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Showing most liked content on 01/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Yesterday on Squaw Pass, Colorado...
  2. 4 points
    Frame? No issues. Exhaust: I replaced the OEM system with the Chevy Borla system at 25,339 miles. After I botched the installation, I installed a new one at 49,846. I replaced it again at 54,104 miles due to a rattle and a howl. They are sending me a new midpipe for the same howl, so that should hopefully cure it. Otherwise, I LOVE this system. Loud when you need it, quiet when you don't Bumpers? No issues. I clipped a metal fence post with the right front, and the deformation was more easily fixed by replacement than repair. Otherwise they have done well, and respond VERY well to Mother's all chrome. Bodywork: To be expected for 2015. The only accident damage I had was from hitting a metal fence post (think like a reflector pole) with the right front. The fender was repairable, the bumper and hood needed replacing, and the grille was replaced, though I still have the original. The headlight was also replaced, due to cracks, though everything functioned normally. I had to PDR a dent on the left front caused by a flying socket, and thanks to Impact, you can't tell it happened! Paint: I hate water based. Rock chip city. That being said, it's not too bad, just annoying. Glass: No issues. On 3rd windshield due to previous voluntary replacements. Interior: Fit and finish is good. Had to tighten a few bolts to get rid of those pesky vibrations/rattles (like a total of 4), but otherwise no issues. Steering wheel, center console, seating surfaces, and door panels have all worn VERY well. They look impressive for 100k miles. Infotainment: No issues. I love Chevy MyLink! Overall, VERY happy with my Chevy! I love my Silverado. 10/10 stars, would drive again!
  3. 3 points
    On January 10th, after roughly 2.5 years of driving, I crossed the 100k milestone Here's my experience with the K2XX platform, in specifics, the K2EC (Extended Chevy) layout. Drivetrain: Left rear axle seal replaced at 91,154 miles, as well as the oil cooler lines. Both were warranty items performed at no charge at my local Chevrolet dealer. They reported a small radiator leak, but coolant loss has been below detectable levels (I poke my head under the hood every fuel up, and have yet to notice anything). Other than that, there have been no concerns. Though there was a 4WD software reflash at 17, 285 miles, there has never been any issue with 4WD operation in high or low speed. The transmission....shifts like a charm. The first 1-2 shift, after a cold start, is lurchy, but after that it clears up. I have found that driving like a hooligan every once in a blue moon keeps it running great. Seriously, a launch from a dead stop to the govenor, as well as some spirited driving has a slight positive effect on the ol' butt dyno. At any rate, I have not visited the dealership for transmission issues. The trans, diffs, and transfer case have received fluid drain and fills every 35k so far, so perhaps that is of some assistance. The legendary L86....one of the primary requirements on the shopping list. Lives up to the hype, and then some, and some more after that. A freaking HOOT to drive. Amazing mileage when I want, and insane performance when I floor the loud pedal Quaker State Dexos every 5k, my Blackstone reports come back amazing, and no catch can. So far so good! Brakes are excellent. One fluid exchange at 68,735 miles. Still on the factory pads. I did have to change the left rear shoes (90,084) and cable (91,608) as a result of the axle seal leak, but I wasn't in the mood to argue with the dealer about warranty coverage. I'm on my 5th set of wheels. I swapped the factory 18s for polished 20s. Plains tire mutilated my first set, so I had a local set swap on a used set. Plains maimed the left rear, so I used that as an excuse to have Big O swap on 4 new ones. After a retread impact, White's gouging one and scratching another with the lug wrench, and White's shipping roughing the lip of one up, I broke down and got a new set of 4 this past week. At no point did I experience vibrations, runout, handling issues, or other problems due to the quality of the wheels. All defects were somewhat extraordinary cosmetic defects encountered in the real world. Yes, I am extremely picky, perhaps excessively so.
  4. 3 points
    Installed my heated steering wheel just in time...temp here this morning is 37...already got to try it out!
  5. 3 points
    Wasn't this guys original question Range or tune? LOL
  6. 3 points
    Entered 6 digit territory on January 10th, Kinda surreal to see that happen after 2.5 years. Happy to report he is running great with no issues. Maybe I'll leave a goodwill report in the K2 Section Time to register for Chevy Truck Legends! As a reward for him / birthday present for me he got his new wheels installed on January 15th. They got here in perfect shape, and they went on in perfect shape. Finally got a good guy at Big O, and to encourage him I gave him a 20 in an effort to encourage the continuation of such great work. Borla is also sending me a new front pipe, should be here monday. The current one has a banshee wail above 4k rpm, they labeled it as a bad valve. Excited to hopefully get my SIlverado sounding like a race truck above 4k RPM and not an F-14 spooling for takeoff Finally got my park brake adjusted properly. Turns out it helps when you use the GM spec clearance gauge, set proper gapping, and tension the cable accordingly. Now it holds against 1500 RPM engine speed on a 10 degree grade. Maybe not the best way to check it, but now I know it works
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    That explains why I didn't see it in the engine bay. Thanks
  9. 2 points
    Will lean towards the Kid is Hot Tonight and Working for the Weekend as my favorites from them.
