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Truck got a bath today, cleanest I think it's ever been on the outside

Fresh off the showroom floor

Pandemics and wars have consequences. Inaccurate reactions to same make it worse. Humans react poorly to stress especially if they can't figure out the causes accurately.

Looks great!

Thank you This color is called Mosaic Black Metallic. It has a hint of gold flake. A little different than Onyx Black. I'm getting the front of it it Xpel film tomorrow

An example. On Netflix "Downfall The Case Against Boeing" We are surrounded by liars. Another example https://www.dailysabah.com/environment/2018/08/05/national-geographic-admits-lying-to-its-readers-about-the-dying-polar-bear Because of the lying and the lawyers involvement we are fighting a loosing battle. If you do some research, lying has become the norm.

Milwaukee impact M18

Added my custom designed and cut decal to replace the original trail boss decal.

I got XPEL XR Plus. It was around $500-$600 for all 6 windows. I don't remember exactly. It was the best product at my local shop. They did have the standard ceramic line, but this was slightly better. Like 99% heat rejection vs 95% or something. It's hot and sunny here in Texas. I was trying to get the most performance. $100-$200 extra was well worth it for me.

I fixed the issue by replacing the under hood fuse block. You MUST get this from the dealer. Mine was $225 + tax. Be sure to have your VIN number to get the correct one. The replacement fuse block does have some different fuse arrangements that I verified with the dealer. It it very easy to change out: Remove positive battery cable 10mm Remove power cable from batter to fuse block 10mm The two levers on the fuse block UN-clip and you rotate them all the way to the center; then rotate them back to the outside while slightly apply pressure to lift the fuse block up. Mine cam out VERY easy once I figured this out. No need to pry or use any tools. Take a look at the replacement fuse block levers and you will understand. No need to remove the cover on the fuse block either. Dropped the new one in in reverse from above. Everything works great! Some have mentioned of ground wire issues that may cause this. I am going to take a look at my ground wires from the battery to see if anything is visually wrong.

Originally announced to start Feb 7 and March 6, the start dates were pushed back to Feb 21 (Silao) and Mar 14 (Ft Wayne) Silao should be building 2022.5's now (as of last week). Ft Wayne is supposed to start up in March. Oshawa is building 2500's (chev only) and is preparing to also build 2022.5 1500 Silverado's.

That is correct HPTuners has limitations, Tech-2 would be way cooler. I need to find one, just haven't had the time

A bit dated but a part of the web of why OEMS locked us out. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/automotive-and-assembly/our-insights/the-race-for-cybersecurity-protecting-the-connected-car-in-the-era-of-new-regulation

This is not the old JC Whitney of back in the day. I saw no questionable parts such as fake cell phone antennae, fantastic car stereo sets for prices so low you don't dare order it, no 1964 Ford Galaxie fiberglass fenders, no custom fuel tanks, etc. I bought a 31 gallon fuel tank to replace the 13 gallon OEM tank talk about an upgrade! I also could get alternator upgrade kits, I took my 35 amp model (for a 65 chevy) to 70 amps with a new field coil, bearings, and diode set. You just can't get stuff like that any more.

If anything needed government over site airlines would be it. Just like food. The people who do this job need to be well trained and paid to resist kick backs.

I might be off base here but one thing with all new and upcoming vehicles is the connectivity to online. I understand one should be able to do what they want with their vehicle. But the issue I see is that if everyone can access the computer systems on vehicles then what is stopping anyone from gaining access to the vehicle and taking over control. I think that is the real problem. Manufactures would have to provide a "key" to each and every vehicle so that you are the only one with that key to be able to repair it or provide it to a repair shop so that they can. Otherwise there are individuals out there that just love to "hack" into anything just to have fun and if it was really easy all the more they would do it. I can see people locking the owner out of the car and then holding for ransom. Kind of like they are doing now to computer systems. What a mess that would be. Again, I might be off base but that is how I see it.

Trickle down does work. The Reagan area is a good example. Same as the Trump. A good example of too much government control was the Jimmy Carter area and 13 percent interest on my first house. I remember on the nightly news they would call it the pain index. One other example is now. We give up our oil independence and Russia prospers and invades. We moved from New Jersey to Texas 40 years ago because of constants on business and high taxes. My property taxes are still less than in New Jersey 40 years ago. Our business thrives here beyond our wildest expectations. I lived it on the business side. I know the difference between constraint and freedom. I lived in both.

