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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/05/2021 in all areas

  1. I have not seen any reviews other than one youtube video of a 2019 Silverado getting this kit. I ordered it for $799 and it comes with up to 4" lift struts, shocks, diff drop and upper control arms. While I was waiting for the lift kit to be made and shipped I ordered everything I could so while I had it all apart, everything would be new. It took them 2 months to get me the kit but I think they were dealing with the same shortages of supplies as everyone else. I received the kit and it came with everything needed and no missing pieces. It took me 18 hours of lying on my concrete garage floor doing it all myself. (used new 6 ton jack stands and my 3 ton jack to be safe) I replaced the following items while doing this kit: Lower Ball joints (Moog for Aluminum arm) Sway bar links Torsion bar mounts Tie rod ends Rotors Caliper slide pins Ceramic brake pads I dreaded doing the strut springs but with the proper compressor tools I bought it was easy. The much stronger compressor kit was safer and easy. You can choose to use all 4 rings on the strut for 4" of lift or fewer and drop .5" each ring. The diff drop was not really hard. The instructions say to loosen the 4 bolts and replace one at a time. You cant due to the flange around the frame where the spacer goes. You have to remove both front bolts and loosen the back ones in order to lower the diff far enough to get the spacer in past the flange then tighten up the front and move to the rear ones. The lift was 1/4" taller in the front when it was all done. However I had a bad camber where the tires were on their edge and not flat. Once the alignment was done and the tires square on the ground it is perfectly level. Within 1/16 of an inch! With everything new under the truck I was shocked at how much better it drove. Stiff, firm but still smooth. I never realized how sloppy it had become. 190K miles on this thing. It had a 1.5" level spacer since 70K. The balls joint really were not bad considering having that many miles with a level. Anyway, the ride height is exactly what I wanted. Tires are Toyo Open Country 305/55R20 R/T Hybrids. Anyone looking to get a complete kit for a great price, I am very happy with this setup. I wanted Bilstein all around but getting the struts and shocks included in this kit was worth the price. Thoughts???
    2 points
  2. I installed some firestone helper bags in the rear of my Silverado approximately 500miles ago. (For clarification sake, its a 2015 crew cab 6.5ft 4x4 5.3l config.) Just thought I should post up what I thought about them so far. So far they have been nothing extraordinary, by that I mean they haven't hindered the vehicle in anyway driving regularly unloaded. Instructions say to keep at minimum 5psi in them at all times, and at this pressure I think they may even add to the in town ride quality, whereas on the hwy its just the slightest tad more firm. Rear of the truck seems more stable and planted, but not in a huge way just a subtle nod on the better side. The kit makes absolutely zero noise or squeaks which is honestly what I was most worried about for day to day driving. Kit went in, parked on my gravel driveway and only took about 1.5hrs. I don't have any info yet on loaded ride quality but soon time will tell. I'll throw in a pic on the kit on the truck, please shield your eyes from the Wisconsin weight reduction beginning to take place. All in all, very pleased with the kit, glad they even included a heat shield for the driver side bag. My coworker swears by these bags over the airlift brand ones. Hopefully a compressor/controller kit and a gauge next.
    2 points
  3. The 6-speeds were fine until they put them in your K2s. GM added a thermostat which keeps the trans temps up at 195 all the time, which makes Uncle Sam happy but kills these transmissions by 100K miles. When you get yours back, "flip the pill". They easily run 300K miles with regular servicing under the severe service maintenance schedule. Some have gone to 400K+.
    2 points
  4. Bought my truck brand new with 5 miles on it. I mentioned it to the dealer when I test drove it. He told me they "all do it". 26k miles later and it stills does it, but I'm not worried about it because if it was something to worry about, it should have gotten worse over the miles and it hasn't changed a bit. I live in California, so 91 octane is all we get. may give the Amsoil stuff a try and see how it goes.
    2 points
  5. Got some decent photos of my TB after getting the SST installed as well as new rims and tires. Absolutely love this truck!
    1 point
  6. Never mind I found it. right under the glove box take the lower dash panel off four 7mm screws. very easy to get to ,(2) t15 torx bit screws. 15 minute job.
    1 point
  7. Yes , we know this mate . time and time again you have shoved it down our throat. thanks again
    1 point
  8. 1.5" aluminum spacer from e-bay. Stock 265/70/17 Bridgestone dueler A/T tires.
