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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/16/2023 in all areas
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All 2.7T have the 9.5" rear axle. The 8.6" was only used on the 4.3 trucks 2019-2021. All 3 axles use 75w85 "fuel efficient" synthetic, but 75w90 won't hurt a thing. Transfer case is Dexron 6.4 points
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Not sure how to message them directly but I have a question for them that we talked about previously: How come there is no forum for the 2022 Refresh model? Or for the 2023? I believe it would be helpful to at least edit the current forum name and edit it to (2019-2023) or something similar. Thank you1 point
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@rav3 i did finally, after i posted the first time.. it started missing really bad one evening with p050d, p0300 and p0302 codes so that pointed to injector 2. It had got a p0302 code back in october as well but i changed the coil back then and thought that fixed it.. I bought 3rd party warranty when i bought the truck so turned a $620 bill into a $100 bill so that was nice.. just hoping if the other injectors are gonna fail or lifters go out it happens in the next 40k miles lol1 point
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Definitely report back; to me there is a fine line in perception between a stiffer ride and less bounce or repetitive motion. The common practice way for determining if the shocks are bad is bouncing the vehicle by hand if it goes up and down three or more times the shocks are worn. In practical terms, I hate anytime I hit a bump for the truck to bounce up from the bump then come back down hard... Not a problem in a 1/2 ton truck, but the heavier trucks struggle with this sensation when unloaded.1 point
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Sorry - I was away from this thread for a while! Like I said above, I really think it's worth the improvement. It's not "HD" quality, but it's a little better than factory during the day, and MUCH better at night. Also mikeyk101 has the information about the wires in his instructions above. If you don't want the extra set of lines you snip the white wire. I wanted to try both sets of lines so just made sure I kept that loop somewhere I could get to it if I decided to snip the wire. But after using it for a few years now I LOVE having both sets of lines. From your images above it looks like you snipped the wire. I don't have pictures, but mine has the factory red/yellow lines that turn like in your image, then it also has thicker red/yellow/green lines with notches on them that stay straight at the same time (hope that makes sense). ADDED IN EDIT: Here is a picture of the additional lines I get (they stay still while the factory lines overlaid on them move left/right and the words in the upper left are not there, that's just copyright on the camera-source website):1 point
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Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood. Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission. Start and idle the engine for 2 min. Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min. Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min. Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min. Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off. Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min. Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min. Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.1 point
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BCM=Body Control Module - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Body_control_module WAMS=White Automotive & Media Services - https://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/1 point
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Been a minute since I've done anything to my truck other than an regular maintenance. FINALLY, after 2 years of searching locally, found a OEM All Terrain grille. The cost (only $120) was justified by the condition.. lots of deep scratches down past the paint, which took me several hours to correct. Learned a lot during the process but happy with the outcome, even after dropping it and cracking the freshly refinished bezel . Luckily the crack is on the bottom and tough to see. Then had to move the light bar mount so that took awhile to fabricate.1 point
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Transmission has been fantastic thus far. Just turned 6400 miles. It is way better than my Ram 8 speed, which was always a gear or two too high and the power lagged when trying to downshift. Hopefully the upcoming gasser 10 speed works great. I really wanted this truck with a 10 speed but couldn't wait for it any longer. The 6 speed has been great so no regrets.1 point
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Newdude, I followed the info in the bulletin and was successful. Haven't had any issues since. Thanks for that info!1 point
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From what I see if I blow up your pic for the Driver side, your lower ball joint is not seated properly. I'm not sure what holds it in, but the top flange should be all the way down & seated on the control arm. Did you hit a pothole hard? Almost looks like the bottom holding nut has less thread under it than the other side. EDITED: Try tightening that bottom castle nut to see if it will pull the ball joint back down. I believe there should be a cotter pin in the castle nut to keep it from coming loose. Check to see if it's in there.1 point
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The wheel bearing centers the axle in a sense. If the bearing is basically completely shot it could change the center and the axle will drop. That's just a guess.1 point
