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Picking it up in the morning.

This says it all about people today. https://i.imgur.com/ZU6zoXh.mp4

And hence how outdated info and testing from "decades" ago is when it relates to much more modern engines and ECM's. A LTx engine wont make more power at 230° of coolant temps, it will make less power due to the heat. The coolant temps alone will have the ECM pulling timing, couple that with it increasing the IAT temps and them pulling timing as well. GM's Ltx engines already struggle to not detonate on 91, adding heat to them in the form of coolant temps and intake air temps will only cause the issue to be worse as the temps go up.

I don't believe any after-market controller can compare to the native controller if set up properly (correct gain). The factory controller applies braking proportionally to the pressure on the brake pedal. You press harder, the trailer brakes harder. When properly set up, there is no 'pushing' from the trailer under braking. The inertial sensors are reacting to deceleration of the vehicle versus the braking effort. There will always be a lag.

After seeing @Semedar's post here: I decided to order part number 13525431 and upgrade the USB port on my 2020 Custom Trail Boss, to the part which has a USB-A, USB-C and SD Card slot. Since we are apparently limited to the IOR stereo system, any upgrades to the audio system are good. I ordered the part from eBay for about $29 shipped, and it arrived in under a week. To remove the original USB adapter, I first looked at the new part to see the plastic retention clips on the top and bottom. I then used my plastic trim tools to pry around the existing part. I was able to get the skinny trim tool under the bottom to open up a gap, then I placed a bigger trim tool in the gap. Next, I used the skinny trim tool on the top to work it out. Knowing that I had to release the two clips up top, I pushed down in those areas who pulling out on the USB assembly. It made a somewhat sickening sounding snap when each of the retention clips released, but to my surprise, nothing was broken. Keeping the top pulled out, I then moved to the bottom with the small trim tool and clicked those clips in, until the entire assembly was released. I then removed the USB assembly from the dash. To my relief, the parts were the same size and the connectors were the same. The difference on the connectors being that the USB port is upside down, requiring you to invert the somewhat tight cable. But it was no problem and both connectors were able to clip into the new assembly. Before inserting the new USB assembly into the dash, I first tried out the USB-A connector by plugging my phone into it and verifying that I could still launch Android Auto, which it did. I then pushed the new USB assembly into the dash until it clicked, and all was well. I didn't try the USB-C connector yet, but I assume it will work. I'll have to get my wife's iPhone to try that, since I don't have any USB-C cables for my Android devices. Here's the new part installed: I tested out the SD card reader by copying some songs onto an older 1GB SD card that was formatted as FAT32. I inserted the card into the reader and on the radio, I could select the SD card with the buttons on the left were AM and FM were. I had two files in the root directory and other songs in folders, but it scanned the whole card and seemed to play them in a shuffle order by default. Hopefully that can be changed, so I can play specific folders. This was a great cheap upgrade to add some additional functionality to our IOR limited vehicles. Here's a comparison shot between the old and new parts installed: Thanks again to @Semedar for pointing me in the right direction!

I'm looking for a compact 5 gallon sized jerry can that fits well under the bed rail area on the inside of the box. Essentially something that takes up less floor space on the bed of the box and tuck in nicely to the side so it's out of the way. I've seen quite a few that are narrower and taller than a traditional container, I'm sure that style will work, but just curious if there are any specific ones others have used that fit well. Wish they'd just put larger tanks on these trucks so I didn't need this, but when pulling a trailer having an extra 5 gallons is some nice peace of mind. Thanks for the help!

Been reading threads here for years, but just now signed up to make my first post. I bought my 2012 Silverado 5.3 in 2018 with 113k miles. No maintenance records but looked well cared for and has run great since I bought it. I changed the oil at 115k and at 122k (per DIC, and I always use Mobil 1 full synthetic) and I don't recall noticing low levels of drained oil, but I wasn't looking out for it - all just seemed fine. I did notice significant loss at the next change at 129k, probably 2 quarts or so but unfortunately didn't measure. So, I started monitoring the situation and switched to a fixed 5k interval, ignoring the DIC. Just changed again at 134k and was about 2.25 quarts low, so I'm burning just under one quart every 2,000 miles. Given the timeline outlined above, I'm not certain when it started burning. Could have been before I bought it and just never noticed it being low (dipstick never showed low and oil pressure is always good) or could have happened sometime between 5-12k miles ago. In addition, a few months ago, I noticed a ticking sound coming from the engine, pretty clearly on the driver's side. It's intermittent but around 75% of the time at startup. After doing some reading and comparing to some sounds on YouTube videos, I'm thinking it's a lifter. Putting the oil consumption and lifter ticks together and reading up on it, it seems like both are likely related to the known AFM issues, which I wasn't aware of prior to all this. That said, there are no apparent problems - engine is smooth at all RPMs, code reader shows no misfires or other codes, oil pressure is always 30-50 psi depending on engine temp and RPM, and the used oil looks fine to me. So, my question is what should I do? It seems like there are 3 main options after reading up on all this: Do nothing except continue to monitor oil levels and pressure, continue changing oil at 5k, and just address issues as needed (if a misfire develops, for example), hoping nothing worse happens. Possibly also add the Range AFM disabler, but I'm not sure if it will really prevent any additional problems at this point (will it?). Change the lifters (and also possibly add the Range) at moderate cost. Seems like this would address the tick, but also the oil consumption? Preemptively delete the entire AFM with cam/tune/etc. at significant cost to avoid catastrophic damage (destroyed cam sending metal into the lower end). Are there other options I'm missing? Given my situation, what should I do? Any advice would be much appreciated, so thank you all in advance.