    1 point
  9. I just upgraded from my 2003 Chevy, rust like you, I got into a 2015 Silverado 5.3 4x4 60k mi blah blah, holy cow man you don't know what your missing. As for the year, I avoided 2014 for first run issues and stuck with 2015 for the 6speed mainly, and the looks over the 16-18s. I live in Wisconsin and the rust on the rockers I've already seen other trucks with bubbles forming. Fluid film and cavity wax is your friend here and hopefully with annual applications I can keep up with it. Frame wax on mine is just about gone on the larger flat surfaces under the bed. Hopefully I can get it completely stripped and painted sooner than later, but I have no doubt you wont regret getting into a newer truck. Fuel mileage is nothing great but way better than my 2003!
    1 point
  10. I ordered a 2022 Silverado 2500HD Custom on August 15th. I selected essentially every package that is available on the Custom. It was built the week of September 27th and was delivered October 4th.
    1 point
  11. A ha, that is it, that explains everything, the source of all your angles and views on vehicle topics... "I had one tested it on and off with no noticeable changes at 72 mph" This is just funny, so many 3rd party tests (not GM self tests like Amsoil is used to producing) have shown that to be not true. What did it show at 71 mph or 65 mph? Not sure how you got it to be the same, as an amsoil dealer I bet there are ways it can be accomplished through slight of hand manipulation. That is like the guys who say the air dam has no fuel savings yet countless third party/independent tests as well as just common sense science shows otherwise. I tested one as well but at 70 mph and I showed a 1.1mpg gain, hmmm... Who is right between our tests? Tyler
    1 point
  12. Remove the leveling kit and see if the issue persists, a "leveled" truck is kinda silly anyways.
    1 point
  13. Your asking if'n I have pics? Haha, pics galore. 285/50r22. I don't really remember the ride quality of the Alanza's. Swapped them out at 600 miles. They weren't a counrty road farm tire. The truck rides better than anything else I have owned.
    1 point
  14. you need to add a diode from the cargo light to reverse light circuit, it is posted on here somewhere
    1 point
  15. Oops, I spoke too soon, I guess I confused the 14-15 with the 16-18. The #4 and #1 pin are opposite. So on the 14-15, pin #1 is brake light and #4 is the accessory light for bed lights. Sorry... And you will still need at least one of these but might consider picking up a couple. The listing does mention free samples so you might give that a try: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-968857-3.html And then the seal which looks like it's available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Connectivity-828905-1-pcs-SINGLE-WIRE-SEAL-HOLE/dp/B00HKI1HCU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=828905-1&qid=1633402099&sr=8-3
    1 point
  16. From what I get from that bulletin, you would need the harness normally used to have underbelly lighting. Here is one place for it but not recommending this retailer: https://www.gmpartsstore.com/oem-parts/gm-tailgate-wiring-harness-22878806 If you go to the last page, you can see that pin #1 is for the accessory lighting which would be controlled by the cargo lamp switch. Although you could just tap into an always live 12v source to power the interior cap lighting. In the same connector that this harness plugs into, pin #4 supplies power when CHMSL light is activated by brakes. The directions recommend pulling the pin from #1 and putting it in the pin #4 slot and that will give you access to a source to activate your cap brake light. On mine, I wanted the interior light tied into the cargo lamp switch. I just leave the interior cap light switched on all the time and can control it from the drivers seat. This has come in handy many times especially when traveling with my dogs who ride back there. I also found out that while driving down the road, if for some reason I need to see back there at night, I can switch into neutral and then the cargo lamp switch will turn on the interior cap light. If it were me doing this, I would leave the #1 pin in place to control interior cap light but add another pin and wire into the #4 pin and wire up the cap brake light into that.
    1 point
  17. This is normal, it is stated in the owners manual on page 312. "When a trailer is connected and the ignition is off, the Trailering App System will periodically pulse the lighting circuits of the trailer to verify it is still connected. The trailer lights may periodically flash as a result of this trailer connection detection. These flashes may be more visible in dark ambient light environments. The flashing or flickering lights are a normal condition and the Trailering App System has built-in protections to prevent the battery from draining. When Theft Alert is also enabled the frequency and pattern of this flashing will change."
    1 point
  18. Grumpy you need glasses lmao look literally right above my paragraph. It says "Source?". Now either your deduction skills are lacking in your old age or you failed high school literature. I understand what I said. Yes they go farther with a deleted system. But what I am saying is is that it is doubtful it is an OWNER oiling issue. And instead an ENGINEERING oiling issue. Again I will quote my original post for you so you don't have to stress your wrinkle-less brain too much.
    1 point
  19. If you don't mind the LT tire rating, it should still be a good tire to run. As far as I know they don't have a P rated tire for the truck size crossclimate agilis tires.