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That is the stupidest thing I've heard. Why would you take away something that has been there for decades. Since you're constantly speeding up and slowing down, that's more important than the auto windshield wiper feature that is only necessary when it rains. How many times do you speed up and slow down in a day, everyday? Jeez, way to go GMC, for being total idiots on this one. As you can tell, I'm upset over this one.1 point
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Over the years I resist checking oil on trips or different locations. Like gas stations. If I do unless it’s over a qt low ( which is never) I call it good. The last time I forgot my own advice I drove myself crazy worrying about a half a qt low on my stick or more at random filling stations. After 3000 miles once home the next day. It was exactly at the same level when I left. If you see a leak or suspect you’re burning oil still following the over a qt low rule should apply. Otherwise you’ll drive yourself crazy. Pick a spot and use that spot when cold to get an exact measurement. Making sure your level.1 point
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I’m sure it’s from the factory manual. so it seems there is not an actual torque spec. Interesting that it requires the torque than lossening and retightening. maybe she just needs a good run out in rough terrain. Bring the ole girl out to a frozen corn field and send it. tyat should sort it all out haha.1 point
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If you want to start a thread it will be seen. If you state it’s a 2023 then I’m sure the year will be added eventually. I see plenty of refresh threads.1 point
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Silverado 2022 refresh, turning the Fog lights on during the daytime also turns on the running lights.1 point
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I've had a diode jumped from parking/running lights to the fog lights no issue, basically fogs auto on when at night and stays on when high beam is activated. This will eliminate having to jump highs to fog, I think it's a better solution for those wanting fogs on with low beams and high beams.1 point
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10,452 miles, 1,737 on oil. Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w40 out, and new oil of the same type back in. No filter change, Purolator Boss left in place. Sample sent out. Went a little short on this one as a matter of comfort and convenience. We aren’t likely to see another 55 degree day for 2+ months.1 point
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You should take TSB 19-NA-121 to the dealer and have them do the ATF exchange if you haven’t already. MC-10174268-9999.pdf1 point
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For the 1st time ever I cleaned the inside of the windshield with a microfiber cloth instead of paper towels. I can see! What the heck took me so long to figure that one out?!?! I have seen the light and now know the error of my ways.1 point
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LOL . I don't speak for all Texans but that might hold some truth..... but then again you have not driven in Texas!! Or have you???1 point
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Like the phrase goes..."everything in Texas is bigger", in this case the roads.... Don't hate on OP if you haven't driven on Texas roads.1 point
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The dash speakers are super easy in the refresh compared to the 19-21 trucks. In my 2022 refresh with Bose, the front door speakers are 2 ohm while the dash and rear doors are 4 ohm. If replacing your dash speakers, there isn't a wiring adapter available. The driver side + wire is the blue with purple stripe. The passenger side+ wire is the white with yellow stripe. I used the PAC BB-2PR 600hz at 4 ohm bass blockers on the dash speakers. To get to the dash speakers in a refresh interior, both A-pillar trims have to come off, then the speaker trim will pop up. The grills are connected to each other by the panel all across the dash. It pops up really easy. The HUD or Driver Alert trim comes off with it. There is enough wire that you don't have to unplug the Driver Alert light. See the picture for reference. Just an FYI for those interested.1 point
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GMC truck have a whistle that comes from the grill at speeds over 50 mph. There might be a bulletin on it or have your dealer call TAC. #iworkforGM1 point
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JL audio xd300/1v2 is really compact for 300 watts at 2 ohms. Recommended rms for this stealthbox1 point
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Center console was fairly easy to remove. Open armrest top top and pull up on lip to remove the entire fake wood, cup holders, usb, ac top piece. Then 6 10mm bolts. Then 2 14mm? Bolts on rear bottom near back seat storage on lower back sides.1 point
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I just replaced my factory 5” Bose subwoofer with a JL AUDIO Stealthbox 10” subwoofer. The factory Bose system sounded good but low end bass was severely lacking especially at mid (1/2) to high volume (3/4) I left the 4 door and 2 dash speakers Bose and the stock 175 watt Bose amp. Adding the 10” JL sub and 300 watt at 2 ohms JL amp, system sounds perfect now. IMHO. I like how this stealthbox fit under center console so I didn’t have to sacrifice under rear seat space.1 point
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I think it's pretty stupid or greedy of GM/GMC removing the tray. The 2022 refresh has the tray, Not sure what trim level are getting the tray on the 2023's as I've seen 2023 High Country having the tray on the center console and also the Sierra Denali having the tray. If it's based on the higher end trim then it is pure greed to force one to these models if it is a must have feature.0 points
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