  10. 2 points
    Hello everyone. Just had some new wheels installed on my truck. 22x12 Fuel Triton Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 2 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 2 points
    Here is what I did with the emblems and badges on my 2019. I never like where the GM marketing people think badges and emblems should go. Since the truck is new the adhesive on the letters let go of the paint and stayed on the letters. All I had to do was use a heat gun and a small Flathead screwdriver. Once the letter was hot I carefully put the tip of the screwdriver under the letter and pulled it off the truck with the adhesive intact and then it is ready to be stuck on the truck wherever I want. I used wax & grease remover on the areas where the emblems were moved to. All the other letters I did not use got stuck on a piece of wax paper to save the adhesive in case I want to use them later for something. I removed the 6.2 L emblems from the hood. Then I removed the high country emblems from the fenders. I took the mountains and placed them in a position where I liked them on the fenders. The bar under the mountains is attached to the letter H so I used a razor knife and chopped the H off. Then I took some silver paint and touched up the end of the bar and placed it under the mountains. Then I moved to the tailgate. I removed all the emblems and placed the mountains on the lower left. I had to do the same thing with the H, chop the bar off. The 6.2L was then applied to the lower right side. Then I put my business name in chrome GM letters on the middle of the tailgate. I saved a bunch of emblems from GM jobs I have done and was able to spell out BEARD BROTHERS.
  13. 2 points
    Off-road carbon trim part numbers for a crew cab Front left 84295680 Front right 84295681 Rear left 84317065 Rear right 84317066 Console with 110v outlet 84272399 Console without 110v outlet 84092073 Double cab rear doors Rear left 22837216 Rear right 84317604 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 2 points
  15. 1 point
    So the answers I found online all resulted in cutting the active shutters to get this to work so I devised another way. I’m still not happy with the upper bar mounting which is two bars connected to the light but it is mounted and works great. The hardest part of finding a LED light bar that isn’t deep. The one I found on eBay is about the size of an Apple Watch when you look at it from the side. The bracket was just a piece of aluminum angle cut to fit (40”) and painted black. I used 2 of the three holes for the active shutters with a longer button type bolt, spacer, and lock washer. You will need to use spacer to clear the active shutters and to adjust the placement for the light bars. Cost wise I probably spent about $150 total.
  16. 1 point
    Cried when my registration bill came in at $681. Gotta love CA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    Wahhhhh [emoji2962][emoji2962] I did not know that. Imma try the heat gun one of these days. Thank you!!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. 1 point
    The custom was ordered Friday, I'll be sure to post pic's in the other thread when it arrives.
  19. 1 point
    Thanks, TXGREEK. Will look for something with a 0 offset. Did you go with 275x60R20s?
  20. 1 point
    Everyone’s Suspension moves one side during backing up. Recommend strapping back liner or I’ve heard heat gun will do it too Sent from above
  21. 1 point
    Not everyone is a do it yourself type of person. Some people always need help from others. Someone here is a prime candidate of getting stuck overnight on an escalator waiting rescue.
  22. 1 point
    California is amazing. By shear numbers there are a lot of car and truck enthusiast here. The Lib-tards that run the state have done an excellent job at killing everything. Almost all Motorsports, guns, small business. Anything normal men enjoy has a tax or restriction on it. And made it a heaven for: Homeless, criminals, illegals, cho-mos, & all types of dopers. Cal Gov gets a huge chunk of your income any and everyway they can and provide nothing in return (no cops or streets). The state is currently being run aground. The rules were not THAT bad until the prop 65 madness kicked in recently. Now you can't have hardly any engine mods without becoming a outlaw. They want everyone to take public transportation and ban gasoline automobiles. If we are lucky we can ride a green bike (literally lime green), or electric scooter. Have to move out of state to get headers. sign an offroad use waiver to tune. no E.O# can't use it. is as stupid as it sounds.
  23. 1 point
    Looks like most of them are murals. I have a slider window. I'm sticking with the "Like a Rock" and I had a graphic shop custom print me up a set . They should be here tomorrow. I think most of you guys will like them. Some may not.
  24. 1 point
    I’m experiencing the same issue here in Iowa was 1degree out side last night and got all the flashing errors. This isn’t acceptable for a 50k truck. GM/Chevy fix it or you’ll have a lemon law on your hands.
  25. 1 point
    Range Device or Tune? I chose Tune! Sent from above
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Makes sense. That wouldn’t instill confidence in me either.
  28. 1 point
    Truck still looks great! Where at this time? Still thinking about the level and smaller wheels?
  29. 1 point
    My point exactly to the OP about JUNKYARD parts.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    I would just bite the bullet and buy the new panel and do the work yourself. You're a mechanic should be a breeze. After all isn't the truck brand new? Why would you want a junkyard piece in a brand new truck. I know I wouldn't .
  32. 1 point
    I wanted to go with the biggest tires on 17" factory wheels. I bought it new and the dealer installed a 2 1/2" leveling kit. 285/70/17s ?
  33. 1 point
    Swapped my chrome trim for another members black trim (Bobaloo22)
  34. 1 point
    Hopefully this helps. The rear is the exact same but there is no screw behind the trim under the window switch. So you dont take that off. Also, i never lift off the panel. I pull it straight out towards me. That way you dont mess with the clips. You just push the panel in towards the door.
