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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/14/2021 in all areas

  1. Still would need AWD for sure. 600+ HP in a 2WD truck that weighs nothing in the back would be completely worthless. Even the normal 6.2 is basically worthless if you just leave it in 2WD. The big appeal to these trucks is the traction. On the street you can take down some fairly quick cars. At least up to 60. After that you can’t really fight physics. Or that speeding ticket.
    2 points
  2. Mate. A fully loaded Raptor is around 83k now. This is 3rd Gen. and no way in hell will you find a dealer right who will give you a great deal on Raptor. I also don’t get why the ZR2 can’t be the AT4X direct cousin? Especially seeing how the ZR2 could also be based off the LTZ. Both have great offroad chops but will look different. There are some people out there who won’t drive a Chevy but think the GMC is superior brand. I do see the AT4X will get same Goodyear tires as the ZR2
    2 points
  3. Why hinder it to a single cab?? Why not offer both. A single and a crew. I want a crew cab SS truck because I have my wife and 2 kids along with a 90lb pound shepherd that I take to our lake house pulling our boat. Would love to have that! GM has all the goodies right there in house that have been used on other vehicles. Grab ahold of the parts bin and have at it. No reason they shouldn’t take hold of this market share when no one else is In it right now.
    2 points
  4. I'll take the updates as they are offered. You can trade yours on something else.
    2 points
  5. Yeah, it came in last month. Well worth the 4 month wait. It’s ridiculous and way quicker than anything this size deserves to be. Nothing stopping GM from doing the same except their leadership. CEO and half the people in that video are women. They don’t understand that we men are dumb and need high horsepower in everything for no good reason.
    2 points
  6. Pens don't fit in them; cell phones flop around in them; nobody carries coins anymore... What do you guys use your hashbrown holders for?
    1 point
  7. Wasn't that what the OP wanted?
    1 point
  8. I Use it to hold my wallet to pull out a credit card for the places that don't use Apple Pay. That's about it. I used to use it for my business cards until I got an under-jump seat lock box to store my cash in. Had to put the business cards into the console so they wouldn't fall out when I accessed the lock box to pay my yard guy or my car wash guy. BTW, there is a great pen holder under the lid of the console.
    1 point
  9. Yes. It only shows the truck and the semi-circle warning when you are close to something. I get the warning in the DIC about 2m, 6 feet, from the object.
    1 point
  10. If GM drops a ZR1 or ZL1 motor or some other supercharged hero in a truck, I'd rather it be in a regular cab short bed 2wd! I've got a Jeep for playing in the dirt, I want a stoplight screamer! Make SS mean something again!
    1 point
  11. Where are you filling up? I have never seen .75-1.00/gal difference that I can remember... I’m filling up at Costco now, .30-.35/gal difference, so ~$7/gal per fillup. Yes, other places are 0.40-0.50/gal more. On a different note, folks can think & do/run whatever they want, but this motor needs premium to run to it’s published specs, etc. Can programming, knock sensors, etc, compensate? Yes, but you won’t get the same performance. If driven mildly yes you may get the same mileage, but not when you push/work it. Ford’s ecoboost is the same - manual says run a minimum of 87 but the goes on to say for best performance and to meet published specs to run premium. More and more vehicle are going towards premium due to CAFE and emissions standards. There is a push to have all new vehicles run premium (or even higher octane than current premium) - engines designed to run premium get better gas mileage, and thats why it’s being discussed (by manufacturers, fuels producers, .gov, etc).
    1 point
  12. National average is now up to 60 cents difference between regular and premium. A 20 gallon fill up will net $12 extra dollars. But if you get better mileage while on premium it almost becomes a moot point. 1 mpg is about 7% better mileage. Premium costs 18% more. So really it’s only ~$7 a fill up for premium gas and better performance. If you can’t afford an extra $7 per fill up, maybe you shouldn’t have gotten the 6.L? . That’s my opinion anyway.
    1 point
  13. GM websites have the ZR2 slotted between the LTZ and High Country on their list of models. So that likely means the MSRP will be around where a more loaded LTZ prices, or just below where a base High Country starts.
    1 point
  14. oh wow I had no idea ... I'll have to look closer at laptop requirements and I assume an ODB port -to- USB ... thanks!
    1 point
  15. I also tried pushing the pedal to the floor twice. I pushed it until it stopped and then held it there for about 5 seconds. Let it up on it's own then did it again. The brakes are significantly better. They feel so much better. Thanks for sharing the idea TheElementalCashew!!
