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Purchased used, first thing I had done was flush... now I want the pan dropped, filter changed and drain plug in pan installed

I installed one on our 6L80. I had a friend weld it in place. Works great. Got the plug from Summit Racing. I did order a new pan to have it welded into so that when I dropped my old pan, I had it ready to go up.

Well, if I tell you I pulled a 58 in the lottery you may figure out my age... the second year of the lottery. Between slip disc, kidney stones and afib I am afraid if I start a project like this I may not get it finished, so I leave it up to the young in's, LOL I hope to make the transmission last as long as I need the truck which is less than most of this forum.

For those of you who have installed a drain plug in your Transmission pan I have questions… Is there a certain spot to avoid? Do I need to have this welded in place? I only have a wire welder so I will have to find someone who can weld it for me. I purchased a Derale-13010 TRANS Pan Drain Plug and have a new pan so it is ready to go in at the time I drop the original pan.

Part Number: AAF-ALL50735

Also. Center bore would be worth checking. OE wheels are 78.1mm and MRR has those T228s at 87.1mm so I don't know if its actually larger? Or did they just transpose the digits?

@Jettech1 I quote @customboss to toss light on the coils not the writer. "Coil on" and "coil near" systems need a trigger and that trigger is a transistor. For some reason they decided to place that transistor in the coil (in most vehicles). Transistors are wonderful things but are heat funny as they age and unlike a hard switch. Heat is a killer and an unpredictable interrupter of current. It works, it doesn't, has a good day then it doesn't. Works on the bench and not in the car. Works with it's cold but not hot or hot but not cold. Good at light loads but not heavy. You get the picture. Customboss uses the word "Partial" but it's more "intermittent". Can be hard to hunt down without a laptop and on the road. May even require a 'rolling road' to find. It can happen to new units. Not every pig born is perfect. Fuel GC tests says 'there is a problem' but doesn't tell you exactly where that problem is. Static coil test may say all the world is roses (while you're looking at it) but the GC can't be lied to. Allot of people, experts in the field, will tell you under 2.5% for a GDI is 'normal.' They also say a quart in a thousand miles oil consumption is normal. My take on it is that under 0.5% is absolutely possible. Over 2.5% it isn't likely the ignition system. And I know for a fact that up to 8% will not trip an MIL/CEL but it will crash a set of rings if it goes on long enough.

I have installed the updated module a while back

Get it in the lowest part of the pan and not in the dimples the filter rest on. So yes, avoid the dimpled area. No need to weld it but use a thread locker.

Congratulations on the Senior getting out on this forum. LOL I too am a senior. If I tell you I'm a Vietnam vet, you may be able to figure out my senior age! Good luck with the drain plug & I hope it works out well for you. Semper Fi!

I suppose I could use my E-Z-Vac but I do have a weak hand due to nerve damage. I purchased the pan and drain plug so when I go in to a shop and have them drop the pan and change the filter I can have the pan ready to install. I am sitting at 107K miles and want the filter changed. Can't do this myself as I am a senior.

No real need at all to raise the shift pressures or anything like that. The basics would be to quicken the shift times some, they are kinda soft in my opinion from the factory. Quicker/cleaner shifts should help with clutch life. Turn off the torque converter for gears 1-4 and only allow it in 5th and 6th. Then raise the lockup mph settings so it can't lock the converter while lugging the engine at 30-35mph with 1,200rpm. I extend the 5th gear lock up to around 45mph and 6th gear at nearly 50mph. It drives way better this way. Do this would also require that you change the shift mph speed settings to match your lock up settings. Don't allow 5th gear until 44-45mph and same for 6th. Gaining fuel mileage, good luck. So much of it is down to driving habits and weather conditions. I wouldn't say you can't gain power from a tune but more so you are unlocking what is already there sooner. Lots of changes can be made to make it react quicker to throttle transitions.

Same tire/same pressures before an after. Deductive logic would indicate the shocks and their digressive damping would be the culprit. Again. 5100s are NOT the shock to choose if you want a more comfortable ride. They are more stable, and less "floaty", yes. But not more comfortable. That being said, it's a truck. It's not going to ride like an S-class regardless of shock choice.

Sure thing. I'm at 2 years on these tires, and now have 65,000 miles. I've put a little over 30,000 miles on them. I would say they have a little more than 1/2 their useful life gone at this point, but still have good meat left. They are still performing well in the snow. I honestly didn't see any mpg loss, and if I had it it was negligible. They are a very good winter rated tire, so I've been happy. I did buy the XL load range version, so they are a bit harder than the straight passenger tire, but not as harsh as an LT, but they have gotten noisy. I suppose that's to be expected with an AT tire, but I was convinced I needed a new front wheel bearing, but was told I do not, it's just tire noise. But with good maintenance on the truck, they are wearing very even. Would I buy them again? I'm not sure. It's not that I'm disappointed, but I wasn't blown away. I will likely do a bit more homework before I select the next tire, but if I had to put money on it, I'd say there's only a 50% chance I will do that same tire. Hope this helps.

Thank you Black02Silverado this is preciously what I was looking for. I was not sure how much space was in the pan once bolted in to the inner workings. This gives me the info I needed, Thank You

That was exactly my plan too. Could you share the part number from Summit ? I have read reviews on some plugs that they werent heavy enough and they warped when welded. I have a friend thats a pretty good TIG welder and I was planning on having him do it. Thanks

I love words. Worth is one I like. What is your portfolio worth? Worth is the price a person RECEIVED and not what is willing to pay. That number is the ask. Worth is past tense. Value is a more important word as it is personal to you. Market has zip to do with value. You value it at $14K but it's only worth it if you receive that price. Can you get $14K? Have an offer? Let's say you do. Put $10K into the drive line and $10K into the body/interior. Add $14K. It will run and last as new. Resetting the clock for $34K. But you spent but $20 in reality. Which new truck will you buy for equal to less? It will be closer to 2X that. Its value is meaningless unless you are buying to sell and have the buyer in pocket. I get it. I might be the only guy breathing that thinks like this, but I could never afford to pay $70 for something I could do for $35K and just burn the rest. Kids needed shoes.

Pull a wheel off and look at the brake rotors. Do you have any of these tinnerman nuts/clips on there? The little bronze colored ones in the picture below. If you see them, take them off. They can cause an imbalance with aftermarket wheels and GM accessory wheels. READ HERE - MC-10162155-9999.pdf (nhtsa.gov)

They would correct to the point it's not noticeable. Only due to less weight. I can put first hand experience with it as my truck came with 17s factory.

IMO If you are doing your first trans service at 107K, that's not how you have a trans last.

my 2019 was like that. I never mentioned it to the dealer...risk vs reward .. they always seem to tear something else up in the process of trying to fix. Plus I only keep my trucks for a few years.

it is nice when you can live down south and not in a salt belt. need to upgrade for me is when it just not worth putting money on a vehicle. my 2014 was a great truck, but i had 175k miles on it and knew it was only a matter of time and it becomes a money pit. box is rusting out , rocker are all bubbling out and then i knew the 6 speed was going to need rebuilt. and then there is the 5.3 how much longer before a lifter fails. i am 64 and even 10 years ago i would have done all these repairs myself, not in the cards anymore. so looking at putting 10 grand into a vehicle even before any engine work 1 on a truck that is only worth 14 grand didnt make sense. so i upgraded to a 2020,so hopefully i go another 8 years

That is a bolt in drain plug. No welding required if you choose to do that. I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AJR8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I get 6 quarts out of mine.

I realize OP concern has come and gone, but thought I'd add... I have an Audi Q7 diesel. Live in Southwest Michigan. First winter the temps got down to 0F. I was at work. Drove the vehicle at lunch time. No problem. Went out 5 hours later, would not start. Acted just like trying to start a car with no fuel. Car sat there for 4 days until temps warmed up to 32F. Then it started right up. I was told summer diesel can gel at 15F. The Q7 gets 500+ miles per tank. That would last me a few weeks sometimes. I fuel at a high-volume station, but maybe I got fuel before they changed to winter formula. Since then, I use Power Service Diesel Fuel Anti-gel for 3 months during the winter. It's a hassle, but not as inconvenient as leaving your car at work for 4 days.

Talk to Phil he sells harness for foot well lights. Harnessdr.com

I used to be the BITOG guy too back many years ago. We were looking at ppm. Comparing them to others. You know what I loved so much about that site? Is that it gave us...us...something to talk about and compare to other oil samples sent in to Blackstone I think it was. But it brought us all together and gave us something to talk about. And how cool is that?

I never look for any blessings. What I love to do is help others. That's always been my mission in this life. Knowledge is to be cherished and loved and shared. That knowledge you have is a blessing. You as well...one life...lets make it the best!! Here's a little tid bit about when I first become a Commercial aircraft mechanic back in 87. Those other aircraft mechanics didn't share their knowledge. Knowledge was power...So I broke that chain and learned and taught everyone that wanted to learn. Back then, it gave them powers. I didn't like that at all. Share knowledge, share opinions, develop conversation to where you can tell all of them they are assholes...lol...it's all good...

I have about 10,700 miles on mine. It has not burned any oil thus far. I think something must be wrong with mine. From what I am reading in this thread and according to GM, it is normal for the 6.6 to burn oil. Something is abnormal with mine. I should make an appointment ASAP to see why mine is not consuming oil.

I know that. I’m implying that it is not uncommon for a tech to inadvertently pump the amount of oil based off of a different spec i.e. the 6.0. I had that exact thing happen to me before and have heard it happen to others as well. edit. Just looked. A 6L takes 6qts. Easily possible only 6qts went in at the dealer. most of these techs don’t give a damn about engine size and which engine is in which truck so it’s very likely it happens a lot.

Well, I finally made up my mind. I decided to update my Mac ET6250 Scan Tool. The update will allow me to download software updates for one year from the date of activation so I should have some 2024 diagnostics on before the sub runs out. I am anxious to get the update installed so I can check for any codes in the history.

Just wanted to follow up on the JB4 Burger tuner. It was pretty decent just felt a little too unpolished. It made the truck move but the shifting couldn’t keep up and it just felt detached from the rest of the powertrain. Burger tuning has great customer service and offers a “30 Day Satisfaction Guarantee”. I should have read the fine print, you’re hit with a 20% restocking fee. I don’t recommend the tuner. I’m trying a Pulsar LT next for throttle adjustment, Start/Stop disable and I’ll get bigger tires soon so speedo calibration.

Lower cost formulations use pour point depressants to get cold crank #'s to pass SAE spec. Not a secret for formulators. That will not ensure pumping or gelation index pass. In other words I can slickify a formula to crank because of lower friction in the liquid but it may pump like the SLIME my grandkids squish and throw against the wall. Formulations using higher quality base oils will need less of pour point depressants and will pump since they remain liquid. The biggest danger for lower quality oils formulations is gelling and acting like slime. Believe it or not it happens around slow cooling at 50F and below.

Looks to be more available space in that than there is in the factory under seat storage that my truck came with. Looks good.

I also use an excel spreadsheet. One tab is to list parts with cross reference numbers. Another tab is a log of sorts that lists what work has been and what parts were purchased for it and when they were later installed. Another tab for a tire rotation log, another for an oil change log and so on. Also have an "aging" sheet that shows how old parts are like replacement hubs, transmission fluid, etc.

Geesh, we're tougher than that here in Mass. Start it and drive.

Here is our 2022 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 LT with the standard bed before putting a shell on it.

Yeah for sure.

I started modest and worked my way up. Every one had a story. The one that’s left and the last one was honestly by accident. In 2000 my wife wanted an intagra. She had a paid for impala ss in the garage. She wanted a small car. At the dealer I saw a picture of an intagra type R. It was just a little more and was cheaper than the impala was when we got it. We didn’t follow the fast and furious movies. Didn’t have a clue. She daily drove it for almost 2 years to work. One day the guard at her job noticed people driving around her car. Ran them off. We put it the garage with the impala. The impala got traded for a new Camaro costing only TTL when they came back out. For my son to go to college. My wife bought a Mazda 3. Then a Elantra GT my grandson now drives. The Acura is still in the garage, still looks new.

Your point? You have leather seats just like I do. I was dissatisfied with the color integrity of mine too. Thank GAWD i didn't spend $85K or I'd be really livid... Good thing paying that much gets you out of the plebian problem bracket. I'd watch out though - that truck was painted in the same line as the lowly WT, sure hope none of the overspray got on it.

At or above me? You sound like a complete douche bag. I don't care what level vehicle you buy - but when you spend $85k plus on a vehicle and it starts to have interior issues inside of 2000 miles that's a problem - idc who you are. re read the rules of this forum. Don't be a dick for no reason douche bag.

Why spend money you don't need to?

5w30 is for the gasoline engine.

Sounds like you need a 3/4 ton truck.

Stupid winter is here

Don't forget about the EPA and the fact that GM/Ford/Dodge etc etc no longer want you to "own" the car you own. They think that even if you buy it, it is still their property. And tree huggers at the EPA are likely fuming at the fact that people will on purpose lift vehicles, make them less aerodynamic, put larger tires on them etc etc because all of that uses more fossil fuels and kills baby animals all over the US but no where else the world.....

They do look cooler than the map lights by a bit, the ones I used are advertised as 6500K. The lens on the map lights might "yellow" them a tad by comparison. Notice the Fresnel looking features on the stock lenses? Fresnel lenses are great for keeping a lens physically small while emulating the optics of a much larger lens. But in my experience they tend to lower the effective Kelvins of the light that passes though. plus at least in the one shot looking up at the map lights the camera was aimed right in the output path of the new lights, but not in the path of the map lights. they actually compliment each other pretty well.

Yeah Kodiakdenali’s do appear to have a cooler temp than the ones I used. I know that you can get these LED bulbs pretty cheap online at about a dollar a piece but after reading customer feedback of many, I chose to pay the premium price of $10 each for the Oznium brand. Decent reviews and they appear to be of higher quality than some of the others. I really hope they are because I don’t feel like switching them out if they ever fail. I have the 11mm cool white which are advertised as 12,000K but that may be an error with advertising. They are probably in the 5000K-6000K range of true white light. The 11mm is the diameter of the actual clear lens without the flange. Don’t get the smaller 6mm ones because they are very dim and don’t put out any real usable light. They are likely best as ambient light for dash pockets, foot wells or door handles. Here’s a screenshot of the ones I ordered from Amazon.

Do you know if that's a true 1" rear block? I just had the Motofab 2/1 kit installed on my truck. But what I ended up with was a 2/2 lift. Apparently on the K2 there was a factory 1" block that was removed and replaced with a 2" in the kit for a net 1" gain. But on the 2019 there is no factory block, so you get the full 2" gain. Motofab is telling me they don't make a 1", trying to find one to bring the back end down an inch. Right now I still have a 1 1/8" rake on my truck.