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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
    YouTube. Chris Fix...I use his method and it works like a champ: 100,000 miles in three years.
  3. 3 points
    To wrap up this story, I bought a 2016 Silverado 1500 LTZ midnight edition. My old truck was an LT and pretty loaded, but the LTZ has some upgrades I'm pretty happy with like the memory seats/mirrors and A/C seats, navigation is nice but almost useless with android auto. I've had the new truck for a few days and I'm really happy with it. I tinted the windows and added my old tonneau cover. I'm going to either level it or lift it, still undecided, after a trip to Indianapolis this weekend I'm not sure if I could fit in a parking garage with a 3.5" lift.
  4. 2 points
    Thanks for all the replies guys. Lot more than I anticipated... That said, I made the trip out to one of the dealerships and drove 3 trucks today. The 6.2L with Max Trailering Package (MTP from here on out) and 3.42 gearing. For ride comparison I did a 5.3L with X31 (no 6.2L's with that available) and then for the hell of it and curiosity, an AT4 with the off road performance package, which includes the 6.2L and the cat back exhaust and air intake. Did about a 30 minute test on each rig through the same loop. Side roads, business areas with lots of bumps, speed bumps, pot holes, storm drains, etc and then on the freeway and then off to an uphill and downhill twisty road on the way back to the dealership with some less than desirable roads. First up was the 6.2L with Max Trailer Package and the 3.42 gearing. First thing i noticed was the gearing. Noticeable acceleration difference between it and the x31 with 3.23's that I drove yesterday, especially on the freeway and getting around slower vehicles. The truck acted more like a sports car in all areas. Through the bumpy areas of the business complex, I was actually surprised at how well it did. I was expecting a much stiffer ride. On the freeway between all 3 trucks I noticed the same road feel, as in, I felt alot more of the road and it's anomalies than I'd hoped. Something I do not feel in my current 2018, which is sort of weird. The acceleration of the MTP was definitely noticeable between it and the X31 in all areas of the test drive. I know I read how some posters here were saying there wasn't that much of a difference, but if you drive the trucks back to back, I can attest it's quite apparent. On the way back to the dealership down the twisty road there is one part where you hit a bump or split in the road as you're doing about 40ish mph. That's where I saw the big difference in this truck compared to the other ones in that the back end hopped around over this bump. The X31 seems to have a more forgiving suspension when dealing with speed bumps or hitting things with speed. The same bump that the MTP bounced around on, the X31 wobbled over but didn't hop. If I could put the front end suspension of the MTP on the X31 with 3.42 gearing, I'd have something that I really liked. I think what GM calls a "Tuned" suspension on the front of the MTP trucks is better than the X31 in my opinion for a daily driver, but the stiffer rear end in the MTP is something that bothers me a bit. I'm not sure I want to carry a few hundred pounds of sand bags in the bed of the truck all the time to compensate. I did notice that the MTP truck's air pressure was set to 39 all the way around when we jumped in it, so lowering that to 34ish might ease it a bit The AT4 is an impressive truck. I was expecting a less than desirable ride compared to the X31 and the MTP, but that 2 inch lift combined with the 18 inch tires was actually really well and in my opinion, better than both of the other trucks. I didn't care for the sound of the Mud Terrains, but it is what it is I guess. If money were no object, I'd get that truck, hands down, especially with the performance package. The sound and feel of that 6.2L with those add ons was very cool and I found myself grinning more than I was with the other two trucks. One other thing of note is that in all 3 trucks, I never noticed the DFM, which was great. My 2018, I absolutely hated that and bought the Range AFM disabler to cure it. The turning radius of these 2019's is much tighter too. At least I now know the ride difference between the MTP and the X31 now in addition to the AT4. I have to now decide which direction to go which seems to be a conundrum in of itself. Not that many trucks in either configuration in my area or for the 100 miles around, so pickings are slim.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Thanks, it's good to hear I've heard the last from you.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    For anybody following this topic, I can attest to the inner tube rubber solution. Mine was making all kinds of noises and banging for a while now, and today did the rubber in between the springs and is absolutely amazing how quite it is now compared to before. Only took about an hour and was pretty easy, just pry the leafs apart slide in the piece of rubber and done. This should be a permeant too vs the greasing fix . Yes the dealer could have likely fixed or replaced under warranty but for something this easy and cheap I see no reason not to DIY and save the time and hassle of going to the dealer possibly multiple times. I see no reason it will ever reoccur either.