Supercruise order code still talks about 'late availability'. UKL Super Cruise, a hands-free driver assistance feature for use on compatible roads, includes automatic lane changing and trailering capability, 3-year subscription 1 - Late availability. Included with (RFP) Denali Reserve Super Cruise Package. Requires T*10543 model and (CWM) Technology Package. Not available with (L84) 5.3L EcoTec3 V8 engine or (PEC) Denali Reserve Package. 2 - Late availability. 1 -- Denali 2 -- Denali Ultimate (it will be optional on Denali and standard on Denali Ultimate, and optional on 1500 High Country)

thanks for posting your results, too often we never hear what the outcome is

Hey ya'll, I bought a FOXWELL NT510 Elite code reader. Good machine so far. I need to program a new Integrated Trailer Brake Control module. Can I do this with this device? I appreciate any and all help you can provide. Thanks, Bill

I'm sure you're right. It bugs me to pay the stupid dealer prices, but I guess I don't have a choice. Thanks for the help.

I don’t have any good pics, but picked this up last week. Loving it so far.

Well all I wanted to give an update as the issue has been resolved. This will be a long post with a bunch of information so hopefully this can help someone down the road. Where I started. I was driving down the highway and my low oil light came on and the warning to shut off engine. So I pulled over and shut off my engine. I then checked the dipstick. My oil was on the low side of the checked boxes on the dipstick but still ok in range.My motor burns oil as most of these 5.3’s with afm does and if my oil is low I’ll get a low level indication. So I went ahead and added oil to the full line on the dipstick. I started my truck and it would go to 25 psi then slowly fall till the warning light would come back in. I’d shut it off and then it would come back on. Ok so I got the truck back to my place and knew the oil sending unit and thescreen below it are a common issue so I stopped into my local store and picked those two parts up and replaced. That had no affect. As I listened to the motor run there was no noise. No valve train noise, nor rod nock. Nothing. So I was pretty sure my engine was good internally. So then I wondered if it was the o ring on the pickup tube where it meets the oil pump. So to test this theory I parked my truck on a hill facing downward and I put in 2 quarts of atf and 6 oz of seafoam. I used these because they would still raise the level but also have high detergent content and can aid in cleaning. When I did this there was still no change. Still would start and go to 25 psi and then slowly fall. Now while doing these tests if I would press on the gas the pressure would go up. Not a lot but some. This indicated to me that my oil pump was good and not a problem I needed to look into first. So fast forward to today and I decided to do an engine oil flush. So I took out the 8 quarts of oil/atf/seafoam and first I look over it for metal shavings to see if there was any internal wear. Luckily the oil was in very good condition as it had only had 1000 miles on it. Then I took off the filter. I put on a napa oil filter, just the basic pro grade, and put in 5 quarts of napa oil, 1 quart of napa oil flush, and 8 oz of seafoam. I ran this through my truck for 30 minutes mostly at idle/low load with some acceleration mixed in. During this 30 minutes I was never below 30 psi of pressure. So I then removed the oil flush and put in 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and a Napa gold wix filter. I put another 45 minutes on the truck and 20 miles and had roughy 40 psi the entire time. So as of now it seems as the issue is fixed. Now where I was going after this (To help someone who this might not solve there issue) Next I would have put a manual pressure gauge onto the engine and verified that it was reading the same as the gauge. Now if it was reading good pressure but the gauge wasn’t three things could be the issue. 1. The oil pressure sensor is bad (make sure to use an oem AC delco part for this. And dorman makes a good screen to go below it) 2. The wiring for the sensor is bad. Or the stepper motor in the gauge cluster is bad. If the manual gauge matches what you were seeing on the dash gauge then my next step would be to pull the pan. If you are inclined and can do it yourself I highly recommend it. From here I would replace the pressure relief in the pan, the o-ring on the pickup tube into the oil pump and the pan gasket. Now before you pull the pan off I would also pull the windage tray off and manually inspect the bearing. This is whyI recommend doing this yourself. It’s a pain if you have 4x4 due to the front differential but you can verify the issue. Also check the pickup tube screen and make sure it’s not to dirty. Now put it back together add oil and start. At this point the issue should be fixed or you should have seen signs of bearing damage causing the low oil pressure. In that case it’s time for a rebuild or crate motor. Hopefully this can help someone in the future and please reply back to this post if you have questions.

