Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/11/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Not trying to be a smart ass or anything, but who is honestly buying a truck for fuel economy???? We aren't talking about a sedan here.... Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk
  2. 4 points
    Nice! I had a 1965 Impala SS as well. I purchased it back in 1985. It had a 396, 4sp, AC, factory tach, 3:31 rear that I installed a posi in. It took me 25yrs to get it restored but not to factory because a tree fell on it in our yard during a storm. I had to replace the roof and rear quarter panel. It was a really cool car.
  3. 3 points
    A vehicle is a tool. It provides transportation. It is the worst investment. Your choice. But from your info you like vehicles being you have a new Jag. So are looking for us to convince you not to spend money? I say again, if you like to work, have to have the newest, keep up with the Joneses buy it. If you save the money and invest it you're better off IMO. Nuff said.
  4. 3 points
    Added the AMP power steps, and rear Bilstein 5100’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 2 points
    Congrats man! I have to add a +1 for the Corsa Sport. I just picked up my 2015 and the previous owner had the Corsa installed with an Airaid MIT, and it’s one of my favorite things about the truck. I had Flowmaster Super 44s on my 2008 5.3 and I liked it well enough but the Corsa sounds so nasty on startup and when you mash the gas on the move. I’ve had people turn around, laugh, and tell me they thought my truck was a Vette or a Camaro when it started up. That said, on the highway or at a steady cruise, it’s almost silent compared to the Super 44s. Obviously it’s a pretty system comparatively, but I have to say it’s a pretty awesome setup for what you pay. Let us know what you end up getting!
  6. 2 points
    Sometimes what people say they would do, when they are ribbing you, is different from what they would do if they were in your shoes....
  7. 2 points
    8 quarts of 0W-20. Doesn’t matter if it’s synthetic or blended, the only requirement from GM is it must be a Dexos rated oil. Dexos is a set of standards an oil must meet to be licensed as Dexos. Not all 0W-20 is Dexos. The Mopar oil I had in my truck was the correct weight but not Dexos and the truck didn’t like it at all. A lot of guys like Mobil 1. It’s kind of the go to oil since it can be had for very cheap with rebates and is Dexos rated. Middle of the road oil as far as quality. Not bad, not great and certainly will do the job oil is supposed to do if you regularly change it. Some premium oils like Amsoil Signature Series are not licensed as Dexos but Amsoil states it exceeds the requirements to obtain Dexos licensure. Lots of guys swear by it. I’m impressed with how low it’s volatility is for such a thin oil. Valvoline Advanced is a full synthetic Dexos oil with very good wear properties and relatively inexpensive at $50 for 10 quarts. It’s higher in volatility so you will likely need to add a quart or two between oil changes. Oil consumption is pretty common in these trucks. Redline has been used successfully by a lot of guys with Hemi engines to quiet down engine ticking. Only down side is it’s expensive. So many other great options out there.
  8. 2 points
    I've run into the same issue before with Chevy AND Volvo. Generally, loaners are a dealer courtesy. Sometimes it's necessary to schedule non urgent repairs around loaner availability.
  9. 2 points
    All that weight savings doesn't matter on the freeway when the front end is larger. A brick can only be so aerodynamic. It sounds like everything is bigger on the 19s. From the front profile to the bed and tailgate.
  10. 2 points
    Here's a pic of a pic of mine
  11. 2 points
    It just goes to show us all, and the manufactures, that smaller engines and more gears isn't the way to good fuel milage. A big engine using less of it's total capabilities, is more effective then a small engine working hard in all situations.
  12. 2 points
    Please dont do that. My head hurts just seeing it. So many things wrong with that.
  13. 2 points
    Any chance of getting a video with sound of cold start, revving, etc? Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  14. 2 points
    My first car was a 1965 Impala SS, my Dad bought it for my in 1976 for my 16th Bday. It had 160k on it and I put another 75K on it with only a timing chain going bad. Wish I still had it, I did end up putting a 327/300hp in it a few years later as the old 283 was weak. Not all were junk. And yes I did tear out the powerglide by backing up and throwing it in gear to spin the tires, Good Times!!!!
  15. 2 points
    6” on 35s. Fuel couplers -12 offset with the tinted spokes. Looks great with the brown matches well!
  16. 2 points
    Just picked up my SLT Crew Cab Standard Bed on Saturday. Took about 10 weeks to arrive.