    1 point
  20. 2In Rough Country leveling kit on Factory rims with 275/60R20 BFG KO2s
    1 point
  21. 150,000 Mile Lubrication Services 10/3/2021 2015 GMC Terrain Ecotec 2.4-I4 149,877 Actual 2,367 miles this OCI 4.5 Quarts Kirkland 5W30 .125 quarts Royal Purple (what I had on hand to make up the shortage) 0.375 Quarts TRIAX S7 (13.3:1) [short filled bottle] 1 Purolator Pure One PL15436 Filter Rear Diff 18 ounces Valvoline 75W140
    1 point
  22. I picked it up used on the marketplace. I’ll make it work here shortly. Not bad for about $100.
    1 point
  23. Bad battery cables and or bad battery cable fuse block. #18-NA-161: Steering Jerks Or Kicks Back / Reduced Power Steering Assist / Engine Stall / No Start / Service Stabilitrak / IPC / Radio / HVAC Goes Blank Various DTCs - (Jun 23, 2021) Involved Region or Country North America, Europe, Russia, Middle East, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru, Japan, South Korea, China and Thailand. Condition Important: For 2014 Vehicles please check VIN status per Safety recall 17276. Execute denoted action if VIN status is “open”. Important: For 2015 Vehicles please check VIN status per Safety recall 18289. Execute denoted action if VIN status is “open”. Note: If there are steering related complaints related to this bulletin, please review bulletin 17-NA-345, PIT5457 and 20–NA-113. Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions: Reduced or loss of power steering assist (only LD models equipped with electric power steering) Steering wheel jerks or kicks back when turning Service Stabilitrak message with warning chime Engine stall IPC going blank or inoperative Radio/ICS going blank HVAC going blank Hood ajar message and/or dome lamps flash when shifting into reverse Alarm sounds when locking doors or door locks cycling Wipers continue to run for a short time after turning off and then stop/park in the incorrect location Important: Record history and current codes from all modules before clearing to aid in diagnostics. Some technicians may find one or more of the following DTC’s set: B1325, B124B, B124C, B127B, B127E, C0544, C0710, C0800, P0513, U0020, U0073, U0077, U0078, U0100, U0101, U0102, U0121, U0126, U0131, U0140, U0155, U0164, U0415, U0422, U0428, U0452, U1509, U150F and/or U15E1 Note: The following causes listed below, may cause the battery to discharge. Cause 1 This condition may be caused by battery cables with high resistance and/or loose connections at the: Positive or negative battery cables Battery fuse block Cause 2 This condition may be caused by a poor BCM ground at G218. Cause 3 This condition may be caused by a shorted B+ Battery cable (3) at the Starter Solenoid caused by: A loose starter shield contacting the starter battery cable terminal ring. A starter cable ring terminal that has been mis-installed and/or rotated when installed on the starter solenoid. Cause 4 This condition may be caused by a discharged or faulty battery. Correction 1 Note: If no loss of power component or interface is detected, consider changing out both the negative cable and BDU cable and torque appropriately Important: The following steps must be completed in order. Grasping or attempting to rotate cables could affect readings and should be done after performing the voltage drop measurement. Note: When checking voltage drop, the voltage drop should be performed with the fuel system disabled (or hold the accelerator WOT) and while cranking the engine. MIN/MAX on the Digital Multi Meter (DMM) should NOT be used. The voltage drop should be monitored at a STEADY crank. Inspect for any high resistance and/or loose connections at both the battery fuse block and the positive or negative battery cables. Perform a loaded voltage drop test on the short positive battery cable (1). Refer to “Measuring Voltage Drop” in SI. If the voltage drop is above 100 mV, replace the affected cable(s). For positive cable parts information, refer to the Parts Information section. Perform a loaded voltage drop test on the negative battery cable (2). Refer to “Measuring Voltage Drop” in SI. If the voltage drop is above 200 mV, replace the affected cable. For negative cable parts information, refer to the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC). It is imperative that both the positive and negative battery top posts protrude above the battery cable clamps 1-2 mm (0.040 - 0.080 in) to be properly installed, as shown (3). Check both the positive and negative battery cable clamp nuts and make sure they are properly tightened to 7 Nm (62 lb in). After the positive and negative battery cables are fully installed and tightened to 7 Nm (62 lb in), grasp each battery cable near the battery post and make sure they are secure and that they do not spin on the post. If they spin, replace the battery cable. For positive cable parts information, refer to the Parts Information section. For negative cable parts information, refer to the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC). Inspect the battery fuse block cable connections for being lose by grasping each cable near the eyelet and verify they do not rotate on their respective stud. Verify each nut is torqued properly to 15 Nm (11 ft lb). Inspect the negative battery cable where it connects to the engine block and make sure it is not lose by grasping the cable near the eyelet and verify it does not rotate. Verify the cable nut is torqued properly to 45 Nm (33 ft lb). Correction 2 Note: If no loss of power component or interface is detected, consider changing out both the negative cable and BDU cable and torque appropriately Inspect G218 (applies LD Trucks and SUVs built prior to June 2015): Check for the nut being loose or cross threaded (1), repair and tighten as necessary. Check for the front of dash insulator mat (2) being trapped between the ground eyelet and the body/stud as shown. If the dash insulator mat is trapped, cut the mat away from the ground stud so it will no longer interfere. Reinstall the ground eyelet, the nut, and retighten. Correction 3 Inspect the starter solenoid B+ battery cable for possible contact at the starter heat shield (1) or a loose shield resting on terminal. If the battery cable is shorting out on the starter heat shield, replace the B+ battery cable and starter heat shield. After installing the new starter heat shield and B+ battery cable, ensure there is adequate clearance and each fastener is torqued properly so it will no longer short out. Correction 4 Perform the "Battery Inspection/Test" procedure in SI, using the GR8, and replace the battery if it fails the test. Technicians must attach the GR8 test print out with a Battery Replace decision, that includes the Warranty Code, to the repair order.
