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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/18/2020 in all areas

  1. I've been following this build for some time and find it amazing. I'd take this over any turbo 6.2 build anytime. Hope you enjoy it.
    2 points
  2. I have about 650 miles on my 3.0 and have no complaints about noise. It is my first truck and first diesel but would consider the noise that enters the cabin to be average compared to what I have experience with. Not super quiet but not loud either. The radio or fan for climate control easily covers it up. I actually really like that diesel clatter.
    2 points
  3. A new headliner for your truck is a must have, period. Sealing the entire gap between glass and cab should, in my mind, stop any water from finding a way in. Remember, you can bring your truck to ANY GM truck dealer. I have found a HUGE difference in service between dealers. Some are great. Some should not be allowed to go anywhere near a new vehicle. (I used to work at a dealership many years ago, saw it first hand even then.)
    2 points
  4. aaah ok. looks like you dont know. Now it makes sense. Original shocks lick balls. Bounce around like a car with 300k miles on it. Even worse towing a 33' travel trailer. Glad it made a big difference vs stock junk ?
    2 points
  5. Oh, here’s a picture of the final product.
    2 points
  6. It ain't the pickup trucks, but the glorious, majestic Joe Diffie mullet that brought the ladies to the yard.
    2 points
  7. If that is the stock size you are super limited on tires because there are basically none. You will have to switch to a 285/45/22 or a 285/50/22 for more options and actual snow tires. The 285/45 is .7in smaller and the 285/50 is .4 larger. Both will work just fine on the stock rim without issues. I live in Minnesota, it's just as cold and get just as much or more snow than Wisconsin and I've been just fine on "all season" truck tires. Got Firestone Destination LE2's on it now in some 18's, with 4 wheel drive it works great.
    2 points
  8. Hello I installed these yesterday. They look soooo good. Great upgrade for the 19-21 Silverado Custom, Trail Boss, or Work Truck
    1 point
  9. Precision Trans does a tear down on the 6l80/90e trans
    1 point
  10. Thanks. What's wild is I was only trying to share the link to that post. When I saw it all posted I was like $!×+[emoji44] oh well lol Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. The cords in the Diesels will work when the temps get into the 30s, don't worry about that 17 degree crap. Even in my LMM Duramax trucks (2- 2008) and the LML (2012) the block heater would engage when the temps were in the 30s. The engine started easier and in some cases, there was already warm air for heat. Get the block heater installed, you won't regret it. BUT let me suggest that if you tend to park it at night and not need it again until the morning, put it on a timer. heavy duty timer. (and extension cord) Why? The block heaters in the big boy duramaxs uses 1000 watts of electricity. And you will notice it on your electricity bill! OUCH. Setting it to come on 3 hours prior to your departure will be plenty of time for things to get warmed up, unless you live up in Alaska or the Canadian north.
    1 point
  12. You seriously need to find a different dealer to bring your truck to. No way in hell would I find that even close to acceptable!!!
    1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. I've purchased Christmas gifts for the same lady for almost 50 years and I can never relax until I get this particular shopping completed! I learned early on not to join the men on Christmas eve shopping at Walmart and today I can proudly say this year's presents are now wrapped and ready. I even did an online gift purchase without her knowledge. An old G-mail account, a Visa gift card and a neighbor's mailing address were all that were required! Sometimes the thought and effort that goes into a gift earns more points than the actual present! There were Christmases when I could blame a lack of time for gifts that didn't reflect a lot of thought but no chance of this excuse working for me in 2020! If you haven't got your essential shopping done, git 'er done!
    1 point
  15. First good wax and new 275/70 R18 Yokohama Geolander MT G003s. -Eli
    1 point
  16. '21 3.0L in Satin Steel - Standard Bed, tow mirrors, standard 20" Denali wheels, standard step boards,(BVT), Front and Rear molded splash guards ( VQK) -all other stuff is standard on Denali, or not visible in picture If you think you might want trailer tire pressure sensors some day order them (PTT) from the factory -- much cheaper than buying as an accessory, and they are not longer included with every truck. I suspect, but didn't check, it's the same pricing thing with the 'Auxiliary Trailer Camera' (TRO). Probably more pricey from accessories.