    1 point
  16. Every truck I owned except the one I have now had a premium tune, exhaust and CAI or drop in. It could have been slower because of it. It shifted firmer, rev higher and sounded good to me. I believe premium fuel is about 20$ per tank higher than regular fuel now. Since I retired and have to buy my own fuel. I don’t buy vehicles that requires it. Taking my trips that would be 240$ round trip minimum. To cruise at 72 mph. Of course I use a CRV for trips 25$ fills it up. So it’s all a mute point.
    1 point
  17. But yet people are on this site claiming left and right that CAI and exhaust give them huge bumps in power and mileage? LOL! I just don't get it. You either want the power or you don't. Why spend the $2500 on a $55K+ truck but then try to save $5 at the pump each fill up? That makes no sense at all.
    1 point
  18. I found the partnumber. It's 11588713 Thank you all for your help I'm not a huge fan of anti-seize. Especially the ones with metallic parts (like copper anti-seize) because they often lead to corrosion due to electrochemical corrosion when in use with different metals. And yes, if it would be my old daily driver beater car, then I would do it like this. But with my truck, I want to keep everything in good shape.
    1 point
  19. I have wondered whether the fact that GM has been short processors if they have lowered their acceptance standards for ECU chips. A substandard chip would be slower than expected. Modern chips are really faster than we are at tripping switches. The designers probably assume this. Assuming you are correct that the ECU is loosing the relay race, it should be easy for GM to add logic to wait for all required automatic actions to complete before starting the cranking. Also, they should shorten the cranking to something like 4 seconds instead of 20 or 30 as it is now. About half the time I hit the button before remembering to step on the brake. So, I have been pretty much following you method. I've have had only one long start. Hope some other folks with frequent long starts will try your method and report if they still have long starts.
    1 point
  20. I love my 6.2L 10 spd combo. I average right about 19 mpgs. Might get better but love driving it and hearing the Corsa Exhaust and S&B CAI. So I probably could get better mileage. Always run premium in it, because that's what makes the 6.2L have its full power, otherwise why buy it if your not going to take advantage of the full power?? just my opinion.. It's time for GM to step up their game and offer more power. 8 years with the same power output is ridiculous. Come on GM, stop being lazy!
    1 point
  21. Okay I read the link. It is carefully worded. Very carefully worded. You used the word (CAN"T) be jumped. I'm not being nit picky here but rather precise. It certainly can be. Is there a risk? Yep. How big? In his own words: How serious is the risk when neither engine is running? I admit, it’s pretty low if the dead battery is just slightly discharged but still above the 9.6-volt threshold, but it’s not zero. Post is littered with the words "maybe", "might", "could", "is possible" The thing that creates doubt for me is two fold. 1.) GM still prints jumping instructions in the manual. (They are on the hook for the damage during the warranty) 2.) He goes straight to the sale of a jumper pack This follows basic marketing strategies: Create a fear/doubt Create a solution Create a profit I like jumper pack's. Own one. They are convenient, small, easy to manage and don't require a circumstance of a passer by being handy. If you read the manual and follow it you will note that there is a method of assuring this voltage spiking does not happen.
    1 point
  22. https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/chevrolet/silverado-1500/2020-chevrolet-silverado-owners-manual.pdf Instructions for jump starting 2020 Silverado page 415.
    1 point
  23. Technically I should be able to but haven't had to yet. Per the website it says "Holds up to 300 pounds of evenly distributed weight " https://gatorcovers.com/p/gator-efx-hard-fold-tonneau-cover/v/chevy/silverado-1500/2021/
