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A direct fit transmission dipstick is available for 2020-2023 HDs using part numbers from a 2019 model. You will need the following: Dipstick tube: 24265546 Dipstick (indicator): 24271875 Seal/grommet for dipstick tube: 15796802 (1) Flange Nut or lock/flat washer & nut: M8-1.25 Start by crawling under the truck and removing the heat shield between the pass. side catalytic converter and the transmission. Use a 10mm socket (if you can find one ) for the front bolt and a 13mm deep socket for the rear flange nut. A 1/4 inch drive ratchet works well in these tight spaces, but a box end wrench will do as well. Next, dampen a paper or shop towel and reach up and clean around the area of the dipstick tube boss to limit dirt and grime from entering the transmission during tube install. Now, raise the center pin in the factory installed plug to prepare for removal. I was able to use my fingers but a small flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool would work if yours is stuck. Next, we are going to pry up the remainder of the factory installed plug. I used a trim removal tool but a flathead screwdriver would work as well, just be sure not to gouge or damage the boss area. The factory plug has multiple ridges on it to keep it seated so it might take some working. After a good pry with my trim tool the entire plug shot into orbit in one motion. Now the fun part. Getting the tube to drop down just right can be tricky, especially as there are a few wires to dodge on the way down. I found that angling the fill tube towards the driver side and twisting as it went down from the top was the best way. Avoid jamming the tube with force that could bend it, tear the heat blanket on the firewall, or sever an existing wire. Use patience (and a step stool) and you'll get it. Once you've got the tube down, grab your seal/grommet and give it a light coat of Dexron VI ATF to ease installation. Now take the seal/grommet and slide it on to the dipstick tube. Move the tube over to the boss and slide it in, making sure that you have achieved a full contact/seal with the transmission. A cellphone or mirror can help here. Align the tube bracket slot with the extended stud from the transmission bellhousing. Using one hand to give some downward pressure on the tube, work a M8-1.25 flange nut onto the stud. My local parts house was out of flange nuts so I used a lock washer, flat washer, and nut combo. Keep downward pressure on the tube while you tighten with the 13mm deep socket. Reinstall the heat shield that was removed previously. Almost done! Grab your dipstick and give it a light lube around the seal area with Dexron VI... ...and send it home! Now as far as a proper hot check, I've always used a minimum transmission temperature of 145'F. The GM check procedure for these trucks says 86'F-122'F, but that's using the inane check plug thingy on the back of the transmission pan. Previous to that design, the hot check temp for Dexron VI was always 145'F min to 190'F max (ATF expands with heat). Perhaps there is someone out there with a service manual for a 2019 and can verify, but there you go folks. This truck should have had one of these sticks from the factory, and we HD users can debate with the non-believers (they do exist) why below or in different threads, but luckily we have a factory fit solution using original GM parts with about ~$60 bucks and some elbow grease! Special thanks to @64BAwagon for doing the leg work on the part numbers and the initial install. I found his thread (on a diesel site) while pondering if this was possible and his previous work made it a breeze. Get to dippin!

Unedited pics for now, but it's a 4/6 drop with 22x10 MRR T228's

Not sure if it's bragging or too poor to afford a new one. Just hit 300K on 2014 GMC All Terrain CC 4WD 5.3v8. Truck is basically stock. I purchased it in 2016 with 51K on it. I immediately did oil change with Edge motor oil. Have used Edge the entire time changing at DIC stated intervals. A time or two I have had low oil message on DIC. Either went in for top off or just got oil changed. Wix filters were used up until 3 oil changes ago and my local oil shop was bought out by "Take 5" Now I have no clue what filter or oil they use. They stated it was equivelent to edge...I'm sure it's probably junk and I'm looking for a new oil shop. Part failures that I can remember: Air condenser cooler went out at 115k. I replaced it myself and I guess I broke a clip at the trans coolant line. That clip let go about 15k later and dumped tranny fluid all over I75. I buttoned it all up and then at 140k Tranny went out (was probably my fault) A/C delco tranny in at 140k. Brake pads at around 180k, Starter around 200k, Another transmission at 236k that was covered by A/C delco as the replacement had 100k warranty and didn't make it. Second Air condenser at 245k. Front pads and rotors around 250k. about 4 sets of wiper blades, 2 batteries. I have a grounding issue that I think is in the negative battery cable. Starting to get intermittent no start/dead battery issues from time to time....re-adjust negative battery cable and it starts right up. With all that said. it's been a great truck. I've been from Mid GA to Colorado and South Florida to DC is this damn thing. Also, during 2021 it basically sat for a year except for vacation trips (so maybe 7000 put on truck in 2021) I had a company vehicle. So, I'd like to sell it for 37k that I paid for it in 2016. It's definitely reliable. I'm wanting a 24 2500 so bad...but dang they are spendy.