  17. 1 point
    I had a bit of spare time a couple years ago during the hottest week of the year and figured it would be a great time to do some hot weather tuning and while I was at it, a further eval of the cooling system. I collected a bunch of temp data some may find useful. I posted some similar data a couple of years ago but it was limited to a single “after” run with a couple of mods allowing people to pontificate upon what they thought the “before” results would have been with the stock cooling system. Unfortunately side-arguments were started by people who don’t understand how the cooling system works and it overwhelmed the information provided in the thread. So here’s a second try. This time I collected enough data from enough configurations there’s really no room for any argument, just the results, just what the data show. For the sake of simplicity we’ll compare two runs, one run with the completely stock cooling system and the other configuration the one I recommend for those towing heavy loads in the mountains in the summer with 2014+ V8 trucks—with two simple mods, a 180 thermostat and more aggressive fan settings in the tune. Two of the most common tropes on the internet regarding cooling systems are “the thermostat doesn’t do anything as soon as the engine is ‘warmed up’ so it won’t make a difference,” and “the fans don’t do anything at highway speed.” Both are simply very wrong, for a multitude of reasons. While it’s possible to conceive of specific situations in which one or the other modification won’t be of benefit, the vast majority of drivers (probably on the order of 99.999% if both mods are done together) will never run into one of these situations while running hotter than they’d like. The data below speak for themselves. As I’m sure some are wondering, runs were also made with the 180 thermostat and stock fan settings along with the stock thermostat and modded fan settings. The results were unsurprising, showing one mod helpful in some situations, the other mod helpful in others, but neither mod alone fully effective in all situations. Putting the two together makes each more effective and gives significantly improved cooling performance in all situations which is why I recommend both. This post is long enough and will be confusing enough to many readers already so sticking to comparing the two configs for now is probably a good idea. But keep in mind when I explain and attribute parts of the results to one thing or the other, I’m not making it up, I have the data to support the conclusions. Here are the stock fan settings: And with the 180 Thermostat these setting were used: A snapshot close to the top with the stock system: A snapshot close to the top in the modded config: Cliff’s notes results: Those were the peak temps reached by each fluid. As you can see, the modified configuration dropped peak temps across the board by about 20 degrees. Peak temps of course, don’t tell the whole story. Looking at the data in more detail is instructive. Each run was 20 miles up a mountain pass. The first 15 miles has a decent slope with the last 5 miles or so getting pretty steep—more than a 5% grade. The long runs ensure all fluids had plenty of time to be fully warmed up and find their steady-state on the moderate slope before the steepest final five miles. Ambient temps were right around 92 degrees most of the way up the hill on all runs. Also of note, the runs were made with the cruise on 65 MPH in Tow/Haul Mode for most of the way, but on each run the last ½ mile or so required reduced vehicle speed due to traffic at the top of the hill. Here is an elevation profile of roughly the last 10 miles of the run. Each chart only shows the last 10 miles of each run to better show the differences as the first 10 of each is pretty boring and just takes up space. Note this was not intended to be any sort of “ultimate torture” test or “proof test,” indicating success on this test would insure the cooling system can handle anything. I’ve towed heavier loads up longer, steeper passes and many south of here have done that in much hotter weather (but not while collecting data with a laptop). This was a comparison test to show the differences in performance of the cooling system configurations. Temps headed in the wrong direction on this test, even if they didn’t quite get out of control, should be a red flag for more severe use. Coolant Temp: Here you can see that after the first 10 miles of steady state climb (beginning of the chart), the cooling system is doing pretty well in both configurations and the thermostats are not even fully open (thus the ~25 degree advantage for the 180 thermo). That’s pretty good news, especially for those with the stock system who live where it’s flatter and any hills encountered when towing will be of moderate slope and/or length. When the hill gets steep for the last five miles, the cooling system needs to start working much harder. As both thermostats open more fully, the advantage of the 180 thermo of the modified configuration is slowly negated so the temps converge a bit, but the higher fan speeds of that config still give the system more cooling capacity—along with the stock thermostat not being open 100% until the very end of the test. As you can see, even running full blast up the steepest part of the hill, the modified config tops out in temp, reaching a new steady state. The hill could have gone on forever and it would not have gotten any hotter. Then when vehicle speed is reduced, temp comes down immediately. It is clear the fans played a key role with the modded config as the temp rise stops as the fans approach full speed. Programmed to reach full speed at 212 degrees, the temp stops rising 5 degrees short of that, so the fans get cranked up pretty high, but never quite actually get to full