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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/28/2019 in all areas

  1. Its the springs, not the shocks. Our truck springs are capable of carrying close to 2,000 lbs more than they normally carry empty. Of course they will perform very differently when unloaded. Adding weight should soften the bounce and make it more stable. The springs support the weight. All the shock does is control the speed at which they can compress and rebound. People seem to ignore the job of the springs and think shocks cause the problem or new shocks will fix everything. Its hard to design springs that will handle the same way with double the weight on them as they do with no load at all. I think the simple solution is to drive slower on rough roads. Since none of us were there with wiggums we don't know how bad this road actually is. I've experienced a similar phenomenon a couple times, and it requires a pretty big bump. Nothing I would worry about on a well maintained road.
    5 points
  2. No, they deserve the blame they receive. There's nothing categorically wrong with my truck until I go over an angled bridge or road seam at 75mph. Bad shocks are essentially the only culprit here. And my hypothesis gains credibility whenever I drive over an angled concrete driveway approach, too, as the truck floats side-to-side like a boat enduring a big, rolling wake.
    2 points
  3. This sort of sounds like Kamala Harris at last nights Democratic Presidential Debate
    2 points
  4. I do, it's called a Yukon XL! hehehe
    2 points
  5. Trucks are designed for payload. They ride stiffer when empty. Today's half ton's payload is rated the same as yesterday's 3/4t's. Now with weight reduction the biggest concern for automakers, they are getting stiffer in the rear and also lighter in weight. The T1 is nearly 500lbs lighter than a K2 truck, I would expect a decent portion of weight savings come from the bed area, even though it was hinged parts using aluminum. Now GMC has taken even more weight off the rear with the Carbon Pro bed. Yes sure, lighter bed means more payload, but it also means poorer weight distribution, and evidently axle rap. Where your 2005 Chevy was a 60-40 front bias weight split, these are probably closer to 65-35, and I would expect the carbon pro to almost approach 70-30. To me, that is probably not the right direction to go for handling, but great for increased payload. They should be pulling weight from the front of the truck to improve payload while maintaining unladen handling.
    2 points
  6. You guys do realize you both right....RIGHT? Factory rear shocks, any of them, do not have enough rebound dampening and to much compression. The spring compresses grudgingly the slaps the pavement as the spring rebounds with little resistance. The shock valving needs another thousand pounds to act 'normal'. But anything weight wise will help. Even a few bags of sand near the tail gate. Have a conversation with Ben at Filthy Motorsports if you need the minutiae. Andy does make on solid point is the word EXPECTATIONS. You can't agree if you expectations differ, eh? There ya go.....simple but not cheap. Like me!
    2 points
  7. Sorry for the delay, had the camera sitting in the box, just got it installed at dealer while it is in there for warranty work, will let ya know how it is when I pick it up later!
    2 points
  8. Really? You want to sue GM because you can't keep mice out of your truck? You've won the internet for today.
    2 points
  9. I had tried all the other trucks (minus the Titan..) Not brand loyal... I always wanted to experience GM's big 6.2L engine. Once i saw how the new ones looked like, i was set on the current body style. I couldn't get past the interior of the new ones.
    2 points
  10. I had the lifters, cam, etc replaced with a kit from TSP when I had a lifter fail in my '10. Kit from TSP was ~$650 and I had a local shop do the work since I was in the middle of a shutdown at work and wouldn't have the time to do it myself. They charged ~$2000. I also ordered a Diablo Intune I2030 programmer. All told, I was out about $3000. I'm sure the pricing is different for a newer truck but that should give you a ballpark number.
