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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/12/2022 in all areas

  1. Corsa Catback. No drone, no welding, straight forward, and no looking back and wondering WHY didn’t I do this in the first place. It’s a $70k truck! Don’t skimp out on one of the most important pieces of making it sound excellent. Good luck.
    3 points
  2. Finally got the call I was waiting for! Picking it up in the morning.
    2 points
  3. Your first bullet reminded me of this:
    2 points
  4. If he puts a Corsa on it, (Or Borla) he won't be b!tching about how bad his exhaust sounds because of drone or obnoxious sounds!! He will be coming onto the site, thanking me for telling him to do it the right way the first time!
    2 points
  5. Advise that was given to me for living. Acquire what you need, not what you want. Don't be the first and don't be the last. Don't try to be the most popular or be the least. Be generous. Dance with the one you brought. Modesty in All Things Any person self honest will find this harder than it looks.
    2 points
  6. This thread proves like many it about personal tastes. I never could understand how people could push mail order cat back exhaust when I had such good luck with a bender. I probably used just about every muffler made. Drone comes at different times with RPM and exhaust length and size. I never had modern exhaust rot. I still see my 92 that had headers and exhaust that’s at least 15 years old by a bender. The problem today has more to do with cylinder deactivation than drone. Any louder than stock exhaust is going to enhance that. Mail order or bender. Active exhaust is the only option.
    1 point
  7. Cooling System 5/12/2022 Pulled 1/2 gallon of coolant and replaced with a like amount of distilled water. This reduced the volume % Ethylene Glycol from 50% to 43.24%. That is a 4% increase in specific heat. About the same as adding a radiator 4% thicker. (Refractometer) Today was a few degrees hotter than yesterday and the winds significantly greater. Yesterday (see post above) once past the 'tipping point' the transmission cooling system would not recover. Just settled into a new high. Turn on the AC and it would continue to climb. I don't know how long but I bailed before 180F. Today fluid temps were down a bit, 3 to 4F, and took longer to peak. Stayed under 170 F....just and when forced over 170 F as in stopping or running under 45 mph, it recovered to back under 170 F within a few miles in open air over 50 mph. Even with the AC on. Even with the wind on her six. Still warmer than I like. But manageable with technique. Right at or just in front of the 'tipping point' now. Experiment showed me what I wanted to see.
    1 point
  8. X3 Corsa catback. We had a 5.3 Trail Boss traded in, PO had a Flowmaster welded in (I'm in NY). Welds, muffler and the pipe were rusted bad but no leaks, the drone was absolutely nauseating.
    1 point
  9. Highly disagree. The new interior is a much needed improvement. The old interiors were extremely boring and outdated. The Denali interior was no different than the SLT with exception of the badge on the steering wheel... It was the worst part on GM trucks. Finally GM has a nicer interior than Ford and close to Dodge.
    1 point
  10. I am too though its super frustrating and I'll always be suspect of the trans now. My current truck (glad I didn't sell it yet!) 2014 Ram 1500 5.7 8spd ZF has been great for 80k miles. I really hoped GM would have put the 10spd in but when I read not til 24' I went ahead and ordered the truck. I asked for a loaner and they laughed at me, saying they hadn't got any new loaners for at least 8 months. I'm going to push them for a few oil changes at least. @Black02Silverado, I 100% agree. Way too many electronics! And everything is locked down so you can't adjust/upgrade much.
    1 point
  11. Sucks that this happens. The more electronics are use the more for potential issues. Not like days of old where everything was mechanical.
    1 point
  12. This. Sounds great. Quiet while cruising and nice sound on the throttle.
    1 point
  13. then come on the site b!tching that it drones and has obnoxious helicopter sound Then what is he going to talk about after it is done then???