  9. 1 point
    Much to my surprise my compressor seized up with only 56K miles on a 2014 Silverado LT standard cab w/4x4. Went straight to web and I was also surprised to see that this is not an uncommon occurrence on these trucks around this age. Anyway, after a few options considered I decided to repair this myself, mainly because I didn't want to pay the high price. I'm no stranger to wrenching and I was up for the challenge. Parts::: 4Seasons Compressor (new) 198381 4Seasons Condenser 40794 4Seasons Expansion Valve 39460 4Seasons O-Ring Kit 26824 PAG-46 oil A/C Flush Kit w/ flushing liquid You will need to get a new A/C belt, might as well get all three belts to replace. The inner two belts are stretch belts so you will need a zip tie to get them on, the A/C belt goes from the rear of the harmonic balancer, not the front, watch a youtube... I flushed the evaporator and all hoses with the flush kit, there was lots of oil in the evaporator, took a while before the exit looked clear. I replaced all O-rings.. I had an issue with new transmission oil line connectors that came on the new condenser. I think the inner diameter of the new connector was bigger than the original because transmission oil leaked from the connector around the line going in (the O-rings looked good). I had to re-use the original connectors to get the leaking to stop. Make sure to put new O-rings into the original connectors before installing, they came with the O-ring kit. The new compressor was pre-loaded with 3 oz. of PAG-46 oil so I added 3 oz. to the condenser to get the total spec capacity of oil called for in the system. Pulled vacuum for an hour and then charged the system with two cans of R-134a (24 oz total). Checked out good with the pressure gauges. Cold air again!
  10. 1 point
    @BringTheRain403 Dragy performance meter. It is an external module that links up with your phone. It’s pretty neat and very accurate in independent testing. I can say it sure is consistent at least. To clear everything up because I don’t/ didn’t want to come off as an ass here...This whole thing started with you wrongly implying that the 6.2 with NHT doesn’t have the two speed transfer case or dual exhaust. I didn’t even get involved before then, and never go around the forum and brag about my 3.42s because it’s a dumb ass thing to do anyway. I think I’ve maybe posted 6 photos of my truck since I bought it in January and rarely talk about it at all. Not really the bragging kind... 99.99% of my posts are done to help people, or so I try to. My effort was not to talk him into NHT, but to be clear, he specifically asked about ride. Well shit, I can link to a thread where quite a few people have come out in preference of the NHT over the Z71/X31. I can also link to many threads where people complain about the Z71s poor ride, crappy Rancho shocks and getting bounced off the road. Also, I have no idea where you get the impression I said they are God’s gears when all I did was bring facts to the table. I understand that you are trapped in a flawed argument that taller gears do not negatively affect acceleration and towing abilities at all, but that’s not the truth. And to be clear and factual again/ still...with the SLT 6.2 he’s looking at and specifically asked about, you give up absolutely nothing to get the 3.42s except for badges and hill decent control. So explain to me in a sane world why one wouldn’t want added trailering, payload, subjectively better ride and better performance at the trade off of only losing hill decent control? Even from an off road perspective, if the guy is going to stick 37s on it some day, are you suggesting he’s better off with 3.23s? If not, then stop arguing with me over basic facts. You’ve completely missed the point.
  11. 1 point
    I can relate. I used K&N on almost every truck I owned. Drop in or the the whole thing, oiled filter. Then I realized I was wasting money. Who lives at full throttle? Only took me till I was 58. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 1 point
    Lots of keyboard engineers on tonight. I guess I better go let GM know that they are building two different rear axle ratios for no reason whatsoever. They were frugal enough to calculate the cost savings of removing the sunglasses holder but I guess this potential cost savings escaped them? Lots of people speculating and telling everyone what would or wouldn’t be felt, still the only person here to post any times...
