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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Yesterday on Squaw Pass, Colorado...
  2. 4 points
    Frame? No issues. Exhaust: I replaced the OEM system with the Chevy Borla system at 25,339 miles. After I botched the installation, I installed a new one at 49,846. I replaced it again at 54,104 miles due to a rattle and a howl. They are sending me a new midpipe for the same howl, so that should hopefully cure it. Otherwise, I LOVE this system. Loud when you need it, quiet when you don't Bumpers? No issues. I clipped a metal fence post with the right front, and the deformation was more easily fixed by replacement than repair. Otherwise they have done well, and respond VERY well to Mother's all chrome. Bodywork: To be expected for 2015. The only accident damage I had was from hitting a metal fence post (think like a reflector pole) with the right front. The fender was repairable, the bumper and hood needed replacing, and the grille was replaced, though I still have the original. The headlight was also replaced, due to cracks, though everything functioned normally. I had to PDR a dent on the left front caused by a flying socket, and thanks to Impact, you can't tell it happened! Paint: I hate water based. Rock chip city. That being said, it's not too bad, just annoying. Glass: No issues. On 3rd windshield due to previous voluntary replacements. Interior: Fit and finish is good. Had to tighten a few bolts to get rid of those pesky vibrations/rattles (like a total of 4), but otherwise no issues. Steering wheel, center console, seating surfaces, and door panels have all worn VERY well. They look impressive for 100k miles. Infotainment: No issues. I love Chevy MyLink! Overall, VERY happy with my Chevy! I love my Silverado. 10/10 stars, would drive again!
  3. 3 points
    On January 10th, after roughly 2.5 years of driving, I crossed the 100k milestone Here's my experience with the K2XX platform, in specifics, the K2EC (Extended Chevy) layout. Drivetrain: Left rear axle seal replaced at 91,154 miles, as well as the oil cooler lines. Both were warranty items performed at no charge at my local Chevrolet dealer. They reported a small radiator leak, but coolant loss has been below detectable levels (I poke my head under the hood every fuel up, and have yet to notice anything). Other than that, there have been no concerns. Though there was a 4WD software reflash at 17, 285 miles, there has never been any issue with 4WD operation in high or low speed. The transmission....shifts like a charm. The first 1-2 shift, after a cold start, is lurchy, but after that it clears up. I have found that driving like a hooligan every once in a blue moon keeps it running great. Seriously, a launch from a dead stop to the govenor, as well as some spirited driving has a slight positive effect on the ol' butt dyno. At any rate, I have not visited the dealership for transmission issues. The trans, diffs, and transfer case have received fluid drain and fills every 35k so far, so perhaps that is of some assistance. The legendary L86....one of the primary requirements on the shopping list. Lives up to the hype, and then some, and some more after that. A freaking HOOT to drive. Amazing mileage when I want, and insane performance when I floor the loud pedal Quaker State Dexos every 5k, my Blackstone reports come back amazing, and no catch can. So far so good! Brakes are excellent. One fluid exchange at 68,735 miles. Still on the factory pads. I did have to change the left rear shoes (90,084) and cable (91,608) as a result of the axle seal leak, but I wasn't in the mood to argue with the dealer about warranty coverage. I'm on my 5th set of wheels. I swapped the factory 18s for polished 20s. Plains tire mutilated my first set, so I had a local set swap on a used set. Plains maimed the left rear, so I used that as an excuse to have Big O swap on 4 new ones. After a retread impact, White's gouging one and scratching another with the lug wrench, and White's shipping roughing the lip of one up, I broke down and got a new set of 4 this past week. At no point did I experience vibrations, runout, handling issues, or other problems due to the quality of the wheels. All defects were somewhat extraordinary cosmetic defects encountered in the real world. Yes, I am extremely picky, perhaps excessively so.
  4. 3 points
    Installed my heated steering wheel just in time...temp here this morning is 37...already got to try it out!
