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No you won't! It's a wicked sickness that has no cure, especially when you've gone as far as you have already...

Go pick it up Monday in AZ....had the Ram for 7 months and it's been flawless tbh but just never liked it....it just felt really cheap to me for whatever reason......2022 refresh RST Z71 in dark ash....

Few more thing and I’ll be done upgrading

Better view of the brake lines, did have to add a washer 1/8” thick to get the calipers centered with rotor. One washer per bolt

The saga is finally over. Long story short... GM Exec Referral told me they would give me $5000 towards a new truck. I told them that was unacceptable. I was able to contact a GM VP who agreed to give me $15,000 towards my new truck. I also found a dealer willing to sell me a new truck just under sticker. I traded this one in, GM paid 15 and I paid 15 and I am now a proud owner of a 3.0L Duramax 2022 refresh. Let's hope this one works better!

A direct fit transmission dipstick is available for 2020-2023 HDs using part numbers from a 2019 model. You will need the following: Dipstick tube: 24265546 Dipstick (indicator): 24271875 Seal/grommet for dipstick tube: 15796802 (1) Flange Nut or lock/flat washer & nut: M8-1.25 Start by crawling under the truck and removing the heat shield between the pass. side catalytic converter and the transmission. Use a 10mm socket (if you can find one ) for the front bolt and a 13mm deep socket for the rear flange nut. A 1/4 inch drive ratchet works well in these tight spaces, but a box end wrench will do as well. Next, dampen a paper or shop towel and reach up and clean around the area of the dipstick tube boss to limit dirt and grime from entering the transmission during tube install. Now, raise the center pin in the factory installed plug to prepare for removal. I was able to use my fingers but a small flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool would work if yours is stuck. Next, we are going to pry up the remainder of the factory installed plug. I used a trim removal tool but a flathead screwdriver would work as well, just be sure not to gouge or damage the boss area. The factory plug has multiple ridges on it to keep it seated so it might take some working. After a good pry with my trim tool the entire plug shot into orbit in one motion. Now the fun part. Getting the tube to drop down just right can be tricky, especially as there are a few wires to dodge on the way down. I found that angling the fill tube towards the driver side and twisting as it went down from the top was the best way. Avoid jamming the tube with force that could bend it, tear the heat blanket on the firewall, or sever an existing wire. Use patience (and a step stool) and you'll get it. Once you've got the tube down, grab your seal/grommet and give it a light coat of Dexron VI ATF to ease installation. Now take the seal/grommet and slide it on to the dipstick tube. Move the tube over to the boss and slide it in, making sure that you have achieved a full contact/seal with the transmission. A cellphone or mirror can help here. Align the tube bracket slot with the extended stud from the transmission bellhousing. Using one hand to give some downward pressure on the tube, work a M8-1.25 flange nut onto the stud. My local parts house was out of flange nuts so I used a lock washer, flat washer, and nut combo. Keep downward pressure on the tube while you tighten with the 13mm deep socket. Reinstall the heat shield that was removed previously. Almost done! Grab your dipstick and give it a light lube around the seal area with Dexron VI... ...and send it home! Now as far as a proper hot check, I've always used a minimum transmission temperature of 145'F. The GM check procedure for these trucks says 86'F-122'F, but that's using the inane check plug thingy on the back of the transmission pan. Previous to that design, the hot check temp for Dexron VI was always 145'F min to 190'F max (ATF expands with heat). Perhaps there is someone out there with a service manual for a 2019 and can verify, but there you go folks. This truck should have had one of these sticks from the factory, and we HD users can debate with the non-believers (they do exist) why below or in different threads, but luckily we have a factory fit solution using original GM parts with about ~$60 bucks and some elbow grease! Special thanks to @64BAwagon for doing the leg work on the part numbers and the initial install. I found his thread (on a diesel site) while pondering if this was possible and his previous work made it a breeze. Get to dippin!