A team of horses and a wagon.

I pull 2 trailers with electric brakes, one with mechanical surge brakes and one with no brakes. I use 'saved' ones for the 2 with electric brakes. These trailers 'live' outside (great lakes area). Haven't had connection issues that weren't corrected by cleaning the blades on the plugs. When they are being connected / used on a regular basis I've not had connection issues. The record of miles pulled and mpg for each trailer is a sorta neat feature, but what I really like the the 'trailer light test' function that cycles thru the brake/running/left/right light activations. Make it simple to do a light check without assistance (or a lot of walking).

Paws crossed for you!

Great news all! Looks like after waiting just over 11 months for my truck, looking like it will be delivered to the dealer next week, ready for me to pick it up by next Saturday.!!!! More details to come. Lee

Truck should have come with the necessary tube/funnel to use when adding fuel from a portable container. Filling the Tank With a Portable Gas Can If the vehicle runs out of fuel and must be filled from a portable gas can: 1. Locate the capless funnel adapter from inside the vehicle. 2. Insert and latch the funnel into the capless fuel system. 3. Remove and clean the funnel adapter and return to the storage location.

More direct observations from dynamic scanning ( note I have no way to data log nor do I care at this point). Experimenting still with 85 octane, 87 via mixing, and 91. Notable delta in timing retarding with 87 and more so with 91 vs more with 85 but not excessive. However it really depends on load and which of the 3 phases of mechanical cam setting. Low lift, high lift, AFM. AFM is really interesting and neutralizes overall timing to near 0. On two cylinders when AFM is engaged the RPM can be about 1500 at 65 MPH or 1750 or so at 60 mph. Using 88- 91 octane fuels allows the lower RPM AFM operation at lower speeds. With 87- 85 octane the RPM has to come up to maintain AFM # 2 and #3 cylinders deactivation but MPG is about the same. This engine is a marvel really. Lord help me if the 3 valve coolant switch ever sticks because cooling is really critical. On cold start coolant temps via scanner hit 165-175 nearly instantaneously. It takes a few minutes at lower RPM to read 201 degrees which is about normal operating temp fully warmed. Gauge cluster shows 210 F. MPG readings are unusually stable regardless of fuel octane used. I am seeing operating temps from 45F in the mountains to 80F in the valley. Winds are very high and blustery here so I pay attention to them and their effect. The New Mexico wildfires are literally 70-80 miles south of us right now so its a very unstable test environment. 26.2 mpg with mixed 60-65 mph cruise speeds on highway is consistent with 91 octane fuels. 26.2 kept showing on 40 mile legs regardless of wind azimuth, downhill or uphill in lower velocity winds. 25 with 87 octane 24 with 85 octane I did change out stock HD AC OEM air filter about 500 miles ago and MAF is free flowing to turbo. 27lbs/min at WOT test. Cruises at 3-4 lbs/in flow at speeds mentioned above. I THINK from what I am reading the HO version will REQUIRE 91 octane or at least some dealers are claiming that from what I see in internet. Will follow up with BlackO2Silverado oil analysis from to verify scanner and MPG observations, overall very happy with performance and value to date which is approaching 9000 miles on ODO.

Today!!

Hello. I purchased a frontrunner (two) jerry can holder (SKU: JCHO014) My jerry cans were purchased from jerrycan.com (Gelg). I simply bolted the tray onto the bed of my truck. You will have issues with the GMC/Chevy fuel cap/entry as there is an inner metal flap which is hard to keep open. The jerrycan.com spout is rubber/plastic (Gelg), which does not do well. I modified a VALPRO Long-Nose Flexible NATO Jerry Can Spout/Nozzle, Fits Wavian or VALPRO Euro Military Spec Cans (Olive Drab) to fit the Gelg jerry can by modifying the gasket. Cheers.

