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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    LOL. Quit calling people liars. Thank you so much for posting that picture. Just because one person didn't get the deal they wanted does not mean no one else will/does. I got the exact same for my 2018 selling it back to the dealer as i paid for it. Owned it for 2 months. I just was not happy with it. I have purchased a bunch of vehicles from them and i have a good relationship with the used vehicle manager. He had a buyer that was looking for a truck like i had and he flipped it for $500 to the dealership. Seller happy, buyer happy, dealer happy.
  2. 2 points
    There we go. Wondering how long this would take.
  3. 2 points
    My 2011 Silverado was color matched. It was a black truck. Sorry... had to...
  4. 2 points
    Today? Drove it like I stole it because gas is like $1. Hammer down!
  5. 2 points
    Great job! Persistence and some hard work saved you $1400.00. Most don't try because they assume they will lose the battle before it even starts.
  6. 1 point
    Hello, everybody. Many of you asked for flow data on our throttle bodies, and we listened. You wanted numbers to replace words and you've got them. Here we go. This test is fairly simple and very effective, it says a lot about a valve, about how air is allowed into the manifold/engine and how much of it you get. It is done by using an airflow bench (a large airflow meter) applying a controlled vacuum at the outlet of the TB just like the manifold does. Air is then drawn into the throttle body through its inlet, we fix the throttle position (blade position) and take a measurement of how much air is being drawn. We do that about 50 times, one every 1-2% of throttle opening, starting when fully closed until it is fully open and we build a flow curve that characterizes the TB. We do all that for the stock TB and for the our Modified ones, and then compare them. Test set up. Figures 1-3 show the flow bench, fixtures, the test sample, and a velocity stack. Results. Figures 4 and 5 show what happens when you go from your stock 87mm TB (6.2L trucks) to our 100mm TB.
  7. 1 point
    I posted in another thread I thought eibach made the springs.....they aren't that far away from each other and eibach custom makes springs as well I believe that thing flashing with the model and price is very annoying, lol.....idk how many appreciate that when your trying to just look I dig the blue as well, would have no issue running those bad boys.... and correct on spring rate....want to run softest rate possible, spring just holds the truck up so shock can do its job, if you have winch, bumper, etc than obviously need heavier its funny because theory of suspension is probably same or similar in all motorsports....for motocross its exactly same....the spring is for riders weight.....shock dampening does all work....
  8. 1 point
    Just like [mention=208424]Dunn[/mention] said, Filthy Motorsports has great info and they can order special colors for you. Accutune Offroad are knowledgeable too and has great videos on valving. Personally I like the blue bling but if you want more subtle color specifically the coils, powder coat is the best route but can chip/flake. Good thing is all King coils are from Eibach so you can just tell whoever you order from to get the standard silver Eibach spring with the same length/spring rate and the quality will hold better since it’s from the manufacturer vs small shop powder coating it. I recommend not going too high on the spring rate, it’ll get stiff so get whatever is recommended from King at the lowest rate. My guess is 600lbs unless you plan to add a lot of weight up front (i.e. steel bumper, winch, etc). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 1 point
    For the original post, the dealers I spoke with today during my trade won't give you both the $6500 GM rebate and the 0% together. You have to choose one of those. They have to make their money somewhere! If you do manage to get both, please don't post it on here or I'm going to feel like an idiot!
  10. 1 point
    Wow. I just looked back and saw the details here. Didn't you just buy that at4 the other day? Traded the white TB for the black AT4? I was thinking that was an awesome trade up for you. Now a denali a day later. Ouch that has got to hurt. Post up pics of the denali!!! A question i have always had for people that trade that fast is did you not notice the problem during the test drive or did you have tunnel vision for the 6.2/10? I own an AT4 myself but never drove the TB. Was there a difference between the TB and the AT4? Just curious. Also glad you are happy with the final outcome. Thats all that matters.
  11. 1 point
    0/84 and 4 deferred only appears to soften the blow. Reality is it extends the blow. The 1 and only way that pays off is if you keep it for 89 months and it doesn't get wrecked but i do get the initial satisfaction. No payment then low payment right away.
  12. 1 point
    Thank you for posting all those options. Im good with not having the 22s I have a 7000lb travel trailer we pull 6 months out of the year on the weekends. I currently use a 2015 5.3 with a 3.42 Trailer package and it does pretty good, but would like to step up to a 6.2 but want the max towing ability to just have best trailer towing out of a 1500. I dont want a 3/4 ton because i use my truck for business travel out of state and want better MPG. Also like the 6.2 because its quick. For some reason I dont care for the chrome grill on the LTZ. Maybe the RST with 6.2 with NHT is an option with less options on the interior. Thanks for yalls input. I may have to settle for a LTZ because they seem the most available with NHT.
  13. 1 point
    Yep. Sometimes it works out. Sometimes it doesn't.
  14. 1 point
    Why go conventional in an unconventional world, why go part (full Synthetic) synthetic when you can go 100% Synthetic! Amsoil 100% Synthetic is the best oil for engine protection, the rest is snake oil. Sent from Above
  15. 1 point
    Given all the forum crying the mileage on your truck alone speaks for both itself and its owner. Don't worry about what others think.
