after a diligent search, found a great place that’s home. It’ll work out. Have faith. (Real faith!)

Remember how a company called Lamborghini started building road cars. Well, story goes, Ferrucio found out the clutch Ferrari used in his Ferrari, which kept going out, was the same as the tractors he built........And the rest is history. Story, whether its true or not, knowing something is better than nothing at all. Yesterday I had to buy a cushion for the brake switch on my Corolla. Amazon, 12 to 20 bucks. Holy heck, Dealership 1.72.

Interesting statement sir. You are correct, there isn't. However I can find no confidence in ignorance either. When I know the truth choices become easier to make and less fraught to error. You can ISO till the cows come home and it won't make what is now called a Homelite what it once was. (Thank you Jsdirt). What can be done is to recognize it for what it is and use it accordingly. Kind of like owning a 30/40/50's English half liter motorcycle. They are also relatively trouble free IF you don't expect and treat them like they were built to 21st Century Honda spec's and they are a great source of education. Much joy can come from that. They make me smile. Great examples of using knowing to defeat what you have no control over. Universal Joints for the mid 70's Corvettes came in a red box and at that time cost about $90 each. There are six. The center carrier universal for a one ton truck is the same universal in a blue box for $7 a piece, (at the time). Even carried the same part number to the last digit. There was even a parts interchange book published by the Corvette Club. Some things were flagrant. The original SBC had exactly two water pumps...ever. Long shaft or a short shaft. But the unknowing would belly up to the parts counter and say "I need a water pump for a L48 Corvette 1976 with air" and get changed something like $60 OR you could ask for a short shaft water pump for a 59 265 and be out of there for $19.

This thread is hilarious. Just admit it, you're attacking the poor kid because you think its a waste of money and you want to flex your technical knowledge because that makes you feel as though you assert your opinions of whats wrong with todays world. Meanwhile, no assertion was made about performance gains, at all. Just stated an observation. And he was right, they DO have lower resistance... LOL what you choose to do with that information is fine, but leave the poor kid alone. I'm going to buy a set just to piss everyone off lol

At least they were honest about being worthless assholes.

I've heard similar stories over the years from people who worked in other lines of business. Yeah, I agree - NOTHING is what it used to be. Homelite used to be the king of chainsaws ... now, it's just a homeowner brand manufactured at the cheapest price point. You'd be lucky to get 2 years of heavy usage out of one. In the day you could use a Homelite on a logging operation, and it would last you years. I have repaired and sold a few 35+ year old Homelites that still worked as good as the day they were sold (after a carb clean, thanks to today's ethanol). On that note, none of our cars or trucks are what they used to be either. All "throwaway" items today, it seems. SKF created Volvo cars way back. Used to be the king of ball bearings. Ford bought them, and GM bought Saab - I believe because their products were "too good". Once they got them down to the level of "quality" they wanted, both companies dumped each brand. Saab is gone, and Volvo is nothing like it used to be. What a world we live in!

We don't, unfortunately. It's common knowledge that the parts available on the assembly line are of MUCH better quality than what you or I can buy after the fact. In my experience with my own truck, that is blatantly obvious. When there's money to be lost by a big company, you can bet they'll take the necessary precautions to avoid that (warranty payouts). When there is zero incentive, then they build the parts as they see fit - usually the CHEAPEST way possible. That said, there are trends. We all know Dorman and Cardone have the highest levels of failure & poor manufacturing. Moog, SKF, and others are at the top ... and these days being at the top doesn't mean it's "failure free". The amount of DOA "new" parts today is staggering. If the public only knew how much they were being screwed, they'd be in D.C. with torches and pitchforks.

