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His title his is post or should I say gripe. Nothing more. Oh and his spell check is broke

Nothing done but lifted 1.5 front 1 rear and a pulsar LT to get rid of the top speed limiter and stop start. obviously great cold air. I'm mad at myself because I had truck in normal driving mode, not tow haul or sport. I'm thinking tow haul is quicker, it holds the gear longer, shifting at about 61-6200 rpm.

I wanted to start this thread and share what I've learned about replacing the front passenger's side inner axle seal on a 2017 Silverado K1500 (this is the seal behind the axle flange the passenger's side CV axle bolts to on the front differential). The GM service manual states you have to pull the electric power steering assist motor off of the steering rack in order to perform this service which would then require you to reset the power steering belt tension using a special tool that I'm sure very few have (it uses a microphone to listen for a specific frequency the belt generates when tension is set correctly). You do NOT need to remove the electric power steering assist motor from the rack in order to get the passenger's side extension housing off of the front differential. Here's the procedure I came up with to do this job... 1. Raise the front of the vehicle and support with jack stands on the frame or by using a 2-post lift. If the vehicle is on a 4-post, drive-on lift; it will be necessary to raise the right front tire off the lift (put a jack stand on the frame, not the control arm). 2. Remove the skid plate and skid plate mounting brackets that attach to bottom of the engine cradle. 3. Remove the top nut from the passenger's side sway bar end link (in order to disconnect the sway bar from the control arm). 4. Remove the sway bar to frame brackets (2 bolts on each side) so the sway bar is free from being mounted to the frame. This is necessary to give clearance to remove the passenger's side lower control arm bolt facing the rear of the vehicle. 5. Remove the two shock mounting bolts on the front passenger's side lower control arm. 6. Remove the front passenger's side lower control arm to frame mounting nuts and bolts. There are small conical washers under the nuts for these bolts and the conical side of the washers need to face the frame (not the nut) upon re-installation, so don't lose them. 7. Swing the lower control arm down from the frame (it can stay attached to the steering knuckle via the ball joint). With the control arm disconnected from the frame, this will allow enough room to unbolt the passenger's side CV axle from the differential extension housing axle flange and swing it down out of the way. Consequently, this same procedure can be used to remove/replace the CV axle without needing to separate ball joints form the steering knuckle. 8. Unbolt the passenger's side CV axle from the differential extension housing axle flange and swing it down out of the way. 9. Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors from the electric power steering assist motor and carefully remove their loom fasteners from the body of the steering motor so you can move these harness pigtals out of the way. NOTE: there is a bare ground wire attaching one of these connector pigtails to the steering rack via a torx screw. I did not need to remove this to give myself enough room to work, but doing so will make it easier. 10. Disconnect the single harness connector to the front axle disconnect motor/solenoid and route it out of the way (I stuffed it between the engine's oil pan and cradle). 11. Use a jack to support the weight of the front differential. Remove the two nuts holding the passenger's side front differential extension housing to the frame bracket. Be very careful when removing the nut above the electrical power steering electrical plug so you do not damage this plug. 12. Remove the 5 bolts holding the passenger's side axle extension housing to the differential case. It will be necessary to lower the jack supporting the front differential (so the extension housing will tilt down) so you can get to the top 2 bolts on the extension housing. 13. Place a drip pan under the front differential to passenger's side axle extension housing flange. Use a hammer to tap the front passenger's side axle extension housing towards the passenger side of the vehicle to separate the extension housing from the main differential housing. (There is a gasket between these parts.) 14. Once separated, a spring and washer may fall out - set these aside (the spring goes on the axle engagement fork shaft and the washer goes on the end of the axle shaft upon re-installation). 15. You should now be able to rotate and remove the passenger's side axle extension housing from the truck. The axle engagement fork and collar may fall out of the axle extension housing so be ready to catch them if they do. 16. Place the extension housing on a clean bench with the CV axle mounting flange down. Remove the axle engagement fork and collar if you haven't done so yet - this will expose a snap ring holding the axle in the housing. 17. You'll need a pair of snap ring pliers and a couple of small screwdrivers (and perhaps even a curved pick) in order to get the snap ring off. It will be difficult. Once the snap ring is removed, you can remove a tanged washer from under it in the housing and then pull the housing up off of the axle shaft. 18. With the axle shaft removed from the extension housing, you can now change out the end seal. There is a small bearing down in the housing under this seal so take care not to damage it when removing the old seal. I recommend applying Loctite High Strength Bearing Mount For Relaxed Fits on the exterior of the new seal prior to installing it into the housing. The new seal I got from GM was not a tight fit, so I felt the loctite was necessary to properly secure the seal in place. I will post reassembly instructions and torque specs later when I get more time to complete this thread.