I empathize 100%. So, I have so many tools I don't always know what I have! That shop owes you a pro-rated amount of money for the premature wear due to their negligence OR 2 tires new or used in very good shape. I have taken my vehicles in for alignment and as I left the shop my steering wheel was not centered as I drove down the road. That makes me crazy; shops that don't check things that were specifically asked for! Shops that don't road test things like alignments, brake jobs! Any safety related repair should be road tested, we shouldn't need a law for this, every shop should do it as a matter of quality control and to lessen liability for shoddy work like you got. Don't forget to post your displeasure on the BBB web site as well.

Hello, I just picked up my new 2021 Silverado LT Trail Boss today. I did have to wait for the one I wanted but was definitely worth it. Got the Crew Cab, Standard Box, 6.2L, Leather package and many more. I'll hopefully start writing more in this build thread. I previously had a 2013 BMW M5 (picture below). For those on Instagram, please be sure to follow on @PureZ71 (https://www.instagram.com/purez71/?hl=en) Thanks! Current mods - Rydonair Flexible Rubber Antenna Replacement - Front Windows tinted to match the rears - Plastic Dip the chrome around the front bow-tie - Center Console Organizer Tray & Center Console Divider - LasFit LED Turn Signals, Reverse Lights & License Plate Lights - Z71 Emblems Replacement (Black & Red) - Silverado 6.2L Matte Black Emblem - Gator EFX Hard Fold Tonneau Cover - SB3 Ceramic Coating and PPF by Superior Auto Shine - ReadyLift 2" SST Lift Kit - Front & Rear Mud Flap Delete Kit - Black Z71 Grill Emblem - Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Hub and Wheel Centric Wheel Spacers; Black - Toyo Open County R/T (35X12.5XR18) - Swing Case (Drivers Side) - BulletProof Hitch (Heavy Duty 6" Drop) - Blacked out Muffler Tips My previous build:

Upgraded to the High Country cluster over the weekend. Install was seamless.

Ah!! I see your point and your point....I agree with. Whew! Thanks Mike. Buick still is going to get really short OCI's on really great oil. More convinced now than ever. Again, thanks. Last point on graph is the projected 2 point polynomial for current cycle usage with a confidence of R2=1. Still above anything GM would do anything about it. I noted in the video you tagged that the motor in the video was using 3 QUARTS per THOUSAND.

GM did lie, they always do. My point is, your oil is specified for a GM product, it’s Dexos approved. It should easily be able to do a 5,000 mile interval in a 7,500 recommendation. And that’s the problem. GM lied. They built a product with oil ring returns too small, and tension too light...in a direct injection vehicle to boot!! Their fault. Not yours. Not your oil. GM lies like a rug, always have always will. Their “fix” to their noisy intermediate steering shafts 15 years ago was for us (I used to work on GM’s) to remove the shaft and stroke it 15 times, which in theory moves the wax around, and then reinstall. Customer would be back three weeks later. They were the ones getting stroked. Finally GM bit the bullet and replaced the shafts. It’s what they do. Lie, cut corners. When I mentioned the Redline and Amsoil, I was picturing you trying to fix this problem with a boutique oil, on short intervals. Or prevent this problem, I should say. And maybe it would. It would also cost you over the life of a vehicle almost as much as a new engine, compared to being able to do a 7,500 mile intervals on a dexos licensed oil (which GM is telling/lying to customers that it can do/should do). Engine life to 200,000 miles x oil changes every 2,000 miles x using Amsoil at $80 bucks x 100 oil changes = $8,000 dollars. VS $810 bucks doing 7,500 mile intervals using Quaker State Ultimate Durability over the course of 200,000 miles. I probably screwed that math up a bit. Give or take a few hundred. But if GM didn’t lie and screw this up, that’s what one should reasonably expect out of a an engine. 200,000 miles, 7,500 mile intervals, using an off the shelf readily available licensed Dexos approved oil and filter.

Made it to the cover of American Truck catalog this morning.

