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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/27/2021 in all areas

  1. Today I got finished with the retractable tonneau cover and bed extender. Here are a few images of it. Apparently I cant only do one at a time so I guess Ill put up a couple of posts.
    2 points
  2. A part failing after 5 years is not a "fit-n-finish" issue. And dropping the brand because of it, well, you probably will run out of brands to buy from relatively soon...
    2 points
  3. Well, I guess you have a decision to make. Follow the oem manual recommendations; Or follow the recommendations of experts on this forum...
    2 points
  4. New to the forum, just brought home my 2018 Silverado LTZ Redline Edition. No stranger to modifying my vehicles and just ordered in a set of Morimoto XB Headlights as well as a Range AFM disabler. Trading in my 2018 Civic, big step up!
    2 points
  5. Wanted to post my research and share my decision on selecting larger tires on a Factory '21 AT4, 20" Wheels. There are a lot of threads on this topic, all with great content, but there are some conflicting posts on size choice/rubbing/mpg impact that can make the decision difficult. As others have noted not all tires measure the same height/width/weight, so a one-size fits all approach likely cannot be taken. **In case you don't want to read through all the details below, I went with BFG KO2 in a 275/65R20. No rubbing, plenty of UCA clearance, ~1MPG loss, speedometer is off between .5 to 1MPG depending on speed. ~1MPG loss does not reflect accounting for speedo variances. I will need to update this post with a manual calculation. I do think you could fit a slightly larger tire, depending on manufacturer choice (see below variations of sizing). Tire Size: Based on reading through other posts I narrowed my tire size to three options: 1. 275/65R20 2. 285/65R20 3. 295/60R20 I personally didn't want rubbing issues after tire install. Minor trimming (IE: mud flap trimming) wouldn't be a big deal, but having owned a truck that had rubbing issues, it gets old quick and I wanted to avoid modifications if possible. Pros/Cons of each tire size I contemplated: 275/65 - great tire size as you get 34" in height, but can appear to have a narrow stance depending on tire choice. Stock tire (Bridgestone Dueler A/T 275/60/20), width would remain the same as stock. Originally ranked 2nd of the 3 options. 285/65 - best of both worlds, gains in height and width. Ranked 1st of 3 options. Big concern around rubbing issues, especially at full lock on an incline. Likely could avoid by adding a levelling kit. Conflicting results on CV angles and longer-term impact of adding a level kit. 295/60 - prefer the stance of a 295, but didn't have a high level of confidence there would be clearance from the UCA. Rubbing concerns similar to 285/65. Tire Brand: 1. Falken Wildpeak AT3W 275/65 - 34.1" X 10.6", 66.1lbs 285/65 - 34.6" X 11.2", 67.7lbs 295/60 - 33.9" X 11.6", 69.4lbs 2. Toyo AT3 275/65 - 34.1" X 11", 54lbs 285/65 - Not Offered 295/60 - 33.9" X 11.8", 60lbs 3. BFG KO2 275/65 - 34" X 11", 57.3lbs 285/65 - 34.5" X 11.5", 60.3lbs 295/60 - 33.9" X 11.8", 68lbs **4. After decision came across Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T (some great reviews coming out on this tire). Pros/Cons of each tire size I contemplated: Falken - awesome tire with some fantastic reviews. Major consideration was the weight. Example: 275/65/20 weighs 66.1lbs Toyo AT3 = 54lbs BFG KO2 = 57.3lbs Toyo AT3 - I've had several sets of Toyo AT2's. Really like the upgrades made to the AT3, but wanted a slightly more aggressive sideway. I also found it very difficult to find inventory at the moment. BFG KO2 - tried and true, some question around if newer technology is surpassing. Obviously not enough of a concern as this was the tire of choice.
    1 point
  6. you could put just eibach spring to replace stock springs but you wont get 2".....only about 1'' bilsteins and other shocks have multiple clip positions so its adjustable but your ranchos only have 1 setting for the spring to sit on.... up to you and its our truck so whatever feel comfortable with, any shop can do the work......its very basic
    1 point
  7. i replaced all 4 of my shocks as how i got the lift.....you already have a lift gonna have to be spacer unless you replace shocks, just get UCA along with it, RC makes one am sure its fine and better than stock.......sure you may never have an issue but lots of them have broke already leveling TB/AT4.....better to be safe than sorry...... doesnt have to be a dealer doing install, its pretty straightforward...... watch this Aftermarket Upper Control Arms (UCAs) - Filthy Motorsports - Bing video
    1 point
  8. Good luck with the Ford, maybe they will let you install the "chips" needed yourself, rather than the dealer doing it for you. Should be a pretty reliable rig Report back when you hit 56000 trouble free miles....