    2 points
  11. No brainer. I've been drinking the Chevy Kool aid since I was a kid. I'm Bowtie to the bone. I've been running Chevy trucks for 40 years. Over 2.6 million miles. I put 410,000 miles on a 86 Scottsdale 305 4x4 1/2 ton back in the late 80s early 90's for one. I bought it a year old and it had 80,000 miles on it. I drove the shit out of that truck almost 100,000 miles a year. For the most part I've owned trouble free trucks. No major problems ever. In 2018 I bought 2 new Silverados, my 15th and 16th Chevy trucks. The Chevy's may not be the fastest or tow the most but they get the job done day in and day out. I use my trucks for work and they haven't called in sick since I can remember. Its also fun to have the best looking truck on the jobsite. It didn't hurt to get a killer deal on both trucks too.
    2 points
  12. Yes and no. It scratches like any other color that's about all they have in common. Everything shows on black . Hardly anything shows on white or silver. I hand wash with two buckets. And lots of microfiber wash mitts. I use Meguires Hyper Wash . Blow dry with leaf blower then hit it with some detail spray wipe down with lots of clean microfiber towels . I may use ten mitts and twenty towels. Nothing worse than a dirty mitt or towel on black paint. That's where most of your swirls come from. I ceramic coated mine and it makes a huge difference. Not a swirl or mark to be found after 4 months I've said this before, Black is not a color it's an occupation. It takes a lot of time to keep your black truck looking like mine. Lots of time.
    1 point
  13. Buddy of mine had 1 of those 454 SS trucks. Think it had a 4:10 rear gear in it. Used smoke and light up the tires at every intersection. Nice and simple truck...
    1 point
  14. That's why I'm thinking either a 2018 K2 with the 5.3 and 6 speed or a 2020 with the 5.3 and 10 speed.
    1 point
  15. The Tundra is several thousand more expensive and doesn't have any kind of locking differential, good or otherwise.
    1 point
  16. problem is with the 4x4 rear lockers they use are cheap shit Gov-Loc rear diffs. They are very dangerous when they engage. had it on my 1990 suburban and wow, look out when it hooks up. the rear end will come around so fast and outta control its stupid. get real locker, or make it a pegg legger, better yet buy a Toyota TUndra TRD
    1 point
  17. 2014 Silverado 1500 Z71 20x9 Mayhem wheels 0 offset with Cooper AT3 4S tires (275/60R20) 3in front and 2in rear level Theres some awesome trucks on here y’all, good taste ?
    1 point
  18. Finally got my drop shackles installed and blocks removed last week, now I’ve got the disease though...I want to go lower [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  19. It was over two bumps, twice. (the rear-end feeling out of control, not the other lackluster performances) This is not an every day occurrence. It's comical to me how many on this forum have a hard time believing that GM would put a junk shock absorber on one of their vehicles. And if you think I'm going to waste my time taking it to the dealer just to have them tell me "that's just how these shocks perform", you fail to comprehend my value of time.
    1 point
  20. Yea. That what I was thinking. I made a comment on there website saying "aren't the trail boss and at4 suspension the same." And they responded with "not exactly". I don't think they have a clue.
    1 point
  21. If your new truck has unsafe driving characteristics at Interstate speeds, then get it checked out under warranty. I drive this speed + on a regular basis and would have my truck back at the dealer immediately if I had anything less than a smooth cruise! "Crap Ranchos" is a fun discussion topic on this forum but I suspect they receive the blame for far more irregularities than they deserve.
    1 point
  22. This thread explains the reason why. I think I’d be asking GM Canada for your money back on how ever much the rear defrost cost new since they just rendered it useless...