    1 point
  17. If it is moving freely the first thing I would do is get under the truck and verify the shifter linkage is hooked up and not broken.
    1 point
  18. Guys our trucks computers have like 7 diff charging modes. 15.whatever is one. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/211229-charging-system/?do=findComment&comment=2104404&share_tid=211229&share_pid=2104404&share_fid=33003&share_type=t&link_source=app These trucks do not use traditional/old school alternator with voltage sensing charging systems. As much info as the ECM must have to do what is described, it seems likely that a fault in either alternator would result in a message. This is a little of GM's info on this system as presented in the upfitter guides: Charging System Description and Operation Electrical Power Management Overview The electrical power management system is designed to monitor and control the charging system and send diagnostic messages to alert the driver of possible problems with the battery and generator. This electrical power management system primarily utilizes existing on-board computer capability to maximize the effectiveness of the generator, to manage the load, improve battery state-of-charge and life, and minimize the system's impact on fuel economy. The electrical power management system performs 3 functions: • It monitors the battery voltage and estimates the battery condition. • It takes corrective actions by boosting idle speeds, and adjusting the regulated voltage. • It performs diagnostics and driver notification. The battery condition is estimated during ignition-off and during ignition-on. During ignition-off the state-of-charge of the battery is determined by measuring the open-circuit voltage. The state-of-charge is a function of the acid concentration and the internal resistance of the battery, and is estimated by reading the battery open circuit voltage when the battery has been at rest for several hours. The state-of-charge can be used as a diagnostic tool to tell the customer or the dealer the condition of the battery. Throughout ignition-on, the algorithm continuously estimates state-of-charge based on adjusted net amp hours, battery capacity, initial state-of-charge, and temperature. While running, the battery degree of discharge is primarily determined by a battery current sensor, which is integrated to obtain net amp hours. In addition, the electrical power management function is designed to perform regulated voltage control to improve battery state-of-charge, battery life, and fuel economy. This is accomplished by using knowledge of the battery state-of-charge and temperature to set the charging voltage to an optimum battery voltage level for recharging without detriment to battery life. The Charging System Description and Operation is divided into 3 sections. The first section describes the charging system components and their integration into the electrical power management. The second section describes charging system operation. The third section describes the instrument panel cluster operation of the charge indicator, driver information center messages, and voltmeter operation. Charging System Components Generator The generator is a serviceable component. If there is a diagnosed failure of the generator it must be replaced as an assembly. The engine drive belt drives the generator. When the rotor is spun it induces an alternating current (AC) into the stator windings. The AC voltage is then sent through a series of diodes for rectification. The rectified voltage has been converted into a direct current (DC) for use by the vehicles electrical system to maintain electrical loads and the battery charge. The voltage regulator integral to the generator controls the output of the generator. It is not serviceable. The voltage regulator controls the amount of current provided to the rotor. If the generator has field control circuit failure, the generator defaults to an output voltage of 13.8 V. Body Control Module (BCM) The body control module (BCM) is a GMLAN device. It communicates with the engine control module (ECM) and the instrument panel cluster for electrical power management (electrical power management) operation. The BCM determines the output of the generator and sends the information to the ECM for control of the generator turn on signal circuit. It monitors the generator field duty cycle signal circuit information sent from the ECM for control of the generator. It monitors a battery current sensor, the battery positive voltage circuit, and estimated battery temperature to determine battery state of charge. The BCM performs idle boost. Battery Current Sensor The battery current sensor is a serviceable component that is connected to either the negative or positive battery cable at the battery. The battery current sensor is a 3-wire hall effect current sensor. The battery current sensor monitors the battery current. It directly inputs to the BCM. It creates a 5-volt pulse width modulation (PWM) signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0–100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5– 95 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 95–100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. Engine Control Module (ECM) When the engine is running, the generator turn-on signal is sent to the generator from the ECM, turning on the regulator. The generator's voltage regulator controls current to the rotor, thereby controlling the output voltage. The rotor current is proportional to the electrical pulse width supplied by the regulator. When the engine is started, the regulator senses generator rotation by detecting AC voltage at the stator through an internal