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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    So had to do the dad thing and go move some things for my son who is a sophomore in college. Drive was 90% at 67 to 72 mph. Last 15 miles or so was a 55 mph zone (when pic was taken) entering Raleigh. I always take it easy there as lots of blue potential blue lights are always near. Tough to beat these GM V8's on mpg in the real world; she's not even broken in with less than 400 miles.
  2. 4 points
    I’m not anti union everything had- has its place. I remember an amusing but true story. In the seventies we were working a project next to a union one. I was site super parts runner. 8:00 in the morning I saw an operator standing next to his D-3 dozer on a pad. I walked over and ask if I could help. He says he thinks he needs fuel. I saw their fuel truck and ask if he needed a lift to it. He says he can’t he’s an operator he’s not allowed. I drive by later there’s the truck they’re both standing. I say what’s wrong. They need a laborer to handle a fire extinguisher. A little later there’s now three. Ok what’s wrong now. Well there’s 3 people we can’t do anything without a supervisor, union rules. I go back by at 10. It’s just him drinking coffee and a bunch of guys with shovels. Evidently they expected him to be done so they could set forms, but it coffee break. Union rules. Now it’s eleven he’s still standing, what’s wrong now? I don’t have an check list. For what!? It may be low on oil! The dip stick is right there. His answer, I’m not an oiler, I’m not allowed, I’m an operator. This is a true story. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 2 points
    I was more referring to headlights that adjust to the rear squat of the truck when loaded. But you're right, the blinding headlights of a loaded truck are even worse on hills. so long j-ten-ner
  4. 2 points
    Bad enough you don’t want to buy something made on a Monday or Friday but there’s going to be a whole lot of cursing and beer drinking going on this week, wonder how many lemons are going to made after [emoji848]
  5. 2 points
    To be clear, the Isuzu was forced into retirement...not me
  6. 2 points
    I understand the extend warranty due to all of the items that were disconnected and reconnected, a lot more room for later issues.
  7. 2 points
    Here is a run I did on this set up over the weekend:
  8. 2 points
    Progress update.! Finally had the time to do the pre-install work measuring and fitting HUD to our gen 5 dashboard frame and dashboard itself. ***Note*** After doing measurements i realize what I wanted to do wasn’t going to work then I went and go ahead a cut the dashboard which I didn’t want to do in the beginning and as I was cutting I found the solution in the mistake I made, making everything come together like I wanted. Cheers!!! I know you all want is pictures so here the are.. I know this dashboard was cut But it won’t be once is finish since that’s not my dashboard, it’s the experimental one. But it’s sort of the finish product without the cuts. Here’s the speaker cowl after I fitted and install the HUD trim. No glue used, HUD trim has pressure tabs that need to be cut in order remove and install. Here’s the speakers tray, top one is the oem and the bottom one after fitting hud. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 1 point
    Sounds good. I'm going to review over all this tomorrow. Glad Geico has this. Geico has been great for us. Use them for home and auto. Thanks again
  10. 1 point
    At my dealer many like that come in. Supercharged lifted trucks. But there are better options. Like own tune device or there is a gm software device that you can by on amazon and then download the gm file. Upload it yourself in the garage. I take my device and laptop with me but my dealer knows well what I have and ask what I want then I still get service and warranty. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point
    I hear there’s a good truck made in Texas........ I’m kidding, really I am.[emoji33] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 1 point
    The '19 snowflake is different than the '14-'18. The '18 won't work on the '19. Different part numbers and offset.
  13. 1 point
    I had to upload it to youtube to share it lol. I'll get a revving video and driving away video when campus safety at my college is eating donuts lol.
  14. 1 point
    I’ve noticed since 2011 that when you’re going uphill people think you have your highs on. I’ve adjusted my headlights down on some of my vehicles to eliminate the flashing as much as possible. This is on cars too. When people come towards me coming up hill if there running (fog) lights are on usually that means they’re on low beams. It sucks having to drive at night with one hand on the high beam switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    I used the yellow/black and yellow/gray wires for my install. I put the yellow/black wire on the negative post, not 100% positive that’s correct but i had no issues and it sounds good.
