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Wait for it, 0W-16 is coming soon to a GM engine. and 0W-8 is not far behind.....

...and that is the 3 beep burst that warns you that the key fob may have been left in the truck if you leave the truck running and exit the vehicle. Please tell me that there is a way to disable that very annoying function!

I don't have this issue. But I have the key fob reminder disabled. You can disable the key fob left in vehicle upon exit. It's under vehicle in the settings.

Picked mine up Aug 24, ordered Apr 15. Not a bad wait at all in the grand scheme of things. My first GMC in 10 years and my first diesel ever. Loving this truck!

No, but there is a heat shield that needs to be removed to access the starter and the electrical connections.

I will check them out and see what I can come up with.

probaly ream it out and machine an insert and add a retension clip to reuse what you got, otherwise might have to buy entire cable from gm

Don't know why you want to leave the truck running and leave but anyway when I am hooking up my trailer and the truck is running I just leave the driver's door open a little it doesn't beep.

Riddle me the design dynamic vis range for GM cam phasing, VVT, AFM operations, in each of the engine designs? DEXOS limits and requirements was designed to try to corner a stable dynamic vis for GM engines. Brake fluids are mostly glycol and ether based... Brakes and clutch slave cylinders using a glycol ether usually. Not germane to this discussion. We are talking about an engine oil to act as a reliable hydraulic fluid with contaminants being added at every cylinder firing. Clean engine oils aren't clean after a few cycles of rotation and fire. VVT is what drives EGR now, raw fuel, carbon, poor quality fuel additive polymers, and the GM loving nitrous oxides are added into engine oil almost as a NOx wick that will acidify the oil and depending on chemistry thicken or thin it. Cold start performance is completely changed by by these contaminants. There's a battle between acidity, nitration, oxidation, sulfation, and anti wear additives being depleted at a high rate even when the PPM of them in oil analysis shows their leftovers as high. Why Nick tests for AW in FTIR and does not rely on just the wear and additives metals testing. Once a desired hydraulic range is set by GM they moderate that with ECM sensing and controlling via cam phaser solenoids. Tell me what happens when that desired hydraulic range is lower or higher than the ECM can control for. You saw this is spades with your 2.4. Every VVT cam phased engine is susceptible to this issue. The OP is seeing this issue in his modern 4.3 I suspect.

I can name several gas and diesel vehicles that got mid and upper 20 miles per gallon from the 80s and 90s. The trick ponies there’re producing today with cylinder deactivation as an example. Aren’t for the end user’s fuel number. Across the board for the manufacturers it trickles up the numbers for them. There’re dilemma is instead of producing naturally high fuel mileage sedans with low profits. Their aim is to push high profit large trucks and SUVs that are bricks through the air. And somehow in a controlled environment getting decent fuel mileage out of them. The new scam is electric trucks. Another way to meet their over all mileage numbers. That have little use for the masses. I love trucks. I’m not paying a 20K up charge for a luxury truck. When I can have a high fuel mileage luxery car that hauls as$ and a good used truck for the same money.

64 Chevy II , 230 .got 26mpg and passed emission test for new cars in the 80's with no problem, granted the emission tests were pretty primative back then

I see no reason why they wouldn't fit.

What? Okay a slave cylinder will move slowly when the oil is like -30F and viscosity is 60,000 cP. Pushing peanut butter instead of hot honey, but the difference of even 20 cSt at 212 F would not even be measurable. The difference between an SAE 20 min and an SAE 60 max. There is more difference between 100 F and 212 F. More difference between running an oil cooler maintaining 190 F and unregulated at 250 F. C'mon..... Besides. Timing LIMITS are controlled by the mechanical RANGE and not how quick the fluid moves. Pressure isn't influenced by viscosity. A 1 cP cup of water will transmit the same PRESSURE as a steel rod. This isn't a system pushing fluid through a sub-fractional orifice. It's pumping oil through the Holland tunnel balance against a spring. Bet I get the same hydraulic PRESSURE at -25F as I do at 125F air temp. Gezz, don't tell my brakes this. They will quit working. Note viscosity vs temp of brake fluid below.

Hell no to the Nitto Ridge Grappler, if you want a tire that sucks ass in the snow, then go with those. The Recon Grappler is better but still not super ideal for all of what winter has to offer. Falken Wild Peak AT's, Toyo Open Country AT3's, BFG Trail Terrains or the Michelin Defender LTX M/S are my suggestions. I work in the tire business, those are some of best you got in a highway/all weather tire.

About a month later and 850 miles later still really enjoying the truck I waited since April for.

I never thought the Michelin Defender LTX looked like a tire on a Buick. They look pretty good on my High Country IMO.

It's because this forum is likely skewed to enthusiasts. I'm certain the 5.3 sells more than the 6.2 in the real world.

My new toy

I can see in the pic it’s backwards. It says “front” on the right side, facing the cab. The front of the engine is towards the grill. You have to turn the gasket 180 degrees, and flip it upside down. So where it says front will be towards the fans, and you won’t be able to see the word “front”. It’s blocking a coolant passage causing that symptom

Amazing architecture, 1 example. Chateau de Chantilly, just stunning IMO.

Haven't done much since doing the grille and bumper, may start saving up for a procharger or cam

All, The linkage outside of the transmission has a green rubber or some type of material that has deteriorated. This causes the linkage to fall off the shifter at the transmission. I have attached a pick of what I am speaking of. I do not plan to purchase a new cable from shifter to Trans if it cn be avoided. I'd like to see about finding the part # for the green peice I need to replace. Does anyone know of a parts diagram that has these parts in it?

i think the next annoying thing with the autostop trucks will be when you go to replace a failed starter, did GM re-locate the starter instide the trans bellhousing? so now you have to pull the transmission to change a starter..