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In June I upgraded from an 08 Sierra DC to an 18 CC SLT due to a growing family. I was contemplating waiting for a 2019 but could not pass up the deals they were giving on the 2018. I have to say I am glad I made that decision. Now that the 2019s are hitting the lots I am happy with my decision. I am just not feeling the new body style. The interiors look very similar. I actually think my 2018 looks nicer both inside and out. Time will tell. Maybe the 2019s will grow on me but right now I am happy with my choice.

So, I know you guys are slogging away in here trying to figure out the cheapest way to add Carplay/Android Auto to your trucks. I think, last night, I figured out THE most expensive way to go about it... The rebates and employee pricing discount I get through Cat were just too good. That, and I wasn't a big fan of the body styling on the '19. (and it has Carplay.)

I can't be the only one to say it. The 2019s are so disappointing. And here's why for me, can anyone convince me otherwise? 1. No radar cruise control 2. Stop start garbage 3. No panoramic sunroof (not that I care, but I know most do) 4. All this R&D into dynamic fuel management and the mpg rating hasn't changed 5. Carbon fiber bed? Waste of R&D 6. You can't get the 6.2 or the 10 speed in the lower trimmed trucks 7. Gauge cluster actually looks worse than the outgoing model's (cheap but more feature laden) 8. No classic square arches 9. Looks way too overstyled, the "old" truck was a handsome beast 10. Still waxing frames after all these years 11. The box sides are now so tall that unless you're Yao Ming, you can't reach over the sides 12. The engine bay is now more cramped and for no reason, the radiators have been pushed back towards the engine and there's a brace on either side of the engine that encroach on the space around it What exactly is the benefit of getting a new truck? As far as I can tell they made it worse. Think I'll be keeping my 17 for a long time!

Ended up buying the center console box off ebay with the kicker comp 8". I haven't sold my 10" single box that goes under the rear seat yet, but ebay had a 15% off coupon so I decided to buy it. Here's a few pics of the install. I haven't wired it to my amp yet cause I have to remove my backseat to get to it. It was a little hot outside today with a heat index of 108 so I'll finish tomorrow. It took me about an hour and a half to install cause I was taking a few water breaks. Here's a few pics of the console removed, the stock Bose sub, the new box with 8" sub next to the stock Bose, the 10" sub I removed compared to the others, and the new 8" installed before I put the console back in. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I was just starting to wade through the 45 pages, perhaps you can save me the trouble. Which pin does the stripe on the diode 'face', 10 or 22? *Edit* ...and I'm assuming it's still the same on an '18? Just traded my '14 in last night.

i have the same recon taillights as BlueTopaz14 and i'm really happy with mine when getting them from recon wait for a sale! they regularly put stuff on sale - usually around 'special' days - so the next big sale will likely be in a couple weeks for labour day. i know i went to their site a while ago and signed up to get email alerts from them so they email me the sales. right now it's 15% off and free shipping with the promo code BTS15

Pics after a detailing...

Why not! GM small blocks are addicting! Once you get one you can't go back.............

Took my 2016 silverado with 13000 miles on it to the dealer today .Had a bad smell from ac vents the front driver seat bottom is moving around and have a rough idle at stop lights . They Fixed the ac cleaned a condenser and sprayed some stuff in the vents told me the seat is normal they all move around and the idle is suppose to do that at stop lights . .ive been reading the forums for a while so i know there is no fix for the idle besides a programer to bump it up just wanted to get something in writing incase i have a problem later . Service writer was a huge **** told me corvette and camaros both have rough idles when at stop lights that i should be happy i didnt spend that money and only have a pickup that every new car does that . That you sit on a seat cushion and its gonna wear and move around mine is so crooked you can tell as soon as you get into the truck . Always had great service at this dealer and great prices but now im really pissed purchased 5 cars from them last 3 years and always have been giving a deal . Not really the type to contact a manager but im really pissed spent good money on this truck and i dont like being talked to like im an idiot . Had my daughter with me so i left Think i should make a call to the manager let him know what an **** he has working for him

I had the same issue with my bfgs. Too little air for the first few thousand miles. Mine have 30k on them now and look good despite my early mistake. I’m hoping for another 2 winters from them. I really like the look of the ridge grap but I want to keep to tires with severe weather rating. I drive in some mixed / drifting conditions in winter and like not having to switch in and out of 4x4 constantly. With my KO2s I can just run 2wd until I’m off pavement. Other tires I’d consider are duratracs and General ATX.

I am a GM guy....but since you cannot get a 6.2 in a base or work truck trim I have been dissapointed. Ill keep driving my 2016 Sierra 2500HD with the 6.0. It will outlive these trucks anyways.

And egr, dpf failures on diesels.

So your answer to the overwhelming majority of users reporting their first hand information is to call them liars because you WANT to believe something else? Go crawl back into your cave. BTW, I typically replace offroad tires when they get much below 50% tread. Not because they're "used up" but because offroad traction suffers enough I'd rather have a set of new tires. That's usually somewhere around the 30K mark, these should exceed that easily.

That's a lot of wiring! Keep us informed. I want to do something similar but a little simpler (just drive an extra set of LED lights off the additional button on the lower right of the headlight knob).