  16. 1 point
    More than likely, you're riding around on safe rims - but that really would depend on the repair and the location that was repaired & the extent of the original damage. My main point isn't really aimed at your particular case - but in general wheel repair of any kind without regard for severity or what's being done to repair it. So I follow that link you posted & read the top...it states they inspect, not test, prior to repair. Why does it matter? A test implies to me they put it on a machine and performed some sort of fatigue test (not called fatigue inspection) or important validation. Inspect could be something as simple as a visual inspection. So I am happy to see they are at least looking at the wheel that's intended to be repaired but certainly not doing any tests of real value (proving the repair doesn't fail). This inspection part really doesn't matter much - splitting hairs again, but just showing you that the claim is pretty much what a customer would hope is just common sense on their part. So move on down that page & watch their video. Starts out by stating more than 80% of repairs involve "road rash to the flange, scratching of the spoke or clearcoat degradation" or in other words things that are cosmetic defects and are a far cry from being structural defects - two different things & very important to note. Then they go on to demonstrate how well they can cosmetically repair a wheel by setting up an experiment deemed "more severe than AWRS would attempt to repair" and go on to cut a 2mm deep groove through the design face side. So they're telling ME they wouldn't touch any wheel with 2mm or MORE of any damage. OK so why do they have before/after pics showing deformations that to me are obviously exceeding more than 2mm? Hmmmm - so then why are these being repaired then (Click Photos at the top then click on Wheel Straightening to the left of the images): For now, ignore the arrows in the center of the wheel & focus on the one in left image, the upper left center portion - that's the deformed area they repaired that according to their video is less than 2mm (because 2mm exceeded their limits of repair, remember). Ummmm, no - that's at least a half an inch (12.7mm) and I'm being VERY generous by giving them that - it's more like 3/4 to an inch. Ok - so they fixed it and the result is on the right image. But wait....why are the spokes in the left image going in one direction and the those in the right image going in the OPPOSITE direction (arrows in center can now be referenced)??? Uh oh, these may not be the same wheel - they're directional & they're not even showing the same wheel. Shady? I don't know - probably just a screw up but doesn't help them any IMO. Is there something to hide? No clue - only thing I know is they said 2mm exceeded their acceptable repair threshold and that's obviously not completely true or they're doing a poor job of demonstrating 2 different capabilities, cosmetic repair & structural repair. I don't care for a company to go to these lengths to explain what they do & have a question like this come up. Just me though - I don't trust wheel repair places for what I feel are very good reasons - and this just raises flags. It might be nothing though - who knows? Only they do & I doubt they're going to be very transparent about it. Next, let's dive into that groove they carved into 5 spokes all the way around the wheel 2mm deep. Just to not get out of hand even more, we're going to limit OEM talk to GM wheels - I know their specs better than others & there probably isn't a huge difference between the big 3. GM requires fatigue testing (the rotary, radial & impact tests shown in their video - there's that word test, not inspection ) to be done with wheels at low limit dimensions. Low limit is usually 0.4mm smaller (less, thinner) on ONE side or 0.8mm brake to curb (TWO sides) ALL OVER the wheel. In other words, it's not just a groove cut deeper on the face the whole wheel has been weakened. So, what they've done is cut a GROOVE (one small area) that is a bit over 2x deeper than what GM requires for typical fatigue testing (new wheel design validation). OK - not bad. Here's what they're not telling you. The area THEY determined to be vital for structural integrity is the WORST area they could pick for 2 of the 3 tests they did. That area will really only be affected by the impact fatigue test - the flange & the face side of the spokes. The other 2 tests usually have failures occurring on the BACK of the wheels (around weight reduction pockets in rear of spokes & areas on back of wheel where spokes meet the rim). Had they really wanted to impress a person with knowledge of wheel fatigue & failure, they'd have cut that groove on the back side & made it a bit deeper & much wider then repaired & ran their fatigue tests. That doesn't even mean the wheel would have failed, either. OEM wheel validation is done on a design by design basis, meaning each wheel with a different design has to be validated (actually it's every wheel mold but that really doesn't matter). But that experiment would have definitely been more severe than what they did in the video. Also, how did they grind it down so evenly all over & not have an obvious low spot? Probably recut the face (reface) and called it a day. 2mm is an a$$load to grind & blend out evenly (you'd have seen it in the reflections if it were ground down). Finally, let's look at that spec - SAE J2530. The AWRS says all repaired wheels meet or exceed the OEM spec: If you click the bottom red link, you see that they tested 7 bent rims that had been straightened & all passed. Great. Here's the problem though, SAE spec is only a MINIMUM spec that OEM has to pass - OEM is actually required to pass a much more rigid internal spec that isn't available to anyone who isn't a supplier to GM. In other words, by passing the internal spec, they automatically pass SAE because SAE isn't as harsh. So I'm not really sure where the "wheels tested to OEM standards" part comes from - it's true, but only in part (half the story for the 2nd time from them). They're not exceeding anything of GMs test requirements by any stretch of the imagination - only on rotary fatigue are they even meeting it. They're falling short on radial fatigue by 10x. Impact is impact - weight & height. Hard to skew the test to show in your favor with a one & done test I didn't read anything on their site about every repaired wheel being tested - I think what they're showing is their repair process has been tested on a sample size of wheels & they didn't fail. More like a process validation. But can you validate a repair process for each & every design, regardless of where the repaired damage occurs? Doubtful. If you repair an area that doesn't tend to fail the fatigue test, it's likely going to pass - but what if the repair is in those high-risk areas (edges of weight reduction pockets on back of spokes or in the rim/spoke union area)? It's probably going to fail or at the very least is going to increase the odds. Reheat treatment? Hmmm. That's a new one to me unless they call heat treatment holding a weld torch in a specific area and then cooling it. Fair enough but not what I would call an exact or proven process. Heat treatment is a very controlled process & the quenching temps are vital for a successful heat treatment. Now, if they're heating the ENTIRE wheel and cooling it - forget it. No way is that safe as the OTHER non-damaged areas would become more brittle and lose their original mechanical properties. Not going to get into that because it would require too much speculation on my part. I also didn't see the subject covered on their site but I didn't dig too far into that subject matter. It was simply something you mentioned above & I'm not really trying to turn this into tit for tat either; maybe your contact told you that? I dunno. Keep in mind, I am NOT disputing MINOR straightening (what I assume you had done) but these bends on rims, which go beyond the bead seat areas?? Not safe by a long shot. The picture below shows 2 things - a bend AND surface fracturing (area inside the rectangle has been moved/compressed past the aluminum's elasticity - it's reached its yield point & has fractured). The bend can be removed & the SURFACE ground & puttied & smoothed & polished but the INTERNAL structure has been compromised, regardless of what it looks like when it's all shined up & pretty. But is it safe? In this particular example, probably yes, because it's on an area of the wheel that's not really load bearing. However, we're talking wheel repair here - if that was in between the inner & outer bead seats on the rim area? Absolutely not safe - load bearing. On the back or front of spokes? Absolutely not. Radial & rotary fatigue will eventually open those areas up. Like I've said, I'm not saying ALL repair is bad - but I'm not going to say nothing when I see some potential half-truths & smoke & mirrors when I see it (not by you, but by the repair service site). If the above doesn't tell you something & what I said was standard scrapping practice by a globally known wheel maker in the racing, aftermarket & OEM segments doesn't speak volumes (and they were tight-a$$es - scrapping wasn't looked at as a good thing) then I'm not sure what else I can say will. Also, consider we're talking wheel repair - I've seen weld up repairs, etc. & am referring to really bad damage - not just the truing up of things. Maybe this particular company is better at sorting these out & not even considering them - I just can't say for sure & they aren't saying either. I'm fine with agreeing to disagree but there are videos out there of other repairers taking a wheel that should be scrapped and reforming it using hydraulic presses with arms to isolate the pushing & pulling. Not what I'd consider straightening or minor repair by a long shot. Sorry if some of this is repetitive, long posts are at times difficult for me to keep track of the main points. The economic impacts? Insurance companies for one (at least in wheel repair). Cheaper to repair a rim than pay for a brand new one which will probably end up being a Chinese made knock off (not original OEM) in most cases. Still shady in some cases. First heard about wheel repair in Europe then over here.
  17. 1 point
    I plan on trading in a couple years so I didn’t, but even if I planned to keep it forever I wouldn’t buy one. Especially not at that price. Better off “self insuring” and setting that money aside for if something happens rather than handing it to the dealer right away. Almost guarantee you won’t need to spend that much on repairs over the 5-7 years the vehicle is out of the factory warranty, especially if you are handy and can do the work yourself.
  18. 1 point
    Installed the multipro Kicker audio system for the tailgate today:
  19. 1 point
    I did it yesterday. Think I see it in your pic. It's an intertwined pair of wires. One solid yellow, one yellow and black. Look just right of that red/white wire.