Family time. Towing our camper to wind creek state park in bama with my wife and my aunt and uncle. Making great memories. And our gasser doing it with ease with tons of room. We are so lucky. This is what life is about. Making great memories.

I've been holding off on sharing my thoughts until I had enough miles on my new truck to formulate an opinion. Here's some background: my previous truck was a 2020 3500 SRW High Country 4wd with the Duramax. I've been driving Duramax trucks for the last 15 years, so I'm very familiar with their capabilities. My new truck is a 2024 3500 SRW High Country 4wd with the 6.6 Gas/10spd combo. The only difference in options is the 2024 has a sunroof and the 2020 did not. The sticker price on the 2020 was just over 76k, and the sticker on the 2024 is $77,540.00. I've put just under 3000 miles now on the new truck. Let me get this out of the way right up front: I really liked the Duramax. There is no comparison in power, and in no scenario will the 6.6 gas/10spd compete with the Duramax for power. Torque is king when it comes to towing. That said, the 6.6 gas/10spd does get the job done. I've towed just over 10k (the same trailer I towed with the Duramax many times) and this is my comparison since I'm very familiar with it. The biggest discrepancy I've noticed is passing power. I'm learning to adjust my expectations on how much space I need to complete a pass. I don't want to come off as I think the truck is a slouch because it's not. I'm very impressed with the combo and how it seems to stay in the power band. I haven't noticed any violent downshifts to keep the load moving. The gasser seems to hold the speed very well, even on moderate hills. I'll update more on this once I get some more miles and towing under my belt. Driving around unloaded, the gasser is great. The transmission shifts great. My response to others that have said the 10spd is a bit busy is that it's related to the tranny learning early on. I had a little of that at first, but it's already smooth as silk. Additionally, it seems to be getting more powerful. I'm not sure if that's just me getting used to the feel of the truck or if it's reality. I haven't done any scientific 0-60 runs. Now onto mileage. I've read reports from gas owners claiming up to 20MPG's. I don't see that ever happening and I'm not sure how that would even be accomplished short of driving downhill with the wind at your back everywhere you go. The best I've seen is 17 with an average (on the DIC) of 11.4. A full tank shows a range of around 550 miles. The Duramax would sometimes flirt with a 700-mile range. Maybe the 6spd was better for MPG's? Maybe the 10spd will go up once the truck loosens up a bit. We'll see. Bottom line: I really like this truck, and it has plenty of power to handle whatever you need it to. This post was more for any current diesel owner considering the switch to gas. You just need to adjust your expectations. What you give up in towing power, you gain in cheaper fuel, and knowledge that you are driving the most reliable version of the GM HD (even though I had minimal issues with the Duramax). BUT this gas/10spd combo will get it done. Plus, with how crazy expensive these trucks are getting, you save $9390 by sticking with the gas motor. Lastly, you get to avoid the filthy diesel pumps, dragging diesel into your truck where the previous guy managed to spill a gallon of fuel and filling up DEF.

Finally completed the hidden winch install while retaining my factory bumper. It took waaaaay to much time and effort so I don't know if I would do it again but I do like knowing it's simple, clean, and unique since I only know of one other truck that has done it as well. I haven't had a chance to cut off the hook and add my Factor 55 cable attachment, or clean the cut around the fairlead, but those are next. Please forgive the dirty appearance, it gets used like a truck.