speed, indicating there’s still a little cooling capacity left in the system that would require a tougher test to utilize. If it was possible to program the fans to reach full speed at a lower temp (without them running full speed all the time, which I deem unacceptable for general use) it’s very possible lower peak temps would have been maintained with this thermostat. It’s also possible a slightly higher temp thermostat would have resulted in similar peak temps with these same fan settings. But you can’t use these fan settings with the stock thermostat (it's just too high) unless you want them blasting all the time. The temp for the stock config is still climbing when running at full speed and when vehicle speed is reduced to 50 MPH or so, the temp spikes quickly. Had the steep part of the hill been any longer there’s no telling how high the temp would have climbed. It didn’t quite make it to the danger zone in this test but it’s easy to see how it could in a tougher test. I personally have no interest in ever letting my coolant get into the 230-240 degree range and it’s clear with the stock config that would have happened with a heavier trailer, steeper hill or hotter ambient temps. Other vehicles begin going into various protected modes at such temps. For example, the EcoDiesel will begin “defueling” when the temp hits 244 and you’ll begin slowing down to 18-wheeler speed. The modded config on this truck provides a huge margin of safety before reaching such temps. When vehicle speed is reduced, the stock fan settings really hurt the stock setup. It is very common for speeds to be limited by traffic or road safety when towing and this shows that while increased fan speed helps significantly even at 65 MPH, it’s really, really needed at ~50 MPH. In some states there’s a 55 MPH speed limit when towing a trailer and sometimes there’s just too much traffic to go any faster. Many also tow on gravel/dirt roads, mountain trails, etc, where vehicle speed is kept low even when the engine is working hard. For those conditions the fan settings are even more crucial than they were in this test. Given these results, the engine cooling system seems to be more than adequate on these trucks, even without the NHT radiator. All one needs to do is “turn it on” a bit more aggressively with the lower temp thermostat and fans that don’t wait until you’re close to a meltdown before they crank on with some authority. I see no other mods needed for engine temp control in any situation. Oil Temp: Since the oil cooler is an oil/water cooler located in the cool tank of the radiator—so water temps have a direct effect on its effectiveness--it’s not surprising the oil temps stayed proportional to the water temps, beginning about 20 degrees cooler for the modified setup and converging a bit as water temps converged on the steep part. Again, the modified config found a new steady state in the middle of the most difficult part, indicating the hill could have gone on forever and temps would have risen no further. The stock setup, however, allows the oil temp to keep rising until the end of the hill—had the hill gone on another few miles, how much higher would the temp have climbed? 250 degrees on this test indicates it could get really toasty under harder use with the stock setup. For good fully synthetic oil (I run Redline) 250 is no big deal for short periods if infrequent. I don’t worry about the oil temp at all on my Camaro until it exceeds 300…but then again I change the oil on my Camaro after a single day at the track and don’t rack up that many miles on the engine so engine wear is less of a concern. I don’t think many people change the oil in their truck every time they tow something up a hill, so if you’re cooking the oil on a regular basis and still trying to run it 10,000 miles between changes, keeping the temps down a bit might be a good idea. 0W-20 is thin as water at regular temps, at 250+ it simply won’t protect as well as thicker oils of the same type. Yes, it reduces wear at startup, especially in cold weather, but it can’t do that and also be optimum for really high temps—so trying to prevent it from reaching such high temps is a good idea. For those who drive a truck for a couple years before trading it in it might not be so concerning, but for those who want to keep a truck long past the warranty period and put on a lot of miles, reducing engine wear is a smart thing to do. Using the EcoDiesel as an example again, it begins defueling when the oil hits 266 degrees indicating they feel that is very bad for the engine. Given these results, the stock oil cooler shows it is pretty effective. When the water in the radiator is kept to a reasonable temp in the modded config, the oil cooler is plenty adequate for keeping the oil temps in check. I don’t see a need for adding an aftermarket cooler or modding the stock system in any way, just keep the engine from running too hot when it’s working hard. Trans Temp: Here you can see on the moderate portion of the hill, the mods only made a small difference. Since most (or even all in some conditions) of the cooling comes from the air/oil cooler in the system, and the trans fluid cooling system has its own thermostat, lower water temps only have a small secondary effect on trans temps so the engine thermostat change alone won’t do much. And before the trans fluid thermostat is wide open, the increased fan speed only has a small effect. As the trans warms up, the increased fan speeds do help obviously as you can see the results begin to diverge as the hill gets really steep. In the stock config, the temp was climbing quickly all the way to the top. If the hill was longer, there’s no telling when it would stop. While for a shorter period of time than the other fluids, the temp does reach somewhat of a steady state temp in the modded