  5. 3 points
    Wasn't this guys original question Range or tune? LOL
  6. 3 points
    Entered 6 digit territory on January 10th, Kinda surreal to see that happen after 2.5 years. Happy to report he is running great with no issues. Maybe I'll leave a goodwill report in the K2 Section Time to register for Chevy Truck Legends! As a reward for him / birthday present for me he got his new wheels installed on January 15th. They got here in perfect shape, and they went on in perfect shape. Finally got a good guy at Big O, and to encourage him I gave him a 20 in an effort to encourage the continuation of such great work. Borla is also sending me a new front pipe, should be here monday. The current one has a banshee wail above 4k rpm, they labeled it as a bad valve. Excited to hopefully get my SIlverado sounding like a race truck above 4k RPM and not an F-14 spooling for takeoff Finally got my park brake adjusted properly. Turns out it helps when you use the GM spec clearance gauge, set proper gapping, and tension the cable accordingly. Now it holds against 1500 RPM engine speed on a 10 degree grade. Maybe not the best way to check it, but now I know it works
  7. 2 points
    Here is what I did with the emblems and badges on my 2019. I never like where the GM marketing people think badges and emblems should go. Since the truck is new the adhesive on the letters let go of the paint and stayed on the letters. All I had to do was use a heat gun and a small Flathead screwdriver. Once the letter was hot I carefully put the tip of the screwdriver under the letter and pulled it off the truck with the adhesive intact and then it is ready to be stuck on the truck wherever I want. I used wax & grease remover on the areas where the emblems were moved to. All the other letters I did not use got stuck on a piece of wax paper to save the adhesive in case I want to use them later for something. I removed the 6.2 L emblems from the hood. Then I removed the high country emblems from the fenders. I took the mountains and placed them in a position where I liked them on the fenders. The bar under the mountains is attached to the letter H so I used a razor knife and chopped the H off. Then I took some silver paint and touched up the end of the bar and placed it under the mountains. Then I moved to the tailgate. I removed all the emblems and placed the mountains on the lower left. I had to do the same thing with the H, chop the bar off. The 6.2L was then applied to the lower right side. Then I put my business name in chrome GM letters on the middle of the tailgate. I saved a bunch of emblems from GM jobs I have done and was able to spell out BEARD BROTHERS.
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    That explains why I didn't see it in the engine bay. Thanks
  10. 2 points
    Will lean towards the Kid is Hot Tonight and Working for the Weekend as my favorites from them.
  11. 2 points
    Hello everyone. Just had some new wheels installed on my truck. 22x12 Fuel Triton Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 2 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 2 points
    Off-road carbon trim part numbers for a crew cab Front left 84295680 Front right 84295681 Rear left 84317065 Rear right 84317066 Console with 110v outlet 84272399 Console without 110v outlet 84092073 Double cab rear doors Rear left 22837216 Rear right 84317604 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 2 points
  15. 1 point
    Cried when my registration bill came in at $681. Gotta love CA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    Times are changing very fast, you are right about that. I personally don’t agree with the whole electric vehicle though. I think it’s a big out of sight out of mind. One person may look at it as hey I’m not using gas for my car while I’m looking at it as you’re putting a higher demand on the power companies, higher load on the generators means higher fuel consumption of whatever they’re burning. It may not seem like much and to be honest charging the few electric cars there are nowadays may not be but when we are all driving electric major things are going to need to be changed with our power grid to hold up to the demand. And then let’s say somebody is in a rural area up north for exapmle and power goes out in a storm. It’s not nearly as easy to store electricity as it is to have a spare fuel barrel. IC engines will be around for quite some time yet, the US needs to push Diesel engines harder. The efficiency between diesel and gas just don’t compare. Just my 2 cents.
  17. 1 point
    don't know why any one would choose black over chrome..... whether exhaust tips or wheels.
  18. 1 point
    California is amazing. By shear numbers there are a lot of car and truck enthusiast here. The Lib-tards that run the state have done an excellent job at killing everything. Almost all Motorsports, guns, small business. Anything normal men enjoy has a tax or restriction on it. And made it a heaven for: Homeless, criminals, illegals, cho-mos, & all types of dopers. Cal Gov gets a huge chunk of your income any and everyway they can and provide nothing in return (no cops or streets). The state is currently being run aground. The rules were not THAT bad until the prop 65 madness kicked in recently. Now you can't have hardly any engine mods without becoming a outlaw. They want everyone to take public transportation and ban gasoline automobiles. If we are lucky we can ride a green bike (literally lime green), or electric scooter. Have to move out of state to get headers. sign an offroad use waiver to tune. no E.O# can't use it. is as stupid as it sounds.
  19. 1 point
    The CAI kit took in air from the same location as the stock box but it had a larger opening as well as the larger smooth air duct and high flow filter.
  20. 1 point
    Range Device or Tune? I chose Tune! Sent from above
  21. 1 point
    Something that needs to be aware of is that when truck is in drive, 1st gear has zero engine braking. This means that when you are coasting to a "near stop", then pressing the accelerator, if the transmission zzhas alreadyz shifted into low gear, the engine will instantly increase in rpm's to catch up to your speed . Manual ow gear(when you manually select low or 1st gear} will give you engine braking. I don't know how it works in GM transmissions, but in the old style torqueflyte transmissions, when shifted to low gear it would apply the low/reverse band to enable engine braking. Otherwise the overrunning(or one way) clutch would just freewheel. Back in those days I would just adjust the governor mounted on the output shaft by changing a small spring. Could do that without removing entire transmission, just needed to slide the extension housing back about 4 inches. The easiest way to see this is to put the truck in manual low gear before you get to the corner, or to the thing that normally made the issue you are having. If the issue goes away, then the transmission is downshifting into automatic low and behaving correctly. Or you could make yourself aware of the situation and alter your driving habits. This never happened prior to current technology because current technology has removed engine braking in most gears to help emissions and improve fuel economy. I don't know if this is something that can be tuned better or not, but GM should be aware of it happening. Maybe if more people complained more about it, GM may look into a simple minor adjustment to the firmware to better handle how it downshifts into low gear.