  35. 1 point
    Ok, last song and still my favorite! Sent from above
  36. 1 point
    I had to sacrifice a diode for its wires and solder them to the one I was using for the jump and it worked a lot better for me. Bifocals suck sometimes! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  37. 1 point
    most of us probably should have gotten a silverado and a vasectomy before the suburban became necessary ...
  38. 1 point
    Well, this all happened fast! in a good way. Yesterday I officially posted my 2010 Tundra for sale for $25,500. today I decided I'd stop by the dealer just for fun, I was looking at the Trail Boss and started to consider the High Country as well since I'd be lifting it anyway defeating the purpose of the Trail Boss (partially). I told the sales guy I wasn't interested in trading my truck in because they probably wouldn't give me what I wanted, I mean, it doesn't even have a front bumper! haha. They offered me $22k for the Tundra though and that really go the wheels in my brain going that I might just work out a deal. A couple hours later I was signing papers, went home to get the title and bring the truck in and I'm now a proud owner of a 2019 Silverado High Country! It had everything I wanted as if I were to do a factory build and a few extras as well. Basically it also has the HUD, 360 view cameras and the rear view camera mirror (which is actually pretty f'ing awesome!) The truck feels great and I'm really happy about this, although I truly will miss the Tundra! I'm the original owner so we've been through a lot. I'll be lifting, wheels, tires, etc soon though to get back to a good stance like the Tundra had. Definitely a bittersweet day today, Crappy pics because it was dark out but here is day 1 pics and the Tundra as I was driving away
  39. 1 point
    I am having the same issue. Seems to have gone away again, but I am assuming it is only because it has been slightly warmer. This is definitely an issue GM should be working on. It is different than simply the terrible parking sensors beeping when moisture is present, which is an entirely different complaint.
  40. 1 point
    Oh if you need more adjustment they sell offset bushings as well. Normal the lower you go the more negative camber happens in the suspension. And it a good thing. Go up you get positive. Very good suspension from aftermarket manufacturers can stop most of this. But back to you. I would go factory or a little negative knowing that on downward travel there would be more negative. Again negative helps in handling on hard turns but caster can cause scrub this is where in or out side of tires as it rolls to the tires edge on turn. Again toe out helps on turn in as the tires want to turn but at straight high speeds make the car dart and too sensitive to input. Toe in helps with straight line stability. Both cause a amount tire wear. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
    Wife said she could not find the truck since I removed the lift and chrome accessories. So I was forced to add some details. Opted for a 90s Chevy Sport Truck decal kit.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    nice to see some non-black wheels PERIOD!!!!! and truck looks great
  45. 1 point
    The new 10 speed does not have sharp shifts in all gears, it will skip gears and usually does a slow shift going from 1 to 3 and then to 5. if in normal driving mode. at least that's how it works in the ford, same transmission.
  46. 1 point
    A few recent pics of mine. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  47. 1 point
    That is one of the sharpest looking front ends I have ever seen in this generation of trucks!
  48. 1 point
    Sure I'll try, haven't posted a pic on this forum yet, but here goes. Go to Amazon or similar and order these: 1N4004 400V 1A Axial Lead Silicon Rectifier Diodes You only need one really but order 25 as it's just as cheap once you take into account shipping if you try to order just one. Plus if you bend or break the one diode, you have back ups. Then you'll look under your dash above your gas pedal. You'll see a bunch of small power blocks inserted into a larger one. You want to locate the BROWN one. At the top you see a release latch. Go ahead and push it in and pull the small BROWN electrical block out of the larger one. Twist it around so it's oriented with the release latch up. Using the diagram in the picture I've attached, locate pin/cable slot #10. It's obviously 2 slots over from #8 that's marked on the diagram. Insert one end of the electrical diode down into that #10 slot. If needed use a needle nose pliers. The diode pins are pretty bendable so just make sure you get some of it down into the #10 slot. Then go down to the bottom (last row away from the release latch and go to slot #22 (clearly one over from the #21 that's marked in the diagram). Push the other end of the diode down into the #22 slot. Once you have them both in the #10 slot and the #22 slot, you've made a jumper "bridge" between the two. Gently twist the BROWN electrical cube back so it's oriented and push it back into it's motherboard. It will click back in. Insert key in your ignition and test it out. You're FOG LIGHTS should automatically be ON if your low beam headlights are ON. When your low beam headlights are OFF, the fog lights will also be OFF. You can now just leave the dash mounted headlight selector in AUTO and your low beams and your fog lights will both automatically come on each and every time your headlights come on, and go off when the headlights go off. All done.
  49. 1 point
    The gas pedal is mounted to a molded plastic plate that attaches to the firewall. The plate isn't supported directly behind the pedal and it flexes slightly when the pedal is first pressed. Adding something between the plate and firewall stops the flex and makes the throttle more responsive. I don't believe the trucks with adjustable pedals have the issue though.
  50. 1 point
    Could you elaborate on this? By throttle assembly you mean Gas pedal?
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