config before vehicle speed is reduced indicating if the hill went on forever the temp should stay close constant. And the temp is low enough even if it gains another couple degrees, it’s a non-issue. The most worrisome part of the results for the stock system is the huge temperature spike at the top of the hill where vehicle speed is reduced. With the fans humming along in the modded config, there is no large temperature spike. This is an especially important thing for people to note who tow at lower speeds as described above. Towing in traffic is especially hard on the transmission as the on gas/off gas nature keeps the converter unlocking and slipping all the time, creating a lot of heat. The same can be said for winding roads/mountain trails. Unfortunately there are not separate fan settings in the computer based upon tranny temp, you need to get them on indirectly by assuming any time the transmission wants to get hot the engine will be warm enough that the modded fan settings I show above will have kicked in. This should work for most situations but it is possible (towing at low speeds, especially in very cold weather) that won’t always be the case. For pure highway towing the mods I listed above should be adequate. Keeping the transmission temps below 210 degrees in a test like this keeps you way out of the danger zone and nothing else is really needed. However, if you do tow at lower speeds a lot it may be worth it to you to add another layer of protection. The easiest way to do that is to bypass the stock tranny fluid thermostat and splice in an aftermarket one. This should have a similar effect as the lower thermostat does for the engine temp—giving it a lower baseline temp 95% of the time and keeping max temps lower by simply “turning on” the trans cooler a larger percentage of the time in mixed use and earlier during sustained hard pulls. I would not recommend simply bypassing the stock thermostat without replacing it with something. There’s really no advantage to running these modern transmissions colder than 180 or so and some disadvantages, especially in winter use. According to the data so far, the stock air/oil cooler seems adequate so I see no reason to advocate adding a larger aftermarket cooler at this point. But I don’t yet have any data for the system with a lower temp trans thermostat or lower speed testing. I’ll probably do that at some point and try to collect data in situations where the above mods might not be enough. Given the testing so far, I do think it would be very difficult to come up with a scenario where the above mods and the addition of a new tranny fluid thermostat are not enough to keep temps under control and wouldn’t advocate going to the hassle and potential downsides of installing a new cooler until some sort of data indicated it was needed. But more testing in this area is needed. Conclusions: For a 2014+ truck with a V8, even with the non-NHT radiator, I conclude the following for towing in hot weather where steep hills/mountain passes will push the cooling system to the max of its capabilities, in stock configuration and with two mods—a 180 degree engine thermostat and reprogrammed fans. Engine temp: In stock config the system is adequate for all but the harshest of conditions (harder than the above test). However there is indication a harder test could drive engine temps dangerously close to overheating, even if it doesn’t get to the point of spewing steam, it will come too close for comfort for many owners. With the two mods, the stock cooling system should be completely adequate for any situation. Engine oil temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep engine oil temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, oil life is reduced, engine wear is increased, etc. With the two mods, engine oil temps are kept in check and the stock system should be adequate for any situation. Trans Temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep trans temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, fluid life would be reduced and transmission could risk damage. In the modded config, trans temps are kept in check and the system should be adequate for any highway-speed condition where transmission heat is due to longer, sustained hard work as the engine temps will also rise triggering an increase in fan speed. The above test does not guarantee the system will be adequate in all lower speed conditions, especially in cold weather where the engine might stay cold enough the fans will not speed up (unless you have them programmed to stay blasting all the time which is not recommended for various other reasons). More testing and possibly other mods required (lower temp trans thermostat, larger cooler if high temps are still reached after that). One caveat for the entire cooling system overall is that these tests were done with the 6.2. It’s reasonable to suspect they might not have been as good (for each config) if tested on a 5.3 which will need higher RPM and lower gears to maintain speed going up steep hills. For a given load and a given hill, the 5.3 just needs to work harder than the 6.2. This does tend to put more heat in the fluids and I believe everybody thus far who has reported here getting warning messages when towing up passes and had to slow down has had the 5.3—even with the NHT radiator. So for concerned 5.3 owners I’d say look at the above results with the fact all temps may have been higher with a 5.3 in mind, making the mods an even better idea for the smaller engine. Another caveat is that this truck does not have those fantastic grill shutters…. I’ve done zero investigation into how those are operated and how much restriction they add even when open. Any restriction to airflow through the radiator only makes fan power more important, so if anything they would