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Showing most liked content on 01/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Well first, I would like to thank everyone that took some of their time to give me their input...some interesting to say the least....lol! But for all it's worth I ordered a 6.2 today.....mayby for the wrong reason, but this way I should'a….could'a, would'a won't be in the cards. And at an age that it could be awhile to the next one....Anyway folks again thanks for your time....and will be back with the " Verdict" lol ! AG
  2. 3 points
    So, this will be the high level version but it's super easy. I've followed this recipe in all my cars for the last several years. I put this together because a dash cam just saved my ass with respect to an accident. Many of you offered valuable input on that and I appreciate it. Get a dash cam! Disclaimer: This procedure works for me. If you don't feel comfortable poking around in your fuse box, this procedure isn't for you. If you don't have some of the fuses/options that I reference in this, you'll have to locate an alternative fuse which should be pretty easy. Just be really careful poking around with a test light. If you mess your truck up..it's on you. Just keep in mind the concept of retained accessory power. Something may appear to have +12v when you turn the ignition button off...but it may only be hot for a few min. The way I checked this was to hit lock on my alarm remote. From what I can tell, this should kill RAP. If you still have +12V, then it should be a good source. Also, if you have suggestions or see problems with my procedure, by all means shout it out. I'm all for making a safer/better procedure. What you need: A dash cam. I like the Garmin 45 but you have about a million to choose from. https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Extremely-GPS-enabled-Recording-G-Sensor/dp/B06XFQTDQL The hardwire kit for that dash cam. https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Parking-Mode-Cable-010-12530-03/dp/B06XTBPYS2 2 ATR/Micro2 Add-a-circuit Adapters https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ or Autozone 2 5amp Micro2/ATR fuses Autozone! 10mm socket Summary: You need key on power for the camera. If the camera you choose has a parking mode(the Garmin does), you need a +12v source when the ignition is off(not a RAP only source). 1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2. Pull the fuse box cover on the passenger side of the dash board. Grip the bottom and pull it directly away from the dash. It will unsnap. It is MUCH easier to remove on this truck vs. the previous generation. 3. If you have a pull handle on the passenger side, remove the covers and the 2 10mm screws. BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE WINDSHIELD. IF YOU DO, YOU'RE SCREWED. You don't really need to pull the handle, you just need to loosen it. 4. Mount your camera in center/right side of the windshield. Make sure to mount it far enough away from the review mirror assembly as to not have that in the field of vision. You can also mount it on the right side of your windshield. This particular camera has placement configuration in the software. Technically you can mount it wherever you want! 5. Plug in the cord to the camera and start CAREFULLY tucking in the wire along the headliner. Be very careful about prying it down as to not damage the liner or crack the windshield. Run the wire all the way over to the pillar/handle that you loosened. Run it down the handle trim and tuck it in under the plastic and behind the weather stripping. Run this all the way down. The cord will pop out nicely right above the fuse box you just exposed in step 2. 6. Gently pull the lower kick panel trim. You may have to pull the scuff panel trip to remove it. It just pops out and pops in. Very easy. 7. Behind that kick panel trim, there is a very nice ground. Run your ground wire to that. 8. For the +12v key on power, I used the heated steering wheel fuse. It's a 7.5 amp fuse. Pull that fuse out. Add it to your add-a-circuit. Put one of your 5A fuses in the other fuse slot. Make sure you have the right fuse in the right place. I didn't the first time and when I turned on the heated steering wheel it blew the fuse. Strange that a 7.5A is enough but a 5A isn't. Seems to be cutting it pretty close but what do I know. Anyway, I reversed the fuses and put in a new 5A fuse and everything is good. Plug your new circuit into that slot in the fuse box. 9. For the +12V key off/battery power, I used the garage door opener. It's a 10A fuse. Seems to have power when the key is off. Odd because it would seem that if someone breaks your window, the garage door opener would work. Maybe it doesn't transmit or something but that circuit definitely has key off power. Assemble your add-a-circuit w/ your fuses in the correct orientation and plug it in to the fuse box. 10. Tuck in all your wires. Use zip ties to bundle up the excess. Make sure all your connections are good and secure. 11. Reconnect your battery and make sure your camera works in run mode as well as parking mode. For this camera when you turn the truck off, it should say "Starting parking mode" on the LCD...or something like that. When you turn on the ignition/engine, you should see the camera power up. 12. Assuming everything is good, put all your trim back in place and carefully reattach your pillar handle. Don't hit the windshield! 13. Got for a drive and then check the video when you get home. Make sure it's clear and free of obstructions. Fusebox image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0hd6gptnsrupdc/2019-01-11 14.53.58.jpg
  3. 3 points
    Yikes, looks like a Camaro and a Traverse had sex and this is their baby.....