  22. 1 point
    The Ford/GM 10 speed trans is a much better transmission. I have had my 2017 Yukon Denali in to a very good dealer twice. They found an obscure computer program and reflashed the computer. It had to go through a whole new learning period. As time went on I'm right back to where I was before. There are times when I make a slow left turn without stopping and slowly accelerate up a short street that has a steep incline. As I feather the throttle up the hill, it slams into first gear so hard our heads hit the headrest. Once, while driving in a busy parking lot, as traffic started moving, the trans shifted unexpectedly into 2nd causing the truck to lurch forward. I could have easily hit the car ahead if I didn't hit the brakes quickly. Also, I often drive on a highway with a 55mph limit and several signal lights. When a signal far ahead turns red I slowly decelerate. As I get to the light the trans drops harshly into first causing me to let off the brake and making the stop real sloppy.
  23. 1 point
    Makes sense. That wouldn’t instill confidence in me either.
  24. 1 point
    My please sir. I know how frustrating and confusing this upgrade can be and I’m glad I can continue helping members here where I can. Used DL3s can range based on condition. I sell like new take offs (2017-2018 with less than 7500 miles) for about $375-$400 for the pair shipped. On average, I think ~$300 is fair. This can help absorb the cost of the upgrade. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
    Wish list..... quick detach removable rear seat from both extended and crew call models.
  26. 1 point
    The detailed information certainly helps. Based on the symptoms, this is a classic case mirror where they did indeed tied the running light and turn signals together. This is why the front lights exhibited the behavior. By tying these two circuits together, what is happening is that voltage was being backfed and introduced into the running light/park light circuit and Vice versa. Park lights come on, turn signals in the glass would come. Or some similar symptom. The cargo light wouldn’t have worked since you didn’t swap out the door harnesses. The running light on the mirror was tied to your old puddle lamp (white downward shining light on your DL3 Mirror). So that amber light on your tow mirror would have come on at night, only when unlocking your truck. When I started this thread 3 years ago, I kept a running list of “mirrors to stay away from”. If I recall, DEDC was one of them. The list got WAY to long that I stopped gathering data and now only offer suggestions to what works. GM Factory Mirrors, 1A Auto/AM Auto, Syppo. The aftermarket space for tow mirrors is so flooded right now that it’s hard to tell who’s what. Many of them sourcing the mirrors from the same China vendor (or wherever they are coming from) as the symptoms are always the same. If you want to retain your SLT features, a good aftermarket alternative are mirrors from 1A Auto or AM Auto. They range from $450 - $650 depending on cap options, and if you need diesel exhaust brake support. Here is a set to look at. https://www.am-autoparts.com/products/side-view-mirrors/AM-2558332961.html The harness build for these mirrors are $310. I refund $100 if you send me your factory harnesses. Hope this helps. It’ll be all Plug and Play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    My point exactly to the OP about JUNKYARD parts.
  28. 1 point
    Off of the topic, that's a really good looking truck! I remember a couple of months ago when mine was clean....
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Swapped my chrome trim for another members black trim (Bobaloo22)
  31. 1 point
    Will see how it all turns out. A niece of mine got into auto sales at a Ford/Chrysler/Jeep dealership about a year ago. She was a school teacher. Hope she doesn't turn into a moron doing that. At least she is educated and can learn.
  32. 1 point
    Can you elaborate on "front turn signals not operating properly"? If you have an SLT and didn't swap the door harnesses, and just plugged the mirrors in...that's tells me something. Tells me that that mirrors you installed are aftermarket, and have their running light/turn signals tied to the same circuit. This is a common practice among many after mirrors. So now that somewhat understand your path, in that you want go from DL3 to DQS mirrors, I can help With your set, you should already have: Power Fold, Power Adjust, Heat, Driver Side Dimming, Mirror memory, turn signal in the glass, puddle lamp (shines downward). GM DQS Tow Mirrors have: Power Fold, Power Adjust, Heat, Mirror Memory, Turn Signal in the Glass, Amber running light, white LED cargo light (some call this reverse/spot/flood). If this is the path to your upgrade desire, then I can build you harness for it. I can also supply you (by way of my GM parts Supplier) the mirrors as well. Here is the pricing breakdown: $1058 - GM DQS Tow Mirrors. Caps can be textured black or chrome. Same price. This is shipped anywhere in the US. $285 - Door Harnesses. This is for the pair, also shipped anywhere in the US. This is build/shipped by me. I also refund $100 back IF you send me your factory harnesses. There should be any need for BCM work needed. I am not sure what all you have done for your existing mirrors. I also don't know if you're looking to replace the tow mirror you already purchased. If there was ANY wiring done in the door harness, inside the cab, etc., that would be have to be reverted back. My DIY Kit is $65 shipped. This kit allows you to make the modification to both door harness to re-pin them to work for the tow mirrors. Let me know if you need any more info/help on this. Thanks, Phil
  33. 1 point
    Hopefully this helps. The rear is the exact same but there is no screw behind the trim under the window switch. So you dont take that off. Also, i never lift off the panel. I pull it straight out towards me. That way you dont mess with the clips. You just push the panel in towards the door.