  20. 1 point
    Lmao. This is so outlandish. You are talking about a full body on frame vehicle that can carry 1500-2000lbs or payload and can tow anywhere from 9-11k lbs. What would you call 3/4 tons of the 90's then? Since those are basically the same towing and hauling ratings. It says right in the ad that truck was a loaner truck. Lol
  21. 1 point
    I see.... EBCM = electronic brake control module. So ECM (engine control module) and TCM (transmission control module) are left alone? Man, there are a lot of modules on these trucks! Thanks!
  22. 1 point
    I asked this when my EPS was flashed under that recall. I was worried the learning would be reset. I was told the 're-flash' only changes the targeted line of code. It's more of a rewrite than a re-flash.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Going to have the TPMS light on and check tire pressure warning on. Sensors are cheap enough, just buy 4 more and put them on the winter wheels.
  25. 1 point
    I will admit my vision is a little tainted to some respect. Being an old Army Cavalry Sergeant, I expect everyone to pack the gear. No gold bricks in the bunch. To that end, I pay for 8 cylinders and I expect them all to work all the time the motor is running. If I wanted a 4 cylinder, I would have bought a 4 cylinder like the motor in my wife's Equinox. Therefore, I will not buy a vehicle where some of the cylinders take OEM or Union inspired smoke breaks while the others have to do the work. In other words, the goofy AFM stuff which, to wit this forum, has caused quite a bit of heartburn for many owners leading to many repairs and work around patches. And the issue of LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition) issues that can really mess up an engine that has higher compression ratios like the 6.2 Ecotec, especially with the engine down speeding motivation of the OEM's in an attempt to improve fuel economy by using taller and taller differential ratios in 1/2 ton pickups and autos. And one will not know it is an issue till damage is done since the ECM tries to work around it, so the only real prevention to this common problem is using higher octane fuels which are significantly more expensive. Thus, while not "required" by the OEM (mostly for marketing reasons), using Premium only in the 6.2 Ectoec is probably a wise idea. This leads to why we use only 100 octane E85 in my wife's Equinox with the Flex Fuel 2.4L 11.2:1 compression ratio engine. Roughly $1.20 less than Premium in my area so is far more cost effective per mile to use, even with the lower MPG. So, LSPI will never be a factor. Unfortunately the 6.2 Ecotec is not a flex fuel motor. Less complexity or being "less refined" is not always a bad thing. Occam's Razor principle comes to mind as well as Scotty's comment in a Star Trek movie about the more complicated the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain. And since the only way to avoid this sort of thing right out of the gate is to buy a 3/4 ton or larger, that puts the bottom end of the truck line for me at the 2500 or Class 2 level. And, thankfully, the 6.6L L8T does not have AFM stuff, and the compression ratio is lower than the 6.2 Ecotec, making the issue of LSPI less of a probability by using regular fuel. Fortunately, the 2500 line can be had quite frequently for the same or even less money off the lot than much of the 1/2 ton line.
  26. 1 point
    Thank you. Get tired of the whining when as you say millions of these trucks without issues.
  27. 1 point
    Have you tired to clay bar the truck? Even a new vehicle will have some contamination on it. First thing I did when I got it home, clayed, polished and ceramic coated.
  28. 1 point
    see the round pad on the lowest leaf spring. what i do at the dealership is get 4 of those and install them on the upper springs replacing the square pads and the noise goes away. we had a meeting with some engineers and this is what they came up with to fix the popping noise from the leaf springs.
  29. 1 point
    I know it's a long shot. I've been searching for the last two hours. I need the part numbers for the top and bottom glass for the driver side on a 16 GMC 3500. Had a lady mirror slap me.
  30. 1 point
    ok battery. also remove neg cable 1st and always install it last. there is a support bar that runs next to battery, it has 3 screws take it off/out. hold down below the battery towards that bar, 13 mm bolt. remove it. there is a 10 mm nut at the corner of the battery that holds the coolant tank in place , remove it. it allows you to move the coolant tank for clearance. then remove the covers on the positive side. undo the nut at the battery post, the plastic tray that has the fuseblock/wires in it can be moved it clips on to the battery. pull it up and towards the engine on the bar that is standing there that you remove the top cross bar to. remove battery. be careful not to damage the fuse block, if that breaks/shorts etc you will literally be dead in the water not able to power up the vehicle at all. typically takes me 5 mins to do a battery.
  31. 1 point
    Kind of missed my point, if it is made from Natural Gas it’s NOT Synthetic.