  13. 1 point
    I hit the engine bay with a pressure washer at least once a year on my Sierra and have never experienced a problem. I try not to get to close to anything electrical.
  14. 1 point
    Thanks does he sell a complete setup? I sent him an email earlier before posting this. I hope he gets back to me
  15. 1 point
    Two hints about re-oiling a wet filter: 1. Only apply oil to the face of the filter that will be away from the MAF, 2. Before installing the filter, pack it in some paper from your shredder for a couple of hours to wick away any excess oil. Then you will be GTG.
  16. 1 point
    Here’s the everything you need to know mirror thread. As stated Red16 you should get your harness from Phil aka the Harness DR.
  17. 1 point
    Those are DL3s. You'll need new door harnesses and a switch to make them work as they should Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  18. 1 point
    Thanks, it's good to hear I've heard the last from you.
  19. 1 point
    I have always used K&N filters in my cars over the years. Never had a problem. I usually clean them around 40k miles and re-oil. No issues with with sensors in all my years. The key is not to put too much oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. 1 point
    You'll need a slim putty knife or butter knife, and gently go around the mirror cap prying it free from the body of the mirror. I started on the outside end. Just don't pry really hard. If one area feels to be more grabby than another, start at that point. YouTube has a couple of videos that show it pretty well. Not hard at all to change mirror caps. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727A using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    Im adding this post mainly for info because I couldn’t do a anything on the OEM tail harnesses. I got a set of tails off of a guy that was swapping his OEM tails for a set of Recon LED tails. That being said I didn’t get the OEM harnesses. So I got the tails, harnesses and the Resistor harness from pgamboa the pics show the part numbers for the OEM LED Tail Harnesses
  22. 1 point
    I guess wrapping could be an option, it’s just the front. Maybe I’ll wait until the spring and see if more start to pop up. BringTheRain, I followed him on Instagram and someone asked about him making a grill insert and he said he won’t likely have one. He does have the GMC and AT4 badges I want for the rest of the truck though.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Vinly Inserts avalable from vendors on EBay and Amazon. The badges are GM parts as an option on the '20s. On GM accessories on website. My RST was Gloss Black Emblem Package 84300954 OEM GM NEW https://www.ebay.com/itm/Silverado-Duramax-RST-GM-6-Piece-Gloss-Black-Emblem-Package-84300954-OEM-GM-NEW/183491035475?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 put the extras to good use
  25. 1 point
    The throttle control does nothing but make it open sooner. No power gain. 50 HP is gonna be tough. You *might* get there with a cam, full exhaust and tune. Lower axle gearing will probably put more power to the wheels, especially if you lift it.
  26. 1 point
    2019 Trail Boss Custom, with L82 EcoTec3 5.3L V8 AFM, 6 Speed Auto.
  27. 1 point
    I’ll double check but I believe 805.1 is the newest update as of now. They could have cancelled 805.1 and sent out 809 it happens at times. They will push an update find out an issue and pull it fix it and send it back out with new version number. so since some never saw the 805.1 update this could be why. There were several that were notified of an update and then many of us never got that. I never did in Dallas I wound up downloading the update through my mdi 2. I’ll look into it and see if I can find anything solid
  28. 1 point
    I believe the standard bed being referred to is the 61/2 ft. bed. (3 in. longer on the new trucks). I know we used to think of the 8' bed as the regular bed and the 6!/2 ft. bed as the short bed! I'm old to this whole thing. I don't really want to be, but the option to getting old is far less desirable. I think you are trying very hard to justify a 2500/3500 series gas truck. I personally think you should follow your gut and buy one. You will feel like your driving a truck and have the confidence you are looking for when hauling your loads. I love the feel of a 3/4 ton truck and the new ones look absolutely fabulous. The obvious downside is fuel economy but this doesn't appear to be a big issue in your situation. Submit pictures when you have your new truck!