    1 point
  24. And that’s exactly what the OP was trying to achieve with an upgrade.
    1 point
  25. There is a product to fix this, I have it on my truck. https://tailgatefix.com/product/load-stop-lock/
    1 point
  26. It's a mistake to think the only thing the TRX and Raptor are good at is desert racing. Plenty of videos showing the Raptor can perform in Moab, even with the torsion limited slip front end, though any full size pickup is kneecapped by its width, wheelbase and angles compared to other non-pickup options. The ZR2 and Raptor have basically the same approach/departure/breakover angles but the Raptor has 1" more ground clearance, 4-5" more wheel travel, 3" more sidewall to air down, and significantly more articulation than the new ZR2 will have, those are significant advantages off road at any speed. The only advantage the ZR2 brings is a front locker verus a torsen limited slip, and 3" less width, and of course not being a Ford. The Raptor also only gives up 40 lbs of payload and 700 lbs towing capacity to the ZR2. If you want towing neither the ZR2 or the Raptor will be a good answer compared to other 1/2 ton options. Not to mention the rear linkage and coil spring setup of the Raptor is better both on and off road, between that and the electronic shock control it's greatly improved it's on road manners for a truck with 15" of wheel travel and articulation that should be even greater than the TRX this year, and the TRX articulation is almost twice what the current AT4 is. Articulation is huge off road on tough trails, it doesn't matter if you can make all 4 wheels spin, if only 3 are on the ground. That said front and rear electronic lockers are a huge upgrade off-road compared to what GM has been offering. Anyone that's ever limped a G80 up a slippery off camber trail spinning wheels to engage the locker finds out quickly. I was surprised they didn't do something to protect the rear bumper like the Colorado aside just tucking the exhaust up a bit. I do agree, the ZR2 fills a gap of still offering significant improvement of off-road prowess than the TB/AT4 (Let's face it the TB/AT4 is just an appearance package) and likely still being cheaper by a good amount than the Raptor, the GMC is going to have a harder time with that. Lets not forget the things you probably still can't get in a ZR2 that aren't off-road you can in a Raptor, including a 36 gal tank, 2000 watt inverter setup, moonroof, hand free driving, adaptive headlights, aux switches wired in, beadlock capable wheels, The AT4-x will be the most interesting to see what it offers. There was a lot of whining last year that the Denali trim was not really "top of the line" anymore with the AT4 and it sounds like only the Denali will get the supercruise. My guess is GM is going to do more to set the Denali apart as the premier trim. I'd echo again I'm most interested in the AT4-X price, it's going to be a lot harder to keep a significant price delta with the Raptor with the AT4-x than it is the ZR2. From what I see about the only feature the ZR2 doesn't offer that the 21' AT4 does is ventilated seats and a HUD. So I'm curious to see what else they add to the GMC to set it apart and justify the big price gap, or if the water down that difference between the two brands to try and keep a price gap to the Raptor.
    1 point
  27. Dropped off my truck at the dealer for the shim. Got a call from a lemon law attorney I have used in the past while i was waiting for a rental. Guess it wasn't meant to be, signed all the paperwork and got the process started.
    1 point
  28. He'd have to tune for the gear change, so it becomes less cheap.
    1 point
  29. That is also a great idea. It will wake it up some for sure.
    1 point
  30. From what I understand the 22 trucks have the nightmarish new Tahoe/Suburban electronics. No tuning apparently. Inside looks great, outside the chrome trucks look better than the 19-21, but kinda like the no chromed 19-21 versions. But still don't like the overall look of the outside of the T1 trucks. The ZR2 doesn't look like anything more than a trim upgrade and shocks. The wheels look too tucked in, not nearly as an aggressive look as a Raptor or TRX, not that it has the power as the others, but could at least make an aggressive looking package. Is there any difference between a Trailboss and a ZR2 besides the shocks and looks. It's also my opinion that the reason so many Trailboss's sold is because of it's looks. The 19-21 chrome front ends are terrible, in my opinion. I would have got a Trailboss just for the looks, or an RST of course. I can't imagine the laughs the TRX will get when Motor Trend or who ever compares the TRX, Raptor and the ZR2.
    1 point
  31. Finally got the camera calibrated. Instead of increasing the distance from the center of the ball to the trailer wall, I had to decrease it by 12 inches. Thank you for your assistance. I didn't know where to start, so you pointed me in the right direction. Most appreciated.
    1 point
  32. Yep, drive according to conditions, properly adjust your weight distribution and sway controls properly load trailer, etc. No problems at all. If I wanted to go faster, more often, cross country, or more carelessly, a bigger truck might be justified.
    1 point
  33. HELLO GENTLEMAN'S, I WAS HAVING THIS SAME PROBLEM AND I BELIEVE I FOUND THE ISSUE AN A POSSIBLE INTERIM SOLUTION. WHEN THE START SWITCH PUSH BOTTOM IS SELECTED, THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT FOR THE ELECTRICAL STARTER WILL BE INITIATE FASTER THAN THE TIME THAT IT TAKES FOR THE COMPUTER TO BOOT UP TO AND TAKE CONTROL OF THE STARTING SEQUENCES, HOW DO I KNOW THAT!! BECAUSE IF YOU PUSH THE START BUTTON FIRST WITHOUT PUSHING THE BRAKE PEDAL, WAIT FOR 2 SECOND AND THEN PUSH THE PEDAL AND THE START BUTTON IT WILL WORK EVERY TIME. I HOPE THIS HELP. I WAS HAVING THIS PROBLEM CONSTANTLY ALMOST EVERY DAY, AND FOR THE LAST 4 MONTHS I HAVEN'T HAD ANY ISSUES. GM MUST FIX THIS ISSUE.