    1 point
  23. I grew up racing motocross. This is why I refer to "Pogo Stick" often in the threads about shocks. Dialing in the suspension on a motocross bike or even a Nascar is key to having the edge over your competition. Not enough compression leads to bottoming out. Too much rebound leads to flying over the handlebars or being bucked off the wild bull in whoop sections. The Twin Tube Rancho has a decent amount of compression but the rebound is way off allowing the leaf springs of the truck to react quicker than the shock itself. To prove my point just remove your rear shocks and take a short drive. Without the absorber all you have is an uncontrolled spring. Those who have the Rancho 9000 adjustables can mimic this by placing them on the highest setting. I had a set of these on my 94 Silverado after the factory Bilstein 4600s finally gave out. The lowest setting translates into a very soft and slow rebound and makes the truck feel like a 1978 Lincoln. Tons of body roll but not good for towing/hauling. The highest setting of the 9000 provides a very quick rebound. This seems to be how the factory twin tube Rancho is valved. Rancho does make a monotube RS7000 that should be far better than the factory twin tube and that i suspect is on par with the 4600 and 5100 and other good monotubes out there. Anyone bored yet?
    1 point
  24. Likely but with certainty I could not say. I've never cut open a pair nor have I had them on a shock dyno but I know someone who has. Ben, as I mentioned earlier. If you want a real answer or solution...he's your guy. He actually races in places I wouldn't/couldn't walk. Viking is another great resource. They will fit your truck with sensors and actually measure and adjust the system to your conditions and pace. Bumps come is all sizes and types that are defined by their amplitude and velocity. Height and rate of rise. Velocity is the combination of rate of rise and speed of address or how fast you are driving when you hit a square edged displacement of a high the spring has enough travel to absorb. Ben will tell you that the spring should be stiff enough to hold the shock in the center of it's stroke with the truck at rest and loaded as required. The dampening adjusted to use 90% of the stroke when driving at 90% of your maximum intended speed. Bump stops take over after that...ouch! We took 150# of rate out of my front coils and a 100 psi of N2 to get her close. I would have to loose another 100 pounds of rate and add a hair of preload to be perfectly centered. That condition exist in the rear around maximum payload meaning as she sits empty the rear shock is closer to the top (badly not centered) of it's travel than the bottom thus is hasn't much in the way of rebound travel like a recessed manhole cover. The K2 sit roughly 4 inches above center stroke empty. In compression it has tons of travel but empty a large excess of compression dampening. If this were not so then loaded it would bottom on every ripple in the road. Be like a solid axle. There is no "one size fits all" setup and a dirt guy is the first to tell you that. A vehicle platform is a compromise and you have to decide how much of it your willing to live with. You can have a Caddy ride but not without expense and effort. You can have a Rock Crawler or a Baja buggy but not without expense and effort. You can have a Toy Hauler and be much closer but..... They only guys that get by with nothing are those that like what they have. Does that sound to simple? There is a spring and a shock for every expectation. It just wont be free nor even cheap. You can "I want' a" till you blue and all you will get is a sore throat. Can't help the unwilling to be helped and that is what a chronic complainer is....unwilling.
    1 point
  25. Oh no, sold the last one long ago, she's now a dedicated drag car somewhere in Georgia.
    1 point
  26. Beta test would mean that when we find the problems they would fix them, let's face it this ac problem goes all the way back to the 2014 model years and the 8 speed trans shudder to the 2016 model year. Safe to say they will never fix these issues and everyone here will more then likely eventually have to deal with it. My best advice i can give is if you plan to keep this truck past 3 years and own it, you would be a fool to not buy an extended warranty with what these things cost to fix today.
    1 point
  27. We can rebuilt it, we have the technology.
    1 point
  28. Yeah, it’s hard to understand how this has been going on for such a long time.
    1 point
  29. Here's to another 175k
    1 point
  30. Wow, sorry to hear that Bill. That's crazy.. Can't you leave truck and get a loaner? Tell them you need A/C. A good service dept. Would do that.
    1 point
  31. Well sure Marty. I do not want my points to come across as arguments but rather experience. How can you argue with experience?
    1 point
  32. I agree that you will find your solution at a spring and axle shop. Decades ago I found shocks a cheap, easy option to deal with my suspension complaints and could always muster up "facts" to validate the expense. One visit to your local spring shop will show you how a specialist can adjust, add or replace your springs to provide a ride quality that is right for your needs.