  34. 1 point
    GM has no obligation to keep plants in the US. I wish they would but wishes don't get us anywhere. GM will (especially with the trucks) leverage the crap out of Chevy being a huge piece of Americana in marketing, but when it comes down to it, they're all about pleasing shareholders and making money. That inevitably means taking advantage of the very lopsided NAFTA that we can thank both sides in DC for agreeing to. But it isn't all on GM. The UAW has made the cost of manufacturing cars here untenable. You simply cannot build a car that costs the same as something from Honda or Toyota when you're paying a substantially higher hourly wage and offering world-class benefits that the workers in those other plants do not get. The benefits and pay at the "foreign" plants are hardly slave wages either- they're normal wages for a manufacturing job. It is a sad time though. For some time now even the Fort Wayne built trucks have had low 40% US/Canadian part content with a higher percentage of parts coming from Mexico. I remember seeing one Accord (last generation) window sticker with a US part content at like 80%. Which brand is doing more for the blue collar worker?
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    I had to sacrifice a diode for its wires and solder them to the one I was using for the jump and it worked a lot better for me. Bifocals suck sometimes! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  37. 1 point
    Blizzard coming this afternoon, probably the last time the truck will be this clean until spring...
  38. 1 point
    most of us probably should have gotten a silverado and a vasectomy before the suburban became necessary ...
  39. 1 point
    This makes the most sense to me. I think you made the right call. Enjoy your trip! We've been doing family vacations with multiple non-related familys (neighbors), and I'm all for helping them out with alittle of this or a little of that. Carrying an extra cooler or suitcase, etc. But at some point if it starts hampering my ability to go, we draw a line and move along with our plans. Kept one family from going a few years ago, but with 2 adults, 2 kids, and a dog in the cab, a weeks worth of stuff in the bed, and the boat packed like a Uhaul trailer I was legitimately out of space. Between the other familys boat, our boat, and the cabin we had space to store/entertain the people, but not the vehicle space to get them there.
  40. 1 point
    I am having the same issue. Seems to have gone away again, but I am assuming it is only because it has been slightly warmer. This is definitely an issue GM should be working on. It is different than simply the terrible parking sensors beeping when moisture is present, which is an entirely different complaint.
  41. 1 point
    Haha that is awesome! I remember seeing one of those trees but it must have been like 10 years ago. Sounds like you guys did some pretty awesome loops, 175 miles in a day is a real good trip! We haven't ridden the east side of the UP much, mostly because the last few years the snows seem to have been so sketchy. Always just been going to Munising doing the same East loop and West loop for the last 2 years. Each year we have been venturing off trail more and more. I use VVMapping to help out with that.
  42. 1 point
    For anything over 5k, GM recommends a WD hitch. Very few people do it though. They just look at the max they can tow and figure they are good.
  43. 1 point
    Not bad.^ Took my attic from 6" of cellulose to 12-15 depending on the spot. That's R44 to R55. HVAC company wanted $3000 to get to R38, cost me $550. Some spots might be R60 minimum, bought plenty so I completely covered quite a few ducts completely, and a 24 inch tall return. Should have parked all my cars at the curb, didnt think it would carry that far. No new holes in the Ceiling, but did have a close call.
  44. 1 point
    Wife said she could not find the truck since I removed the lift and chrome accessories. So I was forced to add some details. Opted for a 90s Chevy Sport Truck decal kit.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    A few shots of our 2018 Elevation Crew Cab in Stone Blue with custom taillights, debadge, and 20% tint.
  48. 1 point
    Life is like a bunch of GM Transmissions..... You Never Know What You're Gonna Get!
  49. 1 point
    That is one of the sharpest looking front ends I have ever seen in this generation of trucks!
  50. 1 point
    The gas pedal is mounted to a molded plastic plate that attaches to the firewall. The plate isn't supported directly behind the pedal and it flexes slightly when the pedal is first pressed. Adding something between the plate and firewall stops the flex and makes the throttle more responsive. I don't believe the trucks with adjustable pedals have the issue though.
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