    1 point
  34. I made an order for a ‘21 suburban back in March. My dealer just let me know GM has assigned my production week, and they bumped the order up to a ‘22 model. Should be ready mid-October.
    1 point
  35. Nobody. Prepare to get next to nothing off of sticker because demand and now the 3.0 is out of production for the rest of the year due to parts shortages.
    1 point
  36. I too installed the CURT Tailgate Hitch Solution. Plugs into the existing harness, no splicing wires, clean look, and works great so far.
    1 point
  37. Installed the Curt solution last week and it works as designed. Same principle as the "Tailgatefix" solution. https://www.curtmfg.com/tailgate-sensor
    1 point
  38. I installed the Tailgatefix hitch lockout switch last month. Works as advertised. Hopefully it proves to be durable.
    1 point
  39. I don't own either of these products but if you look up TailGateFix.com you'll find they make both a load stop lock to keep the step up and a split gate override to prevent being able to drop the second gate into a hitch.
    1 point
  40. lol. so many times that has happened to me, and at stoplights......almost tagged a few peeps b4 i caught that i was moving
    1 point
  41. A bit more pictures you want to take off the 2 right (passenger) side caps, a little plastic pry tool makes easy work of this. Once you take these off, you will see the area behind it. When I drilled/filed the hole I needed, it was not viewable when these black caps are off. Mounting points for the cameras and wires are in the way. You won’t hit it when you drill and file. I took off the big plastic piece on the main part of the inner tailgate. I attached the added wire to the existing wire loom. For multipro tailgates, leave enough slack after this hinge. It is needed to make sure you do not pull the wire apart. With the big plastic piece off, it’s easy to fish the wire through this hole in the center and middle of the bottom of the tail gate. From under the truck, locate the wire loom going up to the passenger tail light. There is only one. And then follow that loom back to the center of the rear bumper. The wire loom will lead back to this center distribution block, or plugs. The black one is the one you want. I used the Black and Brown wires as you see it out of the wire loom.
    1 point
  42. How I put the front emblem on the back of my truck. -First, you have to remove the 3 piece emblem. I heated up the emblem with a heat gun. I eventually pried off the emblems and left some of the double sided tape adhesive on the truck. There are many detailed methods over the internet on how to remove the emblems on a factory vehicle. - Next, I needed to clean up the adhesive. For this I used an adhesive rubber wheel with the drill attachement. Not my go to but I was trying to hurry up before my wife asked me to bring her lunch at work. The adhesive wheel left some rubber due to heat buildup. I used a polisher and some compound to clean it up proper. - Now you have the clean slate to work with. I put tape down as my next step was to find center on the tailgate. The highest strip of tape was used to keep the line of the factory emblems, I later adjusted this as it seemed it was off - Now for me, this was the most difficult step. I took my pliers to the clips on the back of this $300 emblem. Just grab and twist, they come off almost flat. I followed it up with a grinder and flap wheel to make sure it laid flat. - From here, I laid more tape down to cover the surface area of the emblem. The toughest part of this is trying to line the emblem up close to level. I spent time on this as I believe it is the make or break part of the process. Once I had it where I thought it was good, I pressed down on the emblem so that the plug in the back of the emblem would indent the tape. The emblem should be parallel to the tailgate when looking from above, down. - If you pressed hard enough, you will see the outline of the plug in the tape. Weirdly enough, this next step was less stressful then popping clips off an emblem. I drilled a .5 inch hole in the tail gate in the center of the indentation. This is not enough and I inked in the rest of the outline and filed smaller holes to the corners. I did raise the emblem up toward the handle (?) due to it being the multi pro and there is a crease on the inside that may cause an issue if you keep factory placement. It’s moved up about .5 -.75 inch from factory placement. I did not want to chance it. - From here, I took a small triangular file and took the time to file the eventual square flat all around. This step took me about 30 minutes. I had a die grinder, but could not find my bit. It could have taken 5 minutes if that... Above is the measurements I took. - I kept test fitting the emblem, turns out I had to open it up more to account for the base of the plug on the emblem. I would venture to guess 13/16 or 7/8s. - After I got enough after multiple test fits, I was happy with it. The hole will be covered up with the emblem. - I pulled all the tape off except the highest one so I could know my center line. With both the emblem and tail gate prepped.. I found the emblem has more of a curve then the tailgate. The curve looked real similar before I ventured to do this. Nothing a quick press in the middle wouldn’t take care of. - Next I loaded the emblem with 3M double sided tape. Turns out, that it is actually difficult to peel the backing off to actually mount the emblem. Luckily it’s curve helped me only tack the sides on while I measured center, up/down and left to right. Boom... mounted.. - I cut the end of the pig tail that comes with the emblem. Plugged it in, and ran wire through the tailgate to the wiring harness of the passenger side tail light. I actually took the tail light off but realized there is another plug point by the spare tire. That’s where I wired in the emblem to come on with the lights like the front does. Forgive my spelling errors, did this from my phone. As much as I tried to take pictures, once I got into the mode, all that went out the window.