    1 point
  33. actually i found it. Took all the electronics out and filled the housing with water. Tested all the seals and there was one spot behind one of the trim clips that was leaking at a decent rate. Re sealed it tested it and its good to go (for now). we shall see.
    1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. Installed some 1.75” Long Tubes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  36. I have a 2017 Crew cab 4x4 with the 5.3. On a flat straight stretch of road without any idiots around, I was able to hit an average of 33.2mpg at 75 mph. This was with ideal driving and weather conditions that may never happen again.
    1 point
  37. Hard to get them out completely so your only real option is to mask them. On my 2014 Sierra I had very good luck using some of my Harley Davidson leather black on boot marks on the lower door panel. Work it into the scratches and buff off. I have also had very good luck with black liquid shoe polish. And also brown liquid shoe polish on my Tahoe. The idea is that you are kind of re-dying the scratch. Also I have used Maguiers Leather cleaner and shine and it masks them as well. My 2 cents.
    1 point
  38. No because nonintake increase the power of the truck without a tune and even that is extremely marginal. People will tell you they fell the power but thata all in their head. It makes more noise and people want to believe so they do. Even the GM performance intake has a relearn or flash for it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  39. Well gm says that you need new bolts as they are one time use. I recommend buying aftermarket harden u bolts and nuts. Then you can reuse and torque down more. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  40. The SS 5w-20 is 5.8 and the 10w-30 is 4.1 NOACK. So the 10w-30 is the lowest in the SS line.
    1 point
  41. Another picture from today. Im betting they will fit on the AT4, im putting the 1.5” motofab level this weekend.
    1 point
  42. It was the best looking truck on the market at the time. (Still is) and I was raised a Chevy man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  43. Its in my DNA, must have been some kind of GM reincarnation, when I was young my parents would say every time I seen a GM vehicle I'd call it out, Jimmy, Chevy, vettey, kid names for stuff. They didnt own GM's when I was young. Powertrain, nobody beats GM V8's, its a total sum of , reliable engines, repair-ability, cost of maintenance, power/torque, decent fuel economy given the mass. Engines are used for swaps, boats, buggy's, almost everything that needed a engine, got a GM SB/LS/LT. its the kind of vehicle you can show your kids how to repair as they grow up, and they are worth repairing.
    1 point
  44. My Dad worked for GM nearly 31 years. GM helped cover our heads with a roof, placed food on our table and lighted our rooms. Call it loyalty. Hard to beat GMS pricing also
    1 point
  45. That is what they say 5.3 is a turd! I would take the L83 any day over a 2.7eb or 3.5eb for use and abuse. They just simply do not hold together and offer cheaper ownership costs 50k,100k,150k-200k they don't.
    1 point
  46. Price and looks. For years I wanted the new F150 body style or a tundra. But after saving up 10k and getting some prices, wasnt happy with $ amounts on either. Then I noticed my cajun red crew cab Z71 on the lot at the chevy dealer while just driving through the lot with the family, love at first sight :-) And it met all my requirements. (V8, 4 door, full console, heated cloth seats, 4WD, remote start. That was all I wanted) And it was $36,640, which was way cheaper than any other truck that met my requirements above. I figured my old 2002 Silverado has been a solid truck for all these years, maybe a new one will be too.
    1 point
  47. Hardwired my dash camera and radar detector last night. No more pesky wires dangling in my field of view and no more having to remember to plug in and unplug the darn camera!
    1 point
  48. Assembly lube. Mine was exactly the same
    1 point
  49. Both my old and current All Terrain rubbed/rub lightly on sway bar at full turn. The black truck was leveled using Bilstein 5100's set at max lift while the WDT has a 2.5" leveling kit and the 5100's set at 0 lift. Black truck had aluminum control arms WDT has steel control arms. Tires on black truck were 295/55/20 Toyo AT2s, current tires are Toyo Open Country RTs size 33x12.5x20.
    1 point
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