  4. 3 points
    Got it finished! 16-18 led headlights and led fog lights
  5. 3 points
    Winter tires perform better: -On dry pavement, in very cold temperatures -On wet pavement in cold temperatures -On snow -On ice It's not only on snow covered roads you see a benefit. Yes, smart driving strategies can prevent many accidents. Traveling at a safe speed, and following at a safe distance are always a good idea. However, sometimes when driving, you have to react to the poor decisions of other drivers. Having more traction when responding to emergency events could literally save your life. Like when some idiot on bald tires flies by you on the highway, changes lanes, loses control, and bounces off the median in front of you. But, you have a strong opinion, and I'm not going to change your mind. That's fine. Really though, I'm not spending a lot of coin on winter tires. The tires cost me about $400. I bought them used, after the previous owner used them for one winter. Like the tires, the wheels they are mounted on were from my old truck. I bought the wheels over 5 years ago. Winter tires wear a little bit faster than all season highway tires, sure, but not so much so that I have to replace them every couple of years. So, the money I spend on "faster tire wear" is nearly insignificant. I change them myself, so there is no cost to the seasonal swap. Next, you claim winter tires are wasting my time. I can mount my winter setup as fast, or faster than I could rotate 4 tires. If you think rotating your tires is a waste of time, I really should just stop typing now I suppose. Anyway, if my winter tires help me avoid one crash on the highway, on a dark winter night, far from home, I'd say they were worth a lifetime of seasonal tire changes. Have a safe winter, rkj__
  6. 2 points
    In case anybody is interested in a bed extender for your 2019, I was able to mount the same bed extender I have used on my 2010, 2014 and 2016 into the 2019. Getting the nuts on back of the mounting bolts is a little tricky due to the tight spaces but it works! In addition you can still access the 110v plug in the back.
  7. 2 points
    So, things finally came together. Amica appraiser came out. Initial damage estimate is 8500. No structure damage. No electrical damage. Amica talked w/ their customer. They have formally accepted liability. They have sent a tow truck to pick up my truck and take it to my shop of choice. They have authorized a truck as a rental. I'm a bit relieved! Thanks to everyone for all the input. Get a dash cam!
  8. 2 points
    No I believe you are mostly correct. The 10 speed is new for 2019, but (and I'm not 100% certain) I think you are right on it available as an option on the upper optioned trucks. As for pricing, well I bought a loaded out SLT with 6.2 for well under $60K but I get what you're saying, it would be nice if available in a single cab or whatever you wanted. It may be possible but I haven't seen one here locally.
  9. 2 points
    70mph is the speed limit, and I don’t much fancy being passed by semis and creating a rolling roadblock by going 65 or less on the interstate. As for a panic stop...eyes down the road, situational awareness and increased following distance mitigates the odds one will be necessary. In the event I do have to panic stop anyway, well, the trailer has brakes too...
  10. 2 points
    The time finally came to take the leap to the Duramax 💪🏽 Loved my ‘17 2500 gasser. Great piece of equipment. I hope the next owner appreciates it as much as I did. Definitely love power and capabilities of my new ‘19 3500. Enjoy 😊
  11. 2 points
    Seems we are trying to solve a problem WE created ...I don't care what anyone buys, drives, worships, modifies or blows up. Grumpy has the 4.3 and gets the most out of it and it seems to suit him and Pepper just fine, another member has a Supercharger on his 6.2 and seems happy too so it's all subjective to your wants/needs. I enjoy my 6.2 but I am sure if I had the 5.3 I would enjoy that too because I would have test drove it and found it satisfactory for my wants/need and if I had chosen the 4.3 I'd be happy with that too because again...I bought what I wanted/needed and don't really care what anyone else thinks, they didn't write the check!
  12. 2 points
    Thought I'd share where I placed my legends badge. When I signed up, I came to realize that I have only bought 2 brand new Chevrolet trucks, 1 SUV and 1 GMC truck but I have owned countless GM trucks and SUV's. I'm glad they recognize us fans. Here are a few of my favorites, but this one is my favorite so far!
  13. 2 points
    Well, besides all the crap this thread turned into, physics and theories and why no one needs a 6.2 since a 4.3 accelerates just as fast...yada yada yada....It just comes down to what you are comfortable spending and if YOU think its worth the extra money...Like stated before, before you order one, go test drive a 5.3 and a 6.2 back to back to see if you think it worth the money.... I got a 6.2 because its what I wanted... and the 23mpg on the highway is a bonus
  14. 2 points
    I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 LT, Crew Cab Short Bed, 4x4 with 5.3L and 3.42 gears. The truck's placarded payload is 1702, GVWR is 7200, GAWRF and GAWRR are both 3950, rated tow capacity is 9100, GCWR is 15,000. I have a 2018 Wildwood X-Lite 282QBXL, which is 32.5' long from tongue to spare tire. The 282QBXL has a placarded 6052 dry weight with a 626 spec tongue weight, and a GVWR of 7636. The truck pulls the trailer with absolutely ZERO issues running 70mph on the interstate, and IIRC I'm turning about 2700rpm at that speed. Like most wind sails, the trailer can get blown around a bit when its gusty but I haven't really experienced the "sucked in by semis" that some folks talk about. Pulling a long, decent grade hill I do get RPMs up around 4k to maintain 70mph, but its a naturally aspirated V8 and that's where the torque is so no big deal. Running 70mph I average about 10.5mpg while towing. Weigh slip is truck, full tank of gas, me, weight distributing hitch, trailer, battery, two full propane tanks and 2/3 fresh water tank. PLENTY of margin for my wife, two kids, and stuff.
  15. 2 points
    Not any more aerodynamic than a Class A motorhome, which the comparison being made. Actually, the reverse of your assertion. Go down to a commercial trailer location and take a close look at a 53 foot long / 8.5 foot wide / 13.5 foot tall dry van trailer and see if it looks any more aerodynamic than a Class A motorhome. Especially the back end. Please post pictures. Maybe the over 5 million miles I have been pulling them around, I lost perspective. A Class A motorhome does not have 3-4 foot gap midway like there is between semi tractor and trailer to generate turbulence. The Motorhome is a one piece deal with uniform air flow. And then there is the gap between bottom of that 53 foot trailer and the ground in comparison to that motorhome. Do you know of any motorhomes that have an over 3 foot distance between the bottom and sides of the motorhome and the ground? If so, again, please post pictures so we can all see this oddity. And let's see... how many tires have to be turned on the motorhome, each one offering resistance? Still waiting to see a Class A motorhome with 18 wheels and tires.... all of them 11" wide on 22.5" rims. Please post pictures. And lest I forget... not many motorhomes have a heavy duty 5 foot tall / 8.5 foot wide AliArc cattle guard on the front of them like I have on the front of my semi truck that also tends to mess with the frontal streamline air flow just a wee little bit.
  16. 2 points
    No regrets. Always want a bigger boat. Always want bigger tires. Always want more horsepower. Always want to see bigger boobs. With a 6.2, you can pull a bigger boat easily, have bigger tires, have more horsepower and bigger boobs come with the above 6.2. Warning, you may have to pay for the bigger boobs. Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. 2 points
    Pacific Blue with the CTX ceramic tint. So far no issues and love the truck.
  18. 2 points
    Tyler, that would have been a great post if you weren't a 5.3 owner doing the same hand waving and rationalizing as everybody else.
  19. 2 points
    Lot's of incorrect info in here. You will hear people spew stuff to try and justify their purchase or sell you on it. Words such as fun, lethargic, better mpg or saying the 5.3 can't merge on to an on ramp... What? Truth is the 6.2 doesn't get better mpg than the 5.3, simple tests have shown it and it is plain physics. The 6.2 truck isn't fast, it will get walked on by a V6 Camry, ohh muscle truck! Not... It isn't more fun, still the same sloppy handling boating riding high truck that stops the same and turns the same. The 6.2 comes down to two things, either you genuinely need the extra power for towing (it doesn't get significantly better mpg, TFL truck shower one tenth) or you have to further justify your purchase to everyone by saying you have a 6.2 4wd lifted truck on BFG KO's and think you are fast (remember the Hemi truck guys or Tundra guys when they thought they were fast?). The 6.2 might depreciate a little slower, not enough to notice a big difference in 5/10/15 years when you go to sell it. That is easily offset by the added up front costs, gas costs (including mpg), financing, insurance and so on. Completely up to you if you think it is worth it. Is the bigger motor a little more enjoyable to put the loud pedal down? Sure, but it isn't some massive difference than a 5.3 truck. On top of that the 5.3 can take E85 which gives it another 30 hp or so which the 6.2 can't. Your decision, my 5.3 runs just fine, if I want to go fast that is what the GTO is for. Enjoy the decision, it will be a great truck either way! Tyler
  20. 2 points
    Agree with the 6.2 camp. Just got my first 6.2 a few months ago and, IMO, it's much more fun to drive. I'm getting the same mileage as my 07' that had a 5.3. Funny story, my truck is at the dealer for a rear window leak and they gave me a 2018 5.3L as a loaner. As I'm driving it home I'm getting into it a little and I've just gotten so accustomed to the power the 6.2 delivers I swear I popped the hood the second I got home to check if it was the 5.3 or the 4.3 V6. Not saying the 5.3 is bad or weak. It did me fine for nearly a dozen years and towed my 25ft boat just fine. I originally went to the dealer to buy a truck set on getting another 5.3 but they didn't have a truck in the color or options I wanted with the 5.3 so I went with the 6.2 and don't regret it at all. Test drive both. You really can't go wrong with either.
  21. 1 point
    I have multiple sets of 22 inch wheels if anyone is interested. Pm for pricing. I will upload pics later. These are gm wheels not replicas nor recons.
  22. 1 point
    Yea it was morning time lots of Dew here . The inside is kinda what sold me on it , it's got the rear entertainment like my suburban and the kids really like that. I'm gonna do the hd hood swap they talk about in another thread I think.
  23. 1 point
    I just bought a sweet High Country 6.2 to replace my totaled Raptor. 6.2 All the way baby. I'm old school and in a truck gimme HP with a heavy dose of torque
  24. 1 point
    Your welcome. The OEM bracket is long and thin that fits perfect on the the extended side piece on either side of the bed. Just looking at the AMP bracket it may be too wide and require some additional modifications. Good Luck!
  25. 1 point
    So 4 years, 69k, a torque converter an ac compressor later... Still love it !
  26. 1 point
    That’s not correct. That’s their diarrhea of the mouth sales talk. Call up and ask the service manager, ask for his name and take note of time and date. If he says the same thing then call another dealership. You cannot be denied warranty on an install based on not having it done there but somewhere else instead. If you do take it somewhere and the installer screws something up well then you’re responsible. Sent from above
  27. 1 point
    For the original diagnosis, a popping noise would seem more like a top mount or ball joint than the actual shock. Might just need a little investigation & loosening/tightening some nuts & bolts. Sent from my Moto Z2 Play using Tapatalk
  28. 1 point
    Like this one lol!? They're a lot of fun to drive! My father-in-law has owned this red 2003 RCSB since new, less than 100k miles still. True granddad truck.
  29. 1 point
    Looks good Texas. You wont believe the difference in light output at night. This has got to be one of the most popular upgrades for us guys with the old style halogen headlights.
  30. 1 point
    I second the dirt king UCA. Mine have been nice. I just wish they had dust caps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Go with Kings and dirt king fab UCAS I love mine
  34. 1 point
    Good luck with it all. Feels like a nightmare at best. Nice truck too. I didn't care for them when introduced, but after seeing real world pics and a couple on the road, they look good.
  35. 1 point
    Phew! Was just looking. Gotta pay to play I guess...
  36. 1 point
    This is bada$$. I also got the 6.2 and love it. Question for you, how much of a performance loss did you notice? I don’t care that much about mpg, but I love the way it runs right now...
  37. 1 point
    Payload is the killer, not the weight of the trailer. You will easily max out your payload capacity long before you exceed the max towable amount.
  38. 1 point
    I wonder if anyone else sees that 8.5 mpg as really sad. I can get almost the same mpg from my Freightliner Class 8 semi truck with a 53' trailer on the back with 30,000 lb of cargo in it. It is really sad when a 8.3L Cummins gets no better mpg than a motor that is over 50% larger, turning more wheels, and grossing more weight.
  39. 1 point
    Welcome to the site, good motto for life, and well played on the addition of boobs to the post!!!
  40. 1 point
    Cool deal. I just joined up. I already knew I was a legend. Im on my 16th Chevy truck. 2.6 Million miles and counting.😎
  41. 1 point
    Installing 20x10 -24 Fuel Mavericks with Toyo AT2’s, 295/60/20, with a RC level kit. Should have them on by Saturday !!
  42. 1 point
    I did that same install a while back and went on to crutchfield and asked for their recommendation and provided them the specs of the system and they sold me on Polk DB+ speakers and I am very pleased with them Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  43. 1 point
    Seeing what ford released today regarding the 2020 explorer this model is already dead before it even gets started. The prices are laughable for what you get and it basically doesn't compare to even a hyundai imo. Just a total dud is what chevy has here, a fwd, boring knock off looking Lexus that cost almost as much as a Lexus!
  44. 1 point
    Dedicated winter tire setup is such a waste of money for 95% of the lower 48 states. In any sort of remotely populated area, most public roadways are plowed and salted. What is the real world amount of days that you are driving on snow covered roads. Seriously. I’ve extensively driven in 3 snow climates. NJ, VT, and ND. In ND they don’t salt the roads because it’s too cold. real world how many full days out of the year you’re actually driving on actual snow covered roads NJ - like 5 vt 10-20 ND 20-30 So some people suggest you shell out like $1600+ for a dedicated winter tire/wheel setup. And then you have to jack the truck up and take them on and off each year. All that for what, a few days of driving on snow? This is besides the fact, that snow tires only do one thing. They allow you to drive faster in snow. Take one vehicle and stop from 40mph in 100ft with snow tires, and you can accomplish the same task at likely 30mph with all seasons. Any sort of traction advantage with snow tires can be compensated by slower driving unless it involves getting unstuck. Lets face it, our trucks are not getting stuck with all-seasons unless it’s some serious stuff you’re in. I’ve driven through 3ft thick snow on a flat surface with all-seasons on a half ton and it was not intertia plowing. I could stop and start with no problem. A dedicated winter setup is for two types of people -you have a 2wd vehicle -you live in an area that sees so much snow that it’s just worth it to drive faster. Such as 20-30 days a year or more. other than that, waste of time and money
  45. 1 point
    .. just submitted my order for the UPR plug n play catch can for my truck via their website.. now the waiting for the shipping begins!
  46. 1 point
    Well my #1 option is the 6.2 and will not settle for the 5.3 so at this point the TB and RST we both out Ryan B.
  47. 1 point
    Finally got to mount my Fifteen52 TurboMacHD on. The truck is pretty dirty tho.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  48. 1 point
    The look good but you'll probably get better responses in the proper forum as this forum is the 2019 trucks.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Hillwood is correct on this topic, The AFM L-83 requires the 0-20 for a reason, the AFM lifters and the VVT systems have very small orifices that the oil must pass through and the timing of these systems are calibrated for this viscosity oil or expected application command of the systems will cause an error for the PCM and will "see" a delayed application... Use what the application calls for, why is this so hard to understand for some people? (I am a 30 Year ASE Master, L-1 technician) and I see the results of people who want to go against the grain on a daily basis. Thanks and have a wonderful and blessed day!
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