I took delivery of my 2022 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT with the Bose HD system two weeks ago. I was not very impressed with the Bose system so I decided to start upgrading the speakers first to see how it sound before considering adding an amplifier. So far I have replaced my front door 6x9's and back door 6 1/2's speakers with the JL Audio C1-690x and JL Audio C1-650x speakers. So far using the stock Bose amplifier these speakers sound 100x better. More crisp and adds some more base to the system. These really bring the sounds alive when you turn it up. The only issue which will be handled today is the dash speakers. They overpower these new door speakers at lower volume due to the doors being 4ohm vs Bose's lower OHM. I did decide to order the Kenwood KFC-X2C speakers to replace my dash speakers over the weekend which come today. These should complete the sound system and give a better balance along with a more crisp sound. I will add to this review tomorrow once they are installed. So far the JL Audio C1's are an excellent upgrade using the factory amplifier but If you go this route expect to upgrade the dash since it will not sound right til you crank it plus the dash Bose just ruins the overall sound experience IMO. Very muffled sound. Sounds like someone put a towel over a great sounding speaker. How they had no tweeter in this speaker basket is beyond me. The original dash speakers really ruin the overall sound of the system and honestly Bose and GM should be a shamed that they put such crap speakers in these expensive trucks. I spent $70k on this SLT and have had other vehicles for far less money that sounds better. This is not an HD system as they call it and other manufactures like Ford and RAM have worked with better companies to put a lot better sound system into their vehicles. I think Bose is done in my book for speakers. The fact that this have no tweeters in them at all in this day of age is a shame. Ether Bose needs to up their game or GM needs to find a better solution with someone else as a upgraded sound system. I would pay for a HK upgrade or better. Either way this is my two cents on what I feel so far was a very cheap upgrade given all in cost for 3 sets were under $500.00 and works great with the stock Bose amplifier. UPDATE: I added the Kenwood KFC-X2C dash speakers and all I can say is wow what an upgrade. Everything sounds sooo much better. It really completed the system. I feel adding a amplifier to really tune it right is the next step but I would say this is a 8/10 upgrade with the factory HD Bose amplifier. I highly recommend this setup to anyone looking to send under $500 bucks to upgrade speakers. All in all it took me about 2 1/2 hours to do the setup and Crutchfield gives you all the directions to do so.

I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes. Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote. Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue.

Thanks for the reply swathdiver. It looks like a Tech-2 would be handy to have, as I plan on keeping this vehicle for another 5 years (cost of a new Suburban is ridiculous). I'll purchase one of the chinese knockoffs and try it out. In the meantime, I've ordered the Dorman kit that comes with a new keyless fob & programmer for under $70. I'm going to assume if that doesn't work, I need the RCDLR. If I had a Tech-2, would I be able to program the RCDLR myself, or is that beyond the skill level of a backyard mechanic? -Jsdirt, unfortunately GM removed the ability to program the remotes via the DIC in 2010, so my 2012 doesn't have that feature.

What an amazing closing lap move by the watermelon man! Even the ex-driver commentators were awe-struck. Hamlin focused on the lack of pit road execution in his post race interview but the white as a ghost look on his face was indicative that he still couldn't believe he'd been snookered like that.

Walmart is not any different than any other business. You take your chances.

Finished up my winter prep. I took the plugs out of the rockers and filled them and the cab corners with this. Then I coated a couple spots on the rocker with POR-15. Just minor surface rust no soft metal or anything thankfully but I want to keep it that way as long as possible. After I let that dry for a few days I coated it with this white Raptor bedliner. It match's extremely well and spayed very nice! *I cleaned off the overspray on the frame after this photo. I also put some of the coating in the inside of the door jambs where the paint was getting thin from shoes hitting it getting in and out. I also added some Texas Edition badges

Since you don't have plow prep from the factory, no, the harness would not have been provided. I suggest you purchase one and install it however. Assuming your plow is a 2 connector, you will also need Western/Fisher p/n 78490 to add the third connector to both the GM harness and the plow side as the newer blades the solenoid is out on the plow, not under the hood. If you have a 3 wire plow already, the solenoid would be mounted under the hood and you can to direct to that. What # headlamp harness kit do you have for the plow? 72199? How about the isolation module? Did you also get p/n 90730 fuse kit? GM info on that harness below: p/n 84731643 instructions - UI-Bulletin-161b.pdf (gmupfitter.com)

On the theme of early oil change on a new vehicle.. is there such a thing of "breaking-in" on the speed limit before taking it to higher speeds? Not talking about racing or WOT just normal driving.

I have a rubber band wrench, steel band wrench, oil filter sockets, etc. and the best tool yet has been this.... https://www.amazon.com/Wittyware-Universal-Filter-Wrench-Adjustable/dp/B0761MQ4WL/ref=asc_df_B0761MQ4WL/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312280085431&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5537740697557830090&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027723&hvtargid=pla-586654575115&psc=1 It is hands down the absolute best oil filter REMOVAL tool and works every time, regardless of the filter size. However, do not try to install an oil filter with it, it will crush the sides of the filter where the prongs make contact if your not paying attention. I know the brand says ToolWiz, but for this tool the brand doesn't matter, they all work the same and utilize low force thresholds.

The ones I have seen done have not been a true 3 1/2" they were necked down to a 3" pipe apparently because the typical bending machine doesnt go higher than 3". This defeats the purpose of flowing more. The delete also has a bit of a drone and my truck is used primarily for towing our 5th wheel on the expressway which would be where the drone is worst. Still waiting.

I don't know what bulletin they referred to but would assume one dealership doesn't have one update that another doesn't. Funny, mine have worked flawlessly for about 2 months now. Maybe just a software glitch that re-learning them solved?

Take this for what it is worth but I wouldn't let walmart touch my vehicle. I've witnessed first hand a tire fall off a car before leaving the lot from just hand tightened lugs and once witness a tech back up a suv into the tire rack sitting outside denting the hell out the rear fender. What you could do if you have a second vehicle is remove your wheels and tires at the house and take the set up to walmart and let them mount the tires on the wheels to avoid them being anywhere near your vehicle.

They have a built in deflector actually its more of a defuser. You may actually introduce buffeting.. Those had their times but the sunroofs have evolved to a point that the deflector is not needed.

It’s been amusing to watch Ross give Denny a taste of his own medicine this year. I don’t have a favorite anymore since 2001. You couldn’t scripted a better ending to that race at Martinsville. Even the winner couldn’t have been more dramatic. With the schedule for next year and driver changes. Nascar could improve it popularity.

Feels like it stops better specially with these heavy wheels (also changed the rear brakes rotors and pads) and ordered new wheel lights quad flow series wheel lights forgot about that. IMG_3413.MOV

Does it stop any better?

Did the T1 brake upgrade on my 2014 Silverado today pretty much plug and play. Easy upgrade (rust is pretty much gone off rotor already, swapped rotors,calipers, and pads used the original brake lines)

Put the cap wrench on the filter first, then insert the ratchet extension just far enough to turn it. Don't push it in all the way or the cap won't fit tight on the filter flutes.... This could be why the cap does not fit...extension is not letting cap wrench all the way onto the filter. Been there.....

Standard metal strap style wrench I've had for a decade or two. Make sure it tightens before you try to pull to loosen the filter.

The lower quality tires thing is completely false. I work for one of the biggest tire manufactures in the world and the tires we get from the mother ship go straight from the semi trailer to the warehouse and straight back out to our customers. Discount tire and Costco are our biggest buyers and they get the same tires but just at different pricing structures because of volume.

This is a point of reference argument where no one will agree on A point of reference. Wear in a mechanical device doesn't care what anyone thinks. I just does what it does guided by universal law regardless of the ignorance or education of is observers. There is a reason a chart like this doesn't have scales for either axis. The height of the graphed line and it's length are dependent on the machines particulars of build and operation but the line exist regardless independently of those conditional sets. Does it matter? Oh yea. But will the owner 'realize' the fruitage of the seeds he sows? Most likely, he will not. Why? Because along the X axis most people trade very early in the zone of "normal operation" and conclude from not playing the hand they dealt themselves that the cards they dealt didn't matter. The national percentage of powertrains making it to 100K, 200K and 300K prove this majority result. This is not unlike a child that plants a kernel of corn and because he isn't eating corn on the cob then next day concludes that all the things that a farmer does to reap a crop simply don't matter. Worse he demands that the famer is an ignorant sort and should not be listened to. You absolutely can do as you please. Has zero effect on my machines. Does not influence my decisions or my pocketbook and I'm way to old to be shamed into giving up on rational thought. The handful of owners that operate a vehicle well past 500K prove the majority wrong. Do what you've always done and you get what you've always got.

on the vehicle settings screen and also on teh phone as 'what to allow' over BT/WiFi

So, I was plagued with the electronic steering gear clunk in my 2015 Silverado with 100k miles. I just bought the truck 2 months ago, and the clunk started to drive me crazy. All of the tie rod ends and ball joints were fine. When I had someone turn the steering wheel, I could hold the tie rod and feel the clunking coming from the steering box. I was pretty much reserved that I would have to change the steering gear. I was a little curious though, where could that sound be coming from? The electric steering gear is worm/gear drive. How could it develop so much slop to chatter and clunk in the box? It didn't make sense. Those are generally zero slop gears. I did notice that the steering box to frame mounting bolts would deflect when the steering was exercised left to right. That was odd. I double checked and all bolts were torqued down. Something was fighting, kind of giving and stopping, it wasn't smooth causing the clunk. I decided to try something and I immediately knew I was onto something. I loosened the four steering gear mounting bolts to the frame (yellow arrows). As soon as I loosened all 4 bolts, the steering gear SHIFTED on the frame. See the red arrow? You can see the circle of the undercoating where the bolt WAS, and it immediately shifted once the bolts were loosened. Light bulb came on. The rubber steering mounts were fighting each other because the gear box wasn't settled on the frame where it wanted to be. I left the 4 bolts loosened and SLOWLY drove down my street veering right and left carefully. I really wanted to make sure the gear box was settled on the frame where it wanted to be. I also didn't want to raise the tires up to do this because I wanted the gear box settled while the truck was on its own weight. I pulled back in the driveway and torqued the four bolts back down. The clunk was immediately gone. Gone. Not reduced, gone. I was very optimistic, so I decided to drive it for a few days and the CLUNK IS STILL GONE. GONE. Perfect steering.

last week they replaced the motor on the driver board and it made no difference..so in the same boat...i did tell them about the bulletin and they said i have the latest software so still have the same issue