  32. 1 point
    Let’s see GM completely redesigned the Chevy small block with cylinder deactivation, external vacuum pumps, start stop technology, you know stuff that can potentially prematurely wear your engine out. But some how they forgot to address the intake and exhaust? Me don’t think so. If you live at max RPM I’ll bit. Normal driving nope. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  33. 1 point
    This should be interesting [emoji6]
  34. 1 point
    Thanks for the confirmation Dan!!! I went ahead and replaced it myself! Vacuum held for about 45min so I dont think there are any other leaks, I guess time will tell but in the mean time I got COLD AIR!!!!!!!
  35. 1 point
    the vacuum pump is located on the driver side of the engine block just above the oil pan at the front of the block, it is driven by a belt on the pulley system. then a vacuum line runs from the top of the pump to the booster. in all the pumps ive replaced and remove that line from the pump to do so i have never seen any oil escaping from there.
  36. 1 point
    i have yet to see the pump come apart and sending metal shavings into the oil system. i have replaced about 50 of them.
  37. 1 point
    I've been working on my own vehicles (and everyone else's) since the day I got my license. Only top shelf synthetics have ever gone in my truck, right from the day it was broken in. Amsoil can be run up to 15k miles, even towing that entire time - been proven time and again. If you run Signature Series, you will NOT get any sludge - that's a fact, so long as you change it before 30k miles. My engine is STILL failing, and it ain't from a lack of maintenance. Trust me on that one. My rear differential has had Signature Series 75w-110 in it since it turned 40k miles. Here's what it looked like at 97k miles: Cars and trucks are built by the lowest bidder today. That's evident in every aspect. Maintenance plays a part in some, but not all failures today. Most failures are due to shoddy engineering and cheap metals, all to save the manufacturer a buck.
  38. 1 point
    Services intervals are written by marketing departments and have nothing to do with ultimate longevity, just to get out of warranty. It's NOT in GM's best interest to not have their truck last, they make money off it breaking. I've never once followed a factory service interval, I follow my own and have never had a breakdown or hard failure in almost a million combined miles. Buy/build a pan with a drain plug and you won't have to deal with the virtually worthless dipstick-suck method. You'll be surprised how much gunk is waiting for you in the pan.
  39. 1 point
    2 inch leveling kit from Rough Country and 275 65 18 Michelin Primacy tires
  40. 1 point
    Not mine, but I finally get a nice loaner while my ‘19 is being wrenched on again. Really like the Quicksilver Metallic. Super sharp on this SLT.
  41. 1 point
    2018 GMC All Terrain Bilstien 5100s all around (front at highest setting) Stock blocks in back Stock UCAs 295 55 20 Ridge Grapplers No Spacers Minimum Rubbing at FULL lock on UCA
  42. 1 point
    Just saw the new grille LED lights Rough Country just release for the 2019 T1. Has anyone installed these yet and how difficult is it to install? https://www.roughcountry.com/chevy-led-grille-kit-70817c.html?find=2019-chevy-silverado-1500-4wd-381258
  43. 1 point
    New to the forum. Lurked for a while, long time Chevy fan, love the community and all the great info here. Chevy used a picture of my truck in their Memorial Day social media campaign. Kinda cool to have them contact me for that and to see it in my feed as I randomly scroll through one day. This is my current ride. 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ crew 6.2L and my fifth Silverado over all. My previous models were: 2009 LT Z71 2012 LTZ 6.2 2014 LTZ Z71 2017 LTZ Z71 Midnight Edition and a 2000 S10 Xtreme back in the day. My wife is on her third Tahoe, currently driving a 2017 LT Z71.
  44. 1 point
    Yep Grabbed a couple of these ports on Amazon for 13 bucks. Pulled the dash apart and tapped into the existing 12V port to give me power to this. Now I have 4 QC 3.0 ports to charge everything at once. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  45. 1 point
    I have exhaust which I like the sound, but if you like the sound at start up, I would suggest the resonator delete. It will be cheap to have done. Plus, you can swap the muffler out later if it isn’t enough.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    MBRP installer series
  48. 1 point
    I ask God the same question. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
  49. 1 point
    I got mine directly from the dealer but only because I redeemed the myChevrolet points so I ended up not paying anything out of pocket for them.
  50. 1 point
    Never use a pressure flush that push fluid backwards. It can dislodge particles that will shorten tranny life. Use the radiator disconnect and let the tranny pump fluid out while adding more. Bag method ideal - but you can add new thru dipstick as well. Not sure of the jiffy method. Can't imagine they can get two hoses down the tube in a way that they can pump in new fluid without sucking it right back out Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
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