Great...more for you to keep bitching about.....

I installed a BDS 6”(4” over stock) on my ‘22 Trail Boss this weekend. Added 18” x 9.5 -18 offset Black Rhino Arsenal wheels and 35” Goodyear Duratrac tires. Looks pretty tough if I do say so myself. Sorry for the dirty pic, but it’s been raining all weekend.

Picked this beauty up yesterday. Exterior-wise is still very similar to '21, but the interior is just WOW. 5.3 10spd (NO DFM)

People generally only come here to ask questions about issues they are having with their vehicle, so I figured I would make a post about how decent mine has been. 2020 5.3 8-Speed CC Z71 - I've had the tuck for a hair over 3 years and finally clipped 100,000 miles on my way to work the other morning. The truck has been a trooper and has held up well so I have no real complaints about its durability. The engine and transmission are both as smooth as the day I purchased the truck, and I cant really say anything negative about the power train as a whole. Overall, it has been a good purchase up to this point and I hope it continues all the way up to 200,000 miles(my personal break even point on a truck). Repairs: Rear Window Leak - Factory Replaced the rear window Serpentine Belt - Threw the serpentine belt at 40k and 80k miles(I keep a spare with me) Transfer Case Leak - The only powertrain leak I've had was from the transfer case input seal that was noticed around 85k miles. I was able to replace the seal myself which took an afternoon to do. Shocks - The Rancho shocks were shot at 20K miles with fluid visibly leaking. I replaced them with Eibach shocks and the install took half of an afternoon to do. I have a spare set of new-in-box Eibach shocks ready to replace these when they wear out, but I have 80K miles on them right now and they still feel great. Maintenance: Transfer Case Fluid - Drained and refilled around 85K+ miles with Mobile 1 Blue Label Oil and Filter - Castrol® EDGE® with Fluid TITANIUM Technology(0W-20) and FRAM Ultra Synthetic 20,000 Mile Protection. I usually do the oil and filter change before the indicator gets to 10% life remaining(around 6,500 - 7,500 miles depending on usage). Air Filter -AC Delco OEM replacement swapped according to the GM recommended change indicator somewhere in the 90K+ miles range. Tires - The Goodyear DuraTracs and Bridgestone Duelers have been great, with the Duratracs finally getting to noisy for me. Considering I'm at 100K miles and have only had to purchase a single set of replacement tires, I think both brands have held up well. I will most likely be purchasing a new set around September/October since these are getting low enough to where I wouldn't want my wife driving around on them in the winter. Upcoming Maintenance: Transmission Thermal Bypass Valve(TBV) - It's sitting on my work bench ready to be installed, I just haven't had the time to do it. I'll most likely make a YouTube video of the install and fluid flush when I do.

When I grew up the average house was around 1200 Square feet with one bathroom and 3 bedrooms. The average truck was a two doors with a radio and heater. The family cruiser was a 4 door car that was smaller than the average truck. That the MSRP was about the price of an economy car today. A family did well with one pay check. Mom stayed home and kids behaved in school. I had a bicycle, a bat and glove. In the summer I worked on a local farm and mowed our lawn. About once a month we had pizza or KFC. We all watched one tv together and didn’t worry about a risqué event. Kids didn’t have multiple week day events that the parents shuffled them to out of guilt. Because that’s what the everyone did. Followed by a drive through then home to bed. On Sunday we went to church. On Monday we pledged to our flag and said a silent prayer before class. Teachers weren’t trying to feel up students or change their sex. They taught history and respect. And our cars fit in parking lots.

With our 2022 2500 gasser Custom model we tow a 2023 Grand Design Imagine 2800BH. We absolutely love our camper and the way our gasser tows it. Amazing all around. Our camper weighs 7000lbs on the axles and 1000lbs on the hitch. I only have one gripe when towing it and that is it can get bouncy on the rear end at times with huge dips in the road. I've read Bilstein shocks will take care of that so more research to do there. But all in all, the beast tows it like a champ. Trans. temp never goes above 182' in the hottest of weather and we average 8.5mpg under most all conditions. We love our beast and our camper!!!

1.) The converter issue is a design flaw. It's not just a bad batch of them. When it fails the debris takes out the rest of the unit. This is never just a 'replace the converter' issue when they fail. It WILL kill the pump and valve-body as well as trash the clutches and bearings. New pumps are hard to come by. Few shops will re-machine them. Fewer still get it right. I own a 2015 with this transmission BUT behind a V6 that uses a different captive clutch converter. Failure rates of this transmission behind a V6 are nearly nonexistent. IF my truck had a V8 I would have replaced the converter with a Billet clutch unit like the one below the day it became available. CADILLAC, CHEVY, GMC Torque Converter 77-JMBXSD (floridatorqueconverters.com) Here's an explanation of the issue from the people that make the parts used to modify them: 6L80, 6L90 Transmissions: Consider an Updated Converter in Your Next Rebuild | Sonnax 2.) As @rav3 notes, keeping check on heat is huge in these units. The "brains" are in the fluid. Use the kit. Flip the pill. Use the new GM 70C/158F thermostat but get rid of the 192 F unit that's on it now. Monitor you temps afterwards. If it won't stay under 160F then you need more cooler as well. You can find one with a Google search. Improved Racing, Setrab, MHX, Mocal, Mishimoto, Hayden, B&M and Derale come to mind. 3.) Fluid and filter changes. Use the severe schedule. 45K mile fluid swaps minimum. I do 25K. This is a pain the first time as the pan hasn't a drain. There are several manufactures that make pans with drains, or you can have one fitted to the existing pan. I use an 8-quart PML alloy pan. They have a factory sizes 6 quart. B&M has one. There may even be a steel pan by now I don't know about. Look around. AC-Delco filter is fine. They are all dog and cat catchers. About 100 microns. PML GM 6L80, 6L80E Deep Transmission Pan (yourcovers.com) 4.) Use a better fluid. Red Line, AMSOIL...... Something PAO or PAO/POE not mineral based. First four are my 'have to do' list. 5.) SONNAX Zip Kit 6.) Blackbear tune There's the 'wish list'.

Got all my chrome wrapped to paint match, pinstripe delete and black badges. Looks so much better.

Finally got some time to put the engine back together. First round turns out the machine shop didn’t give the main bearing enough clearances and it was too tight… wiped out the bearings within 150-200 miles…. Took the block back and had them open up the clearances. Also threw in a C5R chain and Katech oil pump. Hopefully within the next few weeks, I’ll have some more time to throw it back in the truck. Trans also got rebuilt with Circle D lvl 4 and Sonnax zip kit. The converter also came back from circle D for a refresh and new clutches. Driveshaft is also back from performance driveline getting balanced and looked over again. Can’t wait to have this truck back on the road. (Forgot to take pictures of all the goodies inside the engine. Doh)

I feel like this is his version of facebook or whatever, always gotta vent about something.

Picked up my new truck yesterday. 2022 Sierra 2500HD SLE 6.6 gas. I like this truck. That being said, I'm already ordering upgrades. I was one of the lucky ones. 3 months order to pickup. While I was there a guy was picking up his AT4 that he ordered in December.

Bought and installed the color matched bumper yesterday afternoon. Before After

Years ago I was a moderator at Clubtitan.org....did it for many years.. Had a blast helping others with their trucks because when the Titan came out, it was a challenge for sure...but this forum is different. I see many people stepping up to help others...and that makes me proud. Always help others if you can...That's always been my motto and always will be until I take my last breath...Have a blast, help others in the process, share you knowledge without ever looking for a reward. Knowledge is power, share it all the time...trust me, it will make you feel good inside and want to help even more.....

Well. Plenty of us here are more than willing to help. It gets a bit harder when those that ask for help don't provide enough detail or the right details. I know that I asked if you have the actual codes and could post them here as the codes are a diagnostic aid that can help others and myself on here try to steer you in the right direction. Instead, you seem to be getting defensive and are now quoting a random googled source. A bad catalyst will NOT cause a flashing check engine light. A flashing check engine light indicates a failure or issue that can lead to damaged catalysts, not flashing light = bad catalyst. If you keep driving it flashing? Yea, you can get to that point. If you don't have a P0420 code or P0430 code, its 99.9% not a catalyst issue. So. What were the exact codes you have? Not just "misfire on 3 and 5", what were the code numbers? Was it more than just those two? Do you have any knocking, tapping or ticking noises? Bad camshafts occur in these engines sometimes and bad lobes can cause misfires. 3 and 5 aren't AFM cylinders however there has been valve spring failures on these engines. The 14-19 trucks are known to have fuel injectors fail. Bad injectors can for sure cause an active misfire. Have you had an injector balance test run?

Free gas cap. Was doing an oil change on another vehicle and thought the cap might fit the Silverado.. Bam! it is 99% perfect fit, the plastic will conform to the inlet,takes about half turn to tighten.

Fall just getting underway here. Along LaSalle County 5 at the Vermillion River near Lenore Illinois. Todays drive.

Joining this thread.

Red Rock Dam, Northern Ontario

Finally finished putting the engine back together. Will be shoving it back into the truck this weekend. GPI drop-in pistons / rods combo L86 crank ARP main and head studs BTR .660 dual springs CHE trunnions Cam Motion custom LT turbo cam AFP engine mounts

They do, it is not speculation, those of us who pay attention have witnessed it. Your high compression engines knock/ping while driving around town on that 87 swill. You cannot hear it. You take off from a light, the motor knocks and the computer pulls timing. You go to pass a guy, even without downshifting, the motor knocks and the computer pulls timing. 1000 more times on your trip to the mall and back. You don't think that will take toll day after day, month after month, year after year? I don't know more than everyone else, I paid attention and learned it here. You can too if you do your research. Last time at the drags I took a video from inside the cab, from the stands and took a Snapshot with my Tech-2 to show you guys that the motors do knock and you cannot always hear it. I am not tech savvy enough put three videos into one but someday my kids might slow down and help me post it for y'all. Myself and others have posted videos from youtube of 6.2s that came apart because of prolonged use of low octane gasoline.

The frames are the same. Flint can only handle 15 different frames. The 20 series crew cab standard box is slightly different from 30 series crew cab standard box. The difference is the 20 series frame does not have the fasteners in the frame for the overloads. GM makes so many 20 series crew standard boxes it can save a few hundred thousand dollars by removing the fasteners. #iworkforGM

Based on this post and the towing report by @the8rotor, I pulled the trigger today. Gonna miss my "little" half ton crew cab. This thing is enormous... Will report on towing the boat and RV once I get a few miles on.

Here pics of the truck with newly polished and powdering done, also wheel lights, rocklights and star headliner done

Yes, its the Allison 10L1000. No, its not the EXACT same part #. Gas is 24294430, diesel is 24297785 and its about $1000 difference in price. Gas 10L1000 has a different torque converter, different clutch pack p/ns (so probably a clutch or two less per pack than the L5P). More to add, lots of the internal hard parts appear to be the same #s as well.

Put ole ton dually away for hail and tornadoes last night. Opened up this morning to finish planting and was surprised. Comparing a 90 3500 to a 23 2500. No wonder I'm feeling old getting in the new trucks.

I got my new tires mounted today. 35x12.5x18 BFG KO2. Love the new look!

Been a minute since I've done anything to my truck other than an regular maintenance. FINALLY, after 2 years of searching locally, found a OEM All Terrain grille. The cost (only $120) was justified by the condition.. lots of deep scratches down past the paint, which took me several hours to correct. Learned a lot during the process but happy with the outcome, even after dropping it and cracking the freshly refinished bezel . Luckily the crack is on the bottom and tough to see. Then had to move the light bar mount so that took awhile to fabricate.

For the 1st time ever I cleaned the inside of the windshield with a microfiber cloth instead of paper towels. I can see! What the heck took me so long to figure that one out?!?! I have seen the light and now know the error of my ways.

Since when do you need to pass someone doing 30 over the limit? I can two lane pass someone doing 10 over pretty easy lol. Maybe it just really gets to people that they can't get to their destination 3 minutes faster. I drive for my job, so I see this happen all the time. I end up meeting them at the next stop light when they pass me and I honk my horn the second the light turns green because they are now slowing me down.....

Got bored and stuck some black vinyl on my winter wheels to give them the look of split spokes

Installed replacement Fog lamp housings as mine was hazed and installed 2022 AT4 wheels a few weeks ago. Yotaman

Finally got the new wheels and tires on my truck today. On a side note, does anyone know of a good speedometer calibrator I could purchase?

Upgraded the cluster to an High Country Digital one from White Auto. Install took like 30 minutes at home, plug and play. Unlocked a few new features. Definitely recommended getting this https://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/product/ios-to-iou-navigation-upgrade/

Remove your heavy tires and watch the mileage climb back up. 12-12.5 wide tires will eat away at fuel mileage. And if they are mud terrains with huge lugs for tread, forget about fuel mileage. I bet you are at least 40lbs heavier per corner than a stock wheel/tire combo. Those 33's probably weight 60-70lbs each and the aftermarket rims can be heavy as well. Stock 20's in a non load range E are only 40-43lbs for most tires.

Those Western Mountains are a whole 'nuther game compared to Eastern hills. That said, I've noticed a difference even cresting the lowly Catskills in my 442, only 2250ft above sea level. It wasn't the fuel, it was the air. The higher elevation is why less octane is needed than at sea level. Denver for example, a little higher than Gillette, has air that is 82% as dense as at sea level, humidity being equal. This is where forced induction engines shine, because the intake charge is kept at roughly the same air density by the hair dryer. Because the engine is an air pump, the NA engine is only making ~82% of its power as at sea level, all else being equal. Water boils about a degree lower for every 500 ft of elevation increase. The thinner air at elevation has less ability to absorb heat via the radiator; all of these leads to lower available power to climb the grade, along with more heat and less ability to remove it. A decade ago, I towed a 4000 lb U-haul trailer 450 miles with my 110 hp '84 GMC S15 with manual transmission. Even mild grades that an unladen vehicle would never notice had me dropping into 3rd and putting the hazards on at 40 mph in a 65 mph. I've always operated on the principal that a trailer combo should be the slowest vehicle on the road; going slower than traffic, no matter how dense, means one will always have a clear lane ahead of them, important when considering increased stopping distances. Slow down, keep it in 3rd or 4th and watch your RPM and fluid temps, not the speedometer. Do 35 mph going up the grade and turn on your hazards if you need to; I've never understood "needing" to keep up with traffic at the expense of abusing the machinery. I'm sure you'd rather make it home, uneventfully, than blow a coolant hose, head gasket, spin a bearing, wipe the marginal torque converter, etc.

'Coal rollers' thinking it's funny to smoke out whoever they decide to target killed it for the rest.

finally got around to getting the builtright bedside rack system together. comes with absolutely ZERO instructions, not a big deal but assembling some of the quickgrip stuff it would be nice to have a general idea of how it is supposed to be, there website has some install guides but none for chevy I have a bedliner installed so it has complicated things a little bit, the bottom attachment is not ideal it is a U shaped bracket but should be a u-bolt or a j bolt or at least have a L leg so you can turn it and snug it up that way, the way it is it now it just binds up so I bought some longer bolts and sleeves at the hardware and will finish it up in the morning. I may end getting a u-bolt and drilling a couple holes in the rack I could not find one that would fit the existing holes

I am loving the new 22 AT4. It came in last Tuesday, first pic is after I picked it up and drove to work next 2 are after I had the truck tinted.