  16. 1 point
    Well the truck decided to make my life easy and finally displayed the hood ajar warning when I started it this afternoon. Obviously the hood was not open and I also got the theft attempt message so instead of going to the dealer it’s $25 shipped off eBay for an OEM latch so I went ahead and ordered it. Unplugged it for now so if it doesn’t go off tonight then it’s ?
  17. 1 point
    The max tow in reality offers very little over the regular 6.2 towing abilities. Why not just go with a 6.2/323 standard towing pkg truck? If you really need 12k lb towing capability you might want to consider a 3/4 ton. Just my opinion.
  18. 1 point
    For the most part correct. Getting the Dexos license assures you of a few things: 1.) It is a full synthetic meaning Group III or above base oil 2.) Has a NOACK under 13% (SAE spec is 15%) Your motor won't fall apart if you use an SN Plus Conventional IF YOU CHANGE IT OFTEN ENOUGH.
  19. 1 point
    Pepper should have dropped dead by now. 0W20 since early on. Spec is 5W30. No issues, no oil usage. Red Line, what she's been on most of her life, yea...not approved most of that time. Still not an SN=Plus in the HP line. They have added a black bottle version that is SNPlus and Dexos approved. It is not an ester however. Tis a Group III/PAO. Many other factors at play and these sorts of fella reporting 'filter' their information to set the table for a cause MOST of the time. Truth is hard to come by me thinks. Recently went back to 5W30 after completing making a 100K mile point on both damage and efficiency.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks for replying. I checked out link and took a screen shot of service bulletin to take with me to dealer. Hard to tell for sure location of noise . Thanks again Dave
  21. 1 point
    Not for long! These forums are full of posts of folks with AFM problems and the usual common theme on the low mileage ones is that they used the wrong oil, either by weight or not GM approved.
  22. 1 point
    Pending on where you live after 3 times they fix something mechanical you are eligible for lemon law Not sure about Camera/stereo stuff but if these problems add up to 30 days in shop i would call BBB and start the process
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Ford's used to be subscription-based, they made it free late last year. https://www.cars.com/articles/ford-makes-fordpass-connect-remote-vehicle-services-free-411276/
  25. 1 point
    Trim plates went well, looks like if i hadn’t done them i’d be trimming the liner. here’s a picture of the angles on the drivers side Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  26. 1 point
    Thanks for the info. I may just get the bed rug. Had that on my last two trucks and was awesome. If you ever kneeled in the bed the rug is the way to go. I might be waiting for a while anyway with GM not productive with trucks now. I have time to think about it. I like forums, people have honest opinions and is very helpful.
  27. 1 point
    Used to be we worried about our stuff scratching the bed. Now we worry about the bed liner scratching our stuff. ?
  28. 1 point
    I didn't know that but now I do. Thanks!
  29. 1 point
    It says "This part also fits...", so according to GM, it will fit older models, along with newer But, I'm with the "check U pull it" crowd...probably get them for a handful of change, if they aren't rotted out. I noticed the other day that the plugs in the door of our 05 Tahoe are falling into the door shell (looks like the outer rim is deteriorated enough that it doesn't hold anymore). You can probably find a generic plug to fit the holes at the local auto parts store
  30. 1 point
    Here's the difference between Shell Rotella T1 Conventional and T6 Full Synthetic. OCI People were getting a million miles on gas motors when the SAE service class was SC. They just changed it more often.
  31. 1 point
    15 days ago there were 200 confirmed cases in the USA. Today as of now...68,572. Yea, we got a handle on it. Chicago Mayor has the boys in blue in force on Lake Shore ramping up compliance. Next move. Close the lake front and city parks. People are bringing it on themselves. Earlier I crunched some numbers for the USA and made an assumption that the USA was like China with a single point of origin. Ground zero if you will but the truth is there were multiple first persons in several parts of the country. That multiples the geometric progression by the number of first case incidence. I get people making the choice to "Live Free or Die". To put THIER economy head of safety. For themselves. Question is, do you have the right to make that choice for everyone else.
  32. 1 point
    So today I started divining into the bearing adjuster install and found some helpful info on another forum. "Take your carrier bearing adjusters and install the roller bearings in both. Install new lock tabs, using a dab of grease to hold them in place, then drive the adjusters into place in both case halves. Set your distance on the adjusters back to about what they where when you removed them, this will just give you a starting point for setup". My issue here is sort of two part. one of the adjusters was pretty bad and had to be tossed, the second adjuster I had to unscrew to clean, not realizing I needed to gauge the gap. So no luck there. But I think I can full screw then together and then unscrew a bit and install. Then adjust once I get the carrier case in. So I am not too worried about this portion as I will have to make adjustments anyway. This part is strange. So when I disassembled the diff, I had no locking tabs on either side. The right side, long axle shaft side, i figured the lock tab was destroyed due to that side bearing failing. However, the opposite side did not have one either. So I decided I would head to the dealer to see what their thoughts were. They pulled up the drawing and showed that I do not have those in my 2015 GMC sierra Denali 1500 8.25/3.42 front diff. So they stated I did not need them. Yet when I look in the case I can see where both of the lock tabs would go. So now I am confused. Does anyone have any thoughts on my confusion with the lock tabs? I know I may be overthinking all of this but I really want to get this right and I have a lot of time on my hand and the truck is not critical at the moment. Nice and slow to get it right. Pics below:
  33. 1 point
    I ended up with the AllDATAdiy and it was pretty limited for my 2015 in terms of front diff. Gave pricing and parts with some exploded views but nothing too detailed. For my 2009 Yukon XL it was extensive so that is good.