I’ve seen a migration towards more of a celebration of life rather than the whole viewing, funeral, graveyard service. Seeing people having to stand in line while people give condolences is excruciating for love ones. My wife’s grandparents donated their bodies. My father wanted to burned as he put it, make no damn fuss he said. My mother expressed the same. My wife and I are doing the same. The ashes what ever. Have a gathering if desired. Please use a photo of my 30s. Preferably with my wife.

https://v16-web.tiktokcdn-us.com/video/tos/useast5/tos-useast5-pve-0068-tx/9f4f4805ea8b4cc6aa0e6c190719411f/?a=1988&br=850&bt=425&cd=0|0|1|0&ch=0&cr=0&cs=0&cv=1&dr=0&ds=3&er=&expire=1652466643&ft=eXA4CH-qMyq8Zwh5qwe2Nl-Gfl7Gb&l=2022051312301801000200300200500600300006E7E0CA&lr=tiktok_m&mime_type=video_mp4&net=0&pl=0&policy=3&qs=0&rc=anE5NTQ6ZnRyOjMzNzgzM0ApPGlpPDZoM2U7NzhkM2Y4Nmc2XmlkcjQwbC5gLS1kLzZzc2JeLy81MmEuYy8vMi0uMTU6Yw%3D%3D&signature=5c72a5dc39d801d4aec351e9d34c7f79&tk=0&vl=&vr=

A few days ago I was bothered by having to re-live the sadness of losing a close friend. She died when gatherings were not allowed. Yesterday we went to her "celebration of life", several months after the fact The family asked that we don't wear black for this event. Time has tempered emotions and our departed friend was a colourful person My wife, a close mutual friend, and I dressed as if we were stereotypical Hawaiian tourists c/w leis. The officiator of the service singled us out during the ceremony and said in her 30 years of doing this she's never witnessed such joy and colour at a memorial service. It turned out to be a true celebration of this wonderful person's life. As we age we attend more of these events and think more and more about when it will be our turn to be the centre of attention. My wife and I have told our kids that a family meal in our memory is all that we want. Now that we've discovered that a celebration of life can actually be a fun event for your friends our thoughts are changing! Imagine going to a celebration for the joy, not because you have to!

Thought about Grumpy Bear, Donstar and some others when I saw this brand of lighter US made motorcycles online. At least they are trying to make it manufacturing in US. Chinese engines I think. https://www.janusmotorcycles.com/product/halcyon-250/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy530ktTc9wIVj-4YAh0jRQOmEAEYASAAEgITzfD_BwE

If you can look past the "4 cylinder sounds", it makes some sweet turbo noises and is a ballsy engine. If you haven't driven one, you should at least try one. A full crew cab short box moves very well with it under the hood. A regular cab should move even better. I took a used 2019 home from work, my 32 mile round trip I pulled 22.7mpg. That was 65mph most of the way home, 70-75mph going to work the next morning.

Yes, you truly are to have someone with those skills! Be thankful! They are fair and few now a days! I say the exact same thing with my buddy who tints windows. So many think "THEY CAN DO IT", yet when the final product comes out, its not impressive. I've seen so many pathetic attempts at welding up exhaust it would make you sick. That's why for me, the R&D Corsa or Borla puts into their products and they use high quality products that's backed by 1 million miles, it's kind of a now brainer. All you have to do is keep you receipt!!

Ouch! I hope all is well now.

I don't know if I would call Smokey's information outdated. It's more "Tune" specific TJay74. In fact your point is accurately based on this fact. Current technologies are not rigid their tune. They are adaptive as you note. And correct, a higher water temperature does all you say with all the results you list. Lower has the opposite effect to the degree the ECM is adaptive to and as someone noted in an earlier post you can exceed that tune with a 160 F if you live in the right area, thus climate. Why Katech and Reische Racing offer 174 / 170 F stats, respectively. 90% of the effect with zero need to retune. In Smokey's day this was not true. Tunes of the day actually removed what little flexibility there was from the tune. Locking or removing the vacuum advance plate in the distributor for example. In his world, stock car racing asphalt oval, even the mechanical advance was locked or very limited. 10W40 was also the rule of the day and viscosity is heat dependent. Got back 50 years before Smokey and advance was a leaver next to the steering wheel. Mixture was as well for some motors. Smokey's information can be useful if applied to the right situation. No sir, not outdated. Just not a common need for it. It's been awhile since a Winston Cup Gen 1 SBC has been raced at Talladega.

I often said maybe I was blessed with a great creative bender who understood drone. I’ve had everything from quads to cut outs. With my family business and customers I’ve had at least 100 exhaust done. My mothers 01 diesel and brothers 79 little red is still running old glass packs. Of course salted roads aren’t a problem. I still haven’t heard any exhaust make the cylinder deactivation sound good. My bender finally retired along with my desire for loud exhaust. I guess you can add new trucks to the list. Except the TRX. I may get a job to get one of those.