    1 point
  9. That I knew. But thanks for making sure. They were just not in cause it was just for pictures. After that I covered it all back up and backed her into the garage for the night.
    1 point
  10. Great job! Remember, those straps on the bed extender are to be pushed into the tailgate latches when in use. They're a bear to get in but easy to remove just by pulling the tailgate handle.
    1 point
  11. 1: Sounds like 8 speed shudder. You can try your nearest GM dealer and have them do an 8 speed fluid swap using the Mobil 1 Synthetic LV HP ATF Blue Label fluid. That might take care of that. 2: Somewhat normal. If you don't run 91 or 93 in it, I would suggest switching to it. 6.2 runs the best and most correct on 93 octane. Could also be a failing motor mount but seems too low in the mileage for that. Being it was a fleet ran truck they were probably cheap and ran 87. There will be plenty on here that say 87 is fine, its not. 3: 100% normal. Dual stage pressure oil pump that allows for low pressure when demands are low and high pressures above 3500rpm. OP grabbed a 2020 Yukon which would still be AFM. DFM is in the 2021 new body.
    1 point
  12. Proper hitch set up is key. Weigh your truck without the trailer first. Weigh your truck with the weight distribution not engaged. Weigh your truck with the weight distribution engaged. Adjust hitch as needed. Read the directions, and know how to do this yourself, bring appropriate tools to make the adjustments. The dealer will not likely do this correctly. Drive like a sane person.
    1 point
  13. my dad calls those the good ole days does the same thing every time, predictable. you guys would freak if you saw all the different tables that affect spark and fueling in these ECMs. even humidity plays a factor! That's why some people swear these vehicles have multiple personalities - because it really will run different in the morning compared to the afternoon.
    1 point
  14. Yep - nailed it. All about valve events. For everyone else - read about Atkinson cycle. VVT in a single cam OHV setup (our engines) cannot independently control the exhaust valve events though - which is rumored to be a significant contributor to combustion chamber deposits. I digress though.
    1 point
  15. I agree with you, the Duramax engine is excellent and will run and run forever. The problem is all of the emissions junk they put on them which is the weak link (unless the truck went on a diet). The def heater, egr, nox sensors, dpf etc... will likely have issues before the engine will. I can repair a lot of these items after warranty is up but I'm getting older and not sure if I want to. Another big concern is having one of these items fail while 1,000 miles from home and finding someone to work on it. I'm still on the fence about whether to get a new gas or diesel truck. I loved my L5P.
    1 point
  16. Same here, I'll prolly do a transmission fluid change at 45k, but not a flush.
    1 point
  17. The first thing always was advancing the distributor. Pinging could be heard. Sometimes the starter dragging was an indicator of too much timing. My 454 impala had a ignition switch I added so after I was wheeling it over I turned on the spark to light it’s fire. I kept me from blowing the nose off the starter. There was a definite performance advantage.
    1 point
  18. Good to know they are durable. But caution on the boasting. We've had some pre war gas motors go a million and several post war Ford FE motors close to a million. 300 gas six, a million is baked into the cake. Early 225 Dodge sixes I don't think will wear out if there is oil in them Yes yes, I get your point but those gassers your talking about didn't LIVE at 5K plus day in and day out either. (that was the OP's concern, right) Neither did the motors I just mentioned. See my point? You could run a Duramax at peak torque rpm till the middle east runs out of oil before you break it.
    1 point
  19. The truck will be falling apart before the engine wears out, even with a gasser. Modern gas engines outlive their predecessors by hundreds of thousands of miles, it's not uncommon to see 500,000 6.0 gas engines and I suspect the new 6.6 will do the same. Heck we can get a new crate engine for less than injectors on a diesel which do wear out.
    1 point
  20. My wife’s car is 11 years old and still looks new. It’s out all day in Texas heat. Recently she scratched her bumper. While at the body shop she asked about waxing and buffing for protection. We figured a couple hundred bucks worth of detailing. They told her leave it alone. It’s obviously well protected. The most I do besides going through a car wash on a monthly plan 2-3 times a week is spray wax. My newest vehicle is 6 years old. All look like new. Even my two 20 year old vehicles.
    1 point
  21. Just had my VIN decoded: Baby was born 3/8/2015 so falls under TBS Bulletin No.: 19-NA-036 for oil usage (LV3 motors prior to 11/1/2015) and piston/ring replacement. Which of course it had never needed. But it does mean that it is indeed fitted with the troublesome low tension rings. Fun fact. That was a SUNDAY. As of today she is 6 years, 4 months, 2 weeks and 5 days old. 2,333 days or 62.57 miles per day. No matter what oil was used changed on 5K intervals. Break down for first 145K miles Miles used: Brand 5,000 AC Delco / Delco Filters 8,948 Mobil 1 / Mobil 1 filters 21,052 Quaker State UD / WIX-NAPA filters 75,000 Red Line HP / Purolator Pure One filters 35,000 AMSOIL SS / Purolator Pure One filters 145,000 total miles AMSOIL and Red Line high detergent oils account for 76% of the miles. Over half on Red Line alone. High detergent oils and short OCI's keep rings happy campers. Back on Red Line HP. I think we are done experimenting. At least until Phillips plays with the formula or I get more comfortable with MPT 30K. IF I ever was forced to go back to one of the first three oils listed my OCI would be 2,500 miles.
    1 point
  22. Being a fan of Brit Singles and Harley Davidson motorcycles my hair was standing on end when I bought my first Honda CB750 K6. I'd never ridden anything that would spin 4500 rpm all day every day year after year. Felt...well...unnatural. But I'd never ridden anything with a 2.5" stroke either. I still prefer rolling along at something under 2K. No one is ever going to get the service life out of a 6.6 gasser spinning 4K all the time they would from a 6.6 LP5 Duramax lugging along at 1600 rpm. But for what you are doing
    1 point
  23. All good. It IS complicated and simple IS better. But complicated can work and work well. I have this 'thing' for 40's and 50's Brit singles. Big one lung British motorcycles. Up to a few years ago Royal Enfield still made the Bullet 350 and 500 cc types. Awesome machines that put smiles on faces just starting them. Thing is you can't treat them like a 2020 Honda. Stone axe simple machines anyone can work on. To an Enfield lover the Honda is 'overly complicated' and yet it IS one of the most reliable machines ever to be built. They will both have their followers just like Ford VS Chevy. They just need to be treated for what they are. Simple. Right?
    1 point
  24. My 1962 Impala SS with 327 V8 has 103000 miles and 59 years old. It has never had an engine failure of any kind. Why can't GM build cars like that anymore?
    1 point
  25. Any claims about an L86 being incompatible with 87 octane fuel is nothing but rhetoric and hearsay. I've data logged A LOT and tried many different octanes and timing advance curves. My educated opinion is that it can, and will, run just fine on it. You won't bust a ring or piston if your sensors are working. That's what knock sensors are for. The stock sensor calibration is VERY sensitive. Fill with 87, the knock sensor will immediately start pulling timing if it's over 3* of knock. The spark tables will oscillate between the low and high octane tables at any given rpm/load and extrapolate according to detected knock. In the summer on 87 octane in top gear rolling down the highway you'll probably be running single digit advance on slight grades. Does the 6.2 have the torque to not care? Yep. Is it the best running setup? Nope. Will it spontaneously explode because of it? Nope. Mine hasn't anyways. I almost exclusively run 87 or some concentration of ethanol up to e80. 89 or 93 just isn't cost effective for me. Alright, off my soap box. And I mean no disrespect @swathdiver. Like others have said, oil pressure is fine. I run 5W-30 since that's the same weight my wife's turbo SUV calls for so I just buy oil in bulk. I've noticed I get quite a bit more pressure compared to 0w-20. I also burn less throughout a 5k mile OCI. I've never liked the way my truck idles. Bumping the RPM can help quite a bit. I'm at 625 right now and it's pretty good. Mostly, though, these torque-based ECMs are finicky. They want expected airflow to equal actual airflow. When there's a disconnect - they start acting weird. For example, let's say because of sensor degradation and your combination of air filter, exhaust flow, etc.. you're making more torque at idle than it's expecting. It will pull timing (torque management advance is the PID) to reduce torque to the "expected" amount. but then it will make too little torque, so it adds advance, and then pulls it again. Just watch your timing advance. it's not the like old days with distributors - it will jump around a lot. The closer reality is to expected, the smoother it will be. This goes for all the quirkiness of my truck. I've been able to make it run significantly smoother (and peppier) with a lot of datalogging and tuning. trial and error. and it's taken over a year and still not perfect.