I gotcha, Thank you

Yes - good for 2014-2018 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

someone needs to offer this:

Someone needs to do up a spreadsheet. If you have X year truck you need y. If you have z truck you need yy, and so on lol.

Yes, Don’t worry about these tires at all when it comes to premature wearing. Just about everyone I know with a truck is running these. A very good friend of mine that is the GM of a large off-road company highly recommended them to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it. Hopefully this saves someone from having to go back through 45 (at this point) pages of information.

PM sent

man looks dope!

That's not real carbon fiber...

No, some reviews said they do fit the regular sierras but I wouldn’t risk buying them at the price and then them not fitting. They are in fact for the gmc duallys only. However I still have the one I broke and my mom has a Sierra I can test fit it on but it may be a week or so till I can do that but I’d be glad to check for you! [emoji1417] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you go down a tire size on those 24” wheels, you are not going to have any sidewalls. if you’ve got the money handy, then gears are great. If money is sparse at all, I would start with a tune. You might be happy. Especially is going down to 35’s. Lots of people are driving around with 3.42 or even 3.23 with 35” tires.

Drinks on you!! ??

Mine ring like two J-79s warming up before taxiing! LOL Even with the whine and loss of some sounds, they are getting more sensitive. Sounds contradictory but I do not know how else to explain it. Have yet to see a doctor about it, too many other problems.

No AUX input or USB media from the compartment hub when connected normally through the front hub. The compartment hub works 100% if connected directly to the HMI.

I’ve has zero problems (besides installation being a bit tricky due to the location of the reverse light) and zero water intrusion. They look super awesome. But if you arnt wanting to risk breaking a $500 pair of taillights I’d go your route and maybe see how well the cheaper ones work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’re wanting to dish out the money go with the recon ones. Although I highly suggest buying them through recon because if you have any problems the warranty is only good if you bought them through them. And speaking from experience they are pricey to replace [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always hard to tell with these things. I hear a lot of stories about water intrusion of any non-OEM lights. I know Recon makes similar lights but they are pricy. https://gorecon.com/product/chevy-silverado-16-17-150025003500-replaces-factory-oem-led-tail-lights-only-also-fits-gmc-sierra-15-17-dually-body-style-with-factory-oem-led-tail-lights-only-oled-tail-lights-clear-lens/ I prefer the style of the Spyder lights and also the price, but it's a risk either way.

One year anniversary with it so decided to finally make a profile. Enjoyed looking at all these photos when making my decision on what to do with mine. zone 2 inch leveling kit - nothing in the rear - 295/55R20 Cooper STT Pros with now 25,000 miles on them

Here’s a pic of the 4600’s. Notice the plastic boot has 360 degree gap all the way around? That large gap easily allows nasty fluids to splash up in there. I agree with rocks but if I don’t haul butt down rocky gravel roads then I don’t see a reason to keep them on. Let them run naked lol, they need to breathe Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wonder sometimes if these Bridgestone's will ever wear out or become to hard to be safe. Eventually I guess...right? Sneaking up on 75,000 miles and I'm asking myself what more I could possible ask from a truck street tire and I honestly don't know. It's hard to know for a certainty what a different tire will do with all the differing opinions. I don't play nice with opinion and yet hard data is hard to come by unless you generate it yourself. I'm playing with my gauge pack installed on my phone and finally figured out the sound meter. It was kind of a big deal given the wind turbine noise regulations we have around here that seemed...a bit left field? No matter actually it was just the pointed stick I needed to give the device a harder look. Put 2 and 2 together and???? Yea, cabin noise.... Part of cabin noise is tire noise. Part is wind noise. Part is mechanical noise and part of it is how well the cabin insulates you from those noises. I needed a baseline so....we drive 55 mph, windows up unbroken blacktop generated a sound level of 69 db. Impressive. 60 mph and as before 72 db. Rough concrete 75 and 80 db. respectfully. Windows down 80 - 87 depending on how far down. Getting a bit noisy. Okay windows back up and hammer time. Intake and exhaust noise at the top of several gears comes in around 85 db. Pretty quite truck. Oh yes I tried the wife's Terrain with the Michelin's and got about the same numbers. Not enough difference to call a difference really. Of course the cabin is different and the insulation I expect a bit different but they are both stock and both at about the same noise levels. Sounds like a company target number. If I ever get my Buick back I'll give that a go. My ears say it's quitter but my ears said my truck was quitter than the wife's SUV too and I was wrong. My ears ring like Ma Bell. Quite is important as the sound in my head is amplified by ambient noises. Sound like a project some of the Audio guys might weigh in on...eh? I am not a sound engineer. If I needed something quieter I smothered it.

Chrome trim removal on the doors. And all terrain bad taken off today. Much cleaner look! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's been a busy weekend guys, it all started on Thursday night when at the last minute I decided to go ahead and take off the N-Fab running boards knowing the dealer didn't care about them. So around 10 or so I was crawling around under the truck with some lights, a socket, and some pliers. Got them off and in the garage, debating on wether or not to sell or put on the new truck. Hmmm, we will see!