Yup. Blown cig lighter fuse. That solved the issue. Thanks.

So my brother recently gave me the 19303115 Stillwater designs kicker 200w/400w sub and amp kit with 2 10" subs that he acquired from someone for dirt cheap. I have the 2019 Silverado 2500hd ltz Midnight edition w/Bose and I unfortunately found out from kicker that it wasn't compatible with Bose systems. So after watching all kinds of videos and reading so many different threads trying to figure out if I could make this kit work in my truck or if there was an alternate plug and play harness for it that would work on the Bose system but unfortunately there wasn't one. So I decided to just try to make it work with the harnesses in the kit. I ran the power wire as usual from my secondary battery to the back seat running it under the left kick panel. Instead of using the kicker amp my brother gave me a 1500w amp that I could use because it wasn't powerful enough for both subs. Plus I wanted to keep the Bose amp because it controls the door chimes etc and it powers the rest of the speakers along with the factory sub which I left connected. So my kickers are running strictly off the 1500w amp. I tapped into the Blue and Grey wires from the Bose sub with T taps or whatever they're called and I hooked up a RCA line converter for the input signal to my new amp and I ran the remote wire to an open fuse circuit in my fuse box. I also added in a base knob to control the subs volume level. So I pretty much eliminated the 400w amp and the little 200w amps on the speaker boxes and just used the 1500w amp. Sorry for all the extra and probably unnecessary details but I was trying to be as clear as possible. But anyway after installing both kicker subs which only one side bolts up properly because I believe they dont come in a pair and they both have the same mounts. The system sounds fantastic and it hits hard after tuning it and the only things I had to purchase were the T-taps, RCA plugs, base knob and a line converter for a total of like $40. I think the back door speakers could use tweeters or something like that or maybe swap em out for some 6.5's with tweeters and it would sound amazing. It would have been nice if the plug and play harnesses worked because it would have been easier but I wouldn't have been able to use the 1500w amp and I feel like the kicker wouldn't have been powerful enough. Anyway if you have any questions about how I set it up just ask and ill answer them the best I can.

You can buy tech-2s off ebay and from oemtools or something I use HPTuners as a scanner

KNP is for the external transmission oil cooler on your generation truck.

Found a mural in Enterprise, AL that was begging for a shot, and then two days later I finally got my camper shell. It's a ARE CX Evolve w/drop down front slider and key fob lock/unlock.

Not saying this is your problem, but you can replace just the sensor, you don’t have to replace the whole pump. If you have cut an access hole, it ought to be a breeze to replace the sensor. GM part number is 16238399. This is the one my truck uses, should be the same for yours. My truck is a 2003 GMC Sierra w/5.3L gas (not Flex Fuel) engine. Here’s a GM one on eBay … https://www.ebay.com/itm/353759723733?hash=item525db900d5:g:HpwAAOSwLgFch6tr

Awww Stan. going to take your toys and go home? I simply reminded a few people, that this thread topic was not about Ukraine. Trying not to let it turn into a Ukraine centered thread. Nothing has been removed. I don't know if the Admins would let a Ukraine thread fly or not. It probably would be pretty political, don't you think?. You think you want want to moderate the mothereffing site after you start a thread on Ukraine and the arguments possibly start, carrying over into other threads? Then that pisses off the members who don't give a ****** about anything but their issue. Not everyone on this site can carry on a thoughtful conversation without escalation. Certain members can't help but making things personal. Already enough bad blood between certain members on here Again, you want to be a moderator, keep the peace, catch the spammers/hackers? Let me know and I'll see what I can do Oh, a Mod is volunteering his/her time to keep the site going, no pay, Stan

No different pan. My 2021 Denali has same option code and its called on the build sheet KNP - Transmission Oil Cooler PS - KNP is a common rpo code used.

Hope you've replaced those stock UCA'S by now. Because if you haven't, it might cost you a lot.

mirror only has 10v feed so the mirror tap probably would not have worked well, 10v made my valentine go skitzo so I tapped into the airbag light which has 12v feed.