    1 point
  14. I would definitely go for an SS version. In January I traded in my 2005 SS with 265k for my 2021 RST. It was starting to show its age but overall it was a great truck. Never left me stranded. Towed a boat, car easily with the 6.0L. I think it was less than 1% of all the Silverado's made those years that were built as SS's and with the move to "green" vehicles I'm not sure we will ever see another Silverado SS. Really pissed me off when they started putting an SS badge on a Cobalt!
    1 point
  15. I put exhaust on the majority of my rides since the 70s. In the beginning true duals with glass packs or thrush mufflers and hush thrush. Depending on vehicle. The true duals without cross pipe didn’t drone. Later with cross pipes the was drone at cruising depending on RPM. For example my 94 impala at 55 mph. Luckily the speed limit was higher so it wasn’t a problem. So now adding cylinder deactivation to the mix some people claim you can have no drone with mail order exhaust. But muffler shops can’t do it. So instead of a 100$ muffler swap and maybe the range device or tuning. The only thing that does the job is a mail order 1K plus exhaust. What’s the magic?
    1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. I know this is an old post but since GM offers the 3.0 Duramax with 3.73's and someone like me who has a 6.2 with 3.42's and has gone up to 35's, going to 3.73's would make up for the tire size difference. (weight and wind resistance is a different story) but at least when towing my 10,000lb toy hauler I'd be slightly better off than where I am today. I'd rather go all the way to a 4.10 but with 3.73's my speedo would be extremely close and I could ditch the Hypertech inline corrector. Thoughts?
    1 point
  18. You can smoke test the tail pipe and see where the smoke comes out to test for an exhaust leak as well
    1 point
  19. FWIW, I bought my '21 RST in October and had it about a week when it did this same thing. It only did it once, and I have had no issues since.
    1 point
  20. A couple of months ago I could have purchased an EV of my choice and received a very generous trade-in allowance for my truck. Now I have to wait at least a year for any EV and my truck has devalued considerably. We do know that in a few months factors will change. However, we don't know if this change will be worse or better. I am not optimistic that fuel prices will drop substantially or EV's will fill dealership lots in the near future. This reminds me of when household computers were becoming a reality. They were very expensive and by the time you unpacked your new purchase, it was out of date! The advice of the day was, "The best time to buy a computer is now". In other words, if you wait for the next development, you'll never buy one! Today, I can get my name on a waitlist and receive a decent EV in about a year. My truck still has value and can get some trade credit. If I wait....
    1 point
  21. Oh and spend the money on treating the doors. The mid bass in my truck is amazing with the sound skins treatment and roadkill surrounds. It's probably the most impressive thing about the truck, but the AF tweets are damn good too.
    1 point
  22. I ran the sub off channel 5&6 because I thought it was ample power for the sub and I didn't want to waste the quality AC channels on a set of rear fill speakers. I was wrong, the AC bridged channels were decent but lacking a bit of power for my sub considering the active stage in front. So I pulled the Infiniti amp and replaced it with a pioneer mono block 800 watt amp. Now my sub has plenty of power and the rear fill resides on the AC channels 5&6. Also ended up buying AF tweets and replaced the Hertz tweets on the dash. They were just a bit bright and didn't care for them, the AF's are damn impressive. The AC DSP amps are good but the software is buggy and the tuning aspect of the software is not very friendly. If I was starting over I probably would've went a different route but it was too late in the game to change. As for accubass, it works but with a remote bass knob you'll find that it's not needed. I set my amp to turn on the bass level to a reasonable level, actually a bit low. Then when I get in my truck and drive if Im not in a jamming mode I don't find myself having to mess with the knob. If I want to rock some tunes, then I dial it in on each song. Works well. So I've switched accubass off. As for a good signal, you'll be fine. The stock head unit isn't too bad. Basically I don't exceed 3/4 volume and everything sounds clean. I could see some clipping after 3/4.