I’m not being contrary. Maybe I missed something. Dizzy never got fixed? Is the conclusion that just adding oil after the initial damage was done. Would have been enough to make it last to the present mileage? What OCI would have overridden the bad design? If non. What would have been the life of the engine? Remember it’s been stated that 1000 miles per qt is normal. Normal mileage is still 15K miles a year. So 150K miles is 10 years. Most people move on from their daily by then. So how would you break it down under those parameters? What would be the recommendation for the average driver with a budget? Most people don’t change their own oil.

Update...I just called again to check the status of the valve body part that has been on back order for my truck. My truck has been parked at the GMC dealership service department since 10/13/2022. I finally have an ETA date of 11/30/2022 for the part to arrive. Hopefully the part will arrive at the end of the month and that it will resolve the issue! I'll provide another update the first part of December.

Been off the grid nearly two weeks. Family stuff. RLHP is about 15-18% POE. Enough to, as you say, keep it clean IF you can get it clean and enough to prevent it from getting dirty if used from the get. Enough to have a MAJOR impact on friction reduction (in the sweet spot) and thermal capacity. I've charted that (heat) silly in these forums. Correct. Not the end all be all. Nothing is. (Although Restore came close) Cleaning Dizzy will NOT fix her oil eating. The ring/bore damage is done son. NOT an oil failure issue. A fuel-pump failure issue that went undiagnosed too long and addressed with too many 'other' distractions due to MY ignorance and lack of UOA guidance EARLY enough to have been fruitful. Viscosity break broke her. Fuel will break them ALL. Even RESTORE. This industry is headed down a deep dark rabbit hole that is going to leave the consumer holding a bag of poo. Consumers with their heads in the sand........... What a Tee Up. In older motors the cam/lifter wear was concern #1. Since the swing to roller cams, ring/bore wear has become #1. Only three things will wear out a ring package prematurely. Abrasion, Corrosion or insufficient film thickness. We assume that if we use the 'correct oil' from the manual that the film thickness is a given. GDI pump issues and the industries relentless attack on the oil via heat and EGR induced nitration took that assurance away. The EPA and BIG OIL greed are removing acid fighting capabilities while the attack on the oil by these same forces is increased. A public that believes all is well in Wonder Land.... What a recipe for disaster. I don't care what additive package they are using or will use. ASTM4739 and ASTM D974 will tell the same story. Yes, it may be from a different starting point and perhaps a lower/higher crossing point, likely a different slope, but these tests HOLD no matter what chemistry that toss at it. Hydrogen ions are what they are. BUT YOU HAVE TO LOOK by running a UAO/VOA once in a while. Ditto viscosity retention. The more they hammer down the organic metals, the closer you have to look until at least you identify the new SLOPE. That is how fast it depletes in whatever measure you care to use. Some things happen TO the oil and some things happen IN the oil. Don't guess, LOOK! Then trust THE DATA and occasionally verify. I for one will not be surprised at all to find out that even 3K is still to long for many of the newer SP oils.

You can get an Onstar plan for just the app and it is much cheaper than the full line of services. Off the top of my head I think I pay around $10 a month and it is well worth it in my mind. The trick is start a chat with an advisor on the Onstar page and just ask a bunch of question about the services. Say that you are on the fence about it and they will eventually get the price down.

Thanks for all the input folks. I never mentioned a tune being on the truck, because I thought there wasn't one on it... turns out the was a parameter set up to manage the fuel pedals response. Truck has been working fine since this was noticed. It's a bitter sweet thing.

My 2021 3500 has the fifth wheel package as well as the "camper" torsion bars and the Z71 package, I really dont think it rides that bad for a truck with that much capacity. Its certainly better than the 70's and 80's era 4WD straight axle half tones I grew up with.

Bought my 19 AT4 from them 4 years ago. No issues and would go back to buy again. The only haggling was on my trade and they offered me more than I expected to begin with so the process was easy and fairly quick. It took me longer than I thought it would only because my truck had just come off the trailer and hadn't been prepped yet so I had to wait a bit for that.

You the man!!!!

I’ve bought two trucks from them. A Colorado in 2017 and a Denali in 2021. Online price + the document fee is it. There is no negotiation on the the new vehicle. ( I didn’t trade anything so not surely on that). Of course any extras you want will be added on (extended warranty, floor mats, etc). Flew in both times, they picked me up at the airport, finished the paperwork work, and got on the highway for home in couple hours.