On the interstate I keep my speed locked in at 70mph to save gas and to keep the state troopers in check. The other day a friend of mine needed a ride to pick up his vehicle as they were closing soon. I got on the interstate and pushed it up to 80mph. The whole truck was shaking very bad. I slowed down until the shaking stopped. (70mph) I gradually increased speed. When I reached around 76mph the shaking started. My brand new truck had almost 6000 at the time. Being really pissed, I dropped off my friend and went home and got on my computer and googled shaking 2017 chevy silverado. I found this site and saw where many others were having the same problem. I took my truck to my dealer the next day. A technician spoke with me. He stated he new what was wrong. He said the steering gear bushings needed replacing with the updated ones. They gave me a loaner car and went home. I kept thinking how would a steering gear cause the truck to shake that bad. It seemed like the drive shaft would have been bad. A few days later they called and said the truck was ready. I got on the interstate and took it up to 100mph. NO SHAKE!! It was fixed. Not sure if there is a service bulletin out. It was in warranty and didn't cost anything. On my invoice there was a spot called STEERING. Under that it stated "DIAGNOSE, STEERING BUSHINGS ARE NOT THE UPDATED BUSHINGS, REPLACED STEERING GEAR BUSHINGS AS PER SI AND TEST DROVE". It no longer shakes. I hope I have helped someone out. As a side note, when I first got there to drop off the truck, I saw my ASSIGNED REP out smoking. I went out and smoked with him. I started a casual conversation. I asked him if he ever had angry people to deal with. He said once there was a guy that showed up to pick his truck up. The customer started arguing with him. The bill was over $600.00. He said he wasn't going to pay over $300.00. The rep said he reviewed the bill and saw where he made a $50.00 mistake. He fixed that mistake. He then (somehow) juggled the numbers around and got the bill under $300.00. Sounds weird, but this is what he told me and I believe it. We all know about car dealers. Another time, when I took my truck in for its first oil change at 5000 miles, I pulled in and the person that greeted me put some kind of clamps on my tires. I asked my service rep what those were. He stated it would tell them if the truck was in alignment. He then printed off some paperwork and said the front end was out of alignment and was going to cost $139.00. I asked the technician about that. He said there was to be no charge because it was in warranty. After all this BS, I went home. I then started receiving e-mails from the "Customer Experience Manager" wanting me to give the rep all 10's as a score so the rep wouldn't get in trouble. I didn't respond. Then I got e-mails from GM in Detroit wanting to know my "overall experience". I decided I better give her all 10's and recommend my dealer. I'm sure my comments will be stored in the database. Don't want them to sabotage my truck on the next visit. Tied of my rant yet? OK, one final item. The transmission had to be replace just over 4000 miles. The truck looks good. Looks can be deceiving.

Literally I’ve been modifying my truck to the LTZ features, I’m sure a lot a people will say”waste of time and money, just get an LTZ” but to me is more than that., the sense of accomplishment is what drives me to do this kind of mods. Next mod will be be adding the RSE roof screen..[emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Took a ride yesterday before the 40’s hit today.

My smaller head wanted me to buy the 6.2 to say I had the power. Luckily my big head decided to go with the 5.3 with the tow package. All the power I'll ever need. Very happy with it.

Got my Circle D 278mm HP 3000-3200 stall put in my truck today. Had my tune adjusted for it and made some other changes. Launching in auto 4wd and leaving it in auto 4wd with Zak from Klug Performance in the truck we logged a 5.18 0 to 60 with a 1/4 tank of e85 and air temp of 32 degrees tonight. Last week with Zak in the truck an air temp of 28 degrees, same fuel amount, same launch prior to the stall truck did a 5.60 0 to 60. Right around a 4 tenth gain. Can't wait till spring to get some time slips with the new converter. Drives great under normal driving conditions and at highway speeds. Very happy with my choice.

Been retired for awhile now and remember growing up in the late 60's during the muscle car wars. Anybody else in that category? My overall point is I am surprised how many complaints there are about the power these engines put out. Take the 5.3 for example: 355 HP from 325 cubic inches. That's 1.1 hp/cube! That's pretty darn good. Back in the old days 1 HP per cubic inch was the Holy Grail for performance engines and took some serious work to get there. My 2015 with the 5.3 (6 speed) has great acceleration and very good mileage. I guess it's all in what your used to. Any and all comments or insults are welcome.

The method you posted earlier would probably be to much and will cause pre mature wear on your truck. If you want more lift go with a 4" lift. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

How hard does this dead horse need beating before we understand that hangnails and the common cold are not AFM related? Before you know it TPMS failures and baldness will be "AFM related".

It says it is a 50$ add on to get it to work with this type cover.

Kinda hard to explain. It is on the drivers side, at the rear glass panel. The B pillar on a 2 door and the C pillar on a crew cab. Here is the Part you need - http://amzn.to/2BsArSw Here is a picture.

It is a Magnum Low Profile headache rack https://www.magnummfginc.com/shop/truck-racks/magnum-all-aluminum-low-pro-truck-rack The cover is a Gator between the rails roll up https://www.realtruck.com/gator-roll-up-tonneau-cover/R184493P2017Y734MA.html

I can't speak for Grumpy, but I'm always happy when I install a new, EXPENSIVE part, and it actually works. Usually, regardless of brand name, I'm making anywhere from 2 - 7 trips to the parts store until I finally get a GOOD part. NOBODY from my grandfather's generation would put up with this. They'd be grabbing people by the throat until they found the source of the stupidity. Maybe we need to start doing this ...

The front are set on the highest setting which I think was four and yes 2" RC blocks for the rear. I think I just realized why you were asking as the pictures are skewed up as I fubar'd the labelling. The top two are the front and the bottom two are the rear. I updated the original post to correct. With putting in the 2" blocks there is only a net gain of 3/4" as the factory I think are 1 1/4" blocks. Thanks.

