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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/07/2021 in all areas

  1. I've been watching prices for several months, and the right deal came for me to pull the trigger. Time to go from two vehicles (Grand Cherokee Overland and 2005 Silverado LT) to one. Traded in my Grand Cherokee for a CPO one-owner 2019 LTZ 5.3L with 5K miles on it. Why this one? Hard to find the color (silver or satin steel with black interior) and options I wanted (LTZ II package, Texas edition, sunroof). I was on a budget, had all of my figures known before shopping. After much negotiation, Norman Frede Chevrolet gave me a deal nobody else could touch. I love the truck so far, and am surprised how much larger (longer, wider, and especially taller) it is than by 2005 Silvy. Got 24mpg driving home at 70 to 75 mph (all highway) on mostly flat roads (Houston, TX area). Lookin forward to learning from and contributing to this great forum.
    3 points
  2. This is the one I've used recently. It's pretty good. https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/23600/worlds-best-lasagna/ Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    3 points
  3. Ordered an extra pair of tailgate lights to convert to footwell lights. Kit came with a wiring harness which made it like oem. Used a bottle torch to heat the Stanley knife to "mill" the kick panels on the center console. Wiretapping into the BCM, making the footwell lights work with cab lights. They dim down like the rest. Did not use a relay, as each light draws .7 watts. Wiring harness was just right in length.
    2 points
  4. Long time member, just bought a CPO 2019 LTZ CC on Saturday. Here's one of the dealer pics...
    2 points
  5. 2019 LTZ. 4" Zone lift w/ Fox shocks, 35" Nitto Terra Grapplers, and Ranch Hands front and back.
    2 points
  6. 2021 Carhartt edition LTZ. Just about everything except the Technology package. Upgraded wheels Fuel Blitz 20" and Yokohama LT295/65/20 Geolandar M/T G003 tires.
    2 points
  7. On another note I’m loving the new headlight harness I got from @pgamboa I can have parking light and fogs on like the rest of y’all ? this is a 2014 Silverado LT with the 2016+ LTZ frontend but with the painted bumper
    2 points
  8. I don't care who wins but this will be the best part of the game. You can't take a knee for this. [emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631] Thanks to those who serve/served. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. Being debt free is the best feeling ever. (next to marrying an awesome woman) Enjoy your freedom.
    1 point
  10. A tiny Ford dealership in Hillsdale Michigan regularly has Baha Raptors, lifted 5.0 Roush supercharged trucks and lowered Roush supercharged “sport” trucks. Montrose Ford in Akron Ohio regularly sell rcsb 2wd 5.0 Roush supercharged trucks, and they are listed in the low $40k’s. It’s a good time to be a Ford fan.
    1 point
  11. More progress! Today I got the other letters cut, I got the lights all soldered up and installed into the chrome. I used shoe goo to seal up all of the openings in the plastic and cover the soldered connections. I used my silver paint pen on the edges of the plexi and was going to sand and coat them with matte clear but the nozzle broke when I popped the cap off, so that'll need to wait. Plexi cut: Soldering the LEDs together: Installed: They work!
    1 point
  12. Picked up my Brownstone SLT 2500 HD Gas last weekend. Love it! It was worth the wait since 11/5 Wow these trucks are big! Had to stand on a milk crate just to check the oil LOL!
    1 point
  13. That would work. It has a plastic screw out on each end and thought they would tighten up but didn't do a good job. The 4 screws in the middle are metal and affix to pre-existing holes and tightens up well.
    1 point
  14. Stingray, Z51 package, 7 speed manual. Replaced the chrome badges last year with the carbon flash ones (2nd pic)
    1 point
  15. I was asking about the Lasagna recipe....
    1 point
  16. Why can't you trust a ATOM? They make up everything ? Tom
    1 point
  17. Went up to the mountains this morning to take some photos. This is just from my phone, I’ll post the actual camera ones soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  18. Thanks. Make sure you have someone to help you unless your 7 ft tall. It is a little loose on the edges though. I may have to drill a couple of holes for more metal screws. Other than that looks pretty good. Ride looks good. Congrats. My first diesel as well. Love it.
    1 point
  19. Is this the moment where Agent Smith in The Matrix is absolutely curvy when he begins his interrogation of Morpheus? Is it life depicting at, or the other way around? I completely agree with you. To earth, we're worse than locusts and cockroaches. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. I put a bug deflector on so can't see it any more...
    1 point
  22. That's awesome! Thank you for posting that. They've finally owned up to the problem. My dealer pretty much treated me condescendingly and sent me on my way when I took it in.
    1 point
  23. Our friends have a 19 Tucson. 2.4 L non turbo. Yes it's quieter in the cab than our CRV. On the fence about dumping the Honda. Buying a Tucson Ultimate would cost over $10 K.