    1 point
  24. From what I can see it runs to the third brake light, but there is also a small dome light inside the cap as well. I assumed that wire went to the interior light and the bigger harness went to the brakes.
    1 point
  25. I have a video but it will not let me load it up you can hear that it sounds like the pump is trying to build up pressure
    1 point
  26. The torque converter was going out and it was rebuilt back at the first of the year. So then it had the typical Chevrolet bump which I was told was a relearning process but it continued to get worse to the point I had to go back and he reset the pressures in the transmission. Then recently I had this problem mentioned. Now he’s replaced the TCM, reprogrammed it, rebuilt the solenoids again everything else looked fine. But he thought that it may be the pump then talked himself out of that even after a dealer mechanic said that was the issue.
    1 point
  27. Wheels will fit. But you will want at least 2" level to fit the tires. I have 275/70/18's on my truck with 2.5 level in front
    1 point
  28. It's just one of the ways. It's especially effective if vehicle as low usage. It wins two ways. Depreciation dollars per year are also much lower as they get a little age.
    1 point
  29. No problem. Nylog is liquid snot. Thats what we call it in the trade. You'll see its like clear slime. It doesn't like to stick to oily surfaces.
    1 point
  30. I know this from my own experience. I have done more frequent oil changes than most. Never had a motor failure or lifter failure. I had to replace leaking valve cover gaskets on my 1993 5.7L at 115 K. The valve train and head valleys were clean. Just the normal metal discoloration. This is the sludge collection area. I agree with Melling that oil quality and oil change frequency could affect the lifters. Common sense to me. The motors of today are more complicated, more parts than days of old. In my experience motor failures were top end failures more than bottom end failures. The top requires good oil flow to lube the valve train. Also helps with cooling IMO. The bottom of a motor is bathed in oil. I have replaced more valves, lifters and heads than bottom bearings. Doing more frequent maintenance than any manufacturers maintenance schedule suggests has served me well.
    1 point
  31. What mirrors did you get? Jim and Mike are right. You need to add wires to your harness to make it work. I just installed Boost Auto Tow Mirrors and I had to add 4 wires to each harness.
    1 point
  32. This will probably be my next project. Installed the intellihaul cameras. I think I'm ready to tackle this project next.
    1 point
  33. @15_silverado_wt Download this pdf and it should give you some helpful advice... https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/UI-Bulletin_122b.pdf
    1 point
  34. Straight from the OM, if you have problems getting the issues fixed. Cargo Lamp The cargo lamp provides more light in the cargo area or on the sides of the vehicle, if needed. The lights inside the pickup box and/or on the outside rearview mirrors also turn on, if equipped. Press the switch down to turn the cargo lamp on or off. An indicator light will turn on when the lamp is turned on, if equipped. The shift lever must be in the P (Park) position to operate the cargo lamp. The lights on the outside rearview mirrors turn on if the shift lever is in the R (Reverse), N (Neutral), or P (Park) position.