result in an even larger difference between the two configurations. One of the more important things this test reveals, is just how lucky we are. GM did a pretty good job on the cooling system of these trucks and big N/A V8’s are generally easier to keep cool than smaller turbo motors. Most never have any issue in completely stock form, and with a couple of simple mods that “turn on” the cooling system a bit sooner, we can work these trucks hard without worry, no matter the load, no matter the ambient temp. Other brands don’t have it so good. Before buying this truck, I was heavily looking at both the Ford Ecoboost and the Ram Ecodiesel. Both of those trucks have serious issues in tests like this. The Ram has it much worse—they run into the defueling conditions even with lesser loads on lesser hills and even in cool weather. It is very unlikely one of those could have completed this test without having to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range ½ way up the hill. They simply aren’t remotely as capable as these trucks are. Some owners spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, different grills for more airflow, etc, but most simply seem satisfied to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range on big hills. They sure do get great mileage though. The Ecoboosts don’t have it quite that bad (they’re much more capable trucks), but they do commonly have issues. Heavy loads up long passes in high ambient temps—especially at high altitude—commonly heats them up to the point they enter “Reduced Engine Power” mode where the engine begins cutting boost until the turbos are basically shut off. Owners of these tucks also spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, etc, but even with all that, nothing seems to “fix” the issue. We don’t need to worry about any of that. Owners commonly force downshifts to increase the engine RPM as a matter of course (sort of negates that whole “low RPM torque tows just like a big diesel” bragging point). Lots of Ecodiesel and Ecoboost owners end up upgrading to heavy duty trucks (usually of the same brand as they are loyal) simply due to frustration of overheating issues when the trucks are worked hard. It’s nice we don’t have to worry about that. Good job, GM.
  18. 1 point
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali wins the 2019 Canadian Truck King Challenge
  19. 1 point
    It doesn't matter whether the bank would have caught this or not. It's about honesty and manhood. You did the right thing and karma will catch up with you! so long j-ten-ner
  20. 1 point
    There most commonly used to install "Ditch Lights" but could be used for CB antenna, whip markers, or even to mount a full size lightbar between a pair of them.
  21. 1 point
    I should of mentioned my truck is lowered 3/6 Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  22. 1 point
    There was no online forums back then! Ha ha ha. Just the local hardware store shooting the shit with your colleagues about how great life is!
  23. 1 point
    Here is a crazy idea if you want good gas mileage don't buy a truck. I drive around 800 miles a week on average and get 15 mpg, I just really don't care about gas mileage and it reflects in how I drive. It just blows my mind how people are going to buy a truck and then have the audacity to complain about the bad gas mileage, if you want good gas mileage go buy a Prius or some other car or a POS Ecoboost. When I buy a truck not only do I not want or care about gas mileage I want the biggest motor they make (6.2 in the case of 1500 GM's). I like the sound it makes when I slam on the skinny pedal. That's my two cents, not that you asked for it but you got it.
  24. 1 point
    I don’t know the answer but wanted to say that’s a fine looking truck right there!
  25. 1 point
    Wow this 2019 silvy/sierra rollout has gone about as bad as possible for GM.
  26. 1 point
    I love my Chevy and dislike the Tundras. Mainly because how different they are. If you are used to your Tundra and like it, I think it'd be really hard to switch.
  27. 1 point
    You were told wrong. Lot's of 200,000K + drivelines. Then as now, the better you took care of it the longer it lasted. Rust out included. You know what we never went to a dealer for? Glitchy computerized gizmo tech defects.
  28. 1 point
    I have both. Really like the LKA but rarely use the heated steering wheel, the heated seats are a different story as they are on all the time now when we drive the truck.
  29. 1 point
    There is only so much fuel economy you can squeeze out of a brick.
  30. 1 point
    Hey my buddy bought a 2017 and today we were looking at his leaf springs and they were almost flat also. But do to overload toy hauling but I would definitely check those u bolts I also took the block out from under the leaf springs and put it on top and it feels so much better and looks better also with the stock suspension
  31. 1 point
    I wouldn’t sell the tundra if I were you. Best truck is paid-off, reliable truck IMHO Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  32. 1 point
    Badass truck gearhead, love it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  33. 1 point
    Perfect, thanks. I'll figure out what I want to do and pm you tomorrow.
  34. 1 point
    I got my silicone fob covers yesterday and problem solved, the fob was the only thing hitting the column
  35. 1 point
    To me this is the main cause. You can reduce weight but increasing the frontal area and now you are pushing more air than before makes a huge diffence. So how much weight would it really take to loose to overcome the resistance to pushing that air? To me they didn't seem to streamline it much. They say the extra spoiler on the back of the cab and the tailgate help. It seems to me they needed to do more. JMO.