    1 point
  26. Expectations: Gets me to work and back - Check Efficient errand runner and dump runs - Check Up to six people (5 comfortably) and luggage/bikes for family vacation - check Handles camp site and fire roads - check Never had dreams of wheelin the wheels off. Just wanted a comfortable ride that can handle family duty. Honestly, with the tonneau, I kinda think of it as a big comfortable sedan that has 4wd and a huge-ass trunk.
    1 point
  27. Just joined the forum and stumbled upon this thread. I haven't see any post with full length nerf bars. Let me say that the rear bracket is a huge PIA to install if you have the well liners. So far I have loved these steps especially the third step to get items out of the bed. It makes me wonder why you don't see this style very often. If there is a critical reason not to have steps that tie into the bed please let me know.
    1 point
  28. eBay generic at 179 free shipping. I like the OE look and at 6 inches wide they stick out far enough to hopefully prevent any door dings.
    1 point
  29. Installed my wideband O2 sensor last week. Got the MAF curve tuned nicely. Now to jump deeper into the rabbit hole of tuning.
    1 point
  30. 2021 AT4 3.0L w/ snugtop rebel cab high with Winddoors and screens and remote rear lock. Stoked with it so far. Registers the truck as not a commercial vehicle in CA which is a benefit of the cap… also been Building out the back for the occasional camping/ surf days. Gotta make a cabinet to the right, and finish the bed system for basically a queen size bed.
    1 point
  31. Statement, or a request for help to fix it?
    1 point
  32. Simply, yes. That's exactly how my BFG KO2s are mounted.
    1 point
  33. Installed a ConsoleVault plus Bilstein and VanTrue N4 dash cam update.
    1 point
  34. I had my Billstein 5100s installed today, (i" extra lift front and back, and realignment) seems great, so far. I've got to catch up on a promised vid about the VanTrue 3 channel dash cam install and I'll add the Billsteins in, as well, this weekend. Sorry for the delay ...
    1 point
  35. Ok, i would say have custom rims made for your truck then, probably cheaper and you get what you want. if you don't want to that route; For the rear, you would need to purchase a HD axle housing, shorten it, then buy compatible axels (probably custom made). Probably have the driveshaft rear u-joint updated to fit properly. Possibly just have custom axles made to fit your existing housing(cheaper route). For the front, hopefully it would be easy enough to by the HD knuckles / bearing assemblies, and having custom CV axles make to fit the new front splines and the old front diff. hope this helps.
    1 point
  36. Just got this 2021 High Country with the 3.0 Duramax. Only have 400 miles on it but I’m loving it so far. I took advantage of this crazy used car market and traded in my 2014 LTZ with 84k on the 5.3. Already put the Rev hard tonneau cover on and got the windows tinted. (Tint was done late yesterday so no pics yet.) Excited to learn more about this platform.
    1 point
  37. 2021 SLT Sierra Premium Plus Had mine for a week now. Fully tinted, running boards removed, color matched fender trim added. Ronin antenna ordered, and plan on leveling kit with 22” GM wheels and 33” Toyo AT tires
    1 point
  38. Picked this up at the beginning of the month. Dealer has no idea how it was built, as it has features that they haven't been able to order for months.
    1 point
  39. Installed chrome caps on the front gill today:
    1 point
  40. Got tired of the wrapped bowties so I painted them.
    1 point
  41. Washed and waxed. Got HP Tuners and unlocked the engine. Disabled AFM. Need to tune air/fuel now, my LTFT is 14% rich on average.
    1 point
  42. I absolutely adore this truck. One of the nicest looking vehicles I've owned. But I will say, coming from years of headache free and reliable car ownership (owned nothing but Hondas before buying this truck), I simply will not accept major engine/transmission issues from a truck this new and this expensive! Fingers crossed I never have to deal with it, but if it ever has to go in for major warranty work, will most likely have the repairs made and then get rid of it for a...gulp...Tundra.
    1 point
  43. There are three volume settings. One for radio and audio inputs, one for the navigation (if equipped), and one for the phone. Next time you are on your phone via your truck or on nav, turn the volume knob. You will see it's separate. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727A using Tapatalk
    1 point
  44. Yeah, I hate dealing with the dealership also. They are just a pain, last time they left grease & grim all over the truck, changed my oil without my asking, I had just changed it the day before and told them I didn’t want anything but the tire rotation & balance. But they did it anyway, and they take forever. Just hate going to dealership. ?
    1 point
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