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Showing most liked content on 01/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Yesterday on Squaw Pass, Colorado...
  2. 4 points
    Frame? No issues. Exhaust: I replaced the OEM system with the Chevy Borla system at 25,339 miles. After I botched the installation, I installed a new one at 49,846. I replaced it again at 54,104 miles due to a rattle and a howl. They are sending me a new midpipe for the same howl, so that should hopefully cure it. Otherwise, I LOVE this system. Loud when you need it, quiet when you don't Bumpers? No issues. I clipped a metal fence post with the right front, and the deformation was more easily fixed by replacement than repair. Otherwise they have done well, and respond VERY well to Mother's all chrome. Bodywork: To be expected for 2015. The only accident damage I had was from hitting a metal fence post (think like a reflector pole) with the right front. The fender was repairable, the bumper and hood needed replacing, and the grille was replaced, though I still have the original. The headlight was also replaced, due to cracks, though everything functioned normally. I had to PDR a dent on the left front caused by a flying socket, and thanks to Impact, you can't tell it happened! Paint: I hate water based. Rock chip city. That being said, it's not too bad, just annoying. Glass: No issues. On 3rd windshield due to previous voluntary replacements. Interior: Fit and finish is good. Had to tighten a few bolts to get rid of those pesky vibrations/rattles (like a total of 4), but otherwise no issues. Steering wheel, center console, seating surfaces, and door panels have all worn VERY well. They look impressive for 100k miles. Infotainment: No issues. I love Chevy MyLink! Overall, VERY happy with my Chevy! I love my Silverado. 10/10 stars, would drive again!
  3. 3 points
    On January 10th, after roughly 2.5 years of driving, I crossed the 100k milestone Here's my experience with the K2XX platform, in specifics, the K2EC (Extended Chevy) layout. Drivetrain: Left rear axle seal replaced at 91,154 miles, as well as the oil cooler lines. Both were warranty items performed at no charge at my local Chevrolet dealer. They reported a small radiator leak, but coolant loss has been below detectable levels (I poke my head under the hood every fuel up, and have yet to notice anything). Other than that, there have been no concerns. Though there was a 4WD software reflash at 17, 285 miles, there has never been any issue with 4WD operation in high or low speed. The transmission....shifts like a charm. The first 1-2 shift, after a cold start, is lurchy, but after that it clears up. I have found that driving like a hooligan every once in a blue moon keeps it running great. Seriously, a launch from a dead stop to the govenor, as well as some spirited driving has a slight positive effect on the ol' butt dyno. At any rate, I have not visited the dealership for transmission issues. The trans, diffs, and transfer case have received fluid drain and fills every 35k so far, so perhaps that is of some assistance. The legendary L86....one of the primary requirements on the shopping list. Lives up to the hype, and then some, and some more after that. A freaking HOOT to drive. Amazing mileage when I want, and insane performance when I floor the loud pedal Quaker State Dexos every 5k, my Blackstone reports come back amazing, and no catch can. So far so good! Brakes are excellent. One fluid exchange at 68,735 miles. Still on the factory pads. I did have to change the left rear shoes (90,084) and cable (91,608) as a result of the axle seal leak, but I wasn't in the mood to argue with the dealer about warranty coverage. I'm on my 5th set of wheels. I swapped the factory 18s for polished 20s. Plains tire mutilated my first set, so I had a local set swap on a used set. Plains maimed the left rear, so I used that as an excuse to have Big O swap on 4 new ones. After a retread impact, White's gouging one and scratching another with the lug wrench, and White's shipping roughing the lip of one up, I broke down and got a new set of 4 this past week. At no point did I experience vibrations, runout, handling issues, or other problems due to the quality of the wheels. All defects were somewhat extraordinary cosmetic defects encountered in the real world. Yes, I am extremely picky, perhaps excessively so.
  4. 3 points
    Installed my heated steering wheel just in time...temp here this morning is 37...already got to try it out!
  5. 3 points
    Wasn't this guys original question Range or tune? LOL
  6. 3 points
    Entered 6 digit territory on January 10th, Kinda surreal to see that happen after 2.5 years. Happy to report he is running great with no issues. Maybe I'll leave a goodwill report in the K2 Section Time to register for Chevy Truck Legends! As a reward for him / birthday present for me he got his new wheels installed on January 15th. They got here in perfect shape, and they went on in perfect shape. Finally got a good guy at Big O, and to encourage him I gave him a 20 in an effort to encourage the continuation of such great work. Borla is also sending me a new front pipe, should be here monday. The current one has a banshee wail above 4k rpm, they labeled it as a bad valve. Excited to hopefully get my SIlverado sounding like a race truck above 4k RPM and not an F-14 spooling for takeoff Finally got my park brake adjusted properly. Turns out it helps when you use the GM spec clearance gauge, set proper gapping, and tension the cable accordingly. Now it holds against 1500 RPM engine speed on a 10 degree grade. Maybe not the best way to check it, but now I know it works
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    That explains why I didn't see it in the engine bay. Thanks
  9. 2 points
    Will lean towards the Kid is Hot Tonight and Working for the Weekend as my favorites from them.
  10. 2 points
    Hello everyone. Just had some new wheels installed on my truck. 22x12 Fuel Triton Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 2 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 2 points
    Here is what I did with the emblems and badges on my 2019. I never like where the GM marketing people think badges and emblems should go. Since the truck is new the adhesive on the letters let go of the paint and stayed on the letters. All I had to do was use a heat gun and a small Flathead screwdriver. Once the letter was hot I carefully put the tip of the screwdriver under the letter and pulled it off the truck with the adhesive intact and then it is ready to be stuck on the truck wherever I want. I used wax & grease remover on the areas where the emblems were moved to. All the other letters I did not use got stuck on a piece of wax paper to save the adhesive in case I want to use them later for something. I removed the 6.2 L emblems from the hood. Then I removed the high country emblems from the fenders. I took the mountains and placed them in a position where I liked them on the fenders. The bar under the mountains is attached to the letter H so I used a razor knife and chopped the H off. Then I took some silver paint and touched up the end of the bar and placed it under the mountains. Then I moved to the tailgate. I removed all the emblems and placed the mountains on the lower left. I had to do the same thing with the H, chop the bar off. The 6.2L was then applied to the lower right side. Then I put my business name in chrome GM letters on the middle of the tailgate. I saved a bunch of emblems from GM jobs I have done and was able to spell out BEARD BROTHERS.
  13. 2 points
    Off-road carbon trim part numbers for a crew cab Front left 84295680 Front right 84295681 Rear left 84317065 Rear right 84317066 Console with 110v outlet 84272399 Console without 110v outlet 84092073 Double cab rear doors Rear left 22837216 Rear right 84317604 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 2 points
  15. 1 point
    I picked up a GM accessory illuminated front bowtie ($275 list price) from the dealer and installed it today. Looks awesome at night! Here is a step by step to show anyone else that wants to install their own. Open the hood and remove the hood safety latch handle, it uses 2 torx bit screws. It needs to be removed to get the upper radiator cover off. Take out the push-pins holding the radiator cover on and then remove it. Then take out the 10mm bolts that hold the top of the grill in. Next pull the top of the grill out, it has a little catch on all the top parts. You have to lift it up then pull it out. Then grab the grill above and below the main bar next to a light and pull the grill away from the light. It is tight and you will probably think you are going to break it but it will come loose. Do the same with the other one. Once the grill is pulled back you can get to the backside of the emblem. Now you can get the old bowtie out, reach in there and 4 tabs hold it in. Just push the tabs and it will pop out. Once it is out put your wiring through the hole, hook up the new bowtie and snap it into place. Now run your wiring along the upper radiator support and in behind the left headlight. Then disconnect the truck headlight connector and connect your illuminted bowtie wiring harness to it, then connect the bowtie harness into the headlight. Secure all the wires and turn on your lights and test it. It should be fully functional. Ok, now you just put everything back together in reverse order. Getting the grill all snapped back in is easier with 2 people to line everything up. Make sure you have all the tabs and pins lined up before you push it in or you could snap them off. The grill is sort of at an angle and you have to lift, line up all pins and tabs and then push it in.
  16. 1 point
    https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/chevrolet-full-scale-lego-silverado-detroit-auto-show/ Looks like a crew cab standard bed.
  17. 1 point
    The dog dish style! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. How about baby moons?
  18. 1 point
    First of very nice install sir. I need that light switch in red anyone got a part number?
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Not everyone is a do it yourself type of person. Some people always need help from others. Someone here is a prime candidate of getting stuck overnight on an escalator waiting rescue.
  21. 1 point
    Boy I really have to stay more focused on the darn spell checker in my laptop...... crew call models? How about crew cab models.
  22. 1 point
    Really like this lift and truck looks great! How do you like the Ridge's? Glad you like your cst lift. Been looking hard at the mid-travel kit.
  23. 1 point
    Fifteen52 TurboMac HD 20x9-12 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
    FYI - Range Technology already has a plug in to eliminate start/stop
  25. 1 point
    I agree with all you guys. Nothing beats chrome and black. I'm so tired of the spare tire look of black wheels. F'ing ugly .
  26. 1 point
    Well I found the article interesting. Agree that the data has it's issues like more miles per oil change. Being I still do 3 K mile oil changes with off the shelf oil, it works for me. I have used a variety of oil over the years including Super Tech with fleet oil filters for years with no issues. I used dino oil in everything until I bought my used 2012 Sierra in Nov. of 2015. It required Dexos 1 oil for the remainder of the warranty so I switched to Quaker State Semi- synthetic. I switched the wife's Accord also to avoid buying 2 different oils. I will be changing from Quaker State semi-synthetic to Castrol GTX Magnetec full synthetic oil for my truck and the wife's Accord. I will also be changing oil filters. From the fleet filters I have been using for years to a Wix 57045 for my truck. The Accord will get a Wix stock oil filter to. This upgrade of oil and filters I suppose was over due but I never had any motor problems so I stuck with it.
  27. 1 point
    Get up to highway speed and Shift into neutral when safe to do so and start applying the bakes, and if it still does the pulsation its in the brakes.
  28. 1 point
    I got a 6.2 LTZ Z71 on order and really dislike the location the Z71 will be at. They shortened the engine bay, then in that small space on the fender decided to cram a huge 3D emblem. I mean not into debadging, usually like the location of the Z71 DECAL on the back bed panel behind the wheel. Im just curious how it’ll look, and how odd it’ll be being the only person with the decal in that location. I also have have the dealer installing the 2 inch lift, black grille pieces, black handle, mirror covers, window trim, bumpers, and wheel(black 22s though). But essentially I’ll have a completely loaded down 6.2 LTZ that’s a trail boss. So also pondering the idea of just putting the trail boss decal back there, but feel like a fraud if I do that. I just love the look of the trail boss. I just ordered the the truck a couple days ago so I got time to ponder
  29. 1 point
    On my computer it doesn't show it as discontinued... GM Part No.: 20968135
  30. 1 point
    Thanks bud, I will consider my options here. Definitely get back with you on something. Like I said, while I don’t wanna spend $1200 on a set of towing mirrors, I think I could possibly swallow that pill of $7-800 as long as it retained full functionality that my DL3 mirrors have, which I could probably resell anyways. You don’t by chance know the going rate for a set of gently used DL3s do ya? Hahah Thanks again Phil, it really speaks volumes about your personal character that you take so much of your time to help complete strangers out when it comes to this matter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  31. 1 point
    Yes and no, to answer the question about the transmission. If you like the truck otherwise, I would not give up just because of this issue. In my personal experience with GM's warranty is that they will take care of you, it may take some time, but they will make you happy.
  32. 1 point
    Hey, have you noticed that there is now a rating system for replies? See I am pretty damn smrt, (yea that was intended), big brother likes my thinking.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks. I have to say, its super rare that i go 3 days without washing it. It pretty much looks like that all the time. Even right now, but it does have an inch of snow on it.
  34. 1 point
    Try GMPartsdirect.com, they usually have some of the best prices, but shipping might get you though.
  35. 1 point
    Just installed the Ranch Hand.
  36. 1 point
    In the USA we drive on the right. Two lane roads are crowned. A quarter degree more castor on the drivers side and a quarter degree more POSITIVE camber (less negative in an all negative setup) on the drivers side assist the car in going straight on a crowned road. Your second question is been asked and answered as well as it can be. Your not liking the answer. Sorry. Maybe someone else will give it a stab in the dark. You answer your own third question.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Un-derailling the thread ;) 295/70-17 nitto g2's 17x8.5 method mesh bronze Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Oh if you need more adjustment they sell offset bushings as well. Normal the lower you go the more negative camber happens in the suspension. And it a good thing. Go up you get positive. Very good suspension from aftermarket manufacturers can stop most of this. But back to you. I would go factory or a little negative knowing that on downward travel there would be more negative. Again negative helps in handling on hard turns but caster can cause scrub this is where in or out side of tires as it rolls to the tires edge on turn. Again toe out helps on turn in as the tires want to turn but at straight high speeds make the car dart and too sensitive to input. Toe in helps with straight line stability. Both cause a amount tire wear. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  43. 1 point
    WOW are we getting lazy, Really,,,, push start, then press auto start off. I remember manually unlock door with key, put key in ignition, push in clutch, shift into neutral, pull out choke, pump gas pedal, then step on starter pedal and nobody was on the forum whining. Of course this was my 1951 chevy truck.
  44. 1 point
    The new 10 speed does not have sharp shifts in all gears, it will skip gears and usually does a slow shift going from 1 to 3 and then to 5. if in normal driving mode. at least that's how it works in the ford, same transmission.
  45. 1 point
    A few recent pics of mine. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    A lot of blue trucks on this forum. Fortunately, I don't see a lot of them running around my area.
  47. 1 point
    Blue Kings added Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  48. 1 point
    Loyalty means nothing to auto manufacturers now a days.. You should have learned that by now.
  49. 1 point
    A bigger fuel tank option would be nice.
  50. 1 point
    Sure I'll try, haven't posted a pic on this forum yet, but here goes. Go to Amazon or similar and order these: 1N4004 400V 1A Axial Lead Silicon Rectifier Diodes You only need one really but order 25 as it's just as cheap once you take into account shipping if you try to order just one. Plus if you bend or break the one diode, you have back ups. Then you'll look under your dash above your gas pedal. You'll see a bunch of small power blocks inserted into a larger one. You want to locate the BROWN one. At the top you see a release latch. Go ahead and push it in and pull the small BROWN electrical block out of the larger one. Twist it around so it's oriented with the release latch up. Using the diagram in the picture I've attached, locate pin/cable slot #10. It's obviously 2 slots over from #8 that's marked on the diagram. Insert one end of the electrical diode down into that #10 slot. If needed use a needle nose pliers. The diode pins are pretty bendable so just make sure you get some of it down into the #10 slot. Then go down to the bottom (last row away from the release latch and go to slot #22 (clearly one over from the #21 that's marked in the diagram). Push the other end of the diode down into the #22 slot. Once you have them both in the #10 slot and the #22 slot, you've made a jumper "bridge" between the two. Gently twist the BROWN electrical cube back so it's oriented and push it back into it's motherboard. It will click back in. Insert key in your ignition and test it out. You're FOG LIGHTS should automatically be ON if your low beam headlights are ON. When your low beam headlights are OFF, the fog lights will also be OFF. You can now just leave the dash mounted headlight selector in AUTO and your low beams and your fog lights will both automatically come on each and every time your headlights come on, and go off when the headlights go off. All done.
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