    1 point
  23. I don’t do it myself…I had it done by a local company. I have a 2020 Silverado High Country so it’s pretty quiet from the factory. So that’s why I say it took the edge off. It’s not a drastic change but it does make a little bit of a difference. I guess it would have been better if I did a before and after with a decibel meter. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  24. It will turn off even when the AC is on, just not as frequently as if the AC is off. Your understanding of that was incorrect. However, it should've come back on when you either released the brake peddle, or put the truck in P. Sounds like there may be a "glitch". Refreshed model tells me it's new. It has been my experience with several GM's that "electrical gremlins" can exist after a few thousand miles. In my experience, after you have 5,000 miles on the odometer they should not happen anymore, although I've had it occur at least once after the 5,000 mile mark (but not too far after that) with my 2020 Silverado and it (cross country drive, crossing down SB I-15 into Baker, CA, cruise control set while going downhill, ESC Traction Control, CEL, and limp mode) never repeated itself after that. If you'd like to avoid future possible occurrences you can just turn off auto start/stop when you get into the truck each time. I think there's an aftermarket device you can buy to shut it off permanently, but I don't have any info on that.
    1 point
  25. Well unfortunately I can’t upload the pics of the DynaMat Xtreme I added to my interior. But that’s what I did and it took the edge off. I covered the entire interior along with each door.
    1 point
  26. On flat ground it will tow in 6th with lockup. Tow speed in California was 55 mph on cruise (max speed allowed). In other states, the towing speed is usually 62 mph where allowed. That is usually a few miles an hour under the trucking speeds, so I can relax on cruise,and let the world pass me by... lol
    1 point
  27. Thanks! I'll keep this in mind at my next change.
    1 point
  28. Bump from above and from my experience in oil analysis world for 42 years. I wish people here would use our site sponsor Nick's ( BLACK02SILVERADO) Iso Certified Advanced Oil Analysis instead of the partial testing we see in the Bklabs work. The Bklabs, ALS, Polaris, other brands data is not complete in breadth of testing so you can't get a full picture of condition of unit tested or engine oil either. If your SAMPLE ARRIVES at the lab in the am and sometimes in PM Nick will have your data out THAT DAY. No other in the business does that for us little people.....LOL
    1 point
  29. I've enjoyed towing heavy with the L8T as well. Even on long steep climbs it feels confident. Not rip the asphalt under the tires Diesel power, but significantly better than previous gas engines. Paid $6.60/gal for 87 Octane at a truck stop near Ft. Irwin, CA. Versus $5.00 in the City of Lost Wages, NV (saw gas for $4.40/gal at another station, but missed the exit). Then in the middle of nowhere, UT (heading to Bryce Canyon) 88 Octane was $4.80. Had a good tail wind most the way, and even with the climbs up over 8K', it averaged about 8.5mpg. My fuel costs have doubled, which has limited the ability to support mom&pop places as we travel around the country. Basically the $500 to $600 we use to spend monthly with local artists, restaurants, farmer's markets, etc. is going to the oil companies. In the meantime, not a barrel of oil production has changed since before the invasion of Ukraine. Europe says maybe by the end of the year they'll reduce reliance on Russian oil. Biden says: "it's going to cost us all". What an absolutely ignorant jerk. When was the last time he had to buy his own gas to go to work, or travel anywhere. Apologies for the rant...
    1 point
  30. Checking in to see if anyone has had their nightmare come to an end yet. This Friday will be 8 months waiting for GM just to accept my order. I'm starting to get a lot pissed off and considering taking a different path, which pisses me off further. So, nothing new to report! if anything changes I'll run here first to provide some encouragement for everyone. Being in sales I've always said I[m the easiest person to sell to because I know what I want and am low maintenance but this is beyond anyone's practical patience. It's not the wait as much as it is the complete lack of information from anyone. It's not the dealer I can tell you that, it's 100% GM. On the bright side, I'm glad I'm not a freshy parent with babies to feed- mothers can't find baby formula so I guess there's not much to bich about over a truck.