They were always responsive and straight with me when inquiring about their stock.

Pretty sure you are gonna be selling those and putting the originals back in. Gen5diy makes a PnP kit for Sierra but the plugs are wired differently for Yukon. Would be a better option to add HID or LED bulbs to the stock headlights.

Man how things have changed, not even 4 years ago these same trucks had 16k on the hoods from them! From everyone i have seen on this site over the years the pricing has seemed to always be legit from them. There have been a ton of members here who have dealt with them that can hopefully come in here and give you a bit more in person experience with them.

The Nitto Ridge Grapplers are in the same category as the Duratracs, but not as good off road. If you are looking for quiet, neither tire is anything near what you are wanting. If you are looking for off road, the Duratrac will outperform the Nitto. Either way, it doesn't appear that the RG is for you. Opinion here: Ridge Grapplers are for those who rarely go off road, but they want an aggressive looking tire that can still be driven on the street without howling toooooooo much. Its an OK street tire, its an OK off road tire, and it's an OK blend of both for people who want to be able to off road to their camp site 2-3 times a year. Lets be honest though, how many people on this site have gotten their T1 anywhere near being even bumper deep in a mud hole, much less stuck in a mud hole? If you're not going to be driving your truck any were near a situation that might devolve into that, then the Duratracs or Ridge Grapplers are overkill to begin with.

because it gets old going through all the different posts that could have been condensed by a single user into a single post, particularly when its obvious the person asking the questions either: a) didnt even do a 1 second cursory search that would have shown the question has been asked and answered multiple times over, or b) did do the search but decided that he wanted to pose the same question that has been asked prior, just for the sake of making a post. This is definitely the place to ask questions, just try to be mindful of condensing and combining topics if they have already been covered extensively.

I don’t think that’s what comes on the Denali and high country since that’s the pattern my 21 RST had. Also you’ll notice the door pictured doesn’t have buttons for seat memory or mirror folding which are high Country/Denali standard features.

Free gas cap. Was doing an oil change on another vehicle and thought the cap might fit the Silverado.. Bam! it is 99% perfect fit, the plastic will conform to the inlet,takes about half turn to tighten.

We just took delivery of a 23 Yukon SLT with duramax yesterday. Build date was 10/2022. I noticed the diesel smell and mentioned it to the salesman but he brushed it off as "probably spilled fluids from Service department PDI"...we were excited to get the new ride home. This morning I went out to the garage after poking around these forums and saw this thread. I stick my hand over the cat pipe coming out of the turbo and sure enough I can feel the exhaust leaking like a hot hair dryer blowing pretty good. Stinking up the cab and my garage, especially when sitting idle...makes sense as there's little airflow when sitting still. I called the dealer and they're looking at it today. Shop Foreman took me back and showed me with the clamp removed how the cat pipe is misaligned from the turbo by about 1/8"... they are trying to loosen the cat pipe brackets down through the engine bay to see if they can get it realigned. It's impossible to move on its own as it's secured pretty well, according to the tech. They haven't ruled out that there maybe something out of spec with the casted part. Hoping it's a quick fix...they think they'll need it until Monday for now but if parts are required it could take much longer. Attached pics of the clamp you can see the soot built up.

You get all the benefits of onstar also. 35 is peanuts for the piece of mind I get. BTW, a friend of mines mother was in a single car crash that sent her way down in a ravine. Bottom line is onstar saved her life. It's your money.

I am now over 38k miles with no issues after the repair.

Coil, wire, spark plug, compression check, leak down, injector swap

It’s just ridiculous that we are dealing with this and no one wants to take ownership of the problem..I love my GMC but I’m very disappointed also. I went and done post to GMC Corporate on Twitter and they act like they’re concerned..they wouldn’t recognize all the posts of different peoples vehicles..I think I will keep posting pics to their Twitter account..

I put 35’s on my stock trailboss..no diff in mpg. Maxxis at’s. You’ll like em, great in snow and hwy

Posted in mods thread but probably goes better here. Who’s running 35” (or 70lb+) tires on a 6.2 truck with the 10 speed and 3:23s? Does it need a re-gear? Looking at a 6” BDS & 35” Toyo MTs Can you hear swap these trucks? Never thought I’d ask that question, never thought I’d drive a space ship either. TIA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here ya go

Huh? Where's your post? Just a picture?