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Thanks man, they were the stock red Z71 badges that came with the truck but I painted them gray to match the wheels. What a pain THAT was, had the whole side of the truck covered in plastic drop cloth except for the badges, and covered the badges with painters tape and then carefully trimmed out the inside area with a hobby knife so the chrome trim around the badge didn't get paint on it.
  31. 1 point
    Go to the Chevy or GMC app and it is under WiFi.
  32. 1 point
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  33. 1 point
    PART NO. 84629787 /2-inch Suspension Lift – 4WD , ebay has the kit for $1000
  34. 1 point
    Gears are never a waste. The idea is to match the gearing and tire size correctly. Not doing gears even with you not towing is still leaving a lot on the table for performance and miles per gallon. If you kept the truck for a long time and put on a decent amount of miles it would be worthwhile to do the swap. A tune is a must too. Not only for your speedo but for everything else. The transmission calibration would greatly appreciate knowing what size tires are on it.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Just ordered these today. And the matching 3rd brake light. We’ll see how they are.
  37. 1 point
    Magnuson Moss Act. It's on GM to prove the device caused damage. A warranty denied claim is certainly the way they will go. You file, then it's on them, not you. You have no burden of proof.
  38. 1 point
    IMO No tail gating will help reduce stone chips.
  39. 1 point
    Bought this gem in March ... it's my second 'rado. (first is a 98 Z71 ext cab) looking for the right wheels... will upgrade to leather seats. MAY level it out. need to upgrade the stereo... (sounds too mono... possibly add maps)
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    It’s not a GM but... i did put Corvette cross flags on the front fenders in front of the front wheel wells on my 94 Caprice Classic, no pics though.
  42. 1 point
    I'm on here looking at the answers... I have 152,000 on my original plugs... Going to change them for the first time.. No misses, no misfire codes EVER. I think I'll stay with OEM.
  43. 1 point
    When I upgraded my 442 to dual piston front calipers and larger rotors 5 years ago, I put on hawk pads. That car now stops better than my old E46! I can’t speak anything about longevity because I’ve only put 5-7k miles on it in that time, but the performance is awesome. Not bad on dust either.
  44. 1 point
    I recognize that the custom model is a lower model, I wasn't interested in the majority of the upgrades that came with the LT. My thought is that storage in a console shouldn't be an "upgrade" it should be standard. For close to 40k out the door with the options I did select I find it unacceptable.
  45. 1 point
    Yeah, it can be done, just takes $$ and if you're willing to part with said $$.. took me almost a year to decide to pull the trigger on the cluster upgrade. Then I waited patiently for the part to come in (back ordered for 4 months) plenty of time to back out again.. haha... But WAMS does a great job, and their price dropped by the time I got to doing it. The bed lighting mod cost under $50 to do and just time to get it done. Good luck! Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    Added 2.25" Southern Truck Leveling Kit, HD LUXX 20x9" wheels, AMP Terrain Attack tires @ 285/55 -12 offset Loving the look and ride so far...
  47. 1 point
    Put on a Putco Blade as well as two eagle eye pods in the step wells:
  48. 1 point
    Could be as simple as a bad shift solenoid ... or, needing a whole valve body, or TCM. Impossible to say over the net. At the very least you'll need a bi-directional scan tool to command shift solenoids on and off, and look at the results of each command, and understand what they mean. Your best bet if you're not mechanically inclined, or own a $1,800+ scan tool, is to find a local shop (DO NOT go to the dealer for this!!!) capable of handling this diagnosis and repair, preferably a shop that specializes in transmission work. More fallout from GM's parts cheapout strategy for the 21st Century ...
  49. 1 point
    I have them on my RST. I think they're the best 20" wheel Chevy has put out since 2007/8's all-aluminum 20".
  50. 1 point
    I’m assuming it’s factory door locks & key fob? Do you only have one fob? If you have both of them try the other one. If not leave the one at home and drive the truck around for the day and see if it trys to unlock it’s self if you haven’t already. I’d pull the fob apart and see if by chance if the button is sticking before getting a new/different one programmed to your truck, this thread shows how to take it apart.
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