    1 point
  35. I had that happen 5 years ago. Happened early A.M. and my previous truck was parked. Major damage to left rear and impact was so hard, truck was pushed forward about 20 feet and front right tire was pushed over the curb and onto the grass. Funny thing was that our block was only a block long and a "T" on both ends. I still don't know how stupid was able to get up enough speed to do the damage that he did. Of course he took off. I heard the crash but was recovering from surgery so there was nothing I could do. Luckily, my wife had just come home from work and was in kitchen when it happened. She grabbed her keys and pistol and ran out the door. She was able to track down this guy and found out he was drunk. She was able to get the police there quickly and they arrested the guy. He was driving a Silverado and I was actually surprised at the lack of damage on his end. I was more than pissed because I was about to trade this truck in soon. It was a 2008 that I had bought used and had it for almost 5 years. It had no previous accidents. Now it took a major hit. Luckily he also had insurance and between his insurance and mine getting involved, it got fixed. But now it was going to have a strike whenever a Carfax report was pulled. So I discovered info on Diminished Value and filed a claim for that with his insurance. This covers the difference between what a accident free vehicles value is compared to the value of vehicle with accident damage. At first they tried lowballing me and I rejected their offers. Finally they came through with a figure I was happy with. It ended up covering the difference when I did trade in the truck. But on top of that, his insurance while managing the DV claim, also got involved with body shop as they felt certain things of the fix weren't done to spec and had the body shop correct the mistakes. IMHO, the mistakes were very minor but his insurance wouldn't sign off until the repairs were done 100%. That actually worked out to my benefit. So look into Diminished Value. It doesn't matter if repairs are made or the vehicle is totalled. It still had a certain value prior to accident and lost significant value as a result. If it is totalled, insurance will still try to lowball you. If end settlement is less than what the value should be, Diminished Value would help cover the difference... Just to add, you don't have to even be ready to trade in vehicle. Bottom line is the day before you vehicle was hit, it had a certain value and the day of the accident, it's value has significantly dropped. You are owed the difference even if you plan on keeping the repaired truck...
    1 point
  36. Yes he has insurance
    1 point
  37. my 2020 High Country came with 22's I traded with the dealer for some 20's for summer tires and bought a set of 18" take offs and put Cooper AT3 275/70/ 18 ten ply for winter
    1 point
  38. I'd find some 18's. Those would be cheaper than 20's for sure. Better yet, get the same rims that are your spare rim. Those are still steel wheels.
    1 point
  39. I buy a new pickup every sixty-five years, so I'm good until 2085 with my 2020...
    1 point
  40. Now that owners are taking delivery of the new 2019 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra, I thought a quick reference guide to common routine maintenance items would be beneficial to us all. If you have information that you'd like suggest be added to this topic, just post below and I'll update this first post with any and all new/updated information. 2019 Chevy Silverado & 2019 GMC Sierra Routine Maintenance Quick Reference Guide -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Digital Owners Manuals 2019 Chevrolet Silverado: 2019_Chevy_Silverado_Owners_Manual.pdf 2019 GMC Sierra: 2019_GMC_Sierra_Owners_Manual.pdf Oil Changes 2.7L(L3B) Capacity: 6.0 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF66 / 55495105 Drain Plug Size: TBD 5.3L(L84) & 6.2L(L87) Capacity: 8.0 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF63E / 19330000 Drain Plug Size: 15MM or XX Torx Engine Air Filters With High Capacity Air Cleaner: A3244C / 84121219 Without High Capacity Air Cleaner: A3246C / 84121217 Interior Filters Passenger Compartment Air Filter: CF185 Wiper Blades Drivers & Passenger Sides: 55cm / 21.7 Inches - GM Part Number 23417074 Spark Plugs 2.7L L4: 12688094 / 41-106-IP 4.3L V6: 12622441 / 41-114 5.3L V8 & 6.2L V8: 12622441 / 41-114 Fuel Tank Sizes Standard / Short Box (Gas & 4WD Duramax): 24 Gallons Standard & Short Box (2WD Duramax): 22 Gallons Automatic Transmission Fluid 6-Speed: DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid 8-Speed: DEXRON-HP Automatic Transmission Fluid 10-Speed: DEXRON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid (GM Part Number 19352619/Canada 19352620) Transfer Case Fluid All Models: 1.6 Quarts DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid Wheel Lug Nut Torque All Models: 140 lb-ft / 190 N-m
    1 point
  41. Im new to this forum. I drive an 18 GMC Sierra, bought new. Currently has 113k miles on it, mainly HWY. I will occasionally pull a 4 wheeler, nothing serious. It is in the shop currently getting the transmission rebuilt. It has the 6 speed. Had no issues up to a week ago, then it started lagging with acceleration. Then hard shifts to complete failure. The local transmission shop I took it to said they rebuild 4-5 a week. Probably bigger issues here that should have triggered a recall.
    0 points
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