    1 point
  31. Refreshed 5.3L Elevation with ETA of 5/14 picked up yesterday! Already moved the Sierra badge on the tailgate to where I beleive it looks better. I already love this truck! It feels so much bigger than my 2004 Avalanche
    1 point
  32. If its any consolation, I had a very similar scenario on my 2014 with a 5.3. Replaced a control module and its been problem free for 85,000 miles. With all the electronics on everything with wheels its bound to happen. Sucky scenario after the wait to get the truck in the first place. Im still playing the waiting game on a 22 I ordered.
    1 point
  33. Dealer says it's P0777 code for the solenoids. They pulled the module and tested the coils. Several solenoids are bad and they are replacing the whole control module. Parts are 1-2 weeks out. Hurry up and wait again...
    1 point
  34. Same problem here - display jumps randomly. Dealer charged $260 "labor" just to download software updates yesterday! Replacement units are on "national back order" - unavailable. Updates were unhelpful, of course. Seems like a product defect.
    1 point
  35. Thanks! They are the perfect color and brightness. I got them on Amazon. Partsam 4 pack LED rock lights part # GTCV-0256604321
    1 point
  36. Just got back home after my wife's surgery and have completed extending my camera cables so I could swap the trailer plug with the video cable connectors from the bumper to the bed. It was a success and am very happy with the results and hope this helps everyone that tows a goose neck or fifth wheel. I purchased the cables from PASTERNACK (www.pasternack.com) 866-727-8376, Sales Person was Derek Burkett with the following part numbers. The last two digits are the length. I ordered 36" which worked great, but some folks may want to order another 12". The total cost including taxes and shipping was less than $100. a. Rear view camera cable (black) PE3W08444-36, description. Black FAKRA Jack to FAKRA Plug Cable Using LMR-100 Coax. b. Inside camera cable (Water Blue which is a universal cable to connect to the Orange cable) PE3C2779-36, description. Water Blue FAKRA Jack to FAKRA Plug Cable Using LMR-100 Coax. To install you will need to remove the bumper plug and the bed plug. The plugs have a metal squeeze clip that you need to press from the backside, the bumper can be accessed from behind the bumper and bed plug will require you to remove the rear taillight to access the rear of the bed plug. Your owners manual explains on how to remove the rear taillights. On the bumper plug video cables you will need to slide the red clips back and then push down on the release tab to release the jack from the plug. Next on the 7 pin connector you will slide the light grey clip back and then push down on the release tab to release the 7 pin connector (I found it easier to completely remove the grey clip due to access). I installed the bed plug first which will require you to remove some of the spray-on bed liner and make adjustments to the metal squeeze clips to accommodate the Pyle National Plug and the thicker bed wall. It makes it easier to do a test fit before applying cables. I spent many hours searching and calling, but I couldn't find anyone that would supply waterproof connectors, so you will need to tape these up to keep out moisture. The pictures will tell the story and I did finish up by using cable ties to secure the cables to the 7 pin cable harness from the bed plug to the bumper plug.
    1 point
  37. This sure is not what I wanted my first post to be! I finally picked up my new truck after a 6 month wait (2022 Sierra 2500HD doublecab 4x). Drove 25 miles of happiness. Parked for a couple of hours and when leaving parking brake didn't want to let go. Once released, drove away and between 1st and 2nd gear it went neutral and revved up before catching 2nd and surging forward. It won't go past 2nd gear. Pulled over and tried a restart. Same issue. Also found it will now not go into reverse- it revs the engine, then almost dies, shuddering, then revs to 4k again and settles down. All in reverse and my foot on the brake. Parked it in front of the dealer service shop with a check engine light and 31 total miles. Not freaking happy. It's real pretty though lol I'll update with results. Anybody else had this issue? Thanks, Chris
    0 points
  38. The dealer received and replaced the TCM and the problem persists. They have "condemned" the transmission and are going to replace the whole thing. Of course new transmissions are on backorder. Probably another month. So I'm going to have to make the first payment and not even have the damned truck.
    0 points
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