Not to get to much off topic, but there is a range for everything. I'll never pay $1000 for a cellphone but was able to get a pretty decent one for a few hundred. You can get new vehicles for 15, new trucks for 25 or the sky is the limit. I struggle with if I even care if GM has some of the high end options Ford and Ram has because I won't have all of them GM has, so what do I care if there are more? Most of the internet outrage over the GM interior can't afford a new truck and if they can they won't be buying the 60-75k ones. Does it make them feel better to want a truck that has the capability of doing something they would t experience?

Caution. Some of the national chains utilize cheaper material and/or manufacturing processes. Go to an independent locally owned shop. Ive seen really unacceptable distortion in the cheap glass where it has moderate curves/contouring. Its crap.

Case in point: 2006: The new 6-speed transmission is great! 2014: That old 6-speed was junk! But the new 8-speed is great!! 2017: That old 8-speed was trash! But the new 10-speed is fantastic!!!

As an old buzzard and long time GM owner I find it beyond bogus that to get the highest performance motor you have to buy the highest trim level with bells and whistles that many drivers don't want or need. Maybe it's the new GM and need for higher profits, but back in the 60's 409's and then the 427's were able to be ordered even in the lowest trim level in the Chevrolet car line, the Biscayne. For those much younger than me that don't recall the Biscayne, it was bare bones as it got, we're talking about a rubber floor covering rather than carpeting. Now if you wanted to step up to a Bel Air or Impala so be it, all motors from a 250 six to the largest big block were available in the full size car line. GM p/u trucks took a little longer to follow suit, in the mid-60's you could get a 283 V-8 but the 292 six was the ticket, late 60's the 396 was top performer followed by the 454 in the early 70's and guess what, you could get those motors without a sunroof too!

Seems like you just had a rough experience getting situated with new technology (like most adults do), because you're used to things being a certain way. I'm going to have to 100% disagree with JayChevy. I personally have owned a 2017 E-assist Silverado since last July (w/ 33" 10-ply tires). Before that was a 2016 LTZ z71 Midnight Edition. Before that was a 2014 Silverado LT. I back up into my parking spot every single time, as we're required for work. I've never had the engine shut off, unless I'm sitting on the brake for a significant amount of time like at a stop sign or stop light. Even drove a 2018 Malibu rental that had the start/stop tech in it, same thing, worked smoothly. It does take a day or so to get used to when it normally shuts off, but you pick up the timing pretty easily. The jumpseat portion is most likely true, but no one has actually tried. I do know that there are some fans under the jumpseat that cool the lithium battery, so it's most likely a no go. Also the seat for the jumpseat is actually longer in the E-assist models compared to other models. The engine's air intake is the only other option that you cannot modify without modifying where the coolant is located under the hood. They moved the coolant to right behind the radiator so you cannot put the standard MIT tube or CAI's there without modifying the tubing or moving the coolant to a different location. But don't forget, the LT E-assist comes with the 8-speed 5.3L setup, instead of the 5.3L 6 speed like ALL of the other LT/SLE models have. I also can jump start my truck's battery w/ my lithium battery. Pretty cool feature if you ask me. From my experience, I spent $30k on the truck out the door. Sold the stock wheels/tires, bought new wheels/tires, and re-installed all of my aftermarket parts from my 2016 Silverado (listed below). I'm currently at $37k with all my mods (including tires and wheels) and I've converted my truck into a LTZ basically w/ a ton of other add-ons. Way cheaper going this route than paying $45k for the upgraded models.

305/70R17 Toyo AT2's Method NV 17x8.5, 0 offset

Now that I have thought about it.... anyone ever looked at ATK High Performance Engines? I have no idea about what kind of company they are or what the quality of their work is, but they do offer a 2yr / Unlimited mile warranty. http://high-performance-engines.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ATK&Product_Code=HP93 This is a new remanufactured LQ4 6.0L Performance Engine that puts out 460HP / 470TQ. They're selling them on eBay for $3100 if you pick it up in Ohio ($3600 on their website)... But it's as cheap or cheaper than I could buy a donor 6.0L then have the block and head work done with performance goodies... And its dyno proven 460HP / 470TQ. (135HP and 110TQ OVER a stock LQ4) You would still have to pull parts from your motor to complete it, i.e. oil pan, timing chain cover, intake, accessories and such... But they're all the same from the 4.8 to the 6.0

BlackBear Performance, you want the AutoCal. http://blackbearperformance.com/

If you do big 3, go big the first time, I did mine in 1/0. But I have a massive alternator. Always go with new exhaust manifold bolts, go with Grade 8 bolts

Do it regardless. Getting higer in the miles those bearings WILL fail. The upgrade gives you fully caged bearings. When I do my internal upgrades this is on my list with the GT2-3. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4

What does it do for you? I see it replaces the needle bearing but what is wrong with current bearing? Would you do this with the stock cam or a different one? Thank you for all the input, I am learning a lot.

Rods should be 7.4" stockers. Rockers use stock, I would do the comp trunion upgrade. Retune wont be bad. It will run a lot better. Seals should be good Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4

Call thunder racing. Spec one. For DD I wouldnt go above 2500 stall...