wire. Once the engine is running, the regulator varies the field current by controlling the pulse width. This regulates the generator output voltage for proper battery charging and electrical system operation. The generator field duty terminal is connected internally to the voltage regulator and externally to the ECM. When the voltage regulator detects a charging system problem, it grounds this circuit to signal the ECM that a problem exists. The ECM monitors the generator field duty cycle signal circuit, and receives control decisions based on information from the BCM. Instrument Panel Cluster The instrument panel cluster provides the customer notification in case a concern with the charging system. There are 2 means of notification, a charge indicator and a driver information center message of SERVICE BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM if equipped. Charging System Operation The purpose of the charging system is to maintain the battery charge and vehicle loads. There are 6 modes of operation and they include: • Battery Sulfation Mode • Charge Mode • Fuel Economy Mode • Headlamp Mode • Start Up Mode • Voltage Reduction Mode The engine control module (ECM) controls the generator through the generator turn ON signal circuit. The ECM monitors the generator performance though the generator field duty cycle signal circuit. The signal is a pulse width modulation (PWM) signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0–100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5–95 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 95– 100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. The following table shows the commanded duty cycle and output voltage of the generator: Commanded Duty Cycle Generator Output Voltage 10% 11 V 20% 11.56 V 30% 12.12 V 40% 12.68 V 50% 13.25 V 60% 13.81 V 70% 14.37 V 80% 14.94 V 90% 15.5 V The generator provides a feedback signal of the generator voltage output through the generator field duty cycle signal circuit to the ECM. This information is sent to the body control module (BCM). The signal is PWM signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0– 100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5– 99 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements. Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met. • The wipers are ON for more than 3 seconds. • GMLAN (Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request) is true, as sensed by the HVAC control head. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. • The estimated battery temperature is less than 0° C (32°F). • Battery State of Charge is less than 80 percent. • Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) • Current sensor fault exists. • System voltage was determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature. Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 amperes and greater than −8 amperes, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80 percent. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present. Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the headlamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V. Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 seconds. Voltage Reduction Mode The BCM will enter Voltage Reduction Mode when the calculated ambient air temperature is above 0°C (32° F). The calculated battery current is less than 1 ampere and greater than −7 amperes, and the generator field duty cycle is less than 99 percent. Its targeted generator output voltage is 12.9 V. The BCM will exit this mode once the criteria are met for Charge Mode. Instrument Panel Cluster Operation Charge Indicator Operation The instrument panel cluster illuminates the charge indicator and displays a warning message in the driver information center if equipped, when the one or more of the following occurs: • The engine control module (ECM) detects that the generator output is less than 11 V or greater than 16 V. The instrument panel cluster receives a GMLAN message from the ECM requesting illumination. • The instrument panel cluster determines that the system voltage is less than 11 V or greater than 16 V for more than 30 seconds. The instrument panel cluster receives a GMLAN message from the body control module (BCM) indicating there is a system voltage range concern. • The instrument panel cluster performs the displays test at the start of each ignition cycle. The indicator illuminates for approximately 3 seconds. Display Message: BATTERY NOT CHARGING SERVICE CHARGING SYSTEM or SERVICE BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM The BCM and the ECM will send a serial data message to the driver information center for the BATTERY NOT CHARGING SERVICE CHARGING SYSTEM or SERVICE BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM message to be displayed. It is commanded ON when a charging system DTC is a current DTC. The message is turned OFF when the conditions for clearing the DTC have been met. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  19. I filled the reservoir about halfway between min and max so not to overflow later hopefully. I haven't had any issues since then. Why they can't just put up a "Brake Fluid Low" warning I don't understand. Instead they make it seem like your computer is freaking out and your truck is about to blow up! lol Thank you @Eddie 70
    1 point
  20. I’ve driven my 21 Denali for almost a month now am very pleased with the sound level. There is a little rumble during acceleration but when it settles down at highway speeds it is quieter than the 2018 Centennial Edition I traded in. Sound level for me is great and fuel economy is consistently in the 24mpg range in mixed driving.
    1 point
  21. ROTFLOL, that was great. That's exactly what is sounds like the first time you hear it......awesome song though.
    1 point
  22. Fuel- Metallica 1000 Horse Power- Godsmack
    1 point
  23. My new 2021 Elevation 3.0 Duramax. Added a Frontier Bumper, Black Rhino Wheels with Toyo Tires, Backrack and a Revolver bedcover. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  24. If you are keeping it like you said, might just as well put in the best money can buy and IMO, that's AMSOIL. OEM lubes are from the low bid supplier. That does not mean they are not any good but they also are not the best available, only that they are good enough for GM. After the warranty is done, its your problem. They make money selling parts, service and new vehicles, they don't want it to last forever, they want to sell you a new one.
    1 point
  25. Right on man, I was wondering if you were able to get it and how it turned out. If you remember, take some pics and post them up to see the turnout. Funny little mods like this we just do, I forget to post them for reference.
    1 point
  26. Got the cover off. Once I figured it out from all the info, it came off pretty easy. Thank you for the help. I found there is enough room behind the cover to do what I want so, I am going to add an additional device inside the upper tray. Should work out fine that way. Again, thanks.
    1 point
  27. Yes sir, use it while you have it.
    1 point
  28. It’s a bad HVAC module. Has to be replaced. Here is an eBay listing of that the module looks like by itself. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154096326995 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  29. Falken Wildpeak AT3W, it's a AT tire but is certified for winter service. Checkout the winter performance videos on YouTube
    1 point
  30. The keypad was 145 and an hour of labor at 155. They said it took 1.5 hrs but they didn't quote ahead of time so I talked them down. Labor rates vary so check with your shop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  31. A guess would be the transmission cooler built into the radiator has cracked.
    1 point
  32. The July 08, 2019, update of 18-NA-355, update removed all diagnostic and/or PicoScope testing. With that update if the vehicle falls within the production period stated in the TSB AND the vehicle owner complains of shudder than the flush should be done without any other confirmation or diagnosis needed. "Revised July 08, 2019 - Updated the Warranty Information section, removed all of the Diagnostic and Pico testing information." However, TSB #18-NA-355 only applied to 2015 through 2018 Silverado/Sierra model years. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10163890-9999.pdf TSB #: 19-NA-121, Dated April 2020,, applies to 2019 model year Silverado/Seirras and states, "Diagnosis beyond the customer compliant is not required if vehicle was built prior to production dates indicated above." (March 01, 2019) https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10174268-9999.pdf March 01, 2019, GM officially started using the newest fluid during production (or so I'm told). Bottom Line: 2015 through 2019 model years (built before March 01, 2019), should get the flush/fill with the newest fluid IF, and only if, the vehicle owner complains of "shudder". Neither TSB covers hard shifting, delayed engagement, etc. History has shown if someone reports these other issues a dealership may use it as an excuse to refuse the flush/fill. So if someone wants the flush fill with the newest fluid, they must complain of "shudder". JMHO No expertise implied or expressed
    1 point
  33. Took it in and they found two loose wires and replaced the thermostat. Runs like a champ.
    1 point
  34. Kickstart My Heart - Motley Crue. Never thought of it before with any of my vehicles but now that you brought it up that is what I am playing when I pick my new one up ?
    1 point
  35. Do you tow or haul heavy loads with your Truck? 30 k seems quite early for fluid and filter change
    1 point
  36. I haven't had issue and only seen one person on the forum complain about the DFM having a problem but that topic has been removed (that guy and myself were getting a little heated, LOL). If there was some problems we would have seen them by now.