Awesome. Let me know details and I will get you some $$$

Terminals for this should be arriving tomorrow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's a link to the product page: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/assemblies/tail-light-assemblies/14-18-chevrolet-silverado.html

I just did mine last week. My manual said to cross the fronts that go to the back. Rears go straight forward.

Lazy. Supposed to cross the front as they go to the rear not crossing them on the way up front, that can lead to tire pulls.

AFTER: 94k miles 285-65-20 BF Ko2'S... brake pads shocks this next weekend.

Get a tune from Blackbear, Diablo, or another competent tuner.

Not that I bought it to beat on, but being a truck designed for more than moving people, I would hope the driveline could handle some wide open throttle passing maneuvers on occasion. So how do you undo the voodoo that they do?

It THAT what it was about? That's sort of like 'everyone want's to go to church', no one what's to be seen doing it.

Pickups grew in popularity in the later 60's and climbed for family use with the introduction of the super cabs in the seventies. I preferred pickups because they were like driving a big car without the stigma that was cast on the "gas guzzlers" during the energy crisis days!

I’ve had both and don’t have anything bad to say about either tire. Both perform well in rain and snow. With that being said i feel the Ridge Grapplers are the better looking tire. 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L 4.5" Zone 22x10 American Force Grips 33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers Instagram @wildchevys

Got around to getting my light bar in. It's a 32" hyper series, 180w cree, with 3D optics. pictures don't do this thing justice - it travels 7-800'. It's hard to get good ones to display the actual output Edit: don't know why the order is messed up but pic 1 is with the bar and headlights with fogs, pic 4 is headlights and fogs only. The phone wouldn't focus well

Replaced my 2015 Silverado OEM plastic dashboard to a 2017 Silverado High Country leather dashboard. Before After Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I just put on my Bilstein 5100's, RC 2" blocks. I have the rims coming tomorrow and have to decide on Ridge Grapplers or Toyo AT2's.

Just a quick picture of the truck with the plow installed. I will post better pictures tomorrow when it is light out. I will also get some detailed pictures of the install. The kind of stuff I was trying to find.

Comments like this and "you suck" spoil an otherwise interesting discussion. "TOO {sic} EACH HIS OWN" does not excuse this kind of personal attack. I agree with the cosmetic change offered by the bright red wires. They would be a waste for many of us that don't have friends who ask to look under our (vehicle) hood! When looking at used vehicles for my friends and family, I look for things like "upgraded" spark plug wires. They alert me to take a closer look to see what other aftermarket attention this vehicle has received.

I would be ok with that but the second it squeeks rubs rattles or makes some weird ass sound Id burn the truck down lol. I hate interior noises like that Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

May have been a fluke!! I had a brand new Ford in the shop 10 times in the first six months I owned it.. Finally got rid of it after the service manager suggested trading it.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you are looking for mpg a tuneup, plugs, wires cap rotor and new o2 sensors are best bet. If your truck has over 150k and still has stock Catalitic converters then replace them as they are probably clogged. I put a flow master high flow cat kit on my 350 with 4 new o2 sensors. Felt a noticeable difference. Then had computer mail order tuned by blackbear performance. Felt a big difference. Removed all torque management and firmed up trans shifts. Definitely recommend. And my 350 and 4l60e have 210k lol Here’s the high flow cat system with larger diameter pipe and better flowing bends than the restrictive stock design. Of course double check vehicle fitament. https://www.amazon.com/Flowmaster-2010023-Direct-Catalytic-Converter 97 k1500 with 210k and original 350 5.7 and 4l60e. Everything’s stock except shorty headers with egr (summit racing) flowmaster performance high flow cats and larger diameter front pipe 2010023 flowmaster muffler with dual tail pipes ac Delco cap rotor plugs, Bosch wires, Bosch o2 sensors (rock Auto) still running original mechanical spider injection SFI. No issues (chevron gas)? Blackbear performance tune Ebay k2xx tow mirrors with turn signals, running lights and rear clearance lights blazer / Astro van trip computer mod (avg / instant Mpg, gallons used, etc) gmt800 dual display mirror outside temp / compass

So....why you on a GM site?

Good truck to switch into. In the few Rams I had the chance to drive, the drivetrain is way smoother than my truck.

I did my whole windshield at 50% with a 5% legal strip at the as1 line. 50% is tough to tell it’s on there so with my legal strip hopefully a cop just sees that. I haven’t had any issues so far.

You play, you pay... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Maybe he's the guy here who hit the squirrel

OH. Is that why there are no service departments at FORD dealerships. Mystery solved.

Please drive it in the ocean, and video it. You say myraid of problems, but in reality, it's a very small percentage of total trucks made that have these issues.