    1 point
  43. I run 93 too to get the best performance -to me it would be like having someone give me a super model and saying we recommend real nice clothes, but you can get her stuff at Walmart if you want. Thanks for clearing it up though, I thought that it was required too!
    1 point
  44. I have the 6.2, but had the 5.3 for a week as a loaner. I drove them both under same conditions. The 5.3 is good. I was surprised and it was a very good engine. Adequate power that I never thought was really lacking in normal driving. I'd say for most people its fine and you wont regret it. The 6.2 is better. The power difference to me is pretty noticeable, I drive on a lot of one lane country roads and have to pass people frequently and the 6.2 goes from 70 to 100 very quickly and doesn't feel like it's even trying. It's faster off the line also if you have a heavy foot. This engine works better for me because of how I drive and and where I drive. I could get by fine with the 5.3, but the 6.2 just feels better to me and I like the effortless passing and never having to worry about power. The mpg difference isn't that bad, was probably only 2mpg difference when I was using it. I have a heavy foot and get around 18-18.5 with the 6.2 in mixed driving, low to mid twenties on the highway. The guy voicing his OPINION that 99% of people with the 6.2 are just trying to justify their purchase is full of it. When you are looking at the trucks that will have the 6.2 as an option you are already spending a lot of money, upgrading generally wont be breaking the bank for most people. If the slight increase in gas you'll pay for premium is that much of a factor, then, yes, go for the 5.3. I highly doubt many people with the 6.2 regret their purchase. For me, the powertrain is probably my favorite part of the vehicle. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  45. You appear to be one of those people that enjoys talking down to every option that isn't what you have. Nice. 1) a "chipped" 5.3 in 2018 alone gets you 385/413 HP/tq vs the stock 6.2 420/460 HP/tq. So that statement is wrong. Can you modify a 5.3 to make more power? Sure? But you can modify a 6.2 and make more power just as easily. Dumbest comment I've read on this forum... 2) while I don't particularly understand the Babymax option, some people prefer a diesel engine that gets better gas mileage and makes better low end torque. Why are you saying everyone who buys an AT4 or a 6.2 or a Babymax is an idiot and should've just bought a 5.3 and "chipped it". We get it, you've got small man syndrome for apparently every option or trim that's more expensive than yours, so everyone that spent more is "having to validate their purchase". It sounds more like you're trying to validate yours by talking down to everyone else and saying everyone else is stupid for buying the 6.2 or 3.0 or the at4. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  46. It's a personal preference but I disagree that it's a gimmick. If you have one and use your truck like a truck it's a REALLY cool and useful feature. You don't realise it until you've had the opportunity to use it in real life activities. I think the overall design and operability is a fantastic improvement on the "old" traditional tailgate. Also, if you think it's a gimmick and don't want it it's a no cost option to spec out the truck with a traditional gate. Your comment is similar to the comments made back when they added electric start to vehicles instead of a hand crank. Cranky old men would sit in their rockers on the porch and gripe wondering what they will do when this new fangled electric start thing leaves them stranded. They'd say screw that, just sell me one with a hand crank and then yell at you to, "GET THE HELL OFF MY GRASS"!!! Rick P.S. I've a number of friends who bought a GMC instead of a Chevy just to get the new tailgate and they don't regret it even after driving Chevy's their their entire life.
    1 point
  47. 2018 Silverado, Reverse back to drive, radio either on serius xm or reg starts jumping back and forth to menu items and the speedometer goes to same menu items. after a while it stops and no more problems, just when backing out and going forward. drinving me crazy. maybe need an update or something. only have 26,000 miles on vehicle.
    0 points
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