    1 point
  37. well, you may not like my advice ? I see a lot of posts where the diode was just inserted into the connector and press fit against the pin. I would not do it that way, but doing it "right" requires some skills and tools. I would highly suggest soldering a short lead of wire onto the diode pins, heat shrink it, and splice that into the bcm wires either by soldering it in or using taps, which should be ok for an interior circuit (inside the cabin, reasonably free from moisture). why? that press fit is unreliable. you could end up with a poor connection. over time and bumps it could loosen up, you could end up with intermittent connectivity, the cargo lights flashing etc. the worst case though is pulling current through a poor connection, something that would be very hard to detect in this case...until it burns your truck to the ground. ok, we're talking about relay controls here, they are pretty low current. if you were trying to jumper some of the BCM circuits that directly drive lights and you're running a larger diode with a couple amps I'd tell you don't even think about doing it that way, you're just asking for a fire. with relay control you're passing milliamps through the diode, however a poor connection is still dangerous. now, it seems that tons of people have done this mod by just shoving the diode leads down the connector cavities and haven't had a problem, so you'd probably be just fine. but I wouldn't do it that way on my truck. completely up to you, stressing again this seems to be the go-to way of doing this and it seems to work safely. but just saying, if that relay draws 100mA on the coil, and you have a bad connection with the pin (which could even develop a couple years down the road should the diode leads get some surface corrosion on them or work their way loose over rough roads) that 100mA would be enough current to generate enough heat to char or melt the BCM connector or even start a fire. I'm an ECE (electrical/computer engineer) so I like to do this kind of thing the right way. I don't change vehicles very often so when I do a mod like this I do it so it will work safely and reliably for 200k miles and 10 or more years. Even if you are just pulling dozens of mA though a very poor connection, the leads can get hot enough to burn your fingers in a matter of seconds. Neither the diode nor the connector/pins on the BCM harness are designed for making electrical connections that way. At least on my projects, it's not a risk that I take. Not to mention, especially with the reverse lights/cargo lights mod, there is a long diode lead completely exposed, not insulated, and spanning across 2 connections in the picture in the first post. This could short against something and either cause mod failure, bizarre behavior (wrong lights coming on), or damage the BCM or its wiring. That is definitely not a good idea. At very very least, put some heat shrink or electrical tape over the exposed parts of the leads.
    1 point
  38. I like this thread. Great pictures and cool mods. Keep up the good work OP!
    1 point
  39. so true, if i had found this forum before i bought my truck i probably would have kept my 2006. i am at 126k miles and have had to replace the thermostat, driveshaft and rear diff. my choise on the diff to have posi and to get rid of the wining noise. i also had to replace the signal switch and have had problems with the right side headlight. but i loved the truck from the first day i saw it and still like driving it. it will be with me for a few more years
    1 point
  40. I just did my first long trip, empty, 325 miles. It was freaking great, but I'm used to an 03 1500hd. I went down to Lake Cumberland from central Ohio, rolled 80 thru the KY hills on I 75 on cruise and there was no downshifting to climb, no accelerating when descending, just rolled 80... got about 15 mpgs. I am so glad I bought this truck, can't wait to see how she tows.
    1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. just buy out of state....and drive it back.....tons here do all the time, pretty common in this day and age
    1 point
  43. Much respect for doing something for those in need, especially now.
    1 point
  44. 1st off the HD's are NOT discounted like the 1500's as you probably know ... Seems to me the the the Massachusetts Dealerships have some type of illegal monopoly - they are always higher priced than other US regional areas and stick together pricewise in one way or another. I've bought 3 new Sierra 2500 HD SLT's from Quirk Manchester NH (04, 11, & 15) and after hours of negotiations struggled to get about 14% off MSRP, and a similar deal was all I could get from others as well +- They used to have a large selection of HD's and next lot over is Quirk Chevy to check out as well (actually the same location). Both dealerships are like Brand New and mostly easy going. Now today there is a shortage of 2020 HD's left and they are offering nearly no MSRP discount except for the Manufacturers $2000 - $4000 rebate +- Quirk is not a ripoff but they tend to offer about $1000-$2000 less on the Trade Book value. I may buy at Banks, Concord NH next time, they have Large Selection like Quirk NH and many have said it was much better than "Mass Dealers", & similar to deals at Quirk NH. Post what you find - I'm shopping too
    1 point
  45. AT4 trim is a top seller right now. When I bought my Denali on 11/2, it had an additional $1000 rebate over the AT4. You are also going to be limited by current supply. Sellers market to some degree. I purchased from Robertson’s in Wareham. Been in business a long time. Family owned and operated. Exceptional buying experience from start to finish. Deal included my trade-in. No BS, straight forward deal. They honored the First Responder discount that I qualified for while others would not.
    1 point
  46. Oh yeah!! Got satellite radio in that thing? I have a ton of respect for farmers and ranchers. a TON.
    1 point
  47. As someone whose last two cars were well capable of approaching 200mph, it’s really really disconcerting when that limiter kicks in at relatively austere speeds. On a close circuit in Mexico of course.
    1 point
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