  36. 1 point
    Congrats!... great looking truck! First post here... and am searching for that same combo in a 2018 SLT Premium Plus. Had the same concerns as a prior poster mentioned regarding the PP chrome 20" wheels. Had only seen the Premium Plus with them till I found out about Howard Bentley dealership in AL and searched there... they seem to have theirs equipped with the polished aluminum 20" wheels. Is that unique to how Bentley orders them or relative to another added option being ordered on the truck ?...I did a build out on 2018s today and saw you could option out of the 20" chrome for the 20" polished aluminum ones ... had added sunroof with off road package and it allowed for the wheels to be swapped out.
  37. 1 point
    Pretty smart having a dedicated set of wheels/tires for winter months. I am gonna look into this for my truck.
  38. 1 point
    BedMat XLT and tonneau cover installed.
  39. 1 point
    I am running 17” ATX wheels I had on my old 2008 Canyon on my 2018 Sierra now. The Canyon needs a larger bore size, but there is no vibration issues with the same wheels on the Sierra. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  40. 1 point
    I ran wheels off my 2011 Titan on both my 2014 1500 Denali and my 2017 1500 Denali. No problem at all.
  41. 1 point
    The remote start capability utilizes a set of relays to essentially hot wire the car. - Relay(s) may be failing - the hot lead to the box is becoming loose - fuse or fuse holder is failing
  42. 1 point
    B pillar covers from carbon_covers.
  43. 1 point
    Just got new wheels and tires finally [emoji7]20x12 -51 offset vision rockers on 33x12.50 federal couragia and it rubs so bad And I did a NorCal mod on one fender then ran out of daylight so gotta do the other one tomorrow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  44. 1 point
    Added the plugs in the rear, easiest mod.
  45. 1 point
    Found a GM borla muffler on the cheap from a local guy and borrowed a wielder from a my father-n-law and went to work on it. I didnt like the factory exhaust exit so I chopped it just over the axle put a 14 dollar chrome tip on it. Total cost for everything 64 dollars.... Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    Me either... I'm wondering if my bose sub is even working. With the volume up, you can feel the doors vibrating, but feel absolutely nothing when you touch the console. I would think if the sub was working your would atleast feel a little bit.
  47. 1 point
    Alright got my console removed. Wasn't that bad. Anyone else wanting to pull the console to add a sub this is what you need to do. 1. Lift the console lid and pry up the the console trim that holds the cup holders and outlets. I used a screwdriver and pried it at the locations below as seen on youtube videos. 2. With the trim removed there will be 2 10mm bolts exposed. Remove them. 3. Disconnect all the connectors on the trim piece as well as the larger harness and the brown USB harness behind the trim piece. 4. Remove the map pocket trim on either side of the console. They just pull straight out. You may have to move the seats around to get them completely out. With the map holders removed 1 bolt on either side will be exposed. 15mm I think. 5. Move your seats all the way forward and at the back on either side of the console near the carpet are 2 plastic cover. Pry them open from the back with a thin screwdriver. Behind the covers are 2 more 15mm bolts. Remove them. At this point you should be able to slide the console back. I had to lift mine up a bit but it should be completely free
  48. 1 point
    and if you don't like the way it sounds... buy a second one and you'll have a nice set of ramps!
  49. 1 point
    Truck new to you? The GM G80 locker rear end engages pretty roughly, a lot of people think their truck is broke if they have never heard it before and it engages. I like to drive with the traction control off and the back tires tend to spin easily. If they spin on wet pavement sometimes the G80 will sometimes engage, it pops snaps and jerks LOL and it does take a few hundred feet of driving to disengage. If you did not know what it was you would probably be trying to take it in for service.
  50. 1 point
    I paid $150 for the cluster and $450 for the programming...however if it was a brand new cluster the programming would have cost $350...no idea what a new cluster would cost. As for install it was very easy. Just grab hold of your dash piece that covers it and lift up. It is held in by like 8 of those metal clips...once you do that undo the 3 7mm bolts that hold the grave surround on and lift out of place the cluster is held in on each corner by 7mm bolts...once undone undo the Cleo the holds the wire connector in...you slide down with the red piece and then flip the black handle piece over and it pops it out. Pretty easy install as it took me about 10 min and I had absolutely no idea how to do it. When I get around to sound the HUD I will take some pictures
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-05:00


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.