Pellet grills are all the rage nowadays it seems. Bunch of brands out there. Not uncommon to see models @ $1000 or so. Mine looks more like a gas grill from the outside. Picked it up at Wally on clearance for $199, regularly around $500, I think. That was my limit to spend on one since I've got a perfectly good charcoal burner. So, I'm trying it out. Bags of pellets aren't all that bad. You can catch them on sale @ $.50 per pound or less. All kinds of brands/flavors out there. I was already into smoking, but my smoker was almost a little too small at times, so this pellet grill can take over the smoking jobs. temperature control is like cooking in an oven. Yeah it says Cuisinart on it, but it's made here in Texas by a company that produces a lot of cooking equip

Went to the dump and happened to get this view while there of Mt Rainier

My Lifter Failure story. (2021 LT 6.2L, 13.5k miles; built late 2020) Last weekend I started the truck and heard some loud knocking noise from the engine. No CEL or warnings in the cluster. Called the dealer and they wanted it towed in. Got it towed Monday morning. By that evening I got a call saying piston #5 had a bent push rod due to failed lifters and they’ll start repair work asap. By Wednesday evening the repair was done. Huge thanks to @artgamblinmotors for such a fast turn around time. Note: truck is completely stock engine wise. Glad to have my truck back

Took some photos of my friends' cars. Since we all had chevy's decided to add mine into the shot as well

Really loved my '15 All Terrain SLT but needed to upsize to a crew cab so the kid has more room. Had to travel to a neighboring state to find this AT4 that was just delivered and somehow was still available. Loving the 3.0 torque and sound!

Sounds correct, there are relays that are actually part of the UH FB, and can not be serviced or replaced.

Welcome to the site. This is what you need to do if it is the same problem as the above post: this relay is integrated on a circuit board in the fuse block assembly. To fix this issue will require replacement of the entire fuse block under the hood.

Got the new wheels on and I'm really happy with what I went with. These are Fuel Block D751, 18X9 -12 offset. Wrapped in the same Toyo Open Country R/T

Finally completed the Version 1 look that I wanted since I've got the truck. Added the 2" spacers and Toyo Open County R/T in 35x12.5R18 https://www.americantrucks.com/supreme-suspensions-2-hub-wheel-centric-wheel-spacers-0718-silverado-1500.html https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Open+Country+R%2FT&partnum=525QR8OCRT&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

No actually updates to the truck but went towards the mountains for some photos. And of course it starts raining as we get there. But being from the PNW, we are used to shooting in the rain

I just bought the same truck less than two weeks ago. So far I blacked out the badges, replaced the antenna with a Ronin Bullet antenna, did a muffler delete and center console tray (same one). I have an appointment for window tint in two weeks. Getting 5% all around. The muffler delete makes the truck sound mean. I left the resonators. Only thing I do t like is when DFM kicks in.

The easiest one out of the three. Just open the hood and find the right spot. Twist and pull it out. Hope these picture help. Just remember that if you put the new bulb in and it doesn’t work, take out the bulb and flip it 180 and then try it again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not really sure yet. Still learning a lot about Chevy and the truck world... I plan on keeping this truck for a while. That being said, I had to get the front windows tinted. Got them to match the rear windows.

Another picture...

Ok so I want to put a post together about the onstar, XM, sharkfin, and whatever else antenna we have on the K2xx platform. I know there have been water leaks plaguing all years from 14-18. All the posts here I have seen, don’t really have any info or “the dealer fixed it”. A lot of people have commented that there is a break in the seal in the rear of the antenna. Please understand that is not a water seal for water intrusion into the cabin. That is only a rubber trim from the plastics of the antenna to the metal roof skin. There is a foam seal that goes around the wires and the mount that does all of the sealing of the elements. When the foam seal deteriorates is when the water issues start. I will explain with pics a little further down in the post. So I have a 14 Denali, vehicle was Daily driven, until 2 months ago, has 90,xxx miles on it, sat out side during the day, and garage kept at night. I have never had any water issues from the antenna (or the 3rd brake light for that matter) Here you can see the square seal around the home in the roof was still sealing with no issues One of the reasons this post happened was because I found a color matched shark fin brand new for VERY cheap. And my Denali has the black plastic fin from the factory.

I've uploaded video to youtube - I think this works better than pictures. GM Sub, installed

Stock bose 6” sub vs 10” JL Stealthbox for under center console