True on the taste. Exhaust rot. Come up to NY LOL. OE systems last the longest, cat back stainless hold up even better. Anything aluminized steel or steel will be gone in about 3 years. Walker, AP, Bosal, they don't last. Nothing wrong with a custom bent exhaust and some good mufflers to go with it, in my neck of the woods however, its finding a shop that actually bends and uses good stainless pipe. Honestly on drone, I think its muffler construction that plays a huge part as well. Small with low insulation is bad. I had a Magnaflow system on my 2012 and have a Corsa on my 2019. The muffler on the Corsa is 90% the same size as the OE muffler, zero drone, tons of killer sound. The Magnaflow that was on my 2012? Muffler was long but 1/2 as big as the Corsa one. It sounded great from outside, all it did was drone from 1500-2200rpm. Both the mag and the Corsa were the same size piping.

What happens if you re-gear the rear but not the front?

I recently posted a detailed thread in the mod forum on the torsion spring swap in case you are interested. The new front springs are $200 to 220 each on line, but shipping is a bit over $100 for two. The price was comparable ordered from my local dealer’s part department, and it was more convenient for me to pick them up from the dealer. I saved forum member MTU’s table of spring part numbers and had my dealer verify it before I ordered. I can post the table again if you need it. The swap took me 2.5 hours, but I had not jacked the truck up previously and a bunch of that time was spent figuring out how I wanted to jack and support it. I could do the job again in less than 90 minutes. Unlike the older trucks, the spring ends have a looser fit and won’t be stuck in place. Mine came right out. Adjusting the torsion keys doesn’t change the spring rate or ride stiffness - it just changes the front suspension height. I set mine to the exact same height as the original springs.

Another JR, what is the cost of the lighter front springs? Would it help to turn the torsion keys some to lower the front end without the swap? I have Sumo springs on the rear in place of the bump stops. This limits the squat by about 1/2 inch when hooked to 5th wheel.

Just picked up today. Removed rear badges. Need to find a shorty antenna that fits. The one I bought wouldn’t fit. future upgrades/mods tinted front windows Tonneau cover Cat back exhaust

couple of weeks ago when I went to Destin the lowest was 3.79 and the highest was 4.09. Heading to Ystone in July that will cost a bit more than was budgeted. The one thing is that I refuse to let gas prices control my camping trips. Life is to short.

That's what I'm hoping for. Thanks for your input. Actually makes me feel better.

Glowshift is pretty decent or just do the OEM gauge cluster swap and you are good to go

Advise that was given to me for living. Acquire what you need, not what you want. Don't be the first and don't be the last. Don't try to be the most popular or be the least. Be generous. Dance with the one you brought. Modesty in All Things Any person self honest will find this harder than it looks.

My exhaust guy put the ground on the exhaust while welding, never a problem. The last one was my 2014 my first was my first car in 1973. After 2014 who knows?

yep just disconnect the battery, most shops doing exhaust work don't bother and have no problems but all it takes is that 1 time and you will wish you took the time to do it

Disconnect the battery when welding on vehicles. That's all I ever did.

German spec.

I've been a fan of the factory controller for the last 10-12 years. If you pull multiple trailers, the trailering app can save your preferred setup for each of them. It will also track miles pulled, fuel economy with each, maintenance stuff (if you add it) and so on. Also has a 'guest' setting for pulling trailers that you don't want to add all the info for.

Factory all day. It works with the Stabilitrak system in the truck to control trailer sway. If you have the Advance Trailering Package, you can have the truck remember the gain settings for your trailer and up to 5 total trailers.

OK Boomer, I haven't read the article in full yet but flame front travel with modern DI engines is probably more of an issue that you mentioned. No one is worried with modern metallurgy breaking pistons or rods in street engines. Curtain area altering the frustum " portion of a cone or pyramid which remains after its upper part has been cut off by a plane parallel to its base, or which is intercepted between two such planes" so that in a modern engine just whacking off valve seat angle or even piston dome is not enough. Well maybe planing a flathead engine and doing a valve job isn't gonna work on a grossly NOx making timing advanced DI VVT OHV turbo engine. Oh and run on 85-87 octane fuels. The 2.7L Turbo L3B is awesome in this giant of a truck.

Give it to my wife. She will cut that in half.

Waited 6 months for this beauty: 2021 Silverado LTZ 6.2L standard bed.

This should be a buy up option like the ford and ram have. Why not ?

I actually found myself speeding several times today because the engine is so smooth and quiet over 50 you don't realize how fast you are going. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk