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I’ve said this before on this forum, but I was looking for maximum proven reliability on the road for overland off-highway travel and for road trips around the country carrying a 2k lbs slide in camper. My pulling needs are always going to be less than about 8 k lbs and will be fairly local low altitude boat trailer pulling. The 6L90E was exactly what I wanted and so far has delivered trouble-free performance. Bonus is it works great with this engine on this truck. The 10 speed may be slightly better in performance, but I didn’t want to be part of a reliability experiment for a newer transmission installation.

In all honesty, my needs could have been met with a half ton but every manufacturer ruined their half tons and made them soft looking suvs with beds and all the gimmicky gas mileage crap choking them out. Not interested at all plus I like the more old school look of the HD. So the 6pd will always be plenty for me. this truck is like a caddy to me. I grew up with these..,.

It’s very easy to pre fill the filter on this truck. I filled mine about half way before screwing it’s back in. Can’t hurt. the manual for our kohler powered mower specifically says to pre fill the oil filter.

You cannot easily or inexpensively work on these trucks without a bi-directional scan tool. Get a Tech-2 and a subscription to the shop manual at AllDataDIY. Seems to me that you're battery is about dead or not getting charged up. Lots of short trips will drain the battery if you don't drive it very far when running.

I do lol....My thoughts are that I love my 2500 gasser. BUT, if I were ever to get a 3500, I would totally spend the money for the diesel for the extra towing capacity that I don't need. I'm just saying, I would never buy a 3500 gasser, why??? Because you won't get the most out of what the 3500 has to offer. I believe the 2500 is the sweet spot on these HD trucks, especially the gassers. Several years ago I bought a new 2016 Charger SRT with the 392. It wasn't because I didn't love the Hellcat engine. It was because the 392 was truly the sweet spot. So looking at the sweet spot with towing capabilities amongst other costs.....I do believe the 2500 gasser is the best of the best of what it can tow and what it offers.

I don't have a camera solution but I've used cinder blocks as tire stops in garages that were tight long before cams were invented.

High Dessert.....sounds delicious!

High Desert Package.

I also got it on my truck. It’s much quieter than you think. It’s probably the most quiet “performance” exhaust you can get. None of your neighbors will notice unless you drive through the neighborhood with WOT. That’s the only time it’s somewhat loud.

It may be that a pressure-filling system of some kind they use at the factory clears a bubble that aggravates the drainback characteristic once you do a drain and gravity fill. There’s not much we can do as diy maintainers other than pre-filling the filter when you replace it. Slight differences in viscosity aren’t likely to eliminate the issue. I don’t think this needs to be your primary selection criterion for the oil you use.

You must be close to me, I see that truck around every so often!

1. Engine OFF 2. Electronic parking brake also OFF 3. hold the push-to-start button to get accessories mode on. Or if you have the key ignition turn it half way before starting the engine. 4. hold brake pedal and electric parking for 12 seconds then let go at the same time. 5. quickly press the electric parking brake button once more then let go. you should be in the brake service mode after a couple tries. You’ll hear the noise and the yellow light on your dash blinking etc. Only after you do this then change your brakes in the rear. I was easily able to push in the piston and install my news pads. if you remove your brakes and caliper first then do this procedure your piston will fall out and it’ll take you hours to get it back in without damaging the the seal. Ask me how i know. POINT BEING IS get the truck into brake service mode first THEN doing the rear brakes is to easy.

Both trucks look good. But you get better gas mileage .

How much does this noise bother you? Switching to a 100% synthetic oil like Amsoil or Redline would make it quieter IMO.

Did a photo shoot for a friend's truck. Parked mine with his for a few shots. Made my truck look like a mini-cooper.

I was hoping to see what someone has done to resolve this. With the fade all the way to the back and the volume up, the sound is not only substantially lower than the fronts, but also not very full or clear. It is as though the speakers are not full range speakers and the tweeter is missing. Back seat passengers get a poor audio experience and I have to do a fair amount of adjustment to balance it and one would expect better from not only Bose, but a ~$60K pickup. Although not a deal breaker, it is annoying.

Today I was able to get the FlexTune app to work on my android phone. I disconnected the truck from the phone and also disconnected the phone from the radio. I then searched for available Bluetooth devices with the phone and the Kicker amp showed up as what looked like a part number. I connected to it and then reconnected the truck to the phone and started playing some music. I opened the FlexTune app on the phone and then clicked on the device tab on the screen. The same part number showed up and then it connected. My son and I played around with it, and it works pretty well. Now I need to change the dip switch settings on the sub amp and fine tune it. I now have the base output on the built in eq turned down and centered the mid and highs settings. This really changed the sound quality in my truck. I will install the Kicker sub controller next so I can tone down the bass when needed. I think with some more tweaking I can get it to sound almost good as the Bose system in my Cadillac CT6 You can really shift the sound stage with the FlexTune app. Now all I hear from the front speakers is the mids and highs and they are much cleaner. If you do not tune the system by using the app all the upgrade does is add bass. JMHO. Your mileage may vary due to differences in music tastes. My son and I tried some hard-hitting classic rock and some heavy metal and to say the least he was impressed. My next move will be to upgrade to speakers made to work with the factory head unit.

Driving by Braille.

You can clean the wear sensor area if its possible yes. Brake dust can accumulate. I'm talking about the pad mounting area so the pad hardware clips or in the case of the front brakes on these, the pins that hold the pads in place should be cleaned and lubricated to keep everything free and sliding. Things bind up, pads stick in the brackets or the calipers and then things wear out wrong or fast.

I love your comments about the 6L90E. Here's something I like to do that will surely get your attention. Go about 20mph, then slam your foot to the floor. It will downshift into 1st gear and it's like letting all hell loose. I can't get over how that engine and trans. combo can move a 7500lb truck so quickly. It's impressive to say the least. Have a blast!!

Any word when the build and price for the 2024 will be up? I’m excited to see the 6.6 gas engine with the 10 speed Allison and the new big touchscreen on the LT trim.

63 year old with 2020 LT and non-Bose system. Have used various lead spewing devices with limited hearing protection at times so .... I have also noticed the rear speakers in my crew cab have very little output. Maybe the truck is designed that way but I would prefer more sound coming from the back seat. The fader seems fairly useless as most of the sound comes from up front no matter how far I adjust the fader to the rear.. Granted my butt is normally planted in the drivers seat but I still would like to be able hear the rear speakers.

Because you read about a handful of failures on the new gen trucks and the comment you quoted was on a previous gen with a different system? The failure rate is in the lower single digit if not decimal of a percent, think how many of these engines are out there and how rare you read about these failures. I wouldn't go that far cancelling it, you have started so many threads on it that all those will have been in vain... So I am guessing decades of reliable service and one issue and you jump ship? That is the problem with people these days. I will just say the grass isn't always greener, so good luck with that... PS, not sure which lube tech told you they fail every 20k but that is not at all the case; that is how lies get started and spread. Tyler

The Bilsteins, like any aftermarket shock, will be stiffer than factory. Some people like that, others don't. By 20k miles, my truck would roll and pontoon so bad with the Ranchos that it was distracting and annoying. I put the Eibach kit on the truck and it handles 100 times better with absolute minimum body roll in the turns and minimal front end dive when braking. As mentioned above, its handling characteristics mimic what you would find in a sports car (please do not assume I am saying it handles as good as a sports car, it doesn't, its a truck). The ride is much more reserved, planted, and confidence inspiring. However, to do that the shocks couldn't be made as "plush" as the ranchos, so it does ride noticeably stiffer than stock but handles 1000 times better. If you really do like the stock ride characteristics, then a puck or block up front is just fine. However, if you want improved handling and drivability I would highly suggest an upgrade to Bilstein or Eibach.

First two are without level. Third one is with Bilstein 6112's in front, 1" block and 5160's in rear. Last one is with new wheels/tires.

Eibach is the way to go take it from me. I’ve put a few hundred miles on mine and this is how the truck should have come from GM. The bouncy ride is completely gone, when I used to go over speed bumps the truck would pogo up and down a minimum of 3 times before settling, now I just get one nice tight rebound. On road performance is crazy, I more nose dipping when braking into corners, no more sloppy swaying when your in the corner. It’s just nice and tight. Off-road is decent, not the best not the worst but I haven’t aired down my tires yet so it’s hard to tell but I have turned the TC off and done some high speed prerunner stuff on gravel and the back end is nice and planted when the tires break loose, very controlled drifts. Installation may deter some, there really are no specific vehicle install instructions from Eibach. I just tore out the old suspension and used spring compressors to remove the bottom and top perch plus bump stop and strut washer. Eibach provides the spring and struts only for the front. The rear shocks took around 5 mins each to swap out. I saved a few hundred by installing myself and now I know it’s done right. Seriously you will not find a better suspension set up for under $700. I put Icon stage one coils on my Tacoma and those were $1700...can’t tell any difference, I think the Eibachs are actually better on the road which is where we spend most of our time driving these trucks.