  34. 1 point
    Have your battery checked out. They do not last long from the factory, or disconnect it for 30 minutes or so, hook it back up and see what happens.
  35. 1 point
    Here ya go- Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/Partsam-Ranger-Pioneer-Maverick-Footwell/dp/B07HNRG5P2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=partsam+led+rock+lights&qid=1585173412&sr=8-4
  36. 1 point
    In this picture, you see the oil filler cap and the brake reservoir. This is the camera pointing back at the firewall right in front of the driver. Reaching back between those two, the firewall has a large bundle of wires coming out of it. The wires go through a special grommet, that has an extra little tab on it. You can see that tab on the bottom there. You're going to cut the end of that tab off so you can jam the wire in there. I tried to use scissors first, then a razor blade. I gave up and went with side cutters and they worked great. Either remove the end with the side cutters, or make a slit large enough to push in the end of the wire from the first pic. DO NOT PUT THE WIRE IN YET. DO NOT PUT THE "eye" END OF THE WIRE IN THERE - USE THE END FROM THE PICTURE. DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES - BE VERY CAREFUL AND JUST CUT THE END OF THE 1" LONG TAB ON THE GROMMET.
  37. 1 point
    First up! The 10-ga wire. This wire will power the switches and a few amps for each switch to whatever you want to power. It routes power from the battery on the passenger side, across the top of the firewall, through a special grommet in the firewall, to the new electrical box under the kickpanel that you haven't installed yet. In this picture, you'll see the end of the wire that you're going to shove through a special grommet in the firewall
  38. 1 point
    Before I start, I want you to go find the parts for this thing. BESIDES the switches and kick panel, you should have 1) A long 10-ga wire that's wrapped with foil heat protection. 2) An electrical box with several connectors, and several fuses and relays inside 3) A pink bag containing studs, bolts, big fuses, metal plates, and very importantly a black plastic connector with no wires. Also, reading through the directions, my kit is missing two items: 1) Several plastic clips to replace factory ones under the hood 2) Two small hex-head screws to attach the electrical box under the kick panel. You can get away without the clips- you're going to need the screws or a replacement (which is what I'll do).
  39. 1 point
    There must be tow/haul grade braking and regular grade braking then because mine kicks in outside of tow haul mode also.
  40. 1 point
    I had 35/12.5r20 Toyo R/T's on my '15 HD and they sucked. I also felt while they looked good, the 12.5 width was a sacrifice in drivability. I had 305/55r20 on that truck first (hankook RT10's) and they drove and rode much better @ 12.3" width. As far as Toyo's my R/T's on anything slightly wet slid all over. I'm talking paved roundabout. I think it was the compound. Or the sipeing or lack of it? I didn't want to go toyo again so I went with the Falken Wildpeak's this time. 295/60r20. Only a couple hundred miles so far so not much of an opinion yet but I'm happy with the noise level. I also think that 34" tall and 11.75" width is a good place to shoot for bigger looks with decent ride and handling. That said, it does take turbo diesel torque to turn these pigs and your MPG's will drop 1 or 2.
  41. 1 point
    The mid 80's are cool trucks for sure. You can make them as fast as any muscle car with a GM crate motor for easy to build fun. Even the ugly colors like this look badass.
  42. 1 point
    Well you did type out that we have 4 total cats, two primary and two secondary so... But I still count 3 cats, so saying 3rd cat still fits the bill if you ask me. Doesn't matter that it's "secondary" to the primary ones, still a 3rd cat. ?
  43. 1 point
    I am over 4000 miles and am averaging 23.1 mpg
  44. 1 point
    It does quite fine in the mountains with a load. I get the feeling I’m the only one here who has actually worked a 2.7 over in terms of carrying a load with any elevation. Passing and pulling hills are no issue - usually in 8th or 7th gear. If you’re familiar with a diesel, the 2.7 feels eerily similar. It keeps the revs down as low as it can, spools the turbo and lets the torque do the work.
  45. 1 point
    ^^^^^^This guy would know for sure.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    2018 GMC All Terrain Bilstien 5100s all around (front at highest setting) Stock blocks in back Stock Stamped UCAs 295 55 20 Ridge Grapplers No Spacers Minimum Rubbing at FULL lock on UCA
  48. 1 point
    Was replying to the gear thread - don't know how that happened?
  49. 1 point
    Factory spray bed liner seems pretty tough in my truck. And I’ve thrown all sorts of things in there. Granted it’s a 2017 and not that old?
  50. 1 point
    Yeah so don't fvck with me!!!! Hahaaaa.....JK! I threw some carpet and cardboard over the engine and crawed my fat ass over it all. BTW 6' RT
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