    1 point
  24. That's great because I enjoy reading your build threads - as I enjoy vehicle longevity and maintenance. Low tension rings are certainly a problem nowadays, mostly with poor oil quality and neglect. And with manufacturers telling their customers that they can go 10,000 miles on their oil changes - knowing full well that they are only on the hook until that warranty ends - they are seeing problems at around 120,000 miles. And the manufacturer doesn't care. Those rings just don't have enough tension to come out of their lands when they get sooted and sludged up. They stay stuck in there. First the oil ring, then the compression rings, then your cylinder wall get scored, then it's game over. But that takes time and I think it can be prevented and even slowed down enough with the methods you are implementing (if the walls aren't damaged). And if the rings aren't too stuck. Shorter intervals, periodic piston soaks. As you know, I now own a Toyota. Life has become almost boring. No oil consumption, no issues with the car. Just take care of it and drive it a ton. But Toyotas ARE developing engine problems now because of their 10,000 mile suggested drain interval. And it's not happening until later on (around the 100,000-120,00 mile mark). But there are youtube videos about it from Toyota techs. And if you ever talk to a Toyota tech, most of them will tell you the same thing...don't go 10,000 miles, stick between 4,000-5,5000 using a nice quality synthetic. My previous vehicle before my Silverado was a Lexus LS460, and I made the mistake of trying extended drains (as people were saying the 10,000 mile intervals applied to our cars too). Well, a few of us tried that on the forums...everything went great until we hit that higher mileage area of 120,000 miles. Then the oil consumption started...and got worse and worse. Ended up keeping mine until at 180,000 miles - at that point it was using around a quart every 1,000 miles - didn't try the piston soak, wish I had. Probably still have that car today, if I had.
    1 point
  25. How does this differ from a new coat of wax every 6 months? I'm still trying to learn what the advantages and disadvantages are of ceramic coating. What type of prep do you have to do before applying the ceramic coating?
    1 point
  26. Thank you to everyone that responded to my question. Seeing the picture made it very clear. This is why I come to this forum for answers as you guys always clear things up for me.
    1 point
  27. Mine in a 5.3L after 2 years and 14K miles is about the same... 16mpg. Too much idling / remote starts for me. And my “commute” is 2 miles on a stoplight, 30-45mph stretch of suburb road. I wish the computer would not include idling when the truck is in Park. My wife’s Honda doesn’t.
    1 point
  28. Wow Mike I'm hurt. It's the bat crap crazy people I don't listen to. You're not even mildly obnoxious. We've made such good progress with this motor that a replacement is not currently on the table. A few ounces between 2500 mile OCI's verses a quart per tankful is major progress. Almost perfect. Besides, it's still teaching me things that will be useful in her Verano. Same motor with but 14K on the clock and living on AMSOIL SS. Sort of a Guinea Pig. I don't consider it a failed experiment. It would be a failure if I failed to learn from it and learn I have. Don't trust mineral oil based Group III or III+ Full Synthetics in motors with low tension oil rings to go 5K OCI intervals and expect the rings not to collapse. Not even if the UOA shows you have 50% acid package left. I expect that would also be true of motors with 200 F + water thermostats or turbo motors. In a recent thread I was following a fella with a pre 2014 5.3 with collapsed rings just did the full TSB, deflector, valve cover etc. then did the same GM upper cylinder soak we did and his quit using oil as well. Those motors also have low tension oil rings. So that is two that have recovered collapsed ring sets at or near 100K miles in service. I believe he was a Mobil 1 guy. We used QSUD. Both Group III Full Synthetics. No new motor and no trades on the horizon. Thanks for dropping in!!
    1 point
  29. I've used 4 low a couple times now, mostly with extraction/recovery of other vehicles, and the ability to keep the tires from blowing away if I gave it too much gas was nice. It's kinda weird to hear the engine working hard and not have that "herky-jerky" throttle response, the 4 low made things much smoother. I would agree with the above statements though, 4 low isn't truly necessary and a single speed transfer case with a locking rear dif would be perfectly capable in 90% of what most people perceive to be off roading.
    1 point
  30. Yes, once folded the plastic just clamps onto the flange of the fender/wheel well. No metal or drilling required for holes D and E.
    1 point
  31. The slot in the cross rail is 15mm at the wide part, 10mm at the slot itself, and about 5mm deep. The Thule standard T-bolts will work, if you grind the head down to 15mm in one dimension (they are about 20mm square). Let me know if you need more detail. Good luck!
    1 point
  32. Silvy I went with Kryptonite. Lifetime warranty. $500 20,000 miles on my lift and these have been flawless. Grease every oil change. Those reklez are pretty trick though [emoji15] Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  33. Picked it up! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  34. Super easy..The hardest part is getting the damn pin out of the connector...They have you pull the grey wire (interior door lamps) from the BCU plug and splice this in, then run another line over to the PS foot well, with the ground going to the DS B pillar.. Tomorrow I'll see if I can get a pic of it.. The only thing I need to change (I highly recommend doing) is finding out where the BCU wire is that controls the lighting from the day/night sensor and tap into that instead, I say this because these light up during the day and they look pink, and that can't stay...
    1 point
  35. Edited photo from earlier today Also roller of friend's truck on the way there
    1 point
  36. Here’s mine since we’re on the topic. ‘21 TB LT 5.3L.
    1 point
  37. Trade and cash-buy offers are changing weekly right now. A lot of it depends on the residuals dealers are getting passed down to them, and a lot of that data changes with the rebates on NEW vehicles. It's all interconnected. I bought my 2019 RST 5.3L CC Z71 for $43K in March 2019 ($54K MSRP). Last KBB I did on it was $42K, and I think I could get close to that on trade, from what my buddy who owns a dealer told me. I have 15K miles. Bottom line is... trucks are depreciating very safely right now. If you got a good deal when you bought, you should be doing well.
    1 point
  38. Added OE painted door handles, (to match the mirror caps I put on shortly after I bought her). Tinted the front windows to match the back. Not sure when I was last on here but added the Ronin bullet antenna too! Also, ditched the GM Performance intake for an SLP intake. It's much nicer and unless I'm crazy, the truck does drive different. Never disconnected the battery and been on stock tune again for a while. Maybe just crazy!
    1 point
  39. There are two ''increased idle 'different functions. One is standard, the other is optional In addition, the ecm will also sometimes adjust idle for alternator charging, ac compressor, high engine temp or in regen to keep exhaust from cooling. (and there may be other reasons....) Elevated Idle is standard on all the dmax's since 2004.5 LLY. It needs to be enabled in settings, but then will automatically engage if the correct conditions are met. It drags the torque converter to create additional load, to warm the transmission as well as the coolant. Since it has automatic engage it is great during cold weather when the truck is started by remote. I find that elevated idle will result in the highest transmission temps my trucks will have doing rural daily driver chores in winter weather. Elevated Idle The engine has a cold temperature high idle feature which elevates the engine idle speed from base idle to 1050 to 1100 rpm when outside temperatures are below 0 °C (32 °F), and the engine coolant temperature is below 65 °C (150 °F). This feature enhances heater performance by raising the engine coolant temperature faster. To turn this feature on or off, see Vehicle Personalization [ Edit to add: My current truck will kick in elevated idle at temps higher than my previous ones. (an LLY and a LML). Despite the 32*F indicated in the manual I find this one will kick in at temps somewhere between 38F and 42F on the dash display] When the engine is started, it will slowly ramp up to the high idle speed after a delay of a few seconds up to approximately two minutes. For this method to work properly there must be no throttle or brake pedal faults. The engine idle speed will return to normal once the following conditions are met: . Engine coolant temperature reaches 65 °C (150 °F). . Air intake temperature reaches 0 °C (32 °F). The high idle speed will be temporarily interrupted and the engine speed will return to normal if any of the following conditions occur: . The brake pedal is applied. . The accelerator pedal is pressed. . The transmission is shifted out of P (Park) or N (Neutral). . Vehicle speed is detected. Once these inputs are removed, the engine idle speed will slowly ramp back up to high idle after the normal delay, if the conditions for engine coolant temperature and air intake temperature are still met. High Idle / Fast Idle The other one is optional, and is operated by the cruise buttons - as in the video above. Sometimes called High idle. Sometimes called Fast Idle. Primary use if to keep accessories (and PTO is equipped) drive running faster. Its'not intended create heat the way the elevated idle does. Fast Idle requires getting into the truck to activate. 2020 dmax manual calls it Fast Idle. Fast Idle Control If equipped, this system can be used to increase the engine idle speed. Fast Idle control will be enabled when the following conditions are met: . The parking brake is set. . The transmission is in P (Park) or N (Neutral). . The vehicle speed is about 0 km/h (0 mph). . The cruise control Set switch is pressed and released for Preset Fast Idle Speed (1200 rpm). Fast Idle control will be disabled when one or more of the following conditions occur: . The cruise control Set switch is pressed and released. See “Cruise Control” in the owner’s manual. . The cruise control Cancel switch is pressed. . The brake pedal is pressed. . The transmission is shifted out of P (Park) or N (Neutral). . The parking brake is released. . The vehicle speed is not 0 km/h (0 mph). Fast/High idle is slightly higher rpm than Elevated idle. I've alway assumed it was to aid in identifying why the truck was not at 'normal' idle. When the truck is in regen, it will idle at higher rpm than normal - but not as high as these two functions.
    1 point
  40. Some locations have pumps for both #1 and #2 diesel, so you can 'create' your own blend depending on temperatures expected where it is gong to be consumed. Other areas just change to a 'winter blend' suitable for where it is sold and don't offer the create your won option. There is an ASTM standard for 'premium diesel in the US. Dmax lists the standard number, supplement says it's not needed. I've never noticed it at a station. I have come across a fuel station that had separate pumps for dyed fuel -- of course with lots of 'off-highway use only' warning labels stuck all over it. All diesel manufactured/sold in the US and Canada is now ULSD, suitable for use in a Duramax. 'Off-road' diesel is also ulsd, because off-road diesels are also subject to the new emission rules (even though implementation was staggered). Off-road diesel is dyed red because it does not have the highway tax paid on it. Your DPF equipped and DEF using farm and construction equipment run dyed fuel without issue. Most states/provinces is is illegal to run dyed diesel in an on-road vehicle -- but t won't hurt the truck or emissions equipment. Some areas the tax revenue folks will